모발 천연염색에 대한 탐색적 연구

송은나(Eun-Na Song),김진숙(Jin-Sook Kim) 한국뷰티산업학회 2023 뷰티산업연구 Vol.16 No.2

미적 표현을 위한 염색은 모발에 형태학적 변화를 주는 중요한 수단이다. 모발염색의 재료로 보편적으로 사용하고 있는 화학적 염모제는 안전성 우려와 함께 신체적 불안으로 인하여 천연염색에 대한 선호가 증가하고 있다. 그러나 천연염모제라고 하여 모두 안전다고는 볼 수 없다 이와 같은 문제점을 해결하기 위해서는 부작용이 발생되지 않고 건강한 모발염색이 활성화되어야 한다. 본 연구는 모발의 천연 염색제를 탐색하여 뷰티산업에서 요구하는 경영자와 고객 모두에게 천연 모발염색에 대한 다양한 정보의 기초자료 제공을 목적으로 하였다. 세부적으로는 천연 모발염색과 화학적 모발염색에 대한 탐색과 천연 모발염색에 대한 선행연구 동향, 천연 모발염색의 재료에 대해 알아보고자 하였다. 자료수집 및 분석 방법은 뷰티산업에서 중요한 부분을 차지하는 천연 염색에 대한 학술연구 발표 자료를 수집하여 선택적으로 인용하는 방법을 채택하였으며, 한국교육학술정보원(KERIS)에서 제공하는 학술연구정보서비스 홈페이지(www.riss.kr)에 게재된 국내 논문을 대상으로 하였다. 연구결과 염색의 보편화에 따라 염색약은 생필품으로 취급되고 있지만 파라페닐렌디아민(Paraphenylenediamin)의 성분으로 안전성 논란이 있으므로 염색약 성분의 안전성은 앞으로 보완해야 할 것이다. 천연 염색이 안전성과 건강한 염색 측면에서 고객의 만족도는 고객의 성향과 모발 특성에 맞는 염료를 이용하여야만 관심도가 더욱 증대될 것으로 보인다. 또한 천연염료를 이용한 식물성 염색(헤나 등) 관심도를 분석한 결과 천연염료를 이용한 식물성 염색(헤나 등)에 대해 관심이 많은 것으로 나타났다. 염색 유형은 새치를 비롯하여 개성 추구를 위한 멋 내기 등의 시술들이 점점 증가하는 반면 모발의 손상도 역시 증가할 것으로 보았다. 모발 손상은 한번 손상되면 원래의 상태로 치유되기가 힘들기 때문에 헤어미용실의 시술자나 자가 시술자는 두피와 모발 상태에 맞는 염모제 제품을 선택하는 것이 중요하다. 아울러 천연염료가 모발의 손상을 최소화 할 수 있을 것으로 확인되어 앞으로 그 응용범위가 확대될 것으로 기대된다. Dyeing for aesthetic expression is an important means of giving morphological changes to hair. Hair dyeing is used as a means of expressing one's individuality along with the desire to be beautiful, but natural hair dyes are not used much in the beauty industry because they do not have many colors compared to chemical hair dyes and have weak dye ability and dyeing durability. In order to solve such a problem, healthy hair dyeing should be activated without side effects. To this end, this study was attempted with the purpose of exploring natural dyes for hair and hoping that hair dyeing would be satisfactory to both managers and customers required by the beauty industry. Therefore, this study explores natural hair dyeing and chemical hair dyeing, research trends on natural hair dyeing, and materials for natural hair dyeing. The data collection and analysis method adopted a method of collecting and selectively citing academic research presentation data on natural dyeing, which is an important part of the beauty industry, and targeting domestic papers published on the website of the Korea Educational Information Service. As a result of the study, dyes are treated as daily necessities according to the generalization of dyeing, but there is controversy over safety due to the ingredient of paraphenylenediamin, so the safety of dye ingredients should be supplemented in the future. To this end, natural dyeing has shown high customer satisfaction in terms of safety and healthy dyeing, so interest in vegetable dyeing (henna, etc.) using natural dyes suitable for customers' tendencies and hair characteristics is expected to increase further. In addition, as a result of analyzing the degree of interest in vegetable dyeing. using natural dyes, it was found that they were very interested in vegetable dyeing. using natural dyes. While the dyeing population will gradually increase in procedures such as gray hair and styling for pursuing individuality, hair damage will also increase. Since it is difficult for hair damage to be restored to its original state once damaged, it is important for a hair beauty salon. operator or self-operator to select a hair dye product suitable for the condition of the scalp and hair. In addition, since it was confirmed that the natural dye causes less hair damage, it is expected that the range of application will be expanded in the future.

천연 염료의 염색 특성에 관한 연구(II)-매염제와 혼합 염색을 이용한 색상 다양화-

임경율,전택진,윤기종,엄성일 한국섬유공학회 2001 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.38 No.11

To obtain a full range of colors on cotton, wool and silk fabrics with natural dyes, mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Tannic acid and metal compounds containing copper, tin, iron, nickel, chrome and alum were used as mordanting agents. Palmatin, red wood and natural indigo dyes were used as the three primary colors for combination dyeing. After mordanting, the colors of fabrics dyed with natural dyes changed. In combination dyeing of palmatin/red wood and palmatin/natural indigo, the two component natural dyes showed good miscibility in dye bath and various colors were obtained according to the content of dyes used. In combination dyeing of red wood and natural indigo, the various colors were not obtained due to gelation in dyebath. This problem could be solved by dyeing with indigo, mordanting then dyeing with red wood. Violet color was obtained by alum mordanting and gromwell dyeing. The expansion of color range of natural dyes by mordanting and combination dyeing has been demonstrated.

헤어미용실 위치에 따른 염색시술과 천연염모제 사용실태 조사 -서울, 경기도 중심으로-

안경민 ( Kyung Min Ahn ),임태희 ( Tae Hee Lim ),김기영 ( Ki Young Kim ) 한국미용학회 2015 한국미용학회지 Vol.21 No.4

Recently, the enlargement and high quality of hair salons cause a severe competition, and damage of skull skin reported by using of hair dyes. In this study, hair dyeing and using behaviors of natural hair dyes according to the hair salon location was investigated. 400 Questionnaires were distributed in Seoul and Gyeonggi province and 363 effective answer sheets were used. General characteristics of research subjects, statistical data on frequency and percentage, difference between hair dyeing characteristics, hair salon location and using behaviors of natural hair dyeing were analyzed by SPSS 22.0 program. The results show that most of research subjects were women (73.6%) and hair designer (54.3%). Hair salons were located in apartment area (44.9%) and in surrounding of universities (40.2%). Most of hair dyeing customer was 20~30 age group, and the kinds of hair dyeing was beauty dyeing and gray hair cover. Most of hair color selection was own opinion (60.6%) and used oxidizing hair dyes. Beauty hair dyeing in surrounding of universities and gray hair cover in apartment area) were significantly higher than that of the other location hair salons (p<0.01). Most of natural hair dyeing customers was in 30~50``s age group and using natural hair dye was henna. Customer``s satisfaction after natural hair dyeing was relative high. And hair designer recognized that the sculp skin damage of natural hair dyes was weaker than that of chemical hair dyes, but they recognized that natural hair dyes were not make of 100% natural substances. In conclusion, hair dyeing and using behaviors of natural hair dyes may be influenced by the hair salon location.

Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing:1) Unique features and understanding

Soh, Hwang Oak The Korean Society of Costume 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing: Unique features and understanding

소황옥 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached apoint of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea’s color through natural dyeing.

지속 가능한 해초 함유 섬유의 천연염료 염색성에 관한 연구

김소진,최경미 한국패션비즈니스학회 2022 패션 비즈니스 Vol.26 No.3

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

인도네시아 발리의 천연염색 현황 연구

이정은,권영숙 한복문화학회 2023 韓服文化 Vol.26 No.1

Research on eco-friendly and sustainable natural dyeing is being actively conducted worldwide. Nevertheless, research on natural dyeing in Indonesia is insufficient due to geographical limitations. This study, thus, aims to identify the current status of natural dyeing in Bali, Indonesia. The present problems and development plans of Bali's natural dyeing method are discussed, and this study seeks ways to collaborate with the domestic natural dyeing industry as primary data. As a research method of this study, theoretical considerations and empirical investigations were conducted. The empirical investigations were carried out in Bali from February 19 to February 23, 2018, and IKAT BATIK and two small and medium-sized enterprises producing natural dyeing products were conducted in Bali. Tarum, Seraya village, which operates a weaving cooperative, and Threads of Life in the form of a social enterprise were visited to investigate the current state of natural dyeing. As a result, the natural dyes mainly used in Bali include Indigofera, Morinda, Pomegranate peel, Sappan Wood, Mongo leaves, and Ketapang. It is easy to find in daily life as a plant and can harvest in four seasons due to the nature of the tropical rainforest. However, due to the small size of the dyeing facilities, the quality of natural dyeing is not good, so it seems urgent to improve the quality and the dyeing environment. The natural dyeing industry has a high global market and sustainable growth potential. In the case of Korea, it is considered necessary to transfer advanced dyeing technology to Indonesian natural dyeing companies and cooperatives, produces low-cost local production methods, and find solutions to utilize Indonesia's various natural dyeing. 전 세계적으로 환경친화적이면서 지속 가능한 천연염색에 대한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있는 가운데 지리적 한계로 인해 인도네시아의 천연염색 현황에 대한 연구보고는 미흡한 실정이다. 이에 본 연구는 인도네시아 발리의 천연염색 현황에 대해 파악하고 이를 통해 발리의 천연염색 방법의 문제점 및 발전 방안을 제시하여 국내의 천연염색 산업과 협업할 수 있는 방안을 모색하는 기초자료로 활용하고자 한다. 본 연구의 연구방법으로는 이론적 고찰과 실증적 조사를 실시하였으며, 실증적 조사는 2018년 2월 19일부터 2월 23일까지 발리를 방문하여 현지에서 천연염색 제품을 생산하고 있는 중소기업 2개소 IKAT BATIK과 Tarum, 직조협동조합을 운영하고 있는 Seraya village, 사회적 기업 형태의 Threads of Life를 방문하여 천연염색 현황을 조사하였다. 결과, 발리에서 주로 사용하고 있는 천연염료는 인디고페라(Indigofera), 노니(Morinda), 석류껍질(Pomegranate peel), 소목(Sappan Wood) , 망고잎(Mongo leaves), 케타팡(Ketapang) 등의 천연식물로 실생활에서 구하기 쉬우며 열대우림의 특성상 4계절 수확이 가능한 장점을 가지고 있다. 그러나 염색 환경의 영세성으로 인해 천연염색의 품질이 좋지 못한 단점을 가지고 있어 품질향상 및 염색 환경의 개선이 시급한 것으로 보인다. 천연염색 산업은 글로벌 시장 잠재력과 지속적인 성장 가능성이 높은 분야로 우리나라의 경우 인도네시아 천연염색 업체 및 협동조합을 상대로 발달된 염색기술을 전수하고 현지에서 저비용으로 생산하는 방법 및 인도네시아의 다양한 천연염료를 활용하는 방안의 모색이 필요할 것으로 여겨진다.

경상도 지역 천연염색 프로그램에 관한 연구

이제남 ( Je Nam Lee ),이은진 ( Eun Jin Lee ) 한국의류산업학회 2017 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.19 No.2

This study researched the status and prospect of the natural dye program in the Gyeongsang region, with a focus on private centers with sufficient infrastructure and abundant human resources available for natural dyes. Metropolitan cities do not own the drying house and the agricultural land for natural dyes as well as have difficulty securing the land; therefore, entire sites are limited and smaller as they are closer to the city. The one-time program of all centers has been researched to help promote and maintain centers rather than generate profit. It is shown that June-August (summer) is preferred over December-February (winter). Natural dye programs for hobby and education are operated as needed because the number of participants are low. This program uses natural indigo and Persimmon Juice for the dyeing raw materials. Programs are often outsourced by other institutes with a private certification registration system the starting of a business after obtaining certification are often found in institutes operating programs directly. Future plans do not include investments in facilities (like the enlargement of experience centers) the prospect of programs and business value is bright for business strategies that include an exhibition shop for natural dye products and program development.

Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing

Oak Soh Hwang 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

we know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us Clothing. one of the necessities of life. serves a dual purpose 0f functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effect-tive bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pol-lution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body. but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing. especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process. however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and be-came the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature col-ors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment. and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the bady, Traditional natural dyeing is different from reg-ular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been on-going, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own, At the present time, natu- ral dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among con-sumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better under- standing of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colcrs should be considered first priority at this time The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea`s color through natural dyeing.

천연 염료를 이용한 모발 염색 연구

오현주 ( Oh Hyun-ju ),정연자 ( Jung Yeon-ja ) 한국동양예술학회 2017 동양예술 Vol.37 No.-

As modern people become more interested in eco-friendly products, there has been a rising demand for hair coloring using natural dye for hair and scalp health. However, it’s been hard to find a study on natural dye-based hair coloring. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the effects of hair coloring using harmless natural dyes. The purpose of this study is to establish the ground for the studies on the practical use of natural dyes in hair coloring for hair and scalp health. In terms of research methods, literature review and experiment were performed. The sample hair was bleached in two types (N5, N7) under Munsell’s gray scale depending on hair brightness and colored using natural dyes. For color measurement, color reader (CR-10 KONICA MINOLTA) and Ci 62 portable spectrophotometer were used, and the values acquired from five consecutive measurements were averaged and analyzed. In terms of natural dyes, turmeric, gallnut, madder, catechu, lac and cochineal were used. The results found the followings: First, hair coloring using natural dyes revealed different color from synthetic dyes. Depending on dyes, very beautiful and deep soft color was created. Even though there were diverse differences in color and saturation depending on dyes, no big difference was found in brightness. Therefore, differences in tone occurred depending on saturation. Second, turmeric and gallnut were dyed in yellow. In N5, turmeric revealed deep yellow (1.9Y 6.0/10.3). In N7 as well, it showed deep yellow (0.2Y 5.4/9.1). In contract, gallnut was dyed in soft yellow in both N5 (0.3Y 5.8/5.2) and N7 (2.0Y 5.7/7.5). Third, madder and catechu were dyed in orange red. Madder was dyed in deep orange in both N5 (10YR 4.1/8.5) and N7 (10YR 4.1/8.5). Catechu was also dyed in deep orange in both N5 (1.3YR 3.9/7.0) and N7 (1.5YR 4.1/7.3). Madder was dyed in vivid orange which was slightly higher than catechu in terms of brightness and saturation. Fourth, lac and cochineal were dyed in reddish dark brown with low brightness and saturation. Lac was dyed in black stone in both N5 (8.2R 1.8/1.9) and N7 (9.1R 2.0/2.7). Natural dyes were able to color hair in diverse tones and colors. It appears that there should be further studies on product development for the commercialization of natural hair dyes.