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90년대 (1990 - 1998) 한국 의류학 연구의 현황
김정호(Chung Ho Kim) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾(복식) Vol.46 No.-
The purpose of this study was to investigate trends of subject matter emphasis in clothing and textiles and to show the future directions to cooperate the fashion &textiles business and college. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in two professional journals from 1990 through 1998. The identified 1131 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: history of costume, textiles, design and aesthetics, social-psychological aspect of clothing, fashion merchandising. The results were as follows : 1. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: ① history of costume (231-20.4%) ② textiles(221-19.5%) ③ design and aesthetics(198-17.5%) ④ social-psychological aspect of clothing (183-16%) ⑤ fashion merchandising (169-15%) ⑥ clothing construction (129-11%) 2. In the area of history of costume, most of research have been published through Journal of Korean Society of Costume (197 out of 231. 85%). Especially, history of korean costume was the most dominant area (154 out of 231. 67%) 3. In the area of textiles, most of research have been published through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(209 out of 221. 95%) 4. Fashion design and aesthetics area was getting increased remarkably (ranking 3) as compared with preceding study (ranking 6) 5. Nineties` research (1990-1998. 1131) has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as compared with preceding study (1977-1989. 346)
한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 -
장영수(Youngsoo Chang) 한국복식학회 2020 服飾(복식) Vol.70 No.2
This study re-examines the theory - accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia – that the Scythian costume is the archetype for the ancient Korean costume. In order to verify this belief, the study (which is limited to men’s clothing) analyzes the commonalities and differences in the details of the two types of costume. The research method entailed literature research and artifact analysis. The conclusions are as follows: the basic structure of Scythian and ancient Korean costumes is the same, consisting of a jacket, trousers and a waistband; further commonalities are 1) the open form of the jacket, 2) closure of the jacket on the left, and 3) the hem of the jacket. The differences are 1) in the jacket: the form of the bottom hem (Doryun), the location of the hem (Seon), and the attached cap in the back; and 2) in the trousers: the width of the trousers, the ending form of the trousers, the presence of a hem on the end of the trousers, and the presence of a Dang (added piece of fabric on the hip). The many differences between the two costumes suggest that previous claims that the Scythian costume is the archetype of the ancient Korean costume should be revised.
차서연(Seo Yeon Cha),장동우(Dong Woo Chang) 한국복식학회 2012 服飾(복식) Vol.62 No.6
This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu[徐有購]`s views on constumes that are based on ``Boksikjigu[服飾之具]`` of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In ``Boksikjigu``, Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems, This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes, The results of this study were as follows, First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition, Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people`s life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in ``costumes``; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.
최현숙,김현주 한국복식학회 1997 服飾(복식) Vol.34 No.-
종교는 인류와 함께 시작되었고 인류와 함께 발전해 왔으며 서구 문명에 있어서 기독교의 출현은 다른 어떤 사건보다 유럽문명의 기초를 형성하는데 지대한 공헌을 하였다. 로마시대에 이어 중세 시대에는 사회의 기초가 기독교를 중심으로 이루어져서 정치, 경제 뿐만 아니라 복식에 있어서도 종교 지도자들의 의복이 일반 서민복에 막대한 영향을 주었다. 이러한 관점에서 기독교 종교복식을 학문적으로 고찰하고 현대의상에의 적용가능성을 모색하여 보는 것은 의미있는 일이라고 본다. 따라서 본 연구는 기독교가 전파되었던 중세를 중심으로 기독교 복식, 특히 중세 문화에 지대한 영향을 미친 로마 가틀릭의 복식에 대하여 논하고, 그 결과를 현대 복식 디자인에 응용하였다. 본 연구의 방법은 먼저 1차 자료인 실물자료와 2차 자료인 문헌자료를 통하여 가톨릭 복제의 정의와 역사를 고찰하고, 가톨릭 전례복의 색채와 문양을 응용한 현대 의상을 디자인, 제작하였다. 작품은 총 8점으로, 문양을 개발하여 현대 복식에 응용한 Computer Simulation 4점과, 위의 두 과정을 통합하고 이를 기초로 하여 가톨릭 전례복에 나타난 이미지를 모티브로 한 실물제작 4점이다. 연구의 결과를 종합하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 교회의 벽화나 전례복에 표현된 문양들을 응용함으로써 이들 문양이 갖는 조형적 특성과 미적요소들을 현대복식에 도입하여 현대사회가 요구하는 복식미를 충족시킬 수 있음을 확인하였다. 둘째, 가톨릭 전례복에 나타난 간결한 실루엣과 장식의 화려함을 적절하게 조합하여, 계속 새로움을 추구하는 현대에 역사에서 근거하여 재해석된 현대적 스타일로 의상디자인의 가능성을 확장할 수 있었다. 세째, 종교적인 모티브도 엄숙한 이미지의 영역에서 벗어나 현대복식에 응용됨으로써 세속의 영역에서도 봉사할 수 있음을 제시하였다.
중국정사조선전(中國正史朝鮮傳)의 한국고대복식(韓國古代服飾)
김진선(Jin Seon Kim),고부자(Bou Ja Koh) 한국복식학회 2014 服飾(복식) Vol.64 No.1
This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties` official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check(?), Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men`s hair style as Choo-gyul (?結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (女?髮垂後: wear women`s hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.