3D펜을 활용한 메이크업디자인 개발 -아이리스 반 헤르펜 패션쇼의 특성을 토대로-

김현경 ( Kim Hyun Kyung ),박정신 ( Park Jeong Shin ) 한국미용학회 2018 한국미용학회지 Vol.24 No.5

A 3D Pen is a pen-type device which is easily used without a separate software or computer. 3D printing technology has been used in creative fields such as art or the fields that realize imagination and expanded a design area. The researchers consider that the beauty industry could produce creative works in design with new materials and technology using 3D printing technology. This study will use the result as a novel object for makeup. The purpose of this study was to develop 3-dimensional and experimental makeup design focused on Iris van Herpen’s fashion. For the theoretical research, the characteristics and makeup characteristics of Iris van Herpen’s fashion show and the concept, characteristics, and kinds of 3Doodler were examined based on previous researches, Internet data, and specialized materials. For the empirical research, make-up design was developed based on the concept of Iris van Herpen’s fashion show(1984). The scope of the study was from S/S 2011 when a fashion collection was first presented using 3D Pen to F/W 2018, the latest collection. Of them, two pairs of clothes were selected. A concept was established and a bill of materials(BOM) was made. The makeup image for Iris van Herpen’s fashion show was presented to the face of a real model using 3Doodler. Adobe Photoshop 6.0 program was used for the illustration work of BOM. The development of makeup design for Iris van Herpen’s fashion show using 3D Pen is the meeting of digital technology and makeup. It will become an example of applying creative technology to makeup design.

3D 프린팅을 적용한 Iris van Herpen 컬렉션 시즌별 테마에 따른 표현방법 분석

XI CHEN,유영선 한국복식학회 2023 服飾 Vol.73 No.3

This study aims to investigate the change in 3D printing fashion expression characteristics over the past 10 years by examining the early 3D printing fashion works of Iris van Herpen, a leader in the application of this technology to fashion. The research method consisted of a literature review and case analysis. In this research, 166 3D printing works from Iris Van Herpen's collections (SS 2011 to SS 2021) were collected and analyzed. Iris van Herpen’s 3D printing fashion characteristics that appeared frequently were as follows: 'retro futurism', 'futuristic fantasy', 'biomimicry', and 'sustainability'. 'Retro futurism' was expressed as a mixture of handcraft and 3D printing technology based on chrome color. 'Futuristic fantasy' was expressed in 3D printing fashion with fantastic images on the theme of humans in a virtual world with digital technology. 'Biomimicry' was expressed as an innovative 3D printing fashion form inspired by nature with parametric technology. 'Sustainability' was expressed in nature-friendly fashion by applying a parametric design method to upcycled materials.

아이리스 반 헤르펜의 조형 특징을 적용한 디지털 패션디자인 개발 연구 - 스캠퍼 기법 활용을 중심으로-

형여여,이영재 한국패션비즈니스학회 2023 패션 비즈니스 Vol.27 No.4

This study analyzed the fashion design features of Iris van Herpen and createdsixdigital fashion designsusing the SCAMPER technique with 3D clothing design software, incorporating a futuristic theme. The research methodology involvedcase analysis and a literature survey. First, the study summarizedthe design style and characteristics of Iris van Herpen. Second, a design concept wasestablished, and a design mood board wascreated. Third, the resulting design features were combined with the SCAMPER technique to incorporate Iris van Herpen's design elements intonew digital fashion designs. Fourth, after discussion with the professor and expert group, six designs were selected for production. They includededgy suit coats, overcoats, asymmetrical hoodies and asymmetrical skirts, irregularly shaped tops, dresses, leggings, jackets,and fishtail skirts. This study provides a reference for the future development of digital fashion designs and showcases the integration of science and technology in fashion design.

들뢰즈의 감각론의 관점으로 본 아이리스 반 헤르펜 패션에 관한 연구

송해인 ( Haein Song ),김진영 ( Jinyoung Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2020 패션 비즈니스 Vol.24 No.4

Just as the name ‘aesthetics’ implies, the meaning of ‘aisthesis’ or ‘sense' in Greek, is perceived as an important element in modern social design. Gilles Deleuze emphasized sensory expression over the rational side of the body, and argued for sensory theory, which is the theory of how painting produces new senses. The purpose of this study was to theoretically examine the sensory theory of Deleuze, which has given new value to the senses, apply it to analyze the body expression method shown in the Iris van Herpen collection, and derive its aesthetic characteristics. In his sensory theory, Deleuze argued that the senses can be expressed by the embodiment of force and rhythm, and one can only create art through the senses. To develop one's philosophical logic through Bacon's painting, we divided it into Hysteria, Cops sans organs, Diagram, Becoming, and Paired figures. Based on these analyses, the visualization of the senses in Iris van Herpen fashion resulted in hysteria, organ-free body, diagrams, and heterogeneity combinations. Analysis of the method of expression revealed rhythmicity, atypicality, scalability, and reproducibility as expression characteristics. Applying Deleuze's sensory theory to access experimental Iris van Herpen's fashion could confirm that there was an open system's accessibility. Deleuze's sensory theory, which has given a new value to the senses, will further help to understand modern fashion design in a wide and diverse way and discover the intrinsic value within it.

3D프린팅 패션을 활용한 패션디자인의 조형 연구 -아이리스 반 헤르펜을 중심으로-

송아라,금기숙 한국기초조형학회 2016 기초조형학연구 Vol.17 No.2

The appearance of 3D printing technology has opened up a new chapter for various modern formative arts and design. 3D printing makes it possible to express elaborate things in a relatively easier way, which is difficult to do by handicraft, and that is expected to lead to a third industrial revolution. Fashion designer Iris Van Herpen attracted attention from the fashion community when she presented a collection characterized by new formative beauty in the 2011 S/S Paris Houte Couture Fashion Show in collaboration with Materialise that is a company specialized in 3D printing. The application of three-dimensional virtual simulation enabled her to produce real things according to her designs, which had been possible to do only in imagination. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of Iris Van Herpen's fashion designs using 3D printing technology and the plasticity of her 3D-printed fashion. This study is expected to be of significance in that it makes it possible to figure out the current state and future prospect of 3D-printed fashion and to suggest how to accept the new technology in fashion design as a case to be in line with the zeitgeist. As a result of analyzing Iris Van Herpen's 3D-printed fashion in terms of form, materials, detail and color, four different formative characteristics were found:organic forms originated in nature, combination of heterogenous materials, elaborate detail, and natural and achromatic colors. In her fashion, there were mostly innovative and fantastic expressions, into which heterogenous materials with different characteristics and motifs that stemmed from nature were incorporated using state-of-the-art technology. 3D-printed fashion is of significance in that it could overcome the limit of two-dimensional plane design and thereby contribute to the expansion of the sphere of design by integrating time and space. 3D 프린터 기술이 출현하면서 현대 다양한 조형예술, 디자인 분야에 새로운 국면을 맞이하게 되었다. 3D 프린터는 수공예로 작업하기 어려웠던 정교한 형태들을 비교적 용이하게 실물로 표현할 수 있다는 점에서 제3차 산업혁명의 도래를 예상시키며 여러 분야에서 주목받고 있다. 패션디자이너 아이리스 반 헤르펜은 2011 S/S Paris 오뜨쿠틔르 패션쇼에서3D 프린트 전문업체 머털리얼라이즈(Materialise)사와의 협업을 통해 새로운 조형미를 보이는 컬렉션을 발표하며 패션분야의 주목을 끌었다. 3차원의 가상 시뮬레이션 작업으로 구현된 패션디자인은 상상으로만 가능하던 디자인을 실물로재현시켰다. 따라서 연구는 3D 프린팅 기법을 활용한 아이리스 반 헤르펜의 패션디자인의 특성을 분석하고, 그의 3D 프린팅 패션의 조형성을 고찰하는 것이 목적이다. 본 연구는 3D 프린팅 패션의 현황과 향방을 파악할 수 있으며, 나아가 시대정신을 반영하는 사례로 신기술을 수용한 작업을 제안할 수 있다는 점에 의의를 두고 자 한다. 아이리스 반 헤르펜의3D 프린팅 패션을 형태와 소재, 디테일 및 컬러로 분석한 결과, 자연에서 온 유기적인 형태, 이질적인 소재의 결합, 정교한 디테일, 자연색과 무채색 등 4가지 조형적 특성으로 도출되었다. 서로 다른 특성을 가진 이질적인 소재와 자연에서 온모티브를 첨단기술로 융합하여 표현함으로써 혁신적이고 환상적인 표현이 주를 이루는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 2 차원적인 평면적 디자인의 한계에서 벗어나 시ž공간을 결합하여 디자인의 영역을 확대시킬 수 있다는 점에서 의미가 있었다.

아이리스 반 헤르펜의 오뜨꾸뛰르에 표현된 표현 대상을 활용한 3D 네일디자인 개발

정시은(Jeong Si Eun),정연자(Jung Yeon Ja) 한국전시산업융합연구원 2018 한국과학예술융합학회 Vol.34 No.-

3D 프린팅 기술은 4차 산업의 핵심 기술로 제조분야뿐 아니라 의료, 항공, 건축 더 나아가 패션까지 다양하게 영역을 넓히고 있다. 4차 산업혁명으로 인하여 디자인의 패러다임이 변화하고 있으며, 이에 맞추어 네일 디자인 분야에도 새로운 시도를 요구하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 3D 프린팅을 패션의상에 적용한 디자이너 아이리스 반 헤르펜의 오뜨꾸뛰르 표현 대상 분석을 통해 3D 펜을 활용한 네일 디자인을 제작하고자 한다. 연구의 목적은 3D 프린팅을 활용하여 미용디자인 분야에서도 새로운 학문 간의 융합, 재창조적인 디자인적 사고를 통해 시대가 요구하는 창조적인 네일 디자인 제작하기 위함이다. 따라서 문헌적 고찰과 실증적 고찰을 병행하여 도출된 반 헤르의 오뜨꾸뛰르 작품의 표현 대상인 ‘인체와 자연’, ‘감각과 감정’, ‘문명과 기술’ 세 가지의 주제의 작품들 중 각 주제별로 의상을 선택하여 모티프를 분석하였다. 도출된 모티프는 ‘해양생물’, ‘거미줄에 맺힌 이슬’, ‘호접몽’, ‘지엔지 공예’, ‘가상화폐’이며, 모티프를 적용하여 MIS 디자인 프로세스를 도출하였고, 프로세스를 토대로 3D 네일작품을 제작하였다. 네일 디자인 제작 시 반 헤르펜의 독창성과 조형성을 표현하기 위해 입체적인 형태 제작이 가능한 ‘3D Printing Pen’을 사용했다. 본 연구를 통해 3D 네일 디자인의 오브제 제작 범위가 확장되었으며, 기존의 네일 재료가 아닌 3D 펜을 활용하여 자신이 디자인한 오브제의 창조적 표현이 가능하게 되었다. 네일아트에서 오브제의 사용은 다양한 방식으로 네일 디자인을 표현하는데 큰 역할을 하며, 독창성과 창의성을 표현하기에는 다양한 기법과 신소재의 사용이 요구된다. 미용재료가 아닌 신소재 3D 펜을 사용하여 네일 디자인 제작을 시도한 것은 의의가 있고, 이는 네일 디자인 제작에서의 다학제적 접근의 시도라 사료된다. 본 연구는 3D 프린팅을 활용한 네일 디자인 제작방법에 기초적 자료를 제시함으로써, 미용디자인 분야의 새로운 변화와 융합적 사고를 가져올 것으로 기대한다. 3D printing technology, as a core technology of the 4th Industrial Revolution, has expanded its scope beyond the manufacturing area to various areas like medical area, aviation, architecture, and even fashion field. With the 4th Industrial Revolution, the design paradigm is changing, and with the changing trend, the nail design area also demands new challenges. Through the analysis of Haute Couture expressive objects of designer Iris van Herpen who applied 3D printing to fashion clothes, this study is to make nail design using 3D pen. The aim of the research is to design creative nails demanded by the age through fusing different scientific areas and recreating new designs by utilizing 3D printing in the beauty design area. Accordingly, through literature review and empirical observation, this study extracted Haute Couture expressive objects of three themes by designer Iris van Herpen ― "human body and nature", "sense and emotion", "civilization and technology" ― and selected clothes per theme, and analyzed their motifs. Extracted motifs are "marine life", "moisture on the cobweb", "butterfly dream", "GNG handicrafts", and "virtual currency". BY applying motifs, this study extracted MIS design process, and, based on the process, manufactured 3D nail products. In designing nails, this study used ‘3D Printing Pen’ which allows user to make cubic forms, to express creativity and formativeness of van Herpen. Through this study, the scope of objet production has expanded, and it has become possible to make creative expression of objet created by oneself not with existing nail materials, but with 3D pen. In nail art, objet plays a big role in expressing nail design in various ways. To express uniqueness and creativity, it is necessary to use various techniques and materials. It is meaningful to try to produce nail design using new material 3D pen, and it is multidisciplinary approach in producing nail design. It is expected that by providing basic materials for nail design production methods, this research will bring about new changes and fusion thought in beauty design part.

현대 오뜨 꾸띄르 혁신의 디자이너 이리스 반 헤르펜 연구

이세리(Se-lee Lee) 한국디자인학회 2014 디자인학연구 Vol.27 No.3