르상티망과 부정(否定)의 시학

김상현(Sang Hyun Kim) 한국노어노문학회 2016 노어노문학 Vol.28 No.2

일찍이 로트만은 18세기 말 귀족 생활의 특징적 단면을 열거하면서, 그 핵심어로 일상적이고 연극적인 행동, 말, 제스쳐, 그리고 의상을 포함한 바 있다. 의상은 가장 분명한 정체성의 표현 수단이자, 그 자체로 기호적 상징성을 함유한다. 기호일 수 있었던 것은 의상에 특정 옷을 착용하는 발신자와 이것이 타자 혹은 다른 계층과 국외자에게 전해지는 수용자적 영향관계가 형성되기 때문이다. 발신과 수신의 관계가 수평적으로 이동할 때 대체로 보편성이 획득되는데, 우리는 이를 할라트와 같은 남성복에서 발견할 수 있다. 반대로 수직성의 격상된 표상의 표본은 주로 여성복에서 나타났다. 이는 여성의 몸과 의복이 지극히 민족적인 상징성을 내포하는 경우가 많은 이유에서 드러났으며, 러시아의 사라판이 그 전형이었다. 본 연구는 타자의 의복 형태가 러시아 내국으로 유입되는 과정에서 어떠한 의복코드가 생존, 계승되었고, 반대로 어떤 의상 패턴이 존속을 멈추었는지 그 전개의 통사를 분석한다. 러시아 국내의 조건에서는 상층 귀족과 하층의 농민층의 의복을 비교하면서 두 계층의 의복문화에서 나타난 문화접점을 분석한다. 이 두 연구과제를 점검함에 있어 본 논문은 그 이론적 근거로 르상티망을 참고한다. 타자를 직접적으로 경험하여 생긴 특정 실체에 대한 원한감정과 질투, 혹은 ‘의식적인 제거’라고 하는 심리적 구조가 르상티망이라고 할 때, 러시아의 복식사에서 찾아볼 수 있는 증거는 네 번의 주요 역사적 전환기와 밀접한 관련을 맺고 있다. 몽고-타타르의 압제, 표트르 대제의 서구화 정책, 1812년 조국전쟁, 1825년 데카브리스트 반란 등의 사건이 있기 전과 후가 바로 그 구체적인 예가 된다. 이러한 역사적 과정을 통해 러시아의 남성복은 수평적으로 보편화되는 경향을, 여성복은 수직의 변동이 급하면서 민족적 자긍심과 정체성의 단계로 연결되곤 하였다. 그리고 외부에 쏠린 反정서적 반응(할라트의 경우)은 민중적 기반에는 약한 반응을 보이면서 수용으로까지 이어지는 아이러니한 상황들이 역사적으로 실재하였다. 상층 귀족층의 의복코드는 강한 저항감(질레)을 야기시킨 반면, 하층 민중의 의복 문화(사라판)는 생명력이 길고, 깊어 저항보다는 순응, 단기 지속의 유행보다는 광범위한 보편성을 담보해 가는 특징을 보여주었다. This study both historically and culture-semiotically explores important acculturations found in the history of Russian clothing from its early years of Rus’ well into the early 20<SUP>th</SUP> century. Drawing on a couple of theoretical constructs, in which clothing is analyzed as not only as ethnic symbol, but also as national identity itself, this article delves into two categorized focal points: 1) introduction of foreign / exterior cultural features and their localization in Russian soil, and 2) domestic transformation and changes of specific clothing among the upper classes and lower, peasant classes in Russia. To this end, major concerns are devoted to thorough examinations of both men and women clothing, overviewing four historical turning points in Russian history such as the Mongol-Tatar’s Yoke and its aftermath, Peter the Great’s cultural reforms with a particular attention to the policies associated with clothing, 1812 Otechestvennaia voina, and 1825 Decembrist Revolt.

한국의류학회지에 게재된 복식사와 디자인 및 미학분야에 관한 논문 분석 1990-2004

은숙 ( Sook Eun ),박재옥 ( Jae Ok Park ) 한국의류학회 2006 한국의류학회지 Vol.30 No.3

의궤 번역이 복식사 연구에 끼친 영향

박가영(Park, Ga Young) 한국고전번역원 2009 民族文化 Vol.- No.33

Uigwe are the documents of the whole processes of the various national events in the Joseon Dynasty. Thanks to the profuse illustrations in detailed color drawings and records for many occasions for the dynastic periods, they are of paramount importance for the study of the costumes in the traditional Korea. The merits of the Uigwe had been noted by researchers of the traditional costumes in Korea and the scholars have been expanding their research scales and depths. And some of the documented materials in the Uigwe have been developed and utilized as culture contents for traditional Korea. Uigwe are the rich sources for the information about the traditional costumes, as much as about their production processes and actual attires. Different items in clothing are explained for the different occasions and for the different social status, and the actual structures and shapes of the various costumes are confirmable from the detailed drawings there. Sometimes used materials are explained with their quantities, so that we can rebuild them today with historical certainty. The records also show the information about the government bureaus in charge of the costumes, and the names and salaries of the technicians involved. All the Uigwe are relevant and important for the study of traditional costumes of Korea, but particularly notable among them are Garyedogamuigwe about the royal marriage ceremonies, Jinyeonuigwe , Jinchanuigwe , Jinjaguigwe for the palace parties, Chaengnyedogamuigwe , Chaekbonguigwe for the occasions of royal inaugurations of several kinds, and Binjeonhonjeondogamuigwe and Gukjangdogamuigwe for the royal funerals. Furthermore Daesaryeuigwe is the source of military costumes shown during the great archery ceremony under the royal sponsorship. And there are more Uigwe and related materials for our references for the study of costumes, such as the portraits, and royal field-tilling ceremony, and royal silk-worm raising ceremony, and so on. Though Uigwe are so valuable historical materials, researchers cannot approach them directly due to their lack of knowledge of classical Chinese. Modern translation of the Uigwe, therefore, serves as the basic source for the study of the history of costumes in Korea. Since the translation of the Uigwe is so important, several points for the proper translation of them are reiterated here. First of all, selective translations of the representative materials for various fields are necessary, without duplicative translations by different organizations. Secondly, translations must be made correctly and easy-to-read for the readers, with harmonious use of literal and free translations as well as with standardized terminologies, hopefully correcting even the errors of the original documents. Third point is the necessity for the eventual preparation for the Dictionary for the Costumes in the Uigwe and books must be prepared for the explanations with annotations and indices for the Uigwe. Lastly but not least, the translated Uigwe must be served for the public through the internet.

갈르리 데 모드(Galerie des modes)를 통한 아마데우스 여주인공의 로브 분석

최유진 한복문화학회 2024 韓服文化 Vol.27 No.1

본 연구에서는 로코코 시대를 배경으로 하는 영화, 아마데우스 속의 로브의 디자인별 특성을 당시의 사료를 중심으로 분석하여 향후 학습 콘텐츠로 활용하는데 목표가 있다. 아마데우스 속의 여성의 로브를 선행연구와 18세기의 패션 잡지인 갈르리 데 모드(Galerie des modes et costumes français, 1778-1787) 속의 패션 일러스트를 통해 로코코 시대의 여성 로브의 특징을 명확히 했다. 아마데우스의 여주인공이 입었던 의상을 분석하기 위해 로코코의 대표적인 로브인 로브 아 라 프랑세스(Robe à la Française), 로브 아 랑글레즈(Robe à l’Anglaise), 로브 아 라 폴로네즈((Robe à la Polonaise)와 로브 아 라 시르카시엔느(Robe à la Circassienne), 로브 아 라 카라코(Robe à la Caraco), 로브 아 라 레비트(Robe à la Lévite), 로브 아 라 투르크(Robe à la Turque), 슈미즈 아 라 렌느(Chemise à la Reine)의 7가지의 로브를 디테일별로 디자인을 분석하였다. 구체적으로는 로브의 디테일을 와토 플리츠의 유무, 허리 장식, 소매 디자인, 오버 드레스의 스커트와 언더 스커트 관계라는 4가지 카테고리와 그 각각을 세분 항목으로 나누어 디자인을 분석했다. 디테일별로 디자인을 분석한 후, 최종적으로는 이를 바탕으로 아마데우스 속 여주인공의 로브를 규정했다. 콘스탄체 1의 의상은 와토 플리츠, 새쉬·장식천, 앙가장트, 오버 드레스의 스커트 부분이 넓게 열리는 점을 종합해서 로브 아 라 프랑세즈라고 규정했으며, 콘스탄체 2의 의상은 소매 디자인과 오버 드레스의 스커트 실루엣을 바탕으로 로브 아 라 폴로네즈로 분석했다. 콘스탄체 3의 의상은 짧은 재킷형의 상의와 스커트가 투피스 형태로 구성된 점을 토대로 로브 아 라 카라코라고 규정했다. 카발리에리 1의 의상은 새쉬·장식천, 짧은 소매와 긴 소매가 이중으로 구성되며, 오버 드레스가 넓게 열리고 스커트 부분이 길게 끌리는 디자인인 점에서 로브 아 라 투르크라 볼 수 있다. 여주인공이 입고 나오는 로브 중에서 로브 아 라 투르크는 지금까지의 국내의 서양복식사 교재에서는 한 번도 다루지 않았던 디자인으로 본 연구에서 최초로 밝힌 연구 성과라고 할 수 있다. 카발리에리 2의 의상은 디테일 분류에서 앙가장트 장식, 넓게 열린 오버 드레스의 스커트 부분 안으로 보이는 언더 스커트의 화려한 장식, 목 뒷부분에서 부터 뒤로 길게 끌리는 와토 플리츠가 있으므로 전형적인 로브 아 라 프랑세즈에 해당한다고 할 수 있다. 복식사 수업을 PBL, Flipped PBL과 같은 선진화된 수업 방식으로 진행하기 위해서 가장 우선시 되어야 할 것은 명확한 학습 콘텐츠의 마련일 것이다. 본 연구는 교수자의 수업을 위한 기초자료일 뿐만 아니라, 지금까지 제대로 분석되지 못했던 영화 아마데우스 로브 디자인을 명확하게 분석해 낸 연구라는 점에서 의의가 있겠다. 본 연구의 성과는 같은 과목을 가르치는 교수자들의 수업 자료로 활용되기를 바라며 앞으로 아마데우스 영화 속의 남성 의상을 명확하게 분석하는 복식사 연구가 후속 연구로 진행되기를 기대한다. This study aims to analyze the design characteristics of robes in the Rococo-era film Amadeus and use them as future learning content based on historical sources. We analyzed costumes in films of the time through fashion magazines, including Galerie des Modes, textbooks, research papers, and books. To analyze the costumes worn by the heroine of Amadeus, seven robes of Rococo's representative Robes, Robe à la Française, Robe à l'Anglaise, Robe à la Polonaise, Robe à la Circassienne, Robe à la Caraco, Robe à la Lévite, Robe à la Turque, and Chemise à la Reine, were analyzed by detail. Specifically, the design was examined by dividing Robe's particulars into four categories: Watteau pleats, waist decoration, sleeve design, and the relationship between the skirt and underskirt. After detailed analysis, the heroine's robes in Amadeus were identified. Constanze's first costume was recognized as a Robe à la Française due to the wide Watteau pleats, sash, engageantes, and robe skirt. Constanze's second costume was defined as a Robe à la Polonaise based on the sleeve design and overskirt silhouette. The short jacket-like top and separate skirt led to classifying Constanze's third costume as a Robe à la Caraco. Cavalieri's first costume was analyzed as a Robe à la Turk in that it consists of a sash/decorated cloth, double sleeves of short and long sleeves, the overdress is wide, and the skirt part is long drawn. As the Robe a la Turk is not covered in the Western clothing textbook, it is also meaningful that a new robe design is revealed in this study. Cavalieri's second costume was considered to be a typical Robe à la Française because of its Engageantes in the detail classification, the splendid decoration of the underskirt seen into the skirt part of the wide overdress, and the long draw from the back neck to the back. The priority is to provide explicit learning content for fashion history classes using advanced teaching methods like PBL(Problem Based Learning) and flipped PBL. This study is significant as it allows for primary data for instructors and analyzes the previously under-investigated robe designs in Amadeus. The results are expected to be used as teaching materials and potentially inspire a follow-up study analyzing male costumes in Amadeus.

복식사 교육을 위한 3D 가상 의상 제작 연구 - 18세기 프랑스 로브를 중심으로 -

권유미(Kwon Yu-Mi) 한복문화학회 2021 韓服文化 Vol.24 No.2

복식사 분야의 학예사 제도 현황과 교육방안

홍나영(Na Young Hong),송미경(Mi Kyung Song),최은수(Eun Soo Choi),최지희(Ji Hee Choi),이유안(Yu An Yi) 한국복식학회 2008 服飾 Vol.58 No.5

패션연구 및 패션디자인,미학,복식사 분야 관련 연구동향 -2004~2013년 <Fashion Theory> 및 <복식문화연구>를 중심으로-

한수연 ( Soo Yeon Hahn ),김영선 ( Yon Son Kim ) 복식문화학회 2014 服飾文化硏究 Vol.22 No.4

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late 20th century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

일반 수업과 IC-PBL 적용 수업의 비교를 통한 패션복식사의 교육 효과 연구

정연이 ( Yeonyi Jung ),이영재 ( Youngjae Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2021 패션 비즈니스 Vol.25 No.2

The purpose of this study was to present the case of class operation by paralleling a general instructor's lecture class and a IC-PBL class in a fashion design major course and comparing the educational effects. The teaching model of this study was designed to improve the ability to use the knowledge gained in accordance with the needs of the industrial field and to develop an independent learning ability. It will provide meaningful data. This study measured and considered the qualitative items of self-efficacy and changes in class perception through interviews and questionnaires completed by the learners after experiencing each general class and IC-PBL class. The results of this study are, first, that in the History of Fashion and Costume class, the general teaching method and the IC-PBL teaching method were applied in parallel to design a class, and a method case was presented. Second, as a result of comparing the educational effects of the two teaching methods through a student questionnaire, IC-PBL was more effective in improving learning attitude, learning achievement and self-efficacy. In addition, after the IC-PBL class on History of Fashion and Costume, the students' negative perception of team activities improved, and the students' cooperative ability and creativity improved.

90년대 (1990 - 1998) 한국 의류학 연구의 현황

김정호(Chung Ho Kim) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.46 No.-

The purpose of this study was to investigate trends of subject matter emphasis in clothing and textiles and to show the future directions to cooperate the fashion &textiles business and college. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in two professional journals from 1990 through 1998. The identified 1131 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: history of costume, textiles, design and aesthetics, social-psychological aspect of clothing, fashion merchandising. The results were as follows : 1. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: ① history of costume (231-20.4%) ② textiles(221-19.5%) ③ design and aesthetics(198-17.5%) ④ social-psychological aspect of clothing (183-16%) ⑤ fashion merchandising (169-15%) ⑥ clothing construction (129-11%) 2. In the area of history of costume, most of research have been published through Journal of Korean Society of Costume (197 out of 231. 85%). Especially, history of korean costume was the most dominant area (154 out of 231. 67%) 3. In the area of textiles, most of research have been published through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(209 out of 221. 95%) 4. Fashion design and aesthetics area was getting increased remarkably (ranking 3) as compared with preceding study (ranking 6) 5. Nineties` research (1990-1998. 1131) has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as compared with preceding study (1977-1989. 346)

의류용 세제의 환경오염 및 안전성에 대한 태도 연구 : 전주·군산을 중심으로 centering around Jeonju·Gunsan

신인수,유복선 원광대학교 생활자원개발연구소 2004 생활자원개발연구 Vol.6 No.-

This study analyzed the results of the survey on the actural condition and the attitude in using laundry detergents of housewives in Jeonbuk region centering around Jeonju·Gunsan. The purpose of this study is to give more reasonable and scientific clothing management and to help to solve the problems of the environmental pollution caused by laundry detergents. Both Jeonju(71.4%) and Gunsan(71.0%) got informations about environmental pollution through mass media like TV and Radio. As for the degree of recognition of regenerated soap, comparing with the synthetic detergent, most people though that the regenerated soap had better detergency, and less water pollution, and less harm to the human being than the synthetic detergent. When Accordingly, it showed they misconceived it. It showed that the aged consumers in Jeonju and Gunsan had good attitudes for the practice together. As rolse of consumers toward the problems of environmental polution, the respondents who thought that the consumers' roles were important took high percentage(Jeonju 86.8% and Gunsan 84.5%). In conclusion, they showed high degree of concerns in the recognition of necessity about the proper use of detergent, however low in their attitudes in real life applications.