감지의 재현을 위한 한지의 전통 쪽염색 특성

노정관,조현진,이형원,이오규 경상국립대학교 농업생명과학연구원 2022 농업생명과학연구 Vol.56 No.6

The study investigated the dyeing properties of Hanji dyed with Indian indigo powder and Niram, a traditional mud-like indigo precipitate with shell-lime, to reproduce Achoengji (or Gamji), the Korean traditional indigo-dyed paper. The dyeing yield and color difference increased with increasing of the dyeing time in the first dyeing process, which was performed by a stepwise manner of increasing dyeing time of yellow Hanji by 5 minutes from 5 to 85 minutes using Indian indigo powder. They increased rapidly up to 15 minutes, and then steadily increased until 85 minutes. The second dyeing process was repeated with the dried indigo-dyed Hanji as the same dyeing manner in the first dyeing process. The dyeing yield and color difference were similar or a bit higher to those of the first process from five to forty minutes of dyeing time. After 40 minutes of the dyeing, those even were decreased unexpectedly. From these results, it was believed that the appropriate dyeing time was between 15 and 30 minutes. A dyeing solution produced by the fermentation of Niram in a traditional method was also used to compare the color changes by the repetition number of dyeing (15 minutes dyeing – 15 minutes development). The dyeing yield and color difference increased with an increase in the dyeing number, and the hue was also changed G→BG→B→PB, respectively. The hue was 1.9G dyed indigo paper in the single time, and the PB color of dyed indigo paper was started to appear after the 8-times dyeing. The color factor similar to those of the antique indigo paper used in this study was appeared in 30-times dyed indigo paper, showing a color difference of 9.82, color yield of 8.56, and hue of 6.0PB. Nevertheless, the dyeing number could be reduced by the fact that the color factor of indigo-dyed paper depended on the indigo contents in the fermented indigo solution. 전통염색지인 아청지(감지 : 쪽물 염색지)의 재현을 위해 고문헌 감지의 색상을 조사한 후 인도 쪽 분말과 전통니람법에 의해 제조한 염색한지의염색특성을 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 인도산 쪽 분말로 제조한 염액으로 1회 염색한 경우 염색시간이 증가함에 따라 염착량과 색차 모두 증가하였으며, 특히 염색시간 15분까지는 급격히 증가하였으나 이후 85분까지는 매우 완만하였다. 그러나 2회차에는 염색시간이 5분에서 40분까지는 색차나염착량 모두 1회때 보다 약간 높거나 거의 같았으나, 40분 이후에는 오히려 감소하였다. 따라서 염색시간은 15분~30분 정도가 적정할 것으로생각된다. 전통니람을 전통발효에 의해 얻은 쪽물로 반복염색(1회: 15분 염색, 15분 발색)하면서 염색횟수에 따른 색상을 비교한 결과, 1회의염색에서의 색상은 1.9G로 그레이톤이었으나, 염색횟수가 증가함에 따라 색상도 G→BG→B→PB로 변화하며 색차와 염착량 모두 증가하여 고문서감지의 색상인 PB는 8회의 염색한지에서 나타났다. 고문서 감지의 색차, 염착량 및 색상과 비슷한 염색횟수는 30번째로 색차 9.82, 염착량 8.56, 색상 6.0PB였다. 그러나 염색횟수는 염액의 인디고 함량에 크게 좌우되며, 인디고 함량이 높으면 염색횟수는 단축 가능할 것으로 생각된다.

초임계 유체 순환시스템을 이용한 아라미드 방적사의 분산염료 염색성

용광중,박영환,유기풍,이혜정,남성우 한국섬유공학회 2003 한국섬유공학회지 Vol.40 No.5

The industry is becoming more conscientious of environmental management and are promoting sustainable production. But the dyeing industry is still recognized as one of the polluting industries which discharges wastewater. Therefore, efforts are being made to reduce wastewater using ultra low liquor ratio dyeing machines and foam dyeing. However, these techniques do not solve the basic problem of wastewater generation. The supercritical fluid dyeing(SFD) technique is a new dyeing process using supercritical carbon dioxide instead of water. To dye aramid(Nomex) spun yarn by SFD, a 3 liter SFD machine was designed and manufactured. C.I. Disperse Red 360, Red 60, Yellow 54 and Blue 56 were used in this work. Dyeing property and level dyeing of aramid fiber were improved by the incorporation of in-out/out-in circulation device, nozzle, and cover in the SFD system. Physical properties(tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage) of Nomex spun yarn treated by the SFD condition(13$0^{\circ}C$, 20 MPa, 60 min) were unaffected. Dyeing property of Nomex spun yarn with disperse dyes in the SFD increases as molecular weight of dyes decreases and as temperature and pressure of dyeing increases in the E type dyes. Colorfastness of dyed Nomex spun yarn by the SFD were acceptable except for wash fastness.

Natural Dyeing Using Tea Extract 2 - The Effect of Dyeing Condition on Dyeing Characteristics of Coffee Extract Dyed Silk Farbic -

( Hyun Geun Yoo ),( Sin Hee Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2006 패션 비즈니스 Vol.10 No.3

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until 45℃. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

IR 염색기를 이용한 천연염색에 관한 연구

윤지영(Ji Young Yoon) 산업기술교육훈련학회 2014 산업기술연구논문지 (JITR) Vol.19 No.3

Although the number of naturally dyed products is increasing, natural dyeing companies still use their cottage industrial system. However, as companies have increasingly applied for a patent and developed technology, technological advancement for color diversity and mass production is necessary. Therefore, we compared the color strength,, color difference, and color fastness to washing’ between dyed goods made through natural dyeing and ones made by infrared ray dyeing machine. The overall results were came out as below. 1. When we dyed indigo, soppan wood, and turmeric, the fabrics which were dyed by using infrared ray dyeing machine showed higher color strength compared to ones that were naturally dyed. To be specific, Horizontal-type machine was more effective than Rotary-type machine in dyeing the material with higher color strength and evener level dyeing. By looking these results, we could notice that dyeing with machines showed evener heat treatment and better stirring effect, and Horizontal-type is better than Rotary-type for level dyeing. 2. When we dyed indigo, soppan wood, and turmeric, the results of color difference,were showed as follows: IR Rotary-type machine(Domestic) = IR Rotary-type machine(Imported) < IR Horizontal-type machine. Although the results of color difference,made by Horizontal-type machine’s beating technique were not distinguished with the naked eye, we could find out that it dyed the materials with higher color strength through computer color matching system. 3. When we dyed fabric by indigo, soppan wood, and turmeric, natural dyeing and dyeing with ER machine had almost no difference with color fastness to washing’. From this result, we could imply that the method of dyeing does not give a big influence to color fastness to washing,

전통 천연염색의 소재와 매염제에 따른 색채 변화에 관한 연구

한지원(Han, JiWeon),문은배(Moon, EunBae) 한국색채학회 2017 한국색채학회 논문집 Vol.31 No.1

The purpose of this study was to examine the changes in colors through natural dyeing process and the methods which could be reproduced by modern materials and techniques. In the first place, we examined the types and methods of natural dyeing currently being used, and defined the methods and scope of the traditional dyeing with Naju Foundation of Natural Dyeing Cultural, a specialized organization, and then applied FITI-certified ISO materials for real dyeing. To derive colors based on more precise experiments and investigation, the dyeing was performed by a qualified natural dyeing research laboratory and 2 researchers as dyeing specialists. For the analytical frame of the results of this study, the color measurement was performed by using X-Rite Color i5 at D65/10 ̊based on L*a*b* coordinates. Munsell data were also collected by using iColor QC, a color program. In this study, the analyses were made based on Munsell coordinates which were more precise and understandable. Based on results of dyeing, more changes in colors were observed, depending on the type of standard campus, than changes in colors, depending on mordant dyeing material. Alum and non-mordant dyeing exhibited difference only in color fastness, and no significant change was observed in saturation and hue. However, iron mordant dyeing was found to show changes, particularly, in brightness even in same dyeing materials. Moreover, reference color was difficult to be determined for a considerable number of materials, depending on dyeing materials and canvas. The results of this study would provide useful basis for research on natural dyeing with higher precision and changing diversity, going beyond study on colors of natural dyeing which have been categorized and communicated vaguely by only the name of dyeing materials.

Combination Dyeing of Juniperus Chinensis Heartwood and Alnus Japonica Heartwood Extracts

사아나,이정순 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.1

The purpose of this study was to examine improvements in dye uptake, expression of various colors, and color fastness when washed or exposed to light. We examined these improvements by doing the combination dyeing of Juniperus chinensis heartwood and Alnus japonica heartwood extracts. In this study, two combination dyeing methods were used. One-bath dyeing involves combining Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract and Alnus japonica heartwood extract. Two-bath dyeing involves dyeing by sequence, which means that we dyed the Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyed Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially (or in the opposite order). In terms of improving dye uptake, two-bath dyeing was more effective than one-bath dyeing. For cotton, dyeing Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyeing Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially showed higher dye uptake in the two-bath method, while for silk, there wasn’t much difference in the dyeing order. Through combination dyeing, red-violet color from Juniperus chinensis heartwood and brown color from Alnus japonica heartwood made various Y, YR, R series of color as a result. Moreover, combination dyeing improved fabric’s fastness when washed or exposed to light. In the case of cotton, fabric dyed using two-bath dyeing, with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract being the first dye, showed improvement in fastness to washing and light. And in the case of silk, fastness to washing and light improved regardless of dyeing order in two-bath dyeing.

Combination Dyeing of Juniperus Chinensis Heartwood and Alnus Japonica Heartwood Extracts

Sa, A-Na,Lee, Jung Soon The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.1

The purpose of this study was to examine improvements in dye uptake, expression of various colors, and color fastness when washed or exposed to light. We examined these improvements by doing the combination dyeing of Juniperus chinensis heartwood and Alnus japonica heartwood extracts. In this study, two combination dyeing methods were used. One-bath dyeing involves combining Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract and Alnus japonica heartwood extract. Two-bath dyeing involves dyeing by sequence, which means that we dyed the Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyed Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially (or in the opposite order). In terms of improving dye uptake, two-bath dyeing was more effective than one-bath dyeing. For cotton, dyeing Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyeing Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially showed higher dye uptake in the two-bath method, while for silk, there wasn't much difference in the dyeing order. Through combination dyeing, red-violet color from Juniperus chinensis heartwood and brown color from Alnus japonica heartwood made various Y, YR, R series of color as a result. Moreover, combination dyeing improved fabric's fastness when washed or exposed to light. In the case of cotton, fabric dyed using two-bath dyeing, with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract being the first dye, showed improvement in fastness to washing and light. And in the case of silk, fastness to washing and light improved regardless of dyeing order in two-bath dyeing.

Study on the Korean Traditional Dyeing: Unique features and understanding

소황옥 한국복식학회 2013 International journal of costume and fashion Vol.13 No.1

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached apoint of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea’s color through natural dyeing.

가죽 소재를 활용한 텍스타일디자인 연구 - 베지터블가죽의 철염을 중심으로 -

강기용 한국기초조형학회 2020 기초조형학연구 Vol.21 No.1

This study aims to develop textile design by researching dyeing techniques that can be applied to leather materials and to suggest the direction of sustainable textile design material development in the textile fashion industry by searching for the possibility of fashion accessory production. The existing researches on leather dyeing are centered on color expression or texture expression of leather, and there is a lack of research on a textile design by dyeing leather patterns. In addition, it is difficult for an individual to encounter leather processing technology or to dye a pattern on the leather and apply it to textile design. Considering these aspects, we tried to research and develop the textile design expression technique based on the dyeing method of leather. In order to make it easy for anyone to dye, the convenience of dye supply, the ease of salt extraction, the easiness of the dyeing method are set as experimental conditions. Then, three dyeing techniques, coffee dyeing, alcohol dye dyeing, and iron salting, were tested on vegetable leathers. In addition, this study defined the dyeing method according to the iron reaction as iron salt and studied textile designs of various patterns using various types of steel tools that can be easily encountered around us. As a result, iron salt used in leather could express the textile design of familiar patterns easily and simply, and it could emphasize environmentally sustainable value without using dye. It was confirmed that this is a dyeing technique different from the existing leather dyeing processing technique. In order to explore the applicability of the designs produced by iron salts, 17 items including bags were produced in connection with fashion items using handicraft techniques. This study resolves the prejudice that leather dyeing is difficult and expands the expression techniques of various textile designs by iron dyeing. In addition, it will help to expand the material development of textile design using leather. 본 연구는 가죽 소재에 활용 가능한 염색기법을 연구하여 텍스타일디자인으로 개발하고, 나아가 패션 소품으로의 제작 가능성을 모색함으로써 섬유패션산업에 지속 가능한 텍스타일디자인 소재개발의 방향을 제시하고자 하였다. 기존 가죽염색 연구는 색상표현이나 가죽의 질감표현을 중심으로 하고 있으나, 가죽의 문양 염색에 의한텍스타일디자인 연구는 부족하다. 또한, 개인이 가죽 가공기술을 접하거나 가죽에 문양을 염색하여 텍스타일디자인에 적용한다는 것은 많은 어려움을 동반한다. 이러한 점을 고려하여 가죽의 염색방법을 중심으로 텍스타일디자인 표현기법을 연구 개발하고자 하였다. 이에 누구나 쉽게 염색을 할 수 있도록 염료 수급의 편의성, 염액추출의 용이성, 염색방법의 수월성을 실험의 조건으로 베지터블가죽에 천연염색의 커피염색, 화학염색의 가죽용알코올염료염색, 매염염색의 탄닌과 철의 반응에 의한 철염, 세 종류 염색기법을 실험하고 문제점을 도출하였다. 또한, 철의 반응에 의한 염색기법을 철염(Iron dyeing)이라고 칭하고, 우리 주변에서 쉽게 접할 수 있는 여러 가지 철재용구의 형태를 사용하여 다양한 문양의 텍스타일디자인을 연구 제작하였다. 그 결과 가죽에 활용한철염은 누구나 쉽고 간단하게 친숙한 문양의 텍스타일디자인 표현이 가능하였으며, 염료를 사용하지 않는 친환경적 지속 가능한 가치를 높일 수 있어, 지금까지의 가죽염색 가공기법과는 차별화된 염색기법임을 확인할 수있었다. 이러한 철염에 의해 제작된 디자인의 활용 가능성을 모색하고자 수공예 기법으로 패션 소품으로 연계하여 가방 등 17점을 제작하였다. 본 연구를 통해 가죽염색 가공이 어렵다는 선입견의 해소와 철염에 의한 텍스타일디자인의 표현기법을 확대하고, 나아가 가죽을 활용한 텍스타일디자인의 소재개발에 도움이 되고자 한다.

Ultrasonic Effects on the Kinetics and Thermodynamics of Dyeing Wool Fiber with Reactive Dye

G. M. Nazmul Islam,Guizhen Ke 한국섬유공학회 2020 Fibers and polymers Vol.21 No.5

Decreasing the temperature for dyeing wool fiber with reactive dye using a laboratory based ultrasonic machinewas investigated as a way to obtain good quality dyed samples. Ultrasonic irradiation was used to reduce dyeing time andtemperature whilst increasing dye migration and fastness. The ultrasonic machine was set at a 40 kHz frequency level, witheffective power of 130 W and heating power of 350 W to carry out the dyeing process of the wool fiber within thetemperature range 60-80 °C. The dyeing processes used both ultrasonic dyeing and without ultrasonic dyeing to obtain thelaboratory results. At every dyeing stage from 60 °C to 80 °C, the exhaustion rate of dyeing was measured. Ultrasonic dyeingyielded better results compared to without ultrasonic dyeing. The diffusion coefficient, partition ratio, and standard affinityincreased with the increased dyeing temperature and the use of an ultrasonic bath. The efficiency of ultrasonic dyeing wasmeasured and the absorption rate constant was at least 55 % greater than without ultrasonic dyeing at every dyeingtemperature i.e. 60 °C, 70 °C, and 80 °C. The color fastness to washing and rubbing was better for samples dyed withultrasonic dyeing. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used to measure the surface changes of the fiber. SEM analysisshowed no evidence of scale damage on the wool fiber surface.