초현실주의 특징이 반영된 한국 복식 디자인 연구

장민정(Chang Min-Jung) 한복문화학회 2017 韓服文化 Vol.20 No.3

Surrealism is adopted in design as a way to create unique and distinct design deviated from ordinary things, and it serves as a means to quench contemporary persons’ thirst for novelty and individuality. Derived from surrealism, there emerged costume reflecting characteristics of surrealism, and progressive design costumes applying surrealism styles have continuously come to surfaces up to today. Such costumes resulted in diversification of expression deviated from traditional costume with formality, and they lay out unprecedented experimental and progressive design based on designer’s creativeness and imagination. Surrealism is well suited to articulating individuality in that it is differentiated from traditional artistic formality and offers to broaden the possibilities of free expression and creation, this research is focused on designing and producing Korean costume reflecting characteristics of surrealism. Among Korean costumes, “Po (a generic term referring to an outer robe)” was selected given that it involves many compositions and its long length allows various designs and styles. This also reflects on concept and developments of surrealism, and also includes analysis on the characteristics of surrealism to design and produce Korean costume reflecting it. The purpose of this research is to blend traditional Korean costume with Western artistic movement surrealism to offer broadened views on Korean costume design. In succession to Korean costume, this offers experimental and various designs in line with changing trends, and proposes a new concept meeting contemporary persons’ emotional needs and carves out Korean costume market, thereby setting the direction for Korean costume design and serving as a reference for creative research on Korean costume design down the road. These are where the values of this research lie in. Hopefully, this research could also lay a foundation for another attempt towards novel design work by mixing Korean costume with Western art trend other than surrealism which would lead to Korean costume design in line with changing trends and befitting contemporary persons’ individuality, thereby further lifting up Korean costume.

Expression of Fashion Illustration on the Costume of the Movie Genre

( Kyung Ae Kang ),( Eui Jung Lee ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2005 패션 비즈니스 Vol.9 No.6

Targeting a film that is the medium of having powerful influence upon the masses, the present study examined about a role and characteristics in the movie costume, and a role of costume designers, which are shown in process of being changed the film costume. There are many designers who were in charge of the film costume, but the present study examined centering on designers who participated aiming to create the image of a character from the stage of manufacturing a movie. It presented and analyzed visual materials by dividing four genres such as a historical drama movie, a horror movie, a fantasy movie, and a modern-play movie, and by selecting a typical work. A Historical drama movie needs to be investigated costume by the historical background in a movie, but inside it was shown clothes that were elaborately reproduced and newly created. A horror movie plays a role of medium that reflects the human society and the internal mentality of a human being along with the attribute of entertainment. As a genre that requires much costume, make-up and special effect aiming at dramatic effect, a role of film costume possesses great weight. As a fantasy movie is a field based on ``fiction`` of a writer who creates a work, it is a field that requires creativity of a costume designer most. As a modern-play movie is what reproduces reality, it best reflects the phases of that time, and is the field that is influenced by costume or fashion trend. Costume needs to be designed in a bid to allow spectators to be inspired the wholly united and harmonious mood with leading a story of a movie, and the individual image.

고소설 ‘구운몽’의 등장인물 분석을 통한 한국복식 디자인 Ⅱ

소성희(So Seong-hee),장민정(Chang Min-jung) 한복문화학회 2016 韓服文化 Vol.19 No.4

The significance of this study is to design, produce, and commercialize luxurious and sophisticated costume applying Korean costume by selecting four characters out of nine in ‘Guwoonmong’, a classical novel literarily highly evaluated as a work of the Joseon Dynasty. As main characters of the novel ‘Guwoonmong’ had diverse statuses and natures, it was proper to express characters into diverse designs and compositions through the analysis on each character and image. This study researched internet data, books, and preceding researches on costume design through the analysis on characters of the novel ‘Guwoonmong’ and the trend and characters of Korea modern costume. It also analyzed/researched the trend of Korean modern costume from the enlightenment initially showing the modernization and changes of Korean costumer to modern times. Based on the theoretical background, after selecting four characters of ‘Guwoonmong’, their characteristics and images were analyzed, and then total four sets of work were designed produced. In the results of designing/producing costume applying Korean costume in diverse materials and colors, suitable for the image and characteristics of characters in the novel, Korean costume could be worn as sophisticated daily clothes suitable for the current trend, and Korean costume with design and functionality could be used as luxurious and sophisticated style for modernization and popularization. In this aspect, when Korean costume is diversely applied to design, it could be used as high value products.

‘작은 아씨들’ 공연을 위한 뮤지컬 의상 제작 프로세스

노은영(Roh, Eun Young),박은정(Park, Eun Jung) 한국디자인문화학회 2017 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.23 No.2

본 연구는 뮤지컬 공연예술 작품을 중심으로 공연에 적합한 무대의상의 기획과 디자인의 제작과정을 분석하고 제안하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이를 통하여 뮤지컬 의상디자이너의 역할과 무대의상 제작프로세스를 이해하고 실제 산업현장에서 적용하는데 필요한 기초자료를 제공하고자 한다. 연구의 범위는 뮤지컬 공연을 위한 작품 분석과 무대의상의 기획과 디자인 및 실물 제작으로 한정하였다. 연구를 위해 선정한 공연예술은 2015년 11월 19일에서 11월 22일까지 4일간 서경대학교 문예관 문예홀에서 공연된 올컷의 ‘작은 아씨들’이다. 연구방법은 이론적 연구와 실증적 연구를 병행하였다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 작품의 성격과 주요 등장인물들의 역할을 파악하기 위해 뮤지컬 공연의 원작을 분석하였다. 원작분석이 끝난 후 예술감독의 연출의도를 파악하여 뮤지컬 의상을 기획하고 디자인하였다. 둘째, 의상을 디자인할 때 극의 시대적 배경인 19세기중반, 공간적 배경인 미국 매사추세츠(Massachusetts) 주와 뉴욕(New York), 극장의 규모를 고려한 연출감독의 의견 등을 반영하여 시대적 의상이지만 실루엣(Silhouette)의 크기를 축소하는 방향으로 진행하였다. 의상디자인 시 고려한 사항은 다음과 같다. 여자 의상은 19세기 중반의 크리놀린 실루엣(Crinoline Silhouette)을 축소한 형태의 X형 실루엣을 기본으로 하였다. 의상 아이템은 원피스 드레스, 셔츠블라우스, 스커트를 사용하였다. 남자 의상은 스트레이트 실루엣(Straight Silhouette)을 기본으로 하고 의상 아이템은 셔츠, 팬츠, 베스트, 코트를 사용하였다. 전체적인 색상은 딥톤과 덜톤의 웜 컬러를 사용하였다. 소재는 각 상황에 맞는 캐릭터를 표현하기 위해 면기모, 모직물, 스웨이드, 새틴, 자카드, 벨벳 등을 사용하였다. 또한, 각 인물에 따른 특성은 소재의 종류, 컬러로 구분할 수 있도록 하였다. 셋째, 실물제작을 통한 뮤지컬 공연에서의 사용과정을 보여주었다. This study aims to analyze and put forward stage costume planning & design production process suited for performance with the work of musical performing arts as the center. Through the analysis, this study is intending to provide basic data which could serve to understand a musical costume designer’s role, and the production process of stage costume, and could be applied to the actual industrial site. As regards the research range, this study set limits to musical work analysis, stage costume planning, and actual clothing making for musical performance. The performing art this study selected for this research is Louise May Alcott’s ‘Little Women’ which was put on stage at the Munye Hall of Seokyeong Universityaffiliated Munyegwon for four days from Nov. 19 to Nov. 22, 2015. As for the research method, this study combined a theoretical research with a positive research. The research results are as follows: First, this study analyzed the original work for musical performance to grasp the character of the work and major the characters’ role. After the analysis of the original work, this study did planning & designing of the musical costume by grasping the art director’s directing intention. Second, when doing costume design, this study conducted it in the direction of reducing the Silhouette size somewhat contrary to period costume by reflecting the mid-19th century marking the time setting of the musical, the State of Massachusetts, US, and New York marking the spatial setting of the musical, and the performance director’s opinion about the size of the theater, etc. The considerations in time of costume designing are as follows: As for woman’s costume, this study based it on X-shaped Silhouette in reduced form of the mid-19th century Crinoline silhouette. In addition ,this study used one-piece dress, shirts blouse, and skirt as a costume item. As for man’s costume, this study based it on Straight silhouette, and used shirts, pants, vest and coat as a costume item. As for the overall color, this study used warm color of a deep tone and dull tone. As for costume material, this study used brushed cotton, woolen fabrics, suede, jacquard, and velvet, etc. to express the characters in line with each circumstance. In addition, this study makes it possible to distinguish the characteristic consequent on each character by sorts of material and color. Third, this study disclosed the use process in actual clothing making, and musical performance.

대한제국 황실복식의 제작기준, 견양(見樣)

이수나 한국근현대미술사학회(구 한국근대미술사학회) 2019 한국근현대미술사학 Vol.37 No.-

Before modern design appeared in earnest, ‘Gyeon-yang(見樣)’, the production method based on pictures or three-dimensional models was used for craft designs across East Asia. Gyeon-yang of imperial costume of the Korean Empire inherited the tradition of the Joseon Dynasty and worked as the production standard for systematization, standardization, and uniformity of the form, design, and symbol. Gyeon-yang became the formative design and production standard of crafts which reflected the national policy index and ruling ideas and the basis of confirming technical control of the state in the traditional society. The research scope of this thesis includes Gyeon-yang of imperial costume worn by empress, crown prince, etc. on which most Gyeon-yang relics are concentrated. Gojong utilized imperial costume by establishing the new clothing system as a means to flaunt the independence of the Korean Empire achieved through the succession of traditional royal clothing culture. The production of several pairs of jeoguibon, wonsambon, etc. for the purpose of enhancing the status of imperial family shows the dignity of imperial costume and the will to practice new system. The production standard of court dress in Gungnaebu of the Korean Empire lasted in the form of Gyeon-yang that inherited the tradition and was separated from general court dress due to the inflow of Western official uniform according to the political system of that period. Therefore, clothing system of the Korean Empire focused on the succession of tradition of Gyeon-yang, the production standard of imperial costume, and became the system which the design of Western official uniform flowed into. This thesis intensively analyzed on historical materials of the Korean Empire, such as royal protocols, annals, the Diaries of the Royal Secretariat, official gazettes, newspapers, etc. Gyeon-yang, the production standard of imperial costume reflecting national policy index and ruling idea of the Korean Empire, is a production structure where design and production are separated and therefore in line with the concept of design today. ‘Doan(圖案)’ is a neologism that originates from Japanese tradition such as ‘Gukgong(圖工)’ and ‘Anga(案家)’. The term ‘Doan’ was made by Noutomi Kaijiro(納富介次郞) as a Japanese equivalent of design so as to participate in Vienna international exhibition of 1873(明治 6). It means a picture of uijang(意匠) or goan(考案) for the production of artistic crafts, or pattern. The birth of Doan was the result of the transition of production system from craftsmen to machine and necessities to control industrial design nationally. The paradigm shift of the production system from Gyeon-yang to modern design is marked by its intensive usage in commercialization as the origin of industrial design with its purpose of nationalistic design. Modern design is the standard that distinguishes modern times from pre-modern times. A deep study on Gyeon-yang, the production standard of the whole crafts made by diverse materials-clothes, stone figures, metals, ceramics, woods, fibers, etc.- and its production system will be supplemented by future thesis. Through Gyeon-yang the production standard of intangible heritage and the essence of crafting culture, this thesis should ascertain the context and truth of traditional society, take a view of the production system of crafts connecting premodern times to modern times with the Korean Empire as the starting point, and suggest a vision.

속성열거법을 활용한 청나라 복식스타일의 패션디자인 개발

류일녕 ( Yining Liu ),서승희 ( Seunghee Suh ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2021 패션 비즈니스 Vol.25 No.3

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and design elements of the Qing dynasty costume style, and accordingly, develop a new fashion design work incorporating modern aesthetics by using the attribute listing technique. A creative idea that drew out various ideas by considering the properties and characteristics of the object in detail through applying the attribute listing technique, and a modern fashion design in the style of Qing dynasty were developed. In the design development process, first, the theme was set as 'Developing a modern fashion design using design elements of Qing dynasty costume'. Second, design elements and components focusing on design details of Qing dynasty costumes were organized. Third, design ideas that replaced or modified design elements for each type of Qing dynasty costume were presented, and the design was developed by combining and modifying these ideas. Fourth, nine designs were selected through a design evaluation process by a group of experts to select a design for the Qing dynasty costume style. Fifth, seven final designs were selected through revisions to compose a collection with unity and balance. Sixth, colour and material were decided for the selected design, and the work was completed through pattern making, sewing, and fitting process. These seven works were designed with motifs of the Qing dynasty's slit, liling, yuanling, hujian, matixiu, manxiu, shuangmanxiu, zhaixiu, pipajin, yourengquejin, yikouzhong, lingyi, yunjian, magua, mamianqun, xingshang, taoku, chaofu, xingfugua, and pao.

한국복식 디자인의 연구동향에 관한 고찰 - <복식>과 <한복문화> 학술지를 중심으로 -

한민재,이연희 복식문화학회 2020 服飾文化硏究 Vol.28 No.5

A lot of work has been done on the topic of Korean traditional costume. In spite of the amount of the work, however, not much work has appeared that summarizes the overall research trend in such a way that we gain insights into the future direction of the Korean traditional costume field. This study aims to work out an analysis of the research trend that may shed light on the current status of the field and also on the things that have to be done to further develop the Korean costume design field. The analysis reported in this work is based on the articles that appeared in two journals: Journal of the Korean Society of Costume published by the Korean Society of Costume (2,661 articles from the year 1977 to 2019) and Journal of Korean Traditional Costume published by the Society of Korean Traditional Costume (762 articles from the year 1998 to 2019). The result of the analysis shows that only a very small amount of work is devoted to actual designing of Korean traditional costume, and this has to change to globalize Korean traditional fashion and draw worldwide attention to it. So more work is needed particularly on actual designing of Korean traditional costume. This does not mean that we simply have to maintain tradition and replicate the original designs, but we have to endeavor to work out novel designs by, for instance, creative destruction and restructuring, maintaining the essence of the tradition of Korean costume.

뮤지컬의상과 영화의상의 표현방식 연구

노은영(Roh, Eun Young) 한국디자인문화학회 2018 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.24 No.2

본 연구의 목적은 희곡이나 소설에서 출발하여 뮤지컬, 연극 등의 무대공연용 예술로 재가공되고 영화 같은 영상상영용 예술로 재가공되는 작품의 의상을 비교하여 뮤지컬의상과 영화의상의 디자인 표현방식의 특징을 파악하는 것이었다. 연구대상은 국내에서 공연 및 상영된 ‘스위니 토드’의 주요 등장인물들의 뮤지컬 의상과 영화의상이다. 연구의 범위는 두 장르에 등장하는 동일 인물들 중 주요 배역들로 한정하였다. 연구방법은 고찰과 사례분석방법을 사용하였다, 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 디자인 요소 중 형태와 소재에 비해 색상에서 확연한 차이를 보였다. 형태는 아이템과 실루엣에서 유사하게 표현되었고, 소재는 영화의상이 뮤지컬의상보다 고급 소재를 많이 사용하였으며, 색상은 뮤지컬의상이 영화의상보다 다양하게 사용되었다. 둘째, 두 장르 모두 역사적 고증에 기초한 시대의상으로 디자인되었다. 뮤지컬의상은 완벽한 재현이 아닌 당대를 극적으로 표현할 수 있는 방법이 사용되었다. 영화의상은 대체로 정확하게 고증되어 디자인되었으며 경우에 따라 현대적 해석도 가미되었다. 셋째, 뮤지컬의상은 인물의 캐릭터를 표현하기 위해 주로 색상의 차이와 변화를 이용하였고, 영화의상은 아이템, 실루엣, 소재의 사실적인 표현 방법을 이용하였다. 넷째, 뮤지컬에서는 연출가의 개성보다 무대상영이라는 공연의 특성이 부각되었고, 영화에서는 감독의 개성이 영화 전체에 영향을 주었으며, 이는 의상의 표현에도 드러났다. 다섯째, 뮤지컬은 공연의 원활한 진행과 배우의 움직임 및 안전을 위해 최소한의 의상을 사용하여 퀵체인지의 수를 줄인다. 이를 위해 시대 고증보다는 공연에 적합한 의상디자인을 추구한 것으로 보인다. 영화는 카메라의 근접 촬영을 통해 사실적인 촬영이 가능하므로 의상디자인 제약이 적고 장면에 어울리는 의상을 사용할 수 있다. 이를 위해 시대 고증을 통해 재현된 다양한 의상디자인이 가능한 것으로 보인다. 종합하면, 뮤지컬의상과 영화의상은 시대적 배경과 공간적 배경을 표현하고 등장인물들 각각의 캐릭터를 표현하는데 필요한 중요한 시각적 요소이자 이야기를 이끌어가는 비언어적 도구이다. 장르별로 의상을 표현하는 방법에 차이가 있으며, 표현양식에 따라 중요하게 고려해야 하는 표현 특징에 차이가 있다. 장르별 의상디자인 기획 및 제작 과정에 대한 부분을 다루는 후속 연구가 이루어진다면, 관련 분야의 의상디자이너 전공자 및 실무자의 교육에 기여할 것으로 보인다. The purpose of this study is to grasp the characteristic of a design expression mode of musical costume and movie costume by comparing the costume of works which are reprocessed as the art for a stage performance like musicals and theatricals, etc., and the art for an imagery performance like a movie starting from a drama, or a novel. The study subjects include the musical costume and movie costume of the main characters of ‘Sweeney Todd’ which has been performed and screened in Korea. The range of this study was limited to main cast members among the same characters appeared in both genres. Consideration and case analysis were used as the methods for this study. The study results are as follows: First, it was found that there was a definite difference in color in comparison with forms and materials among design elements. Also, this study result showed that a form was expressed similarly in items and silhouettes while fine quality materials were more used in movie costume than in musical costume; in addition, color was used more diversely in musical costume than in movie costume. Second, both of the two genres were designed as period costume based on historical research. Musical costume was created by the method which makes it possible to express the time dramatically other than a flawless reproduction. Movie costume was designed through accurate historical research on the whole, and in some cases, modern interpretation was also added to movie costume. Third, musical costume used mainly the difference and variations of color to express personalities of characters while movie costume used a graphical expression technique of items, silhouette and materials. Fourth, in musicals, performance characteristics of stage showing were highlighted rather than a director’s personality, and in movies, a director’s personality had an influence on the whole of a movie, which was exposed even in the expression of costume. Fifth, musicals were found to reduce the number of quick changes using the minimum costume for the sake of smooth progress of a performance, actors and actresses’ movements and safety. It seems that a musical might pursue costume design suited for a performance rather than background research to meet its purpose. In contrast, it’s possible for a movie to do realistic filming through the close-up of a camera, so there are fewer restrictions on costume design, and the costume fit for a scene is available. Accordingly, it seems that diverse costume designs, which are reproduced through background research, are feasible for its purpose. Putting the above things together, musical costume and movie costume are important visual elements for expressing time setting, and spatial background as well as respective personalities of characters, and also non-verbal tools leading a narrative. There is the difference in the method of costume expression by genre, and also in expression characteristics which should be considered carefully according to an expression mode.

창작 뮤지컬 의상 디자인 연구

노은영(Roh, Eun Young) 한국디자인문화학회 2017 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.23 No.4

본 연구의 목적은 창작 뮤지컬 작품의 무대의상을 기획하고 디자인하여 실물로 제작하는 과정을 살펴봄으로써, 창작 뮤지컬의 무대의상 제작프로세스를 제안하는 것이다. 연구의 범위는 창작 뮤지컬의 작품 분석과 무대의상의 기획 · 디자인 · 제작으로 한정하였다. 연구를 위해 선택한 뮤지컬은 2016년 11월 16일에서 20일까지 5일간 서경대학교 문예홀에서 공연된 ‘청 이야기’이다. 연구방법은 이론적 연구와 실증적 연구를 병행하였다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 원작 분석결과와 연출가의 연출의도를 토대로 뮤지컬 의상을 기획하고 디자인하였다. 또한, 디자인에는 무대의상의 요소와 원리를 기초로 현대적 이미지가 반영되고 캐릭터의 이미지가 표현되도록 하였다. 여자 배역들은 X형 실루엣의 원피스 드레스, 남자 배역들은 H형 실루엣의 포 형식의 코트를 기본으로 디자인하였다. 동양적인 이미지는 서플리스 네크라인과 전개형(前開型) 디자인을 활용하였다. 각 인물들의 특징은 컬러, 소재, 디자인 원리를 활용하였으며, 특히 계급은 소재와 대칭 · 비대칭균형을 활용하여 표현하였다. 둘째, 작품의 분석에서 공연의상 디자인 및 제작을 거쳐 창작 뮤지컬 공연에서의 실제 사용과정을 보여주었다. The purpose of this study is to propose the production process of a stage costume for a creative musical by looking into the process of production of a real-size costume through planning & designing of the stage costume for a creative musical work. The study limited its research scope to work analysis of a creative musical, and planning, design, and production of a stage costume. To this end, this study selected ‘Cheong Story’ which was performed at MOONYE HALL of Seokyeong University for five days from Nov. 16 to 20, 2016. As for the research method, this study combined theoretical research with empirical research. The research results are as follows: First, this study planned and designed the musical costume on the basis of the analysis result of the original work and the director’s directing intention. In addition, this study made a design which could reflect a modern image and express characters’ image based on the elements and principle of a stage costume. Also, this study made a design of one-piece dress in X-type silhouette for female parts, and a coat of bracket set system of H-type silhouette for male parts as a base respectively. To create an Oriental image, this study utilized surplice neckline and extensive-form design. In addition, this study utilized color, materials and design principles to express the characteristic of each character, and particularly, expressed a rank by utilizing materials and the balance between symmetry and asymmetry. Second, in the analysis of a work, this study showed an actual use process of a costume in a creative musical through design and production of a performance costume.

뮤지컬 의상 제작의 실제와 의상 디자이너의 역할 -국내 중소형 창작 뮤지컬 사례분석을 중심으로-

박내리 ( Nae Ri Park ),이금희 ( Keum Hee Lee ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.1

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies` original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies` small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director`s intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.