Pants lining manufacturing survey of menswear brands in South Korea

김명옥,Injoo Kim 한국의류학회 2015 Fashion and Textiles Vol.2 No.1

This study aims to survey the pants lining manufacturing of menswear brands and to provide practical data for developing the pants lining pattern. The researchers collected data by interviewing patternmakers of thirteen menswear brands in Korea. The results of this study are as follows: first, 69.2% of menswear brands provide the pants lining pattern to the garment factory. Important factors in the patternmaking methods for the lining were the pant styles and the outer shell fabric’s degree of stretch. Second, for manufacturing comparisons according to the pant style, the seam allowance from the back crotch line to the waistline showed that suit pants had varied seam allowance throughout the pant, while casual pants had the same seam allowance throughout the pant. Also, results showed that menswear pants lining were manufactured only in the front for the suit pants lining. Third, ease in the pants lining pattern the waist, hip, and thigh were the same 0.75 cm. Due to the specific shifting amount in ease, the lining pattern increases in size. The length of the back could be adjusted whether the length is below the crotch level or below the knee level. Therefore, this study suggests that when the pants lining is manufactured, the manufacturer should consider these results to develop the proper pants lining pattern, a task equally important as the outer shell pattern.

전문가용 클라이밍 팬츠의 활동 기능성 수요특성 연구

정세미 ( Semi Jung ),천종숙 ( Jongsuk Chun ) 복식문화학회 2013 服飾文化硏究 Vol.21 No.2

This study aimed to identify professional climbers` demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layer, second layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded ``knees``, ``inner thighs`` and ``hips`` while their female counterparts most commonly responded ``inner thighs``, ``exposed back and waist`` and ``hips`` in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.

패턴분석(分析) 및 착의평가(着衣評價)에 따른 엔지니어드 진 팬츠의 기능성(機能性) 연구(硏究)

심부자 ( Boo Ja Shim ),서추연 ( Chu Yeon Suh ),유현 ( Hyun Yoo ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2005 패션 비즈니스 Vol.9 No.4

On the subjects of the female adults in their 20s who love to wear jeans, the wearing reality of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants was examined while pattern comparison and the evaluation of appearance and functions were made to reach the following conclusions: 1. Wearing reality of engineered jean pants Among the examined subjects, 74.8% were found out to favor engineered jean pants. Those who have engineered jean pants turned out to pursue well-known brands more than practicality. 2. Pattern comparison analysis of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants Though similar sizes existed in pants tips and belt width, engineered jean pants showed bigger values in waist circumference, crotch circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on. There were no big differences in the front part except for the items like crotch circumference and crotch length, but engineered jean pants had bigger sizes in the rear part. Engineered jeans in the rear contained the outward curved silhouette of the legs, curved tips, and a dart design instead of a back yoke. 3. Evaluation of appearance and functions In the scores of appearance, basic jean pants were higher at 3.65 in the order of front > side > back. On the contrary, engineered jean pants were excellent in the order of side > back > front. In the items of functions, engineered jean pants were higher at 4.23 in the order of hips > thighs> waist > abdomen > knee > crotch. On the other hand, basic jean pants showed the order of knee > crotch & thighs > abdomen > hips > waist. In every movement, engineered jean pants revealed higher functionality. In particular, the bigger physical movement led to the greater functional differences between the two kinds of jean pants.

조선시대 분묘 출토 세가닥 바지 유형에 관한 연구

황진영 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관 2019 한국 복식 Vol.- No.41

The names of the pants used from the Ancient Times were variously used, and the pants of the Joseon Dynasty were worn by both men and women, but their roles were different. The man wore pants with the jacket(Jeogori) in the sense of a coat, and the woman wore pants for underwear in the jacket(Jeogori) and skirt(Chima). The pants of the Joseon Dynasty are conveyed in various forms through excavated costumes. Among them, the Three legged pants made the shorts form differently from the general pants and overlapped on one leg. Three legged pants are valuable data to confirm the characteristic type of the pants in the early Joseon Dynasty, although the excavated quantity is small. This study is to examine the types and compositional characteristics of Three legged pants in the Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. First, all Three legged pants were excavated only in the early 16th and 17th centuries and were thought to be popular at the time. Second, there are three pants with short pants on the outside and there are six pants with short pants inside. Third, it is composed of double and can be seen as practical pants for convenient use without taking off pants with cold weather. Fourth, in the first half of Chosun Dynasty, both men and women wore the same type of pants, and Three legged pants seem to be used as men’s pants. 상고시대부터 사용된 바지의 명칭은 다양하게 불리며 사용하였고, 조선시대 바지는 남녀 모두 착용하지만 각각의 역할이 달랐다. 남자는 겉옷의 개념으로 저고리와 함께 바지를 입었으며, 여자는 저고리와 치마 안에 속옷의 용도로 바지를 입었다. 조선시대의 바지는 출토 복식을 통해 다양한 형태로 전해지고 있으며, 그 중 세가닥 바지는 그 형태가 일반 바지와 다르게 짧은 반바지 형태를 추가로 만들어 한쪽 다리에 겹쳐 주었다. 세가닥 바지는 출토된 수량은 적지만 조선전기 바지의 특징적인 유형을 확인할 수 있는 귀중한 자료이다. 본 연구는 조선시대 세가닥 바지의 유형과 구성적 특징을 구체적으로 살펴보고자 한다. 연구결과를 살펴보면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 세가닥 바지는 모두 16~17세기 초에 만 출토되고 당시에 유행되었던 형태일 것으로 생각 된다. 둘째, 짧은 바지 가닥이 겉으로 배치가 되는 세가닥 바지 3점과 짧은 가닥이 속으로 들어가는 세가닥 바지 6점으로 구분할 수 있다. 셋째, 이중으로 구성되어 추운날씨에 방한효과와 함께 바지를 벗지 않으면서 용변이 편리하도록 제작된 실용적인 기능의 바지로 볼 수 있다. 넷째, 조선전기에는 남녀모두 속곳형태의 바지를 착용하였으며, 세가닥 바지는 남자의 바지로 사용하였을 가능성이 큰 것으로 보인다. 그 근거로 짧은 가닥의 부리너비가 좁은 점, 사폭바지가 등장하는 시점부터 점차 사라진 점 등으로 미뤄보아 남자용 바지로 추정할 수 있다.

한복바지와 트왈드주이 기법을 활용한 신한복 여자 바지 디자인 개발(Ⅱ)

임린 한복문화학회 2023 韓服文化 Vol.26 No.3

This study aims to develop the designs of new Hanbok women's pants by applying traditional Korean pants and the toile de Jouy expression. In terms of study method, theoretical research was conducted on Korean traditional Hanbok pants and toile de Jouy. New Hanbok women's pants reflecting the Korean image were designed, and virtual clothing was implemented. As a result, five designs of new hanbok women's pants were developed, details of which are as follows. First, the literature review derived the following design motifs for men's pants with traditional hanbok's hemline decoration, Sapok-baji, women's Sokbaji, Dan-sokgot, Salchang-gojaeng-yi, Neo-reun-baji, Malgun, and Pungcha-baji. Second, two patterns of toile de Jouy were developed with the Joseon Dynasty and Korean women's themes by the harmony of characters and surroundings, delicate drawings, story development, simple arrangement of colors, and motif arrangement. Third, six new hanbok women's pants designs were implemented through CLO 3D program-based virtual clothing. Design 1 used Neo-reun-baji as a motif and chambray fabric. It comprises a waistband, waist gathers, a side opening, and a belt. Design 2 brought up the image of women's Sokbaji, and broadcloth was used to make it look casual. Design 3 used Pungcha-baji as a motif and is a jumpsuit with short pants. The ankle bands, which used to tie the bottom of the hemline of men's pants, were attached to the bottom of the short pants to make the design look cute. Design 4 contained the components of Dan-sokgot and Salchang-gojaeng-yi and shoulder straps looking like suspenders, used denim fabric, and decorated with a wave pattern. Design 5 used Malgun as a motif with sateen fabric, showing a fullness silhouette. It features belt-tightening, crotch, and pintuck. The patterns of toile de Jouy were applied to all five designs of new Hanbok women's pants.

스포츠 클라이밍 팬츠의 기능적 디자인에 대한 소비자 수요 특성과 상품 개발

박지혜,천종숙 복식문화학회 2017 服飾文化硏究 Vol.25 No.3

The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers’ demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men’s pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women’s pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.

American Women`s Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War 2

( Yhe Young Lee ),( Jane Farrell Beck ) 대한가정학회 2010 International Journal of Human Ecology Vol.11 No.1

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman`s Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women`s adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women`s adoption of pants? How did American women`s adoption of pants and the social opinions on women`s pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men`s clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women`s fashion. Femininity was still important in women`s fashion. There were criticisms over the women`s adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women`s gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women`s day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to abopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

American Women's Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War II

이예영,JANE FARRELL-BECK 대한가정학회 2010 International Journal of Human Ecology Vol.11 No.1

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

American Women's Adoption of Pants and the Changing Definition of Femininity during World War II

Lee, Yhe-Young,Farrell-Beck, Jane The Korean Home Economics Association 2010 International Journal of Human Ecology Vol.11 No.1

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

배기팬츠 엉덩이둘레 여유분과 밑위길이 여유분 변화에 따른 시각적 이미지- 20대 여성을 중심으로-

최은주 ( Eun Ju Choi ),서미아 ( Mi A Suh ),어미경 ( Mi Kyung Uh ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.6

With a long crotch length and much ease in the hip area, baggy pants are visually expressed in a variety of designs when compared with regular pants. The purpose of this study is to define the image differences of various baggy pants designs according to hip circumference and crotch length ease. To that end, this study deduced the visual image variable of experimental baggy pants and analyzed visual images according to changes in hip circumference and crotch length. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Four visual image factors of experimental baggy pants were extracted: whole body compensation, lower body compensation, hip compensation, and waist compensation. Among the 4 factors, the whole body compensation factor was shown as the most representative factor. The body compensation image was higher with less hip circumference ease in the experimental baggy pants, and more hip circumference ease created the optical illusion of a larger body figure, presenting a significant difference between waist circumference and hip circumference. The lower body compensation factor, hip compensation factor, and waist compensation factor all showed a significant influence on changes in hip circumference ease. This result shows that changes in hip circumference ease exerted more influence on the body compensation image than did changes in crotch length ease. The results of this study provide basic data for predicting visual images according to differences in the level of ease in baggy pants, helping people select clothing suitable to their preferences and body shapes.