18세기 창녕조씨 저고리 직물분석

이미식(Lee Mee-Sik),홍문경(Hong Moon-Kyung) 한복문화학회 2015 韓服文化 Vol.18 No.4

The purpose of this study was to understand 18th century women"s jeogori fabric trends by examining excavated jeogories from the tomb of Lady Changneong-Jo (1721-1742). Total of 25 jeogories were analyzed and then compared with other commonly used fabrics of the time. All the fabrics of 25 jeogories were silk. For fabric construction, combinations of the three fundamental weaves were utilized. There were total of 42 types of fabric: 23 plain weave fabric, 7 twill fabric, and 12 satin fabric. Of these, 32 were patterned fabric. Plain weave fabrics were used on 14 different jeogories. Out of these, 13 patterned plain weave fabrics were observed. The patterned parts were mostly 3/1 right-handed twill. All the twill fabrics were patterned and were used in 5 jeogories. Ground structure was 3/1 right-handed twill. For the patterned parts, 6 pieces were reversed satin, and one was 1/3 left-handed twill. Satin fabrics were used in 11 jeogories. There were total of 12 different types, all patterned satin fabrics(damask). The utilized ground structures were one of the three types: 5 leaf 2 float, 5 leaf 3 float or 8 leaf 3 float satin weave. All patterned parts were reversed satin. In the final analysis, total of 79 jeogori fabrics(bodice & sleeve) used in 18th century, including the pieces from the Lady Changneong-Jo"s tomb were examined. As a result, this study discovered that for 18th Century jeogori fabrics plain weave fabrics were the most frequently used, followed by satin fabrics and twill fabrics.

16∼17세기 송희종ㆍ순흥안씨묘 출토직물의 유형과 특성

장현주(Jang Hyun-Joo) 한복문화학회 2007 韓服文化 Vol.10 No.3

The study aims to investigate the types and characteristics of the fabrics excavated from the tomb of Song Hee-Jong and of his wife from Sunheung Ahn clan in the 16th-17th century. The significance of this study lies in the understanding the characteristics of the fabrics that were used by a man and a woman who lived in the same family in the same era. The findings of this study are as follows: 1. There were various types of fabrics found such as Ju of plain weaved silk fabrics, Mu-mundan and Mundan of satin weave fabrics, Jeopo and Mapo of hemp fabrics, Myeonpoof cotton fabrics, and silk-cotton mixed fabrics. 2. Among the various types of fabrics, the amount of silk fabrics was greater than that of other types of fabrics in both tombs. Plain weaved silk fabrics and cotton fabrics were found from the tomb of Song Hee-Jong, while Mundan and silk-cotton mixed fabrics as well as plain weaved silk fabrics were unearthed from the tomb of his wife. 3. Silk fabrics were mostly used for jackets such as Jeogori and Po, while cotton fabrics were commonly used for Baji and Chima. Delicate silk fabrics may have been used mostly for jackets that put more emphasis on decoration value. Likewise, silk fabrics were used commonly for headgears and crafts. On the other hand, cotton fabrics were mostly used for pants or skirts that emphasize practical value.

여대생의 국적에 따른 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각과 촉감 선호도 비교

멍위 ( Yu Meng ),최종명 ( Jongmyoung Choi ) 한국감성과학회 2021 감성과학 Vol.24 No.1

This study determines the differences between Korean female university students and their Chinese counterparts residing in Korea by evaluating the subjective sensation and tactile preference in fabrics for casual shirts. Seven types of white causal shirt fabrics were selected as specimens from those available in spring and autumn shirt collection. The fabrics were made from various fibers (cotton 100%, polyester 100%, flax 100%, polyester 80%/cotton 20%, polyester 65%/cotton 35%, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5%, and polyester 50%/modal 50%). Forty Korean and Chinese female university students subjectively assessed the subjective sensation of fabrics used for casual shirts. Participants were asked to observe the seven types of fabrics and complete the questionnaire. The subjective sensation to be assessed for white casual shirt fabrics was classified into the following four factors: smoothness, lightness, softness, and stretchiness. Subjective sensation factors showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students evaluated cotton fabric as being light, whereas their Chinese counterparts evaluated the polyester/cotton/spandex blended fabric as light. Korean female students evaluated polyester/modal blended fabric as being stretchable. The tactile preference for fiber composition of the fabrics showed partially significant differences by nationality. Korean female students preferred cotton 80%/polyester 20% blended fabric, polyester 50%/cotton 45%/spandex 5% blended fabric, and flax 100% fabric. The subjective sensation of the fabrics had different effects on preferences by nationality. Smoothness and softness had positive effects on preferences for the fabrics of Korean students. However, smoothness, softness, and stretchiness had positive effects on the preferences of Chinese students. The subjective sensation and tactile preference for casual shirt fabrics showed a difference between Korean female students and their Chinese counterparts. Therefore, when planning casual shirt fabrics for female university students, it is necessary to reflect on these differences in subjective sensation and tactile preference.

쪽과 인디고페라의 신선한 잎 즙액이 직물의 염색성에 미치는 영향

장홍기 ( Hong Gi Jang ),이승진 ( Seung Jin Lee ),박윤점 ( Yun Jum Park ),허북구 ( Buk Gu Heo ) 원광대학교 생명자원과학연구소 2011 생명자원과학연구 Vol.33 No.1

This study was conducted to examine the effect of Polygonum tinctorium and Indigofera tinctoria fresh leaf juice on the dyeability of silk fabrics, rayon, cotton fabrics, sheep`s wool and acryl fabrics. Dyeing solution were made from 100 g fresh leaves, 200 mL distilled water, 70 g ice and potassium carbonate (0, 2, 4, 6 g). These materials were pulverized with the mixer, and dyed for 10 minutes. a* values were -5.36~-17.46 regardless of the kinds of dyes, textiles and the amount of potassium carbonate added. b* values were almost 5.37~31.48, except silk fabrics treated with Polygonum tinctorium juice and no addition of potassium carbonate by -12.06. b* values on the color coordinates were more moved to yellow color in the dyeing treatment with Indigofera tinctoria juice than that with Polygonum tinctorium irrespective of the kind of textiles. Color difference of silk fabrics increased when dyed with Polygonum tinctorium juice, however, that of rayon, cotton fabrics, sheep`s wool and acryl fabrics increased dyed with Indigofera tinctoria juice. Colors of silk fabrics and sheep`s wool dyed with Polygonum tinctorium juice and no addition of potassium carbonate were B levels, however, that with Indigofera tinctoria were almost GY levels, except that with Indigofera tinctoria and no addition of potassium carbonate were G levels. Consequently, it was confirmed that Indigofera tinctoria fresh leaf juice could be used adequately as the dyes for the silk fabrics, rayon, cotton fabrics, sheep`s wool and acryl fabrics, which was alike the Polygonum tinctorium fresh leaf juice.

마와 인조섬유 교직물의 물성 및 태 평가

최종명,양진숙,김순심 한국의류학회 2000 한국의류학회지 Vol.24 No.6

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the physical properties and the hand of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics compared to linen. The mixed fabrics were made by rayon, polyester and modal fiber as warp yarn, and ramie, flax, rayon/flax and cotton/flax as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength/extension, water absorbancy and warmth retention were measured for test fabrics. The mechanical properties were measured by Kawabata system, and the hand value was calculated by previously developed equation. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The crease resistance and drape properties of bast/man made fiber mixed fabrics were improved compared to those of linen. The tensile strength of polyester/bast fiber mixed fabrics increased compared to those of linen, but rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics decreased. The extension of all mixed fabrics was increased compared to that of linen. The rayon/ramie and modal/ramie mixed fabrics showed lower warmth retention than linen. The mixed fabrics used rayon and modal as warp yarn showed higher water absorbancy than linen. The Koshi and Han hand value of all mixed fabrics showed lower than those of linen. Fukurami hand value showed little difference between mixed fabrics and linen. Shari, Kishimi, and Shinayakasa hand value of rayon/bast and modal/bast fiber mixed fabrics showed higher than those of linen.

Thermal Insulation Performance of Cotton and PET-based Hybrid Fabrics Impregnated with Silica Aerogel via a Facile Dip-dry Process

Jing Yan,최형열,홍영기,정영규 한국섬유공학회 2018 Fibers and polymers Vol.19 No.4

We report the morphological features and thermal insulation properties of a series of cotton- and PET-based hybrid fabrics impregnated with silica aerogel. For the purpose, commercially available cotton and PET knitted fabrics were dipped into aqueous dispersions including different silica aerogel contents, dried, and stacked to 1, 3, and 5 layers. The SEM images revealed that the silica aerogel particles were well incorporated into cotton or PET knitted fabrics. The thermal insulating performance of the hybrid fabrics as functions of the silica aerogel content and the number of layers of stacked fabrics were characterized by monitoring the surface temperatures of the fabrics on a plate with a wide temperature range of ~50-80 oC using an infrared camera. The higher thermal insulation performance was attained for both cotton- and PET-based hybrid fabrics with higher silica aerogel contents. In addition, 3-layered hybrid fabrics exhibited noticeably improved thermal insulation performance, compared to 1- or 5-layered fabrics. The thermal insulation property of the cotton-based hybrid fabrics was dominantly influenced by silica aerogel than that of PET-based hybrid fabrics. The overall results demonstrated that the cotton- and PET-based hybrid fabrics with silica aerogel manufactured by a facile dip-dry process could be utilized as protective garments, heat-sensitive devices, pipes, automotive, aircrafts, and buildings for thermal insulation applications.

면 데님소재의 색채 특성과 주관적 감각이 선호도에 미치는 영향

김여원,멍위,최종명 한국감성과학회 2017 감성과학 Vol.20 No.4

본 연구는 대학생 소비자의 선호 감성을 반영한 패션소재기획에 도움을 주고자 수행되었다. 8종의 데님소재를 대상으로 색채 특성과 역학적 특성 등의 객관적 특성을 평가하였으며, 데님소재의 색채 선호도, 주관적 감각, 촉감 선호도를대학생을 대상으로 조사하였다. 또한 데님소재의 색채 선호도와 촉감 선호도가 데님 슬랙스의 구매 선호도에 미치는영향을 파악하였다. 데님소재의 색채 선호도는 데님소재의 개별 시료에 따른 유의한 차이를 보였다. 대학생들은 데님소재의 색채특성 중 -b*값과 C값이 낮게 측정된 남색(PB)의 데님소재를 선호하였다. 데님소재의 역학적 특성 중에서마찰계수 평균편차(MMD), 마찰계수(MIU), 기하학적 거칠기(SMD) 등의 표면특성과 전단 히스테리시스(2HG5) 등의 전단특성은 주관적 감각에 중요한 영향을 미치는 요인이었다. 한편, 데님소재의 촉감 선호도는 개별 시료에 따른유의한 차이를 보였다. 폴리우레탄이 혼방된 데님소재에 대한 촉감 선호도가 높게 나타났으며, 면섬유 100%로 구성된상대적으로 두껍고 무거운 데님소재의 촉감 선호도는 낮았다. 또한 촉감 선호도에 영향을 미치는 주관적 감각은 평활감,유연감, 경량감 등의 순이었다. 데님 슬랙스에 대한 구매 선호도는 모두 평균 4점 이상의 점수를 나타내어 선호하였다. 데님소재의 색채 선호도와 촉감 선호도는 데님 슬랙스 구매 선호도에 영향을 미쳤는데, 색채 선호도가 더욱 영향을주었다. This study was performed to help the denim fabric planning which reflects the sensibility preference of university students. Objective characteristics, like color properties and mechanical properties, in 8 denim fabrics (5 cotton 100% fabrics and 3 cotton/polyurethane blended fabrics) were evaluated. And the color preference, subjective sensation and tactile preference of denim fabrics were investigated among the university students. The effect of color preference and tactile preference of denim fabrics on the purchase preference of denim slacks was also examined. Color preference of denim fabrics showed a significant difference according to the kind of denim fabrics. University students preferred purple blue denim fabrics that was measured low -b* value and low C* value among the color properties of denim fabrics. Among the mechanical properties of denim fabrics, surface property like MMD, MIU and SMD as well as shear property like 2HG5 were important elements affecting subjective sensation. While, tactile preferences showed a significant difference according to the fabrics. The tactile preferences of cotton/polyurethane blended denim fabrics was highly preferred, and that of heavy 100% cotton denim fabric was lowly preferred. And the subjective sensation affecting tactile preferences were in order of smoothness, softness, lightness. It is concluded that the color preference and tactile preference influenced upon the purchase preference of denim slacks, and color preference had a bigger effect upon the purchase preference.

Bursting Strength of Core Spun Cotton/Spandex Single Jersey and 1×1 Rib Knitted Fabrics

Chathura N. Herath 한국섬유공학회 2021 Fibers and polymers Vol.22 No.4

This research work investigates the bursting strength of core spun cotton/spandex and 100 % cotton, single jerseyand 1×1 rib knitted fabrics, made with low, medium and high fabric tightness factors obtained using three machine set stitchlengths. These knitted fabric samples were relaxed under the dry relaxation to full relaxation and further relaxation up to 5thwashing cycle treatments. For wash relaxation treatments, full relaxed samples were used. Course and wale densities, stitchdensities, fabric thickness and bursting strength of the samples were measured at the end of each relaxation stage. Thus,before commencing the dry relaxation treatment, machine off stitch lengths of samples were also measured. It was found that,structural parameters, and fabric thickness increased with the progression of relaxation of fabrics and they depend on thefabric tightness factor (stitch length-1). Single jersey and 1×1 rib cotton/spandex knitted fabrics showed higher structuralparameter values and higher fabric thicknesses than similar types of structures produced with cotton knitted fabrics at each ofthe relaxation treatments, even though they had the same machine set stitch lengths. Also, cotton and cotton/spandex 1×1 ribfabrics gave higher structural parameter values than their single jersey fabrics. Cotton single jersey and 1×1 rib fabrics gavecomparatively higher bursting strengths than their cotton/spandex fabrics and bursting strength has gradually increased withprogressing of relaxation treatments done. However, bursting strength of cotton/spandex 1×1 rib fabrics has graduallydecreased with progressing of relaxation treatments, due to their longer tumble drying duration, where as cotton/spandexsingle jersey fabrics showed an increasing tendency of bursting strength under progressing of treatments, due to the lowertumble drying duration applied than their 1×1 rib fabrics. It was also found that the fabric tightness factor or stitch length,relaxation states of single jersey and 1×1 rib fabrics, fiber content of the yarns in these knitted fabrics and knitted structuretype are significantly effect on structural parameters such as course and wale density and stitch density, fabric thickness andbursting strength of these tested knitted fabrics, under the 95 % significant level. In addition, the fiber content and thestructure type are very important to consider for the bursting strength of knitted fabrics, when these knitted fabrics aresubjected to tumbler drying. Thus, yarn strength can give a significant effect on bursting strength of these knitted fabrics.

18세기 후기 운보문 어보 보자기의 문양 분석 - 연환문이 포함된 운보문을 중심으로 -

이은주,진덕순 국립고궁박물관 2022 古宮文化 Vol.- No.15

This study divided a total of 103 pieces of cloud treasure patterned royal-seal fabrics, including yeonhwanmun patterned fabrics, into four types based on the Jeongha Cloud-Treasure Pattern Reading Method, and compared them with the patterns of the certificate of royal title and the fabric book cover, respectively, of which the production dates were relatively clear. By this method, this study identified the production date of royal-seal wrapping fabrics and then based on the results of the dates, it examined whether the fabrics’ production dates were contradictory or unclear. First, in the certificate of royal title and the bookcloth which had the cloud treasure patterned fabrics including yeonhwanmun, were found ten pieces of certificate of royal title (1744~1847), 42 pieces of jade bookcloth (1772~1908), and three pieces of bamboo bookcloth (1776), totaling 55 pieces. By a comparison with the certificate and the jade bookcloth, it was found that the cloud treasure patterned fabrics with yeonhwanmun were used after the reign of King Yongjo in the mid-18th century. Second, Type 1 royal-seal fabrics (28 pieces, 1756~1908) included the patterns of Mubo-Seo-bo-Seogak-Yeonhwan-(Leftward/Rightward)-Mubo-Seobo-Seogak-Jeonbo pair. The same patterns were found in 14 pieces of the certificate of royal title and the bookcloth (1772~1778), which indicated that they were used from late King Yongju to the early days of King Jeongjo. This study suggested a possibility that of the 28 fabrics, eight pieces had an unclear production period. Third, Type 2 royal-seal fabrics (28 pieces, 1729~1879) included the patterns of Cheopseung-Seobo-Seogak-Yeonhwan-(Leftward/Rightward)-Cheopseung-Seobo- Seogak-Jeonbo pair, in which five kinds of general treasure pattern were used. By the comparison with eight pieces’ certificate and the bookcloth (1802~1847), it was found that they were used in the early 19th century. This study suggested a possibility that of the 28 fabrics, ten pieces had an unclear production period. Fourth, Type 3 royal-seal fabrics (33 pieces, 1457~1908) had the same pattern as Type 2 in composition and arrangement, but the vertical length of the head of the cloud pattern was longer than the width length. Nevertheless, as the same pattern was found in 23 pieces of jade bookcloth (1827~1908), this study found that they were used from King Sunjo in the early 19th century to the Korean Empire period in the early 20th century. It also suggested a possibility that of the 33 pieces of fabrics, about 12 pieces had an unclear production period. Fifth, Type 4 pattern of royal fabrics (14 pieces, 1851~1908) included eight general treasure patterns, which were Geumjeong–Seobo–Seogak–Yeohwan/Cheopseung– Banjang-Sanho-Jeonbo pair. By comparing them with one piece of jade bookcloth (1853) and two pieces of the battle flag of Lee Hyun Jik (1797~1876), it was found that the fabrics were used before and after 1850s, from the late King Hun-jong through the reign of King Cheol-jong. This study suggested a possibility that of the 14 pieces of fabrics, the production period of 8 pieces were unclear. 이 연구는 ‘연환문’이 포함된 운보문 어보 보자기 103점을 ‘정하 운보문 판독법’으로 네 유형으로 분류하고 제작 시기가 분명한 교명과 책의의 문양과 비교하여 어보 보자기의 제작 시기를 확인한 후 그 시기를 근거로 교란 여부를 살펴보았다. 첫째 교명과 책의에서 연환문이 포함된 운보문 직물은 교명 10점(1744~1847), 옥책 42점(1772~1908), 죽책 3점(1776) 등 총 55점이 확인되었다. 교명과 옥책을 통해 볼 때 연환문이 있는 운보문은 18세기 중기 영조대 이후에 사용되었음을 알 수 있었다. 둘째 어보 보자기 유형 1(28점, 1756~1908)은 【무보-서보-서각-연환-(좌향/우향)-무보-서보-서각-전보쌍】 문양으로, 교명과 책의 등 14점(1772~1778)에서 동일 문양이 확인되었는데 영조 말기에서 정조 초기에 사용된 직물임을 알 수 있었다. 보자기 28점 중 8점이 교란되었을 가능성을 제시하였다. 셋째 어보 보자기 유형 2(28점, 1729~1879)는 【첩승-서보-서각-연환-(좌향/우향)-첩승-서보-서각-전보쌍】 문양으로, 5종의 일상 보문이 사용되었다. 교명과 책의 8점(1802~1847)을 통해 19세기 전기에 사용한 직물로 확인되었다. 보자기 28점 중 10점이 교란되었을 가능성을 제시하였다. 넷째 어보 보자기 유형 3(33점, 1457~1908)은 유형 2와 보문의 구성과 배열은 동일하지만 운두의 세로 길이가 가로보다 길었다. 옥책 23점(1827~1908)에서 동일 문양이 확인됨에 따라 19세기 초 순조대 부터 20세기 초 대한제국기까지 사용되었음을 확인하였다. 보자기 33점 중 12점 정도가 교란되었을 가능성을 제시하였다. 다섯째 어보 보자기 문양 유형 4(14점, 1851~1908)는 【금정-서보-서각-연환/첩승-반장-산호-전보쌍】으로, 8종의 일상 보문으로 구성되었다. 옥책 1점(1853년)과 이현직(1797~1876)의 〈사명기〉 2점을 통하여 1850년 전후인 헌종 말기에서 철종대에 사용된 것으로 확인되었다. 14점 중 8점이 교란되었을 가능성을 제시하였다.

문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고

권영숙(Young Suk Kwon),장현주(Hyun Joo Jang) 한국복식학회 2001 服飾 Vol.51 No.6

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabric(紋紬), whose patterns are expressed by dyeing, as well as non-designed tabby fabric(紬). The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern, etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern, etc., geometric patterns, such as turtoise-shell pattern, swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gilt gauze (金箔紋羅). The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze(織錦羅) and 3 pieces of brocaded twill(織錦). Brocaded gauze(織錦羅) is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.