재킷 소매의 심미적 외관을 위한 슬리브헤드 제품개발

박영자 ( Young Ja Park ),장정아 ( Jeong Ah Jang ) 한국의류학회 2016 한국의류학회지 Vol.40 No.2

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women``s sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women``s sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men``s would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of 30° and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women``s would be 40cm, 30° and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men``s and women``s sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1- layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men``s and women``s, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men``s, and 1-layer of felt for women``s so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

The Sleeve-Cap Part Drafting Method of the General-Purpose Sleeve Pattern and the Verification of Compatibility Compatibility

( Kyung Hee Cho ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2012 패션 비즈니스 Vol.16 No.3

This study devised and drew custom sleeve patterns by using a regression equation with the data from 7 models along with the sleeve that was slightly modified to make the general-purpose sleeve pattern. To devise a general-purpose sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern was drawn as an object for comparison by applying the Bunka drafting system (sleeve pattern by the Bunka drafting system) to the basic upper garment. Actual sleeves, made by using the three types of patterns above, were created and tested by models. Next, 30 panel members participated in a sight test of the compatibility of the sleeves to examine the validity of the sleeve drafting method acquired using the regression equation. The test proved that the custom sleeve pattern and the general-purpose sleeve pattern were more suitable for the characteristics of arm structures. Thus, the new sleeve-cap part drafting method using the regression equation was shown to have validity. As a result, since a very significant correlation was obtained for the body measurement figures and the basic pattern of the adequate basic pattern of the sleeves, this study concludes that it is possible to come up with primary data that can be widely used by increasing the number of subjects.

Simulation Analysis of Cylinder Impact Performance Influenced by Shaft Sleeve Structure

Cong Liu,Pei Xiao,Xingli Li,Gangyan Li 한국유체기계학회 2018 International journal of fluid machinery and syste Vol.11 No.1

To study the cylinder motion characteristics, cylinder and shaft sleeve stress characteristics of cylinder stroke and return process influenced by different shaft sleeve structure, the cylinders with non-chamfering shaft sleeve, C0.3 chamfering shaft sleeve and R0.3 round corner shaft sleeve were used for simulation of cylinder stroke and return process. The results show that the piston velocity curves of three kinds of shaft sleeve are identical. Maximum stress of different shaft sleeves fluctuates and maximum stress elements of C0.3 and R0.3 shaft sleeve are similar. When cylinder strokes, maximum stress of cylinder occurs at the end of piston rod connected to the load; the stress of C0.3 shaft sleeve is the lowest. When cylinder returns, maximum stress of cylinder occurs at the shaft sleeve; the stress of C0.3 and R0.3 shaft sleeve differ little and are both lower than that of non-chamfering shaft sleeve. It provides a reference for structure optimization and service life improvement of the cylinder shaft sleeve.

Simulation Analysis of Cylinder Impact Performance Influenced by Shaft Sleeve Structure

Liu, Cong,Xiao, Pei,Li, Xingli,Li, Gangyan Korean Society for Fluid machinery 2018 International journal of fluid machinery and syste Vol.11 No.1

To study the cylinder motion characteristics, cylinder and shaft sleeve stress characteristics of cylinder stroke and return process influenced by different shaft sleeve structure, the cylinders with non-chamfering shaft sleeve, C0.3 chamfering shaft sleeve and R0.3 round corner shaft sleeve were used for simulation of cylinder stroke and return process. The results show that the piston velocity curves of three kinds of shaft sleeve are identical. Maximum stress of different shaft sleeves fluctuates and maximum stress elements of C0.3 and R0.3 shaft sleeve are similar. When cylinder strokes, maximum stress of cylinder occurs at the end of piston rod connected to the load; the stress of C0.3 shaft sleeve is the lowest. When cylinder returns, maximum stress of cylinder occurs at the shaft sleeve; the stress of C0.3 and R0.3 shaft sleeve differ little and are both lower than that of non-chamfering shaft sleeve. It provides a reference for structure optimization and service life improvement of the cylinder shaft sleeve.

연구논문 : 재킷 소매의 심미적 외관을 위한 슬리브헤드의 제품분석 및 외관평가

박영자 ( Young Ja Park ),장정아 ( Jeong Ah Jang ) 한국의류학회 2015 한국의류학회지 Vol.39 No.6

This study analyzes the form of sleeve heads, which is an important internal element that affects the appearance of jacket sleeves. It characterized sleeve head forms by investigating angles, materials, and a combination of formations for 50 sleeve heads. It conducted an appearance evaluation by comparing and analyzing the results. This paper develops a sleeve head appropriately for sleeve construction. The study results are as follows. First, the product was divided into three parts: based on, force receiving, and sleeve cap parts. There were four types of man``s sleeve head: straight, arc, and curve A and B types. The woman``s sleeve head had two types: straight and curve B type. Second, the feature of each type of sleeve head was analyzed. A straight type emphasized the based on part. An arc type highlighted the force receiving part while the based on part decreased. The sleeve cap part, force receiving part, and based on part were emphasized in the arc type sleeve head. Third, as a result of the appearance evaluation, each type was rank as straight type < arc type ≤ curve A < curve B. The straight type did not get positive results as it had extra ease when the sleeve head was attached to a Jacket Sleeve. The arc type was evaluated poorly due to an inappropriate sleeve cap composition. The curve type received an excellent overall outcome as it fit into the sleeve cap part well and highlighted the force receiving part in order to minimize front and back wrinkles. Therefore, the curve type made the resemblance of the jacket appearance perfect and closest to the sleeve pattern.

구성요인에 따른 래글런 슬리브 패턴의 비교 연구

이경화,조재희 한국의류학회 2002 한국의류학회지 Vol.26 No.11

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional raglan sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. ₁. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. ₂. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score. ₃. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was she lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the best functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

1890년대와 1900년대 여성복 재킷 소매 패턴형태연구

박소진 ( So Jin Park ),천종숙 ( Jong Suk Chun ) 대한가정학회 2014 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.52 No.1

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women`s jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women`s costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women`s jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s` sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s` women`s jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s` jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s` sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s` sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s` sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women`s jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women`s jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

소매 형태에 따른 외관과 동작 기능성 평가

최희은 ( Hee Eun Choi ) 한국디자인트렌드학회 2021 한국디자인포럼 Vol.26 No.1

연구배경 본 연구는 소매 디자인 형태에 따른 외관과 동작 기능성의 차이 여부를 파악하여 활동성이 좋은 평상복의 기능적인 소매 패턴 개발의 기초자료로 활용하고자 진행되었다. 연구방법 소매 형태 외의 요소를 모두 통제한 후 제작된 블라우스 대해 20대 평균체형의 피험자 10인을 대상으로 외관 평가와 동작 적합성, 관절각도 및 동작에 따른 옷 길이 변화량을 측정하였다. 연구결과 외관 평가 결과, 전체적인 소매 모양과 소매 달린 모양, 어깨, 앞진동 부위에서 래글런 소매와 셋인 소매가 기모노 소매에 비해 외관 평가 결과가 좋았으며 (***p<.001), 소매부리와 소매길이를 제외한 대부분의 부위에서 기모노 소매가 래글런 소매와 셋인 소매에 비해 여유분이 많았다(*p<.05). 동작 적합성 평가 결과, 수직 45°동작에서부터 기모노 소매가 래글런 소매와 셋인 소매보다 동작 적합성이 더 우수했지만(*p<.05), 135°이상의 수직 동작에서는 기모노 소매의 동작 적합성 또한 낮아졌다. 팔의 관절 가동 범위를 측정한 결과, 125.4o∼141.6o 구간의 결과가 나왔지만, 소매 형태별 유의차는 없었다. 옷 길이 변화에서는 135°이상의 동작에서 기모노 소매의 소매단 길이의 변화량이 가장 컸다. 결론 본 연구를 통해 의복의 외관과 동작 기능성은 셋인 소매, 래글런 소매, 기모노 소매와 같은 소매의 디자인 형태가 아닌, 여유분, 소매 달림 각도, 안소매 길이 등의 여러 패턴 구성 요소의 영향을 받고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 의복의 설계 목적에 따라 심미성과 동작 기능성을 갖춘 적절한 형태의 소매를 설계하는 것이 중요할 것이다. Background This study is conducted to identify differences in appearance and motion functionality depending on the sleeve design type, in order to use it as a basis for the development of functional sleeve patterns in active casual clothes. Methods After controlling all factors other than the sleeve shape, the appearance evaluation, the motion suitability, range of motion and clothing length change measurement according to movement were conducted for 10 subjects of average body type. Result Appearance evaluation results showed that the Raglan sleeve and the Set-in sleeve were better than the Kimono sleeve in the overall sleeve shape, hanging shape, shoulder line, and front armhole line area(***p<.001). In most areas excluding the sleeves and sleeve lengths, the Kimono sleeve had more overall ease than the Raglan sleeve and the Set-in sleeve(*p<.05). As a result of the motion suitability evaluation, the Kimono sleeve was better than the Raglan sleeve and the Set-in sleeve from the vertical motion 45°(*p<.05), but the motion suitability of the Kimono sleeve also decreased in the vertical motion above 135°. As a result of measuring the range of motion, the range of 125.4°to 141.6°was obtained, but there was no significant difference in sleeve shape. The change in the length of the Kimono sleeve was the greatest at the motion 135°and above. Conclusion This study showed that the motion functionality of clothing is influenced by several pattern components such as ease, sleeve hanging angle and inner sleeve length, not the design shape of sleeves such as a Set-in sleeve, a Raglan sl eeve and a Kimono sleeve. Therefore, it is important to desi gn a sleeve of an appropriate shape with aesthetic appearan ce and motion functionality according to the purpose of the garment.

여성 자켓의 2장 소매패턴에 관한 연구 (제1보) : 기존 소매패턴의 비교 연구 A comparative Research on the existent sleeve patterns

김효숙,노희숙 한국의류학회 1998 한국의류학회지 Vol.22 No.5

The purpose of this study was to develop the better fitting and more comfortable sleeve pattern for women's jacket, as the first step. Five types of existent sleeve pattern were collected, made and worn compared with the sensory evaluations method. The main results of this study were as follows 1. Sensory evaluation for appearance; According to the result of Duncan's multiple range test among the five sleeve patterns, TOJAIUN method sleeve was most satisfactory, and the next was the JUNGMYUNGJA method sleeve followed by NASAN, MOONWHA, ESMOD method sleeve. 2. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Duncan's multiple range test showed that the ESMOD method sleeve was comfortable, and the next was the Japanese MOONWHA method sleeve followd by JUNGMYUNGJA, TOJAIUN, NASAN method sleeve. The result of 3-way ANOVA,main effect for 3 independent variables and interaction for pattern×part, posture×part showed significant difference.

기모노 슬리브 원형의 가동성 향상을 위한 슬리브 각도와 거싯 연구 -30대 표준체형을 중심으로-

권순교 ( Soon Kyo Kwon ),정재철 ( Jae Chul Jeong ),박선경 ( Sun Kyung Park ) 복식문화학회 2013 服飾文化硏究 Vol.21 No.5

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp`s basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately 50°, 70° and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of 55° of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of 68° of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of 68°. Also, in the results of experiment on 55° angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over 70° in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.