신라 上代 朝服의 존재와 용도

정덕기(Jung, Duk-Gi) 한국고대사탐구학회 2020 한국고대사탐구 Vol.35 No.-

본고는 중국 정사의 韓傳·新羅傳 중 풍속 관계 기사를 통해 신라 上代 朝服의 존재·용도에 대해 논의한 것이다. 한전은 마한인이 조복의 의미·용도를 이해하고, 조복을 위신재로 활용했음을 전한다. 마한의 조복·진한의 朝衣 등 용례는 마한·진한의 조복 활용 사례를 보여주며, 진한에서 조복을 활용한 경험은 신라에 영향을 미쳤다. 조복은 聽政·朝會에 쓰는 관복이므로, 신라에서는 南堂 聽政이 시작될 무렵부터 조복을 활용했다고 보인다. 『수서』~『신당서』, 新羅傳의 服色·朝服 관련 기사는 계통성을 지닌 기사로, 중국의 신라 이해도가 낮은 상황에서 신라의 대중교류 증대에 따라 유관 정보가 증보된 것이다. 이것과 色服志의 序文을 함께 고찰하면, 진평왕대를 비롯한 중고기에 백색 조복이 활용되었다. 상고기에 조복은 관인 공무 전반에 활용되었다. 중고기 초 관인의 從省服·略服·常服인 공복이 제정되며 조복은 具服·正服이 되었겠지만, 조복의 용도는 축소되었다. 따라서 신라 上代 관복제는 상고기에 조복만으로 운영되었고, 중고기 이후에는 조복·공복이 별도 계통을 이루어 운영되었다. The study examines existence and usage of jobok(朝服), which is attire of cabinet council, in Sangdae(上代) period of Silla based on the records related to the custom from 「Hanjeon(韓傳)」 and 「Sillajeon(新羅傳)」 in Chinese official history books. 「Hanjeon」 illustrates that Mahan people understood meaning and purpose of jobok that was treated as prestige goods. Taking an example of Mahan’s jobok and Jinhan’s Joui(朝衣), which was also attire of cabinet council, there was a system of jobok in Sanggo(上古) period of Silla. As this official uniform was required to attend cabinet council, Silla used this system at least from the beginning of cabinet council in Namdang(南堂). Historical records with regard to jobok and its color described in 「Sillajeon」 from 『Suseo(隨書)』, 『Buksa(北史)』, 『Gudangseo(舊唐書)』 and 『Sindangseo(新唐書)』 have a systemicity. It means that with China’s lack ofunderstanding of Silla, relevant information was supplemented as Silla’spublic exchange had increased. Considering this point and a preface of 「Saekbokji(色服志)」 of 『Samguksagi(三國史記)』 in which dress color’sbiographies are portrayed, white jobok was utilized during Junggo(中古)period of Silla, including the reign of King Jinpyeong. During Sanggo period, jobok was worn for general official duties such as attending cabinet council and envoy exchanges. In the early Junggo period, gongbok(公服) was established with jongsengbok(從省服) and yakbok(略服) which both mean casual uniform, and also sangbok(常服) that officials wore as everyday uniform. In the mean time, jobok was regarded as a formal uniform, gubok(具服) or jeongbok(正服). However, it’s usage became low. That is to say, regarding an official uniform system in Sangdae period, jobok prevailed in Sanggo period, but the system of jobok and gongbok were separately operated from the beginning of Junggo period of Silla.

신라 上代 朝服의 구성 품목 검토

정덕기 동아시아고대학회 2020 동아시아고대학 Vol.0 No.59

본고는 「蕃客入朝圖」․「王會圖」의 신라 사신도와 수․당의 조복․공복 및 신라 공복의 품목을 통해 신라 상대 조복의 구성 품목을 검토하였다. 사신은 상대국 朝會에 참석하고자 국가 간 賓禮를 준수하였다. 따라서 2종 신라 사신도는 신라 조복을 묘사한 것이다. 조복은 관인의 正服으로, 복장의 통일성을 높여 ‘君臣上下同服’의 이념을 구현한 관복이다. 이로 인해 조복은 ‘특정 품목․飾의 탈부착’을 통해 관인을 분별하였다. 신라 상대 조복은 幘․襦․袴․靴를 골격으로 上衣․下衣의 服色 및 주요 襈色을 각각 일치시켜 조복의 통일성을 제고하였다. 신라 상대 高官의 조복은 21개 품목으로 구성되며, 官位群별로 ‘특정 품목․飾의 탈부착’을 통해 관인을 분별하였다. 책․고․화는 중국에서 武官의 복식에만 쓴 품목이었다. 중국인이 신라 조복을 보면서 기원․유래를 이해하기 어렵다고 생각하거나, ‘『삼국사기』, 색복지’의 찬자가 신라 상대 복식을 夷俗으로 평가한 것은 신라 상대 조복의 구성 품목과 특징에서 이해할 수 있다. The study examines component of jobok in Sangdae period of Silla based on envoys’ images of two paintings, <Wanghoido>(王會圖) and <Bungekipjodo>(蕃客入朝圖). As related materials are rare, these two works were analyzed focusing on the relation between Silla's clothing law and components of official uniform of three countries: Suí(隋), Táng(唐), and Silla. Envoys wearing jobok attended cabinet council of other countries and were invited to events as guest with the utmost courtesy. Therefore, the depicted envoys' clothes in the two paintings indicate jobok. It was an formal uniform for uniformity of officials’ clothes. It embodies an idea that the king and servants wear the same clothes. In this regard, officials distinguished their rank by attaching and removing certain ornaments and items on jobok. Silla's jobok unified the colors of top and bottoms and senior officials' uniform consisted of 21 detachable components showing their rank.

신경유(申景裕:1581~1633년) 조복(朝服)의 후수(後綬) 연구

장정윤,박윤미,최연우 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관 2022 한국 복식 Vol.- No.47

This study examines the Husu(back decoration) of the 17th century military officer Shin Gyung-yoo’s Jobok (relics of the Ceremonial Attires) which is kept in Seokjusun Memorial Museum of Dankook University and compares the Husu system of ceremonial attires for government officials stipulated in the literature of the Joseon Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty. Husu is worn on the back when wearing Jobok. The surface of the Husu of Shin Gyung-yoo was in a poor condition and only parts of the pattern could be examined. The Jobok system for government officials enacted in March of King Taejong’s 16th year combines the Hongmuyeje and system in place at the time. The system in Hongmuyeje was established in the 24th year of Hongmu. The Jobok system established in the 16th year of Taejong applied the principle of two-rank downgrading compared to the system of the Ming Dynasty. However, this principle did not apply to some detailed parts. The Jobok system in the early Joseon Dynasty expressed different patterns according to the officials rank such as clouds with cranes, eagles, mapgies and mergansers and this system continued on, in literature, to the Korean Empire without any change. However, only clouds with cranes were actually used on Husu for Jobok in the late Joseon Dynasty. In case of 17th century Kwon Woo’s ceremonial attire, white heron patterns were used. The Husu of Shin Gyung-yoo, who was a 2nd rank official, is made of polychrome woven silk mixed with five types of weaving techniques on the outside and the lining was a three-fold 2.1 twill. As for the patterns, a few patterns including horizontal lines were examined. A part of the main pattern could be assumed as cloud patterns. However not all the patterns could be identified. The patterns were woven with supplementary weft in a double weave. 본 연구는 조선과 명의 문헌에 규정된 관원의 후수 제도와 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관에 소장된 17세기무관 신경유 조복 후수의 유물에 관해 고찰하였다. 연구를 위해 총 두 차례의 유물 실견이 이루어졌다. 비록직물 표면의 상태가 좋지 않아 완전한 형태를 복원하는 데에까지 이르지는 못했지만, 선행연구보다 한 발더 진전된 연구성과를 확보할 수 있었다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 태종 16년(1416) 3월 제정된 조선의 조복제도는 홍무예제 와 당시 시행되고 있던 조선의 제복제도를 종합한 것이다. 홍무예제 에 수록된 제도는 홍무24년(1391) 제정된 것이다. 태종 16년(1416) 마련된 조복제도는 명의 제도에 비해 이등체강 원칙을 적용한 것이지만, 세부내용에서는 이 원칙이 적용되지 않은 면도 나타난다. 품급에 따라 운학, 반조, 연작, 계칙을 표현하는 조선전기의 이 제도는 문헌에서 대한제국까지 변화없이 이어지지만, 조선후기 실제 사용된 후수는 제도와 달리 운학을 표현했고, 17세기 권우 조복 후수의 경우는 노사(鷺鷥)문양이다. 신경유 후수는 정2품 관원의후수인데, 겉감은 총 5종의 조직이 혼합된 문직물이고, 안감은 3매 능직의 무문능이다. 무늬는 가로줄 등 몇가지가 있는데 주 무늬 부분에는 일부 구름으로 추정되는 무늬가 있으나 무늬 전체를 완전히 파악하지는 못하였다. 무늬는 지위사와 별도로 굵은 문위사(supplentary weft)를 넣어 이중직(double weave)으로 짰다.

일본 나라ㆍ헤이안시대의 지배계층 남자복식의 변화와 양상 : 조복과 속대를 중심으로

이자연(Lee Ja-Yeon) 한복문화학회 2010 韓服文化 Vol.13 No.2

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aspects of the change in Jobok, a type of clothes of the ruling class men, particularly in terms of its names, purposes of wearing, wearing methods, compositions, and attire, by comparing Jobok in the early Nara-Heian period to that of the mid and late Heian period. The findings of the study are the following: First of all, the name of Jobok was renamed as Sokdae. And Jobok came to be worn for the ceremonial purposes and as a result it became to be worn as a formal dress. In terms of its types, Jobok in the early Nara-Heian period was composed of Euigun, Eui, Go, Uio, Dae, Mal, Yi, Do, and Hol. On the other hand, the composition of Sokdae in the mid and late Heian period were increased in its composition; it was composed of Gwan, Po, Banbi, Haseub, Il, Dan, Pyogo, Daegu, Seokdae, Mal, Hwa, Eodae, Taedo, Pyeongseo, and Hol,. Wearing methods of Jobokwere changed to layering other clothes over clothes. In addition, there was a tremendous change particularly in Gwan, Po, Haseub, and Pyogo. The length of clothes, sleeves, and Haseub of Jobok all became longer and its width of Gil and sleeves became wider, which resulted in massive look. Further more, compared to those in the early 10<SUP>th</SUP> century, the color and pattern of Jobok in the mid and late 10<SUP>th</SUP> century became more varied and decorative. In conclusion, during 8<SUP>th</SUP>-12<SUP>th</SUP> century, Jobok went through a tremendous change in the aspects of its name, composition, wearing method and purpose of wearing. Jobok in the mid and late Nara-Heian period were more massive, varied, and decorative than that in the early Nara-Heian period.

1811년 신미통신사 정사 김이교의 관복(官服) 고증

이주영 조선통신사학회 2021 조선통신사연구 Vol.31 No.-

본 연구는 한국과 일본에 남아 있는 문헌ㆍ유물ㆍ회화 자료를 중심으로 1811년 신미사행 시 정사 김이교가 관복(官服)으로 입 었던 조복(朝服), 상복(常服) 흑단령, 시복(時服) 홍단령에 관하여 고찰한 것이다. 1811년 신미통신사 정사 김이교의 관복 관련 문헌자료로는 『신 미통신일록(辛未通信日錄)』과 『동사록(東槎錄)』이 있고, 유물자료 로는 김이교 묘에서 출토된 조복 유물이 있으며, 회화자료로는 국 내의 흑단령 초상화와 홍단령 초상화, 일본의 조복ㆍ흑단령ㆍ홍단 령 차림 회화 등이 있다. 김이교의 관복 자료는 한 인물과 관련된 자료가 문헌ㆍ유물ㆍ회화 자료에 모두 남아 있다는 점, 세 가지유형의 자료가 상호보완적인 관계에서 신미사행 시 김이교가 입었 던 관복의 조형성에 관한 정보를 제공한다는 점, 그리고 한 개인 의 관복 착용 사례 분석이라는 가치를 넘어 19세기 초 문관 당상 관의 관복 제도와 그 변화 양상을 규명하는 단서가 된다는 점 등 에서 자료적 가치가 크다고 판단된다. 1811년 신미사행 시 정사 김이교는 당시 정3품 당상관의 복식 규정에 맞는 관복차림을 하였을 것으로 추정된다. 5월 22일 국서 전명의와 6월 15일 수회답서의를 행할 때 조복을 입었는데, 삼량 관을 쓰고 삽은대를 하였을 것이다. 5월 26일 관백연향의에 참석 할 때 상복 흑단령을 입었는데, 더운 날씨를 고려하여 현록색 운 보문사(雲步紋紗)로 만든 단령을 입고 입에 불로초를 함께 물고 있는 쌍학흉배를 부착하고 삽은대를 두르고 무아레 무늬가 있는 문사각 사모를 쓰고 흑화를 신었을 것이다. 6월 19일 하선연의에 참석할 때 시복 홍단령을 입었는데, 담홍색 사(紗)로 만든 단령을 입고 흉배는 달지 않았으며 품대ㆍ사모ㆍ흑화는 흑단령과 동일하 게 하였을 것이다. 최근 여러 문화행사에서 1811년 신미사행 시 정사의 관복 착용 모습이 재현되고 있는데, 전체적인 이미지는 그 시기의 조복ㆍ흑 단령ㆍ홍단령으로 보이지만 세부적인 조형 특성에서는 오류도 적 지 않다. 본 연구는 1811년 신미사행 시 정사 김이교의 관복 착 용 모습을 일러스트 또는 실물로 재현하는 연구에 기초자료가 될 것으로 기대된다. The purpose of this study was to research official uniforms that Kim Yi-gyo wore when he headed Shinmi Tongshinsa, a diplomatic mission to Japan in 1811. Those uniforms had three types, Jobok, Sangbok Heuk-danryeong and Sibok Hong-danryeong, which were respectively a court dress, a costume required when doing government affairs and a clothing worn at occasional state events. For the purpose, the study inspected relevant literature, artifacts and paintings that still remain in Korea or Japan. The findings of this study can be summarized in the following. Materials that provide information about official clothes which Kim Yi-gyo wore when he was delegated to Japan in 1811 as chief of Shinmi Tongshinsa include publications like 『Shinmi Tongshin Ilok』 and 『Dongsarok』, remains of Jobok unearthed from Kim Yi-gyo’s grave, some Korean portraits of Heuk-danryeong and Hong-danryeong, and some Japanese paintings of figures wearing Jobok, Heuk-danryeong or Hong-danryeong. These materials are informative of how Kim Yi-gyo individually dressed himself for official purposes. More notably, they provide clues that help get a better knowledge of costumes and their developments for Korean officials of the early 19th century. When Kim Yi-gyo headed Shinmi Tongshinsa for Japan in 1811, he wore official uniforms according to the then dress codes applied to Dangsanggwan or officials who were in the position of so-called Jeong Sampum or higher. When in Japan during the mission, more specifically, he wore Jobok at Gukseo Jeonmyeonghee and Suhoe Dapseoeui, which meant the formal events of delivering state messages and receiving responsive ones. Meanwhile, he wore a hat called Samryangkwan and a belt, Sapeundae as well. When in Gwanbaek Yeonhyangeui, that is, a banquet host by the Japanese monarch, Kim Yi-gyo officially dressed himself with Sangbok Heuk-danryeong or, in more detail, Danryeong threaded with thick-green Unbomun meaning cloud patterns. At the same time, he had Ssanghak Hyungbae patched on the front and back of the official uniform. And he also wore Sapeundae, a hat with wave patterns or Moirre fringe, and a black footwear. When invited to a feast event, especially Haseon Yeoneui during the visit to Japan, his official uniform was Sibok Hong-daneyong which was Danryeong made with rose-pink threads. That uniform didn’t have Hyungbae patched on it. Hopefully, this study provides basic information useful for making an illustration or real-life replication of official uniforms that Kim Yi-gyo wore as chief of Shinmi Tongshinsa in 1811.

조선통신사 축제의 삼사신(三使臣) 조복(朝服) 제작을 위한 제언

이영주(Yeong-Ju Lee),김효숙(Hyo-Suk Kim) 한국의상디자인학회 2019 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.21 No.2

복식유물의 보존을 위한 제안 : 밀창군 조복의 복제를 중심으로 Mainly on the Replication of Milchanggun's Jobok

채옥자,박지선,박성실 한국의류학회 2006 한국의류학회지 Vol.30 No.6

조선전기 조회의례(朝會儀禮) 중 관원 복식 연구

장정윤,최연우 한복문화학회 2022 韓服文化 Vol.25 No.1

Jobok(朝服) is official attire worn for official morning meetings between monarchs and servants. It is worn as an official attire that applies to various situations. This study clarified the types and elaborate ceremonies of inquiry rituals based on the Codes of the Early Joseon Dynasty. It analyzed the attire of officials who participated in each tradition. This study reviewed the literature from a new perspective. Although it is essential information for understanding the situation of wearing clothes, we analyzed data that has not been noticed in the history of clothes. The study results are as follows. In a dictionary sense, government officials' Jobok means clothes worn when meeting the king and is the concept of Jobok worn when participating in the morning meeting with the king. The official morning meeting is to greet the king, solidify the ruling order, and discuss political affairs. Moring official meetings for the early Joseon Dynasty were formalized as ‘Joha(朝賀),’ ‘Jocham(朝參)’ and ‘Sangcham(常參)’ in Gyeongguk Daejeon(經國大典) . The official's morning meeting attire was defined as Jobok, Gongbok(公服), and Sangbok(常服), according to the size and nature of the ritual. In the case of new year day and the winter solstice. the officials wear a Jobok to the king, a Gongbok to the prince in the morning greeting, and a Sangbok to the Jocham and Sangcham. In Sakmang(朔望), the officials wore Jobok but after 1433(the 15th year of King Sejong's reign), the wearing regulations have changed to Gongbok. In the case of various rituals on the same day, such as the Lunar New Year and the winter solstice, the official wears Mangwolrye(望闕禮) and Jobok during the morning greeting to king and queen the official wears Gongbok during the greeting to the crown prince. Officials wear appropriate costumes for each ritual and move to the place where each ritual is performed to participate in the ritual. .

조선 후기의 사직제례 복식 연구

김소현 한복문화학회 2022 韓服文化 Vol.25 No.4

It was intended to improve the perfection of Sajik-daeje by studying the attires of those who participated in the Sajikdan in the late Joseon Dynasty. Based on the book of 《Sajikseo-uigwe》 and the folding screen of 《Sajikdan-gukwang-chinhyangdo》, the procedure of Sajik rituals in the late Joseon Dynasty were examined, and the clothes of the participants. As a person who managed the Sajikdan and practically led the rites, subok wore a black hat(巾) and a red jikryeong. Seowon was an administrator and wore mugak-pyeon-gjeong-geon, danryeong, and doa. Gojik, who was in charge of material management, wore god and cheolrik. Seori also wore the same clothes. The king and others participating in the ceremony changed into appropriate attire for the ritual for each procedure. In the preparation process for the Sajik rite, the king wore ikseon-gwanbok and his officials wore sangbok, but in the chinlim-seogye, the king wore wonyu-gwanbok, and the officials of 4 or higher rank wore jobok, those of 5 rank or lower wore sangbok. When the king left the palace to go to Sajikdan, a large procession, daeganobu followed. The king wore wonyu-gwanbok, the civil officials wore jobok, and the military officials wore military uniform. The royal guards wore uniforms according to their duties, such as yungbok and armor. In the process of examining the offerings prior to the ritual, the king and the crown prince wore wonyu-gwanbok, and those in 4th and above wore jobok, those in 5th and below wore sangbok. For the ritual, the king added bangsim-gokryeong to myun-bok, and those who directly performed the rites wore jebok, and other participants in 4th and above wore jobok, those in 5th and below wore sangbok. .

조선전기 왕세자 원유관복의 제정과 시행

최연우 한복문화학회 2022 韓服文化 Vol.25 No.3

Wonyugwan (遠遊冠) was worn by the king, his crown prince, and his grandchildren of the Joseon Dynasty as a Jobok (朝服) when there was an auspicious event in the country. This study examines the establishment and implementation of the Wonyugwan-bok of the crown prince in the early Joseon Dynasty, which has not been studied in detail so far. The changes of the crown prince's Jobok for about 100 years from the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty to the reign of King Jungjong, the time of enactment of the Wonyugwan-bok system, the production and use of the Won-yu-gwan, and the decision maker in the establishment of the system and their philosophical background were defined. The period of the crown prince's Jobok is divided mainly into that of wearing the Yanggwan-bok, the seven-line Wonyugwan-bok, and the eight line Wonyugwan-bok. The seven-line Wonyugwan-bok was settled by the continuous suggestions of Hyo-son Yoon (1431~1503). The proposal started in the King Seongjong period and was first approved by the King Sejo. It was enacted in the 6th year of King Yeonsan-gun (1500), but it was not implemented. Eventually, in the 17th year of King Jungjong's reign (1522), the Wonyugwan of crown prince was produced and used. When the enactment of the crown prince's seven-line Wonyugwan-bok was first discussed in the early Joseon Dynasty, the crown prince's attire was not distinguished from that of his subjects. Accordingly, Hyo-Son Yoon suggested the establishment of the Wonyugwan-bok and tried to recognize the idea of ​​'gwi-gwi (貴貴: Respect the precious person)’. In other words, it is intended to reveal the hierarchy and discrimination between the crown prince, the next monarch, and his servants through attire. .