'Art to Wear'전시에 나타난 국내외 의상의 유형별 분석 연구 -광주비엔날레 국제미술 의상전시회를 중심으로-

유명의 한국일러스아트학회 2010 조형미디어학 Vol.13 No.2

The costume has to developing with the infinite possibilities of expression as representing to aesthetic consciousness and psychology of our contemporaries. It become more important in the culture. Especially, aesthetic movement create various forms of costume and continue to grow in the early 20th century which art included the costume. Since the mid-19th century, 'Aesthetic Movement' propose a new concept of art including costume. people are interested in the phenomenon of ‘Art to Wear Movement' from the late 1960s to 1970s with America as the center. 'The international art to wear' exhibited in the Gwangju biennale for 5 times over the last decade. The interest of 'Art to wear' spread into many related organizations and exhibition was rapidly grow. I was faithful to continuing role in Gwangju biennale 'The international art to wear ' and feel the need to research for the 'The international art to wear' which was representing to movement of the 'Art to wear' on the international stage. In this study, I analyzed into types for the meaning and art works. The exhibition consisted of art work which was emphasized central aspect of the theme and divided in to two types which were wearable and unwearable. The concept of 'Art to wear' was in the main theme of the biennale exhibition. In this research, I found out the relation with development of American or Europe and change of the aesthetic value of a sculpture, symbolism and image by exhibitions. The costume as an art, 'Art to wear' is the art work which take position near human body. It is basically identical with paintings or sculpture to display on the wall and appreciate art. Follow advanced cultural country, costume is one of important product display both in the showcase and art gallery or museum. In Korea, it is our expectation that costume related exhibition will held in the museum and gallery frequently. From this research, I look forward to massive development in field of 'Art to Wear' and to create with specialist and interest for 'Art to Wear'. 현대인들의 미의식과 심리를 반영하는 다양한 표현수단으로서, 문화적 중요성이 더욱 커지고 있는 의상은 무한한 표현의 가능성을 가지고 발전하고 있다. 특히 20세기 초 의상을 포함시켜 이루어졌던 예술분야의 많은 움직임들이 의상을 다양한 형태로 계속 발전시켜왔다고 할 수 있다. 19세기 중반 영국에서 시작된 'Aesthetic Movement'는 의상을 포함한 예술에 대한 새로운 개념을 제시하였고, 1960년대 후반에서 1970년대에는 미국을 중심으로 ‘Art to Wear Movement'현상이 관심을 받게 되었다. 우리나라에서는 순수미술의상행사인 광주비엔날레(1995-현재)에서 ’국제미술의상전시회‘가 10년 동안 5회에 걸쳐 개최된 바 있다. 이를 계기로 예술 의상에 대한 관심이 확산되어 관련단체와 전시회가 급속하게 늘어나게 되었다. 광주비엔날레 ’국제미술의상전시회‘에서 지속적인 역할을 담당해온 본 연구자는 한국에서의 ’Art to Wear'에 대한 관심의 시발점이자 수도권을 중심으로 한 다른 지역, 또 국제무대에서 한국의 ’Art to Wear'의 움직임을 보여준 광주비엔날레 국제미술의상전시회에 대한 연구가 필요하다고 판단되어 그 의미와 출품작품들에 대한 유형별 분석을 하였다. 광주비엔날레 ‘국제미술의상전시회’는 미술행사인 본전시의 주제에 맞추어 의상의 예술적인 측면을 강조한 작품들이 주류를 이루며 Wearable과 Unwearable의상이 함께 전시되었다. Art to Wear의 Item이나, Silhouette, Material은 비엔날레 전시주제와 그 맥락을 같이 하였고 출품된 Art to wear작품의 조형성, 상징성 및 Image에서도 전시 차수에 따른 변화는 물론, 유럽 또는 미국의 예술 의상의 발달과 서로 관련성이 있음을 파악할 수 있었다. 예술로서의 의상, 'Art to wear'는 벽에 걸어놓고 감상하는 회화나 조각 작품처럼 인체와 가장 가까이 위치하는 예술품의 하나로도 볼 수 있었다. 의상도 상품의 진열장에서 뿐 아니라 미술관 또는 박물관에서 전시되는 중요한 예술품의 하나인 문화선진국의 예처럼, 우리나라에서도 앞으로 많이 확충이 될 박물관과 및 갤러리에서 예술의상 관련 전시회가 빈번하게 이루어질 것으로 예견된다. 따라서 이 연구를 계기로 ‘Art to Wear’에 대한 많은 관심과 전문가의 탄생으로 ‘Art to Wear’분야의 더욱 큰 발전을 기대한다.

미술의상에 표현된 오브제 : 광주비엔날레 국제미술의상전을 중심으로

금방란,박민여 경희대학교 생활과학연구소 2002 생활과학논집 Vol.6 No.1

Modern art is often described as a complex art in a sense that each individual art activity does not limit it's boundary to it's own area. A desire to pursue new sense of beauty and a challenge for free style result in an expression of art area. Art to wear is one of those examples; it combines fashion and art. The purpose of this study is to explain the concept of object, The main axis of modern art, and to analyze the object expressed in Art to wear. This will lead us to understand that Art to wear is one of the main stream in modern art and will secure it's demain as one of a pure, unique art area. The scope of the study is limited to 156 art works participated in 1995, 1997 kawang-ju Biennale international Art to wear Exhibition. The meaning and historical development of the concept of the object is studied through literature. Further, all of 156 works was analyzed by materials, form and techniques for case study. The study can be summarized as follows. : Among 156 works, 89 works(57.1%) were classified as expressed object to communicate the artist's theme. And the most frequently used technique were the three-dimensional 'assemblage'. The expression of the concept 'Object' enables modern art to express things in daily life art works. As the characteristics of object in modem art, the object in Art to wear is expressed in variety of models and materials through creative experiments and free expressional style. The Art to wear is pursuing the value of pure art by adopting and applying the concept of object in pure art. Art to wear is expected to greatly contribute to the development of modern art through aggressive work for creation of new art world.

20세기 후반 미국 예술의상운동의 표현적 특성

허정선 한국패션디자인학회 2006 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.6 No.2

의상을 통한 예술적 표현이 극대화된 예술의상의 경우 미술의 양식사적 경향과 같은 맥락을 유지하며 전개되어 왔다. 현대에 이르러 미술 분야는 인간의 몸을 화두로 많은 작업이 이루어지고 있으며 , 예술의상에서도 예외 없이 몸은 생물학적 의미를 초월하여 인간의 정신적 내면을 표현하는 장으로 혹은 대상으로 다루어지고 있다 . 20세기 후반 미국의 예술의상운동에 나타난 표현적 특성을 분석해보고자 하였다 . 이를 통해 예술의상의 표현방식과 표현 형식이 어떻게 전개되었는지 다시 한번 검토해봄으로써 오늘날 예술의상 작품에 어떠한 영향을 주었는지 알아보고자 하였다. , 또는 입을 수 없는 예술에 도전하였고, 인체의 표현에 있어서 동물적 표현이라든가 , 의인화된 사물들의 표현으로 예술적 표현을 극대화시키고 있음을 알 수 있었다 . 또한 일상의 사물들을 다양한 주제로 사용하고 , 일상의 풍경들을 의상에 배치함으로서 의상을 캔버스화한 작품들도 많이 등장하였음을 알 수 있었다 . 또한 저속한 일상의 사물과 표현기법으로 현대의 키치미술이 그대로 적용된 예술의상도 등장하였음을 알 수 있었다 . As contemporary art tends to diverge from its fixed genres and intends to appeal to the public, fashion comes to contribute to the contemporary art area, by playing an important part in the creation of artistic value of art work. Nowadays, it is not unusual to see fashion work shown in an art exhibition parallel with art work, since some artists adopt costumes as the medium of their work in order to explore various means of expression. Art to wear as an artistic expression of clothing has been maintained, developed in close relation to the artistic mode. In modern society, many works on human body in the artistic field have been established as a main subject. Without any exception, fashion art expressed on the basis of human body were the subject and area expressing human's spiritual inside transcending biological meaning. Fashion art as a term originated in 'Art to Wear' started from 'Art to Wear Movement' developed among women textile artists centering around America in the latter half of 1960s. In this study, which is focused on correlation between body and costume and the meaning of them, I realized that, even though artistic costumes expressed image of distortion and deformation of human existence as essential subject of body, they, in most contents, were used as medium of communication to rediscover human dignity and identity, and consisted of a series of metaphoric network of meanings satirizing aspects of our society.

A Study on the Functionalism Expressed in the Art to Wear

Seo, Seung-Mi,Yang, Sook-Hi The Costume Culture Association 2002 Fashion, industry and education Vol.5 No.2

The first purpose of this research is to investigate the functionalistic concept through the general consideration of Functionalism, and to study the art's aesthetic value of functionalistic expressionist artists implication and form in terms of architecture and product design. Secondly, it analyzes the implication and shape of Functionalism towards 'Art to Wear', which can be explained as a mixture of fashion and art. The results are as follows; First, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Mechanical Analogy appears to have futuristic inclination stressing the significance of geometric shapes and machine aesthetics. It uses new materials, and reduce an unnecessary work of art to convey more accurate, concrete and effective character of form. Secondly, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Organic Analogy regards natural elements as important to pursue the warm human nature. Also, it appears to be free and comforting forms of Functionalism through an organic silhouette. Thirdly, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Moral Analogy excludes excessive ornaments, and includes the implication of appropriate and purposive purity which serves for practical function.

20세기 전반기 회화의 한국적 요소를 응용한 의상디자인 연구 : 캐쥬얼 웨어를 중심으로

전현경,송미령 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.3

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear. especially, based on early 27th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, simple and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable for utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression techniques of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casual wear. Key words: early 20th century art, casual wear, korean materials and silhouettes.

신경회로망을 이용한 원격모니터링을 위한 가공공정의 공구마모와 표면조도에 관한 연구

권정희(Jung-Hee Kwon),장우일(U-Il Jang),정성현(Seong Hyun Jeong),김도언(Do-Un Kim),홍대선(Dae Sun Hong) 한국생산제조학회 2012 한국생산제조학회지 Vol.21 No.1

The tool wear and failure in automatic production system directly influences the quality and productivity of a product, thus it is essential to monitor the tool state in real time. For such purpose, an ART2-based remote monitoring system has been developed to predict the appropriate tool change time in accordance with the tool wear, and this study aims to experimently find the relationship between the tool wear and the monitoring signals in cutting processes. Also, the roughness of workpiece according to the wool wear is examined. Here, the tool wear is indirectly monitored by signals from a vibration senor attached to a machining center. and the wear dimension is measured by a microscope at the start, midways and the end of a cutting process. A series of experiments are carried out with various feedrates and spindle speeds, and the results show that the sensor signal properly represents the degree of wear of a tool being used, and the roughnesses measured has direct relation with the tool wear dimension. Thus, it is concluded that the monitoring signals from the vibration sensor can be used as a useful measure for the tool wear monitoring.

A Study on the Relationship Between Feminist Art and Fashion in Modern Chinese Art Era

( Zhang Xing ),( Hosup Kan ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2020 패션 비즈니스 Vol.24 No.6

Feminist artists are special in Chinese modern art. Sticking to their own artistic ideas, they constantly emphasize women's psychological characteristics and aesthetic values in their works under the background of modern society. Since feminism was introduced into China from western arts in the 1970s, it has greatly inspired Chinese female artists. This study used comparative analysis and correlation analysis to establish the connection between the works of local Chinese female artists and modern women's wear design, this connection is the common language form of Chinese female artists and modern fashion designers when expressing female psychology and aesthetics. This is a way for Chinese female artists to seek dialogue with Western and global female art, and the development characteristics of the localization of feminism in Chinese art and design. The significance of the research is to improve the international artistic atmosphere of Chinese feminist art and instill a new understanding of Chinese feminist art in the world.

20 세기 말에 보여진 예술의상이 소재에 관한 연구

강숙녀(Sook Nyeo Kang),김혜정(Hye Jeong Kim) 한국복식학회 1999 服飾 Vol.48 No.-

The construction of an image using all the expressive elements with artist`s human body as a mediun gave birth to a new genre, art wear, on the process of a directional shift from the instrumental concept of life in the established value-view to an expressive ideology. The concept of object on art wear is pursuing the original plastic language of psycholoical plastic space by breaking away from the material-oriented view of object and imposing the value of existence of the objecive world on art wear. It was found that the emergence of object and a new style of expression contribute to the recognition of the context of the work by not only expanding the realm of the expression of diverse materials reilluminating the artist`s own work world and consciousness of plasticity. It was found that art wear put on the domestic costume exhibition is reflecting the artist`s own creative will by means of the free choice materials.

Real time Monitoring System for Prediction of Tool Wear and Failure in Machining Processes Using ART2

Min-Seok Noh,Jung-Hee Kwon,U-il Jang,Dae Sun Hong,Hae Young Jung 제어로봇시스템학회 2009 제어로봇시스템학회 국제학술대회 논문집 Vol.2009 No.8

Until now, a number of cutting tools and cutting methods have been developed for improving the machining processes, however they have some difficulties resulting from tool wear and failure. This study considers on-line monitoring of tool wear and failure in metal cutting processes. The proposed on-line monitoring system consists of two parts: the one is the on-line data acquisition system with sensors and a DSP board through LabView and a web server, and the other is the prediction of tool wear and failure using an ART2 neural network. The system is installed at an on-site machine tool to monitor high speed steel (HSS) tools for cutting titanium alloys. A number of experiments are carried out to demonstrate the effectiveness of the proposed system, and the results show that the proposed system can be applied to monitoring of the tool wear and failure.

종이재료를 활용한 패션조형수업 사례연구

박혜숙 한국기초조형학회 2017 기초조형학연구 Vol.18 No.6

Fashion formative is a sculpture utilizing the human body and is recognized as a work of art regardless of the possibility of wearing. The basic curriculum that can systematically acquire these fashion formative skills is an important program that demonstrates the formative and originality. The system is acquired to teach how to realize concrete works through new design ideas, experimentation of the materials, and new forms of implementations. In addition, as the inter-material area expands and the boundaries between plane and stereoscopic work becomes blurred, contemporary fashion designers and artists are attempting to work on paper that combines paper formative with fashion, also known as paper art wear. Moreover paper can be used not only as a malleable materials to express artistic expressions, but also to construct a three-dimensional form expression through various transformations using numerous merits that can be asserted only by paper. In addition, it can play a role as an expression medium with creative conditions in modern formative art that can embody three - dimensional feeling by lines, planes and materials using various paper formative techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop the basic formative curriculum which is necessary for the students majoring in fashion design to understand the principles of basic molding through several experiments in order to solve the problems by themselves. The following is the summary of the results according to the progressed class contents. First, students of fashion majors are to understand the characteristics of paper materials and envision ideas. Second, students will understand the principles of formative in concept setting, idea confirms and unit developments to use new materials such as tearing, collage, creasing, scissors, burning, punching and weaving using distinct paper substances while acquiring the formality that harmonizes with the human body while focusing on expressing the form. Third, we tried to induce diversity of basic formative programs and wide approach to materials based on the results of these lessons, however, since the satisfaction survey after the class and the improvements were not enough, further study is needed. On the other hand, paper formative work in basic molding education is considered to be a necessary educational method in a timely manner. Through this study, it is expected that it will be utilized as an effective basic formative teaching method in design education. 패션 조형은 인체를 활용한 조형물로써 착용가능성과 상관없이 예술작품으로 가치를 인정받고 있는 분야이다. 이러한 패션 조형 능력을 체계적으로 습득할 수 있는 기초 교육 과정은 조형성과 독창성을 발휘하여 새로운 디자인 발상과 소재의 실험, 그리고 새로운 형태의 구현을 통해 구체적인 작품을 실현해 나가는 방법을 익힐 수 있는 중요한 프로그램이라 할 수 있다. 더욱이 소재간(間) 영역이 확장되고 평면과 입체 작업의 경계가 모호해지는 가운데 현대 패션 디자이너와 아티스트들이 종이조형을 패션에 접목시킨 페이퍼 아트 웨어(paper art wear)작업을 시도하고 있는데, 이는 종이재료가 예술적 표현을 나타내는 조형재료로써의 역할 뿐만 아니라, 종이로만 표현 할 수 있는 여러 장점을 이용하여 다채로운 변형을 통해 3차원적 형태표현을 구성하는 데에도 용이하기 때문이다. 본 연구는 패션디자인을 전공하는 학생들이 조형적 작품을 제작함에 있어 스스로 문제를 해결하기 위해 다양한 실험을 통해 기초 조형의 원리를 파악하는데 필요한 기초조형 교과목 개발을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구의 결과를 정리하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 패션전공 학생들에게 종이재료에 대한 특성을 이해하고 아이디어를 구상하도록 하였다. 둘째, 학생들은 컨셉 설정, 아이디어 컨펌(confirm)과 유닛(unit) 개발 과정에서 조형의 원리를 이해하고 여러 가지 종이 재료를 이용하여 찢기, 콜라주, 주름잡기, 오리기, 태우기, 뚫기, 엮기 등 새로운 재질감과 형태를 표현하는데 중점을 두면서 인체 바디와의 조화를 이루는 조형성을 습득하는 과정을 경험하도록 하였다. 셋째, 이러한 수업의 결과를 바탕으로 기초조형 프로그램의 다양화와 재료에 대한 폭 넓은 접근을 유도하고자 하였으나 수업 이후의 만족도 설문 조사와 개선 사항에 대한 논의가 부족 하였기에 후속 연구가 필요하다 사료된다. 그러나 기초조형 교육에서의 종이 조형 작업은 시기적으로 필요한 교육 방법이라 여겨지며 본 연구를 통하여 디자인교육에 효율적인 기초조형 교수법으로 활용되기를 기대한다.