패션컬렉션에 나타난 메이크업 경향 및 조형성 분석

김은실(Eun Sil Kim),배수정(Soo Jeong Bae) 한국디자인문화학회 2015 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.21 No.2

본 연구에서는 2005 S/S컬렉션부터 2014-2015 F/W 컬렉션까지 10여 년 동안 패션컬렉션에 나타난 메이크업 트렌드를 예술사조와 관련하여 분석함으로써 최근의 유행경향을 파악하고 이를 통해 창의적인 메이크업 디자인을 수행하는데 도움이 되고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법은 2005S/S 패션 컬렉션부터 2014-2015 F/W 패션 컬렉션까지 메이크업을 전공한 박사 3인을 통해 1차적으로 각 예술사조에 해당되는 작품 314장을 선택한 후, 2차적으로 선별하여 총 212장의 사진을 최종 선택하였다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 현대 예술양식에 적용된 대표적인 예술사조는 아르누보, 아르데코, 미래주의, 초현실주의, 옵아트, 팝아트, 포스트모더니즘으로 대표될 수 있었으며, 메이크업에서도 예외가 아니었다. 이에 주로 곡선적인 아이라인과 아이브로우, 화려한 파스텔계열의 색상 사용, 아라베스크 문양 등 식물 문양 등을 이용하여 아르누보적인 요소를 메이크업에 활용하고 있었으며, 직선적인 아이브로우와 아이라인, 대비색상의 배색, 이질적인 요소의 사용 등을 통해 아르데코적인 요소를 메이크업에 활용하고 있었다. 또한 곡선이나 타원형의 형태, 은색과 블루색의 사용, 펄과 스팽글의 사용을 통해 미래주의적인 요소가 보여졌고, 트롱쁘뢰이유(Trompe-l``oeil) 기법을 이용한 선의 활용, 초현실주의 회화작품에서 차용한 색의 사용, 데페이즈망(Depaysement)기법에 의한 종이, 비닐, 레이스 장식의 사용 등으로 초현실주의적인 메이크업이 선보이고 있었다. 팝아트적인 메이크업디자인에 있어서는 상업적인 문화의 대명사인 마릴린 먼로의 트레이드 마크인 점, 곡선적인 아이브로우, 레드와 블랙, 상업적인 화려한 색상 등이 사용되기도 하고, 민속적인 메이크업 디자인에 있어서는 주로 일본풍, 인도풍, 터키풍이 많이 등장하였다. 또한 하위문화 메이크업디자인으로 대표적으로 네오 펑크풍이 많이 등장하고 있음을 알수 있었다. 둘째, 2011년까지는 주로 아르누보, 아르데코, 미래 주의적인 메이크업디자인이 꾸준히 선보여지고 있었으나 그 이후부터는 등장하지 않았고, 옵아트는 최근 10여년 동안 패션 메이크업에서는 거의 보여지지 않았으며, 초현실주의, 팝아트, 포스트모더니즘의 레트로풍, 민속풍, 하위문화풍이 최근 10여년동안 꾸준히 등장했음을 알 수 있었다. 셋째, 이러한 예술양식이 반영된 메이크업 디자인중에 하나의 양식이 반영된 경우도 있으나, 팝아트와 레트로풍, 초현실주의와 레트로풍, 하위 문화풍과 레트로풍 등으로 혼용됨으로써, 혼합 표현되고 있음을 알 수 있었는데, 이는 포스트모더니즘의 혼성모방이나 다원주의적 특성에 기인된 것으로 사료된다. This study analyzes makeup trends found in these fashion collections released in the last ten years from a S/S collection 2005 to an F/W collection 2014-2015 and compares such trends with these other trends in the field of arts. The study then understands recent trends as well and after all, what this study investigates will make a contribution to development of creative makeup designs. As for a research method, with the help of three doctors who specialized in makeup, the study first selected 314 pictures of makeups introduced in these fashion collections from the S/S fashion collection 2005 to the F/W fashion collection 2014-2015, and the makeups there agreed to each of the arts trends. Second, the study determined that of those pictures, only 212 would be used for the final analysis. Results of the research are summarized as follows. First, the most popular contemporary arts trends were said to be art nouveau, art deco, futurism, surrealism, op art, pop art and postmodernism, and the study noticed that the makeup field had the same story. In other words, the collections mentioned above were using these art nouveau factors for makeup, and they preferred curvy eye-lines and eyebrows, stunning pastel colors as well as some forms of arabesques and plants. Art deco was also being applied to makeup, and straight eyebrows and eye-lines, contrary colors and foreign factors were basically favored. Moreover, the study learned that futuristic factors such as curvy or oval shapes, silver color and blue color, pearls and spangles were also accepted by the fashion collections. The collections borrowed a technique called trompe-l``oeil to draw lines and tried these colors used for surrealistic paintings. The study confirmed that the fashion collections were also pleased to present surrealistic makeup with papers, vinyls and laces applied, and such trend in the fashion collections was associated with this particular technique, depaysement. In terms of pop art makeup design, the fashion collections were eager to use this spot of Marilyn Monroe who was a byword for commercial cultures, and the spot was her trademark. Along with the spot, the collections were drawn to curvy eyebrows, red color and black color as well as showy industrial colors. Regarding folk makeup design, the fashion collections presented lots of Japanese, Indian and Turkish trends, and the study also figured out that when it comes to this sub-cultural makeup design, neo-punk was most frequently applied. Secondly, the future-oriented make-up design trends such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco had been consistently shown by the year 2011, however, it has gone since then. The Op Art also has been rarely seen in the fashion make-up field for recent 10 years. On the other hand, the trends, including Surrealism, Pop Art, Retro of Postmodernism, Ethnic Look and Subculture Look have been steadily releasing in the same period. Thirdly, while some cases take only one of the make-up design trends mentioned above, others tend to take multiple trends mixing Pop Art and Retro, Surrealism and Retro, and Subculture Look and Retro. This seems to be based on the mixed imitation or pluralistic characters that postmodernism has.

팝아트의 키치적 요소를 응용한 아트메이크업

김의형 ( Eui-hyoung Kim ),김선형 ( Sun-hyoung Kim ) 한국미용학회 2016 한국미용학회지 Vol.22 No.5

Pop art has played a large part in modern makeup. However, it is difficult to find studies on art makeup to which the characteristics of pop art are applied. In addition, the portion of kitsch is also gradually increasing in popular art and culture. Recently, there has been a rising demand for diverse art makeup through basic core research, rather than conventional art makeup, which has merely appropriated old art pieces as they are. Under the assumption that art makeup is closely related to kitsch elements and displays common techniques, this study attempted to make and analyze art makeup designs based on the kitsch elements of pop art and approach them from an artistic and aesthetic perspective. In fact, the kitsch elements of pop art can represent symbolized objects, the appropriation of daily images, reproduction-based kitsch and paradoxical meaning. The symbolized object breaks the nature of readymade articles which are commonly found in our daily lives and grants them new meaning. As a result, they become valuable as art pieces. In terms of the appropriation of daily routine images, painting and cartoon-style techniques were used in art makeup in a way to maximize the conversion of a solid into a plane, like a face. In the reproduction-based kitsch, new beauty was created in the process of being repeated and reproduced several times. In art makeup, kitsch has been expressed by repeating the same patterns. In terms of paradoxical meaning, the general concept of an object would be deconstructed, or texture effects would be used to suggest the opposite meaning. In art makeup, a new technique instead of an original technique was chosen to prevent the original texture from being felt.

예술로서의 패션 일러스트레이션에 있어 아트 메이크업 일러스트레이션의 활용에 관한 연구

윤계섭 코리아뷰티디자인학회 2008 코리아뷰티디자인학회지 Vol.4 No.3

Contemporary arts show the trend of integration of genres or areas until the boundary between pure arts and practical arts is vague and distinction from popular arts is also meaningless. As today’s science and technology provides new visual forms, they are steadily expanding the areas of contemporary arts. In this situation, contemporary fashions are showing various variations by applying newly developed materials and formative designs. Out of the desire to explore the human body and senses, identity and creative behavior as triggered by the craft movement in the U.S., many artists in the area of textile art are creating works by transforming traditional textile art techniques and applying non-traditional methods. Accordingly, surface materials expressed in the fashion art are forming a new area of expression media that develop and apply innovative techniques with strong texture and laborious handwork. In response to this trend, fashion illustration also came to seek new expressions, and with the change in the concept of contemporary art, it has been developed into an area of art with a variety of expression styles. Today’s fashion illustration has expressed and illuminated contemporary fashions and human images, and has pursued its unique formativeness. As a result, not only in fashion illustration but also in formative art, ‘the human body’ is being applied as the most important component for expressing people’s will for formation as it has been in all ages and countries. Art makeup illustration is also expressing the artist’s subjective sensibility artistically ‘through the human body,’ and therefore, it is partially in an inseparable relation with fashion illustration as an art. In its early days, fashion illustration was a genre picture or a supplementary means of fashion design, but its uses have been diversified and the importance of its artistry has increased. Accordingly, as a new form of expression that represents best the trend of contemporary fashion and conveys fashion images effectively, fashion illustration has expanded its area and evolved into an area of art through its experimental spirit and unique characteristics. In addition, art makeup, which is one of aesthetic instincts, originated from the desires to protect the body, to satisfy religious needs, and to express social standings. At present, it is utilized as art works expressing the inborn appearance gorgeously by applying harmonious colors, and as a means of communication expressing more original and creative designs. This trend is the reason that art makeup illustration should enhance its capacity as an art expressing inner emotions through the artist’s subjective interpretation. In fashion illustration as an area of art, when an integrated image is expressed in the concept of total design, art makeup illustration is a very important component. It is because just the expression of the whole image of fashion through art makeup illustration is enough to achieve the effect of image communication. The objectives of the present study are to classify fashion illustration and art makeup illustration as arts in contemporary art activities, to examine how they are developing, to analyze their homogeneity as formative arts in the expressive function of fashion, and to look for their utilities.

뷰티메이크업과 아트메이크업 이미지에 따른 인지·감성 평가 비교

방효진 ( Hyo Jin Bang ),김정희 ( Jeong Hee Kim ) 한국미용학회 2013 한국미용학회지 Vol.19 No.2

This study aimed to identify the influence of recognition and emotion response to the images of beauty makeup and art makeup in a variety of advertisements. This study has investigated how cognitive and emotional responses are expressed depending on beauty makeup as well as art makeup images. This study also compared the differences between the two responses by type of makeup against a group of college students. The following results were obtained: In cognitive responses, ``Practicality`` are higher evaluation factor in beauty makeup and ``Artistry`` are higher evaluation factor in art makeup. In emotional response, ``Familiarity`` are higher evaluation factor in beauty makeup and ``Ornamentation`` are higher evaluation factor in art makeup. Therefore, there are contrary to each makeup subdivision in the sensitivity. In accordance with the analysis on the difference of recognition and emotion response depending on makeup styles, the important elements in the art makeup were artistic value in recognition response, decorative value in emotion response. For the beauty makeup, the important elements were practicality in recognition response, familiarity in emotion response, dignity. It indicates the difference in evaluation on those two kinds of makeup styles.

쿠사마 야요이(Kusama Yayoi) 작품의 표현 특징을 응용한 아트 메이크업 디자인 연구

신서라,김선형 한국인체미용예술학회 2023 한국인체미용예술학회지 Vol.24 No.1

This study attempted to analyze the expression characteristics of the artworks of Yayoi Kusama who have engaged in art activities actively through collaboration with other fields and suggest art makeup styles. In addition, it aimed to check the usability of such expression characteristics in art makeup and make a contribution to art makeup styling. For this, the characteristics were classified into the repetition of dots and infinity nets and color contrast, and their inner meaning was analyzed with self-obliteration and self-therapy. Based on these facts, a total of 6 art makeup styles were created, and the results found the followings: In Artworks I, II and III, visual interest was encouraged by generating rhythm with repetitive patterns. Such simple pattern was applied as a motive for unique design in art makeup. In Artworks IV, V and VI, obsessive dots and nets were still expressed, but it was able to confirm self-therapy because of the use of diverse colors. The expression characteristics of such artworks - ‘repetition of dots and infinity nets’ and ‘color contrast’ were – applied as diverse motives, and it was confirmed that they are suitable in art makeup. Furthermore, objects used in these artworks played a key role in enhancing their perfection through new expressions, escaping from conventional art makeup. The study results confirmed diverse expression methods and their usability in styling through a combination of artistic values and art makeup. As a result, there should be continued studies with artworks as motives according to recent trends. It is anticipated that such results would be available as a tool to develop unique and creative makeup styles.

뷰티메이크업과 아트메이크업의 특성 비교

방효진(Hyo-Jin Bang),차호연(Ho-Yeon Cha),김정희(Jeong-Hee Kim) 한국인체미용예술학회 2012 한국인체미용예술학회지 Vol.13 No.1

Modern makeup industry area has been extended and it is divided to beauty makeup and art makeup. The practice of makeup tends to be professionally subdivided. So I analyzed the characteristics of beauty makeup and art makeup by remark and awareness of experts group. The results were as follows.: The two makeup subdivisions are characterized by representing methods. The art makeup shows more important technique then beauty makeup. The Design is the most important representing factor to distinguish makeup. To analyze the representing characteristic of each subdivision, the color is the most important factor in beauty makeup and the design is the most important factor in art makeup. The result of submission of actual makeup image also shows the same result. According to the result of two independent subdivisions, there are some difference in ‘contrast’, ‘change’, ‘symmetry’, and ‘consistency’ and there are no difference in ‘harmony’and ‘gradation.’ In sensitivity evaluation, ‘familiarity’ and ‘purity’ are higher evaluation factor in beauty makeup and ‘ornamentation’ and ‘attractiveness’ are higher evaluation factor in art makeup. The design is the most distinguishable representing factor and the result of submission of actual makeup image is the same. In sensitivity evaluation, ‘familiarity’ and ‘purity’ are higher evaluation factor in beauty makeup and ‘ornamentation’ and ‘attractiveness’ are higher evaluation factor in art makeup. Therefore, there are contrary to each makeup subdivision in the sensitivity.

팝아트를 응용한 현대 아트 메이크업의 연구 -2008~2009년 존 갈리아노 패션쇼를 중심으로-

김희선 ( Hee Sun Kim ) 한국미용학회 2009 한국미용학회지 Vol.15 No.3

The rapid advance of organic chemistry developed the color tone makeup along with increasing females social activities. In accordance with this the fashion became more various and trendy and the color tone makeup became the main current. The expression in a fashion show or trend makeup shows diversity and unlimited expression that are completely different from the previous makeup form. These new and diverse tries in the modern makeup can be explained with the concept of pop. The pop art of today changed to an image at appears in the pop culture, a characteristic of the modern industrial society so it is more like to be a name for the new attitude for trendness of the mass art media rather than being an artistic meaning. It can said that it appeared in the generational where modern people`s lifestyle, classical aesthetic consciousness, and absolute value were collapsed. Therefore, the concept of the pop art should be taken as a new makeup theme according to the periodic circumstance. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to observe the origin and concept of the pop art and the modern background where pop art makeup appeared. Based on this, this study is trying to analyze pop art makeup that applied pop art.

초현실주의에 의해 표현된 오브제적 특성을 가진 메이크업에 관한 연구 - 여러 소재를 이용한 현대 메이크업 작품을 중심으로 -

전영현,김주섭 한국피부과학연구원 2009 대한피부미용학회지 Vol.7 No.3

This study is to research on modern art makeup characterized by surrealistic objet d'art expression frequently used in beauty design with a view to helping develop makeup and informing an Art Nouveau, an overlap of beauty and art. For the purpose of the study, literature, books, journals, beauty magazines and other materials on the internet were referred to in order to interpret art makeup based on theoretical study on objets, surrealism and the objet elements in art makeup focusing on modern art makeup. Based on the results from the present study, as art nouveau continuously pursues changes and shapes a variety of ideas and techniques for expression and birth of objets, surrealistic liberal association could express objet techniques in makeup. Further, the shaping could be expressed thanks to diversified materials, leading to variegated makeup to an artistic extent. Conclusively, the results indicated that the objets of surrealism has a considerable influence on the development of makeup. 본 연구는 미와 예술의 중첩인 예술사조의 중요성을 알리고 메이크업의 발전에 도움이 되고자 뷰티디자인에 많이 쓰이는 초현실주의의 오브제적 특성을 가진 현대 메이크업 작품에 대해 연구하고자 한다. 본연구의 방법은 관련된 서적과 논문, 학술지, 미용잡지, 인터넷들의 자료를 통해 현대작품을 중심으로 해석하기위해 초현실주의와 오브제에 관한 이론적 조사와 메이크업 작품으로 오브제적 요소를 파악해 보고자 한다. 본 연구를 통해 본 결과 미술사조가 계속해서 많은 변화를 추구하며 여러 사상과 기법을 조형화하고 표현하게 되면서 오브제가 생겨나게 된 것처럼 초현실주의의 자유로운 연상에 의해 오브제라는 기법을 메이크업에 표현을 할 수 있었다. 그리고 이러한 조형화는 바로 다양한 소재로 인해 표현 될 수 있었으며 메이크업의 다양화로 예술적 영역을 넓혀 메이크업의 발전에 이바지 하였고, 이로서 초현실주의의 오브제는 많은 영향을 끼쳤음을 알 수 있었다.

메이크업 이미지에 따른 시각 반응 평가

방효진,김정희 한국인체미용예술학회 2013 한국인체미용예술학회지 Vol.14 No.2

In modern times, the use of makeup has expanded into advertising. Taking a broad perspective, makeup can be classified into categories of beauty and art. Recently, it has been used for professional purposes. Therefore, this study has attempted to analyze changes in pupil responses and cognitive & emotional responses to beauty makeup and art makeup images and come up with an effective plan in order to enhance the use of makeup in the production of corporate advertisements. For visual and cognitive & emotional responses of a college group to beauty makeup and art makeup images, the visual measurement test was performed and a questionnaire was given. The following results were obtained: When pupil changes were measured after proposing beauty makeup, art makeup and dot image stimuli through slides, vision changes (papillary reaction) were responded to all image types. In particular, the greatest dilatation of the pupil was observed in response to art makeup images. The difference in recognition and emotion response and advertisement attitude elements depending on makeup styles was compared with 20 subjects. The art makeup showed higher scores in artistic value in recognition response, decorative value in emotion response and interest, attentiveness and negativity in advertisement attitudes than beauty makeup.

통합예술을 토대로 조형원리를 적용한 아트메이크업 디자인 분석

안나현 국제문화기술진흥원 2024 The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technolo Vol.10 No.3

아름다워지고자 하는 욕구는 자연스럽게 미적으로 관심이 중시되고 그에 따라 뷰티산업도 크게 성장하고 있다. 그 중 아트메이크업은 색채와 표현을 중심으로 고정된 틀에서 벗어나 독창적이고 실험성이 있는 예술분야로 뷰티영역에서 발전하고 있다. 아트메이크업은 조형원리에 따라 통합예술을 토대로 한 패션, 건축, 미술 등을 모티브로 디자인 발상을 통해 조형원리를 적용한 아트메이크업에 대한 새로운 예술적인 형태 연구가 필요한 분야이다. 조형원리를 균형, 통일, 강조, 리듬으로 분류하여 그의 적용된 통합예술을 토대로 한 실질적 사례를 조경, 건축, 화훼, 회화, 패션, 인테리어로 구분하여 알아보고, 조형원리를 적용한 아트메이크업 디자인 분석하였다. 이에 아트메이크업 분야에서 조형원리를 적용한 메이크업 디자인 형태가 어떻게 적용되고 있는지와 창의적 영역으로의 확대모색과 아트메이크업 발전에 학문적으로 이론적 토대와 기초자료를 제공함으로 새로운 디자인 개발에 기여하고자 한다. The desire to be beautiful naturally focuses on aesthetics, and the beauty industry is growing significantly accordingly. Among them, art makeup is developing in the beauty field as a creative and experimental art field that breaks away from the fixed framework centered on color and expression. Art makeup is a field that requires research on a new artistic form of art makeup that applies formative principles through design ideas based on integrated arts such as fashion, architecture, and art according to formative principles. Formative principles were classified into balance, unity, emphasis, and rhythm, and practical cases based on his applied integrated arts were divided into landscaping, architecture, flowers, painting, fashion, and interior design, and art makeup design using formative principles was analyzed. Accordingly, we aim to contribute to the development of new designs by explaining how makeup design forms that apply formative principles are being applied in the field of art makeup, exploring expansion into creative areas, and providing academic theoretical foundations and basic materials for the development of art makeup.