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      • KCI등재

        1990년대 이후 국내 남성복의 여성화경향

        옥련,이현지 한국의류학회 2004 한국의류학회지 Vol.28 No.2

        The purpose of this study is to analyze how the men's fashion with the representation of Feminization which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1990 though 2003. Firstly, the factor which exposed the representation of Feminization in men's fashion were the change of conventional sex role, the change of ideal beauty, the variety of information, the pursuit of personality and the polycentrism of thought. Secondly, the formative characteristics of Feminization in men's fashion represented fitted silhouettes which distinctively show the body line, elastic fabric and see-through fabric of androgynous image, accessory and wave hair which expressed in gentle image. In colors, it represented vivid tone, pastel tone, red colors and yellow colors. Fitted silhouttes and elastic of change of ideal beauty since 2000. Therefore, elements of representation of Feminization in men's fashion were silhoutte, fabric, color, accessory, hairstyle and the representation of feminity in men's fashion has referance to fashion.

      • KCI등재

        근세 일본 여성의 화장과 발형(髮型) 고찰

        옥련,이행화 한국일본근대학회 2010 일본근대학연구 Vol.0 No.30

        本論文では江戸時代を中心とした近世日本の化粧文化と垂髮文化を時代的状況と共に変化した衣服の形態と関連付けて考察した。化粧文化の形態を調べてみると薄化粧以後、色調化粧として白化粧、黒化粧、赤化粧の三色化粧の傾向が現れるということが分かる。薄化粧の場合は洗顔と美顔水を塗って粉の吸着をしやすいようにし、色調化粧の場合、白化粧は白粉、黒化粧は眉毛と鉄漿、赤化粧は臙脂化粧に分けることができる。頭様式は前髪,髷,髱,鬢の四部分に分けられ、これらは前髪,髷,髱,鬢の順で変形しながら発達した。前期には実用的なスタイルを追求する武家階級の要求によって、髪を徐々に縛ってあげるようになり、多様な髪上げの形態が普及し、中期は髱よりは耳下の鬢が長く出てきて流行した。これは体形に合うように作られた小袖と当時多く描かれたやせたスタイルの美人像に似合う髪型を研究したあげく、出てきたスタイルのようである。後期は鬢が消えて、再び髷が流行し、以前の髷より固く縛り、見えないように固定したシンプルなアップスタイルをしているのが特徴である。このような変化は文明開化とともに西洋文化が日本人たちに流入して起った変化ということができる。

      • KCI등재
      • KCI등재

        한,일 여자예복에 나타난 장생문 비교고찰

        옥련,조선희,김소정 한국일본근대학회 2015 일본근대학연구 Vol.0 No.50

        본 논문에서는 근세 한·일 여자예복에 나타난 장생문양을 비교 고찰하였다. 그 결과 양국의 여자예복에 공통적으로 나타난 장생문양은 학·나비·매화·구름·바위·수파문 등이다. 학문은 조선시대 흉배의 주문양으로 날아다니는 형태였으며 에도시대의 학문은 날아다니거나 바위 위를 노니는 등 다양한 모습으로 표현하였다. 나비문은 양국의 예복에서 날아다니는 형태로 다양한 색상으로 아름답게 나타났으며, 매화문은 5개의 꽃잎이 묘사된 형태로 표현했다. 구름문은 주로 바탕문양으로 사용된 것을 볼 수 있다. 바위문은 기암괴석의 형태로 예복의 하단에 표현하는 경우가 대부분이었으며 수파문은 조선시대에는 반원형의 오색물결의 표현이 많고 에도시대에는 흐르는 유수형태가 주로 나타난다. 조선시대 여자예복에만 주로 나타난 문양은 불로초·복숭아·산·수·복문 등이다. 불로초문은 학이 물고 있는 형태로 나타나며 산문은 삼산형태로 보·흉배·예복의 하단에 수파문의 중심에 위치하는 경우가 많다. 수·복문은 주로 금박, 금직으로 규칙적인 배열로 나타난다. 에도시대 여자예복에만 주로 나타난 문양은 거북·소나무·대나무·국화·귤문 등이 있다. 거북문은 거북문양과 기하학적인 귀갑문으로 나타난다. 소나무·대나무문은 송죽매로 묶어 함께 표현한 경우가 많았으며 국화·귤문은 아기자기하게 장식하여 표현하였다. This study compared and contemplated the longevity patterns appearing on the formal dresses of modern age ladies in Korea and Japan. According to the study result, the common longevity patterns appearing on the formal dresses of ladies in Korea and Japan are; crane pattern, butterfly pattern, ume flower pattern, cloud pattern, rock pattern and wave pattern. The flying crane pattern was the main pattern at the embroidered patch at breast and back during the Joseon dynasty. The crane pattern during the Edo age was in various forms including flying cranes or cranes taking a stroll on the rock. The flying butterfly pattern in beautiful multicolor was used in the formal dresses of the two countries; while the ume flower pattern was described in the form of five petals. The cloud pattern was mostly used as the base pattern. The rock pattern was mostly used in the lower end of the formal dress in the form of oddly formed rocks and strangely shaped stones. The wave pattern was expressed in semicircular five-color waves during the Joseon dynasty; while it was mostly expressed in the form of flowing water during the Edo age. The elixir plant pattern, peach pattern, mountain pattern, longevity (壽) pattern and good fortune (福) pattern appear only on the formal dress of Joseon age ladies. A crane holds elixir plant in its beak in the elixir plant pattern. The three mountains pattern is located in the center of wave pattern at the lower end of the ‘bo’, ‘hyungbae’ or formal dress. The longevity (壽) pattern and good fortune (福) pattern are expressed in gilt or gilt fabric with regular arrangement. The turtle pattern, pine tree pattern, bamboo pattern, chrysanthemum pattern and tangerine pattern appear only on the formal dress of Edo age ladies. The turtle pattern is expressed both as turtle pattern and geometric hexagonal pattern. The pine tree pattern and bamboo pattern mostly have pine tree, bamboo and ume flower altogether. The chrysanthemum pattern and tangerine pattern are expressed harmoniously.

      • KCI등재

        일본 소수 (小袖) 에 나타난 문양 분석

        옥련,이행화 한국의류산업학회 1999 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.1 No.1

        The study has examined about the origin and change of traditional Japancese dress Kosode and classified it according to its ages and also classified its patterns which appeared on the Kosode by its kinds, and divide the patterns with constituent method and expressional method and so, studied and analyzed them with type of patterns according to the change of the times. The result of research were as follows: 1. Subject of patterns that appeared on the Kosode was used with mainly plant pattern, animals pattern, pictorial pattern, artificial pattern, and abstract patterns. 2. Expressional method of this patterns was mostly expressed simply with tie dyeing in ancient times, but it changed complex its expressional method and diversely due to the development of common`s culture as time goes on. 3. For the arrangement of its pattern were arranged regularly mostly make demarcate and though they are as if seemed dispersed, but a characteristic that can find regulations in it. 4. Transition of patterns that appeared on the Kosode it developed at the beginning of ancient syouboon, Katasuso pattern and Katamigaori patterns at the samurai`s society in the medieval society and developed to Koicho kosode and Kambun kosode in modern times.

      • KCI등재
      • 20대와 50대 여성의 하반신에 대한 인식과 형태에 관한 연구

        옥련,이영주 慶星大學校 1998 論文集 Vol.19 No.1

        Through the recognition and the satisfaction of the lower part of the women body in 20s' and 50s' we studied 303 respondents of the women to analyze what lower part shape they want. The results are as follows. 1. The recognition of the lower Part showed certain degrees of differences in thigh girth, calf girth, crotch length, weight, and stature according to the age. 2. The female of the 50s showed higher satisfaction of their lower part considering that of the 20s. 3. The cluster analysis of the lower part shape of the 20s and 50s was classified into 5 types.

      • KCI등재

        그린소비자의 환경친화적 의류소비행동에 관한 연구

        옥련 한국자료분석학회 2007 Journal of the Korean Data Analysis Society Vol.9 No.3

        The purpose of this study is to examine the effect on the environment-friendly clothing consumption behavior of green consumers. The findings of the study was as follows.1. Three factors were derived to consumer value orientation that is related with environmental issues: socially altruistic value orientation, economic value orientation, and egocentric value orientation. Five factors were developed to clothing benefits sought: social acknowledgement pursuit, fashion pursuit, brand pursuit, individuality pursuit, and comfort pursuit. 2. Economic value orientation had a positive effect on environment-friendly clothing buying behavior; on the other hand, environment-friendly clothing buying behavior had a positive effect on environment-friendly clothing management behavior and clothing disposal behavior.3. Economic value orientation and individuality pursuit had a positive effect on environment-friendly clothing management behavior; on the other hand, environment-friendly clothing management behavior had a positive effect on environment-friendly clothing buying behavior and clothing disposal behavior.4. Egocentric value orientation had a negative effect on environment-friendly clothing disposal behavior, social acknowledgement pursuit had a positive effect on environment- friendly clothing disposal behavior; on the other hand environment-friendly clothing disposal behavior had a positive effect on environment-friendly clothing management behavior. 본 연구는 그린소비자의 환경친화적 의류소비행동 간의 영향력을 살펴보면, 첫째, 가치로는 사회이타적 가치, 경제적 가치, 자기중심적 가치의 3가지 요인으로 도출되었으며, 의복추구혜택으로는 사회적 인정 추구, 유행 추구, 브랜드 추구, 개성 추구, 편안함 추구의 5가지 요인이 도출되었다. 둘째, 환경친화적 의류구매행동은 경제적 가치로부터 직접적으로 정(+)의 영향을 받았으며, 환경친화적 의류처분행동과 환경친화적 의류관리행동에는 정(+)의 영향을 미쳤다. 즉 환경친화적 의류를 잘 구매하는 소비자들은 환경보호에 있어 경제적 보상을 중요하게 생각함을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 환경친화적 의류관리행동은 편안함 추구, 환경친화적 의류구매행동과 환경친화적 의류처분행동으로부터 정(+)의 영향을 받았다. 즉, 의복선택시 편안함과 실용성을 선호하는 소비자일수록 환경오염을 줄이기 위한 의류세탁이나 관리행동을 잘 실천하고 있음을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 환경친화적 의류처분행동은 사회적 인정 추구로부터 정(+)의 영향을 받았으며, 환경친화적 의류관리행동에 정(+)의 영향을 미쳤다. 즉, 의복을 통해 사회적으로 인정받기를 원하는 성향이 강한 소비자일수록 의복을 처분함에 있어 분리수거나 재활용행동 등을 잘 실천함을 알 수 있다.

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