다중초점화상기법(多重焦點畵像技法)을 적용(適用)한 면섬유광택분석(綿纖維光澤分析) 및 면직물(綿織物)의 광택(光澤)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)

문선혜 ( Sun Hye Mun ),김종준 ( Jong Jun Kim ),전동원 ( Dong Won Jeon ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2003 패션 비즈니스 Vol.7 No.5

Surface properties, including the texture and the luster, of cotton fibers and yarns thereof play an important role in textile technology. The convolutions and the cross-sectional shape of the cotton fiber affect the fabric texture and the luster accordingly. Mercerization of the cotton fabric affects the luster, strength, and other properties of the fabric. In this study, the effect of mercerization was examined on the luster of the cotton fabric, together with the effect of polishing treatment. One of the traditional methods determining the fabric luster is the use of glossmeter or goniometric glossmeter. The use of glossmeter gives successful results in determining the gloss of rather flat and continuous surface such as plastic sheet, painted surface, or paper products. Since the textile fabrics have diverse surface structures and textures, these could be regarded as having three-dimensional surface. Such complexity imposes some difficulties for differentiating subtle surface luster properties of diverse textile fabrics. The advancement in the area of imaging technologies has enabled the micro-scale analysis of the surface textures and the fabric luster recently. Using a CCD camera, the surface luster images were taken at various incident illumination conditions. Microscale analysis, including the blob analysis, of the images could differentiate the subtle luster properties present in a group of cotton fabric samples comprising mercerized cotton fabric, non-mercerized cotton fabric, polished cotton fabric, and a ``standard`` cotton fabric. The glossmeter measurement gave satisfactory but limited differentiation among the samples, whose luster differences are easily recognizable with visual observation, except for the mercerized cotton fabric sample and the non-mercerized cotton fabric. The microscale analysis of the fabric luster could, therefore, help understand the nature of diverse textile fabric luster.

경남 통영 해수양식진주의 광택에 대한 광물학적 연구

조현구 ( Hyen Goo Cho ),김순오 ( Soon Oh Kim ),도진영 ( Jin Young Do ) 한국광물학회 2015 광물과 암석 (J.Miner.Soc.Korea) Vol.28 No.1

통영산 해수양식진주를 광택과 모양에 따라 광택이 좋고 둥근(LR; Luster Round) 진주, 광택이 나쁘고 둥근(LLR; LackLuster Round) 진주, 바로크(LLB; LackLuster Baroque) 진주, 이핵(LTN Lackluster Two Nucleus) 진주로 세분하여 비중 측정, 현미경관찰, X선 회절분석, 주사전자현미경관찰 등을 통해 진주의 광택에 영향을 미치는 요인에 대한 광물학적 연구를 수행하였다. 광택이 좋은 진주는 광택이 나쁜 진주에 비해 비중이 약간 낮았지만 모두 상업적인 진주의 비중 내에 포함된다. 진주층 단면의 두께는 광택이 좋고 둥근 진주는 0.3 mm 정도로 균질한 반면, 광택이 나쁘고 둥근 진주는 각각의 진주층 두께는 균일하나 광택이 좋고 둥근 진주에 비해 두께가 얇다. 이핵 진주와 바로크 진주는 한 진주 내에서도 진주층 두께 편차가 상당히 큰 경향을 보였다. 진주의 표면은 광택이 좋은 진주가 광택이 나쁜 진주에 비해 아라고나이트 결정의 성장선이 좁고 선명하다. 광택이 좋은 진주는 광택이 좋지 않은 진주보다 아라고나이트 결정층의 결함이 적으며 배열이 평행하며 두께가 더 얇고, 표면과 내부에서 두께 차이가 작다. 능주층이 있는 경우 능주층과 진주층에서 아라고나이트 이외에 방해석이 포함되며, 광택이 나쁜 경우 방해석 함량이 매우 높다. 능주층이 없는 진주에서는 광택 여부에 상관없이 방해석이 없고 모두 아라고나이트로 구성되어 있다. A mineralogical analysis on the factors affecting the luster of pearls was carried out using gravity measurement, optical microscope observation, X-ray diffraction analysis, and scanning electron microscopy. We divided the seawater cultured pearls from Tongyeong into the following four types based on luster and shape; good luster and round (LR), lackluster and round (LLR), lackluster and baroque (LLB), and lackluster and two nucleus (LTN) pearls. Pearls with high-quality luster had slightly lower specific gravity as compared to pearls with low-quality luster, but both these types of pearls are within the specific gravity range of commercial pearls. Regarding the cross-sectional thickness of the mother-of-pearl layer, LR pearls showed a uniform thickness of about 0.3 mm in average. On the other hand, LLR pearls were characterized by relatively thinner, but uniform thickness. LTN and LLB pearls showed a tendency of significantly large variation in thickness even within a single pearl. For the surface of pearls, pearls with high-quality luster showed narrower and clearer growth lines of aragonite crystals as compared to pearls with low-quality luster. Pearls with high-quality luster were characterized by fewer aragonite crystal lattice defects as compared to pearls with low-quality luster, and the former showed parallel arrangement, thinner thickness, and less difference in thickness on the surface and inside. If a pearl has a prismatic layer, it is composed of aragonite with calcite in the prismatic and nacreous layer, and calcite content is very high in the lackluster pearl. Pearls without a prismatic layer were devoid of calcite irrespective of their quality of luster, and were composed of aragonite.

Image Analysis of Luster Images of Woven Fabrics and Yarn Bundle Simulation in the Weave -Cotton, Silk, and Velvet Fabrics-

( Jong Jun Kim ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2002 패션 비즈니스 Vol.6 No.6

The attractiveness of the textile fabrics are generally judged by visual or tactile evaluation methods. Since the surface of the textile materials are so diverse that the visual factors such as optical properties or luster of the fabrics are not easily measurable. While most of the cotton fabrics are not so much lustrous, calendering process could impart the cotton fabric better luster. Also, the general grade silk-like polyester fabrics resemble silk fabric with some limit in terms of luster properties. One of the interesting fabrics showing subdued luster is the velvet fabrics with dark shade. In this study, the luster related properties are examined using some image analysis methods. Yarn models based on the fabric weave types were developed to further investigate the effect of fabric crimp shapes due to weave on the optical properties or luster of the fabrics.

식힘 온도에 의한 질산은 금 러스터 유약 연구

손지웅 한국도자학회 2023 한국도자학연구 Vol.20 No.3

도예는 일반적으로 고화도 유약을 사용한 청자와 백자 같은 자기질의 실용성과 심미성이 있는 도자기를 중심으로 발전하였다. 그러나 중동에서 시작된 페르시안 도자기인 러스터 유약은 금속성 광택의황금빛 발색 유약으로, 타일이나 도자기 그릇에 표현되었고, 발전하였다. 러스터 도자는 다양한 색상과고급 진 금속성 광택은 고화도 자기가 표현 할 수 없는 부분을 표현 할 수 있으라 생각한다. 본 연구는 러스터 유약을 대표하는 질산은을 활용한 황금색 유약을 체계적으로 연구하고 규명하고자 한다. 아울러 러스터 도자기의 이해를 돕기 위해 러스터의 역사와 작품들에 대하여 분석하고, 질산은의 사용상 유의점도 알아보았다. 유약 조성 내에 포함된 질산은이 냉각 온도와 시간의 변화에 따른변화를 명도, 색상을 수치화하여 측정 분석하였다. 특히 질산은의 함량과 재 가열 시간에 따라 재 소성 만으로도 다양한 발색이 가능하며, 금을 사용하지 않고, 소성법에 따라서 금 발색이 가능함을 연구하였다. 기본 유약에 질산은 1%(LG1), 질산은 2%(LG2), 질산은 3%(LG3), 질산은 4%(LG4)를 함유한 유약을 1050℃까지 산화소성 후, 500℃부터 50℃간격으로 950℃까지 각 온도별로 1시간, 2시간, 3시간 3 회 재 가열 환원 소성하여 120개의 시편을 COLOR METER TES-135A를 이용하여 색을 측정하고 발색을 분석하였다. 본 연구의 발색 변화는 3가지 영역으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째는 500℃∼550℃구간으로 주로 노란색과 갈색이며, 유조는 투명이며, 명도는 비교적 밝게 나타났으나 질산은 함량에 따라 투명유에서 실투유가 되었다. 두 번째로는 600℃∼750℃의 발색은 황금색에 가까운 발색과 광택을 내는 구간으로써, 이 범위에 해당하는 색상은 노란색에서 회청색이 함유된 갈색의 범위이며, 가장 황금색에 가까운 발색의 시편은 750℃ 1시간 소성 LG1 시편으로 보인다. 유질은 광택이 많은 실투유이다. 세 번째로는 800 ℃∼950℃ 구간으로, 청회색에서 온도대가 올라갈 수록 검은 회색이 되며, 광택이 전혀 없는 유질로변하였다. 800℃색상의 특징은 질산은이 증가한 경우 진주색상이 표면에 나타났고, 명도는 밝아졌으며, 주로 탁한 청색과 탁한 진주색이 나타났다. 900℃∼950℃의 발색은 회색과 회백색이며, 광택이 전혀없는 발색이 나타났다. 본 연구를 통하여, 황금색상은 질산은 1%에 환원반응 1시간 700-750℃구간에서 황금색에 가까운 발색을 하였고, 냉각온도와 반응시간에 따라 다양한 발색을 얻을 수 있음을 알게 되었다. 그리고 이러한연구의 결과가 현대 도예의 표현 확장에 기여하기를 바란다. Ceramic glazes, centered on oriental high-definition glazes, made and developed pottery with practicality and aesthetics, such as celadon and white porcelain. Along with this, Luster glaze, a Persian pottery that originated in the Middle East, is a golden-colored glaze with a metallic luster, and has been expressed on tiles or ceramic vessels. We will systematically study and identify the golden glaze using silver nitrate, which is still unfamiliar in Korea. In addition, in order to help understand Luster pottery, which is not well known at present, the history and works of Luster were analyzed, and the points to be noted in the use of silver nitrate used in this study were also investigated. In this study, the silver nitrate contained in the glaze composition was measured and analyzed by quantifying the change in brightness and color according to the cooling temperature and time. In particular, it was studied that various colors can be developed only by re-firing depending on the content of silver nitrate and reheating time, and that it is possible to develop a golden color according to the firing method without using gold. After oxidizing the glaze containing 1% silver nitrate (LG1), 2% silver nitrate (LG2), 3% silver nitrate (LG3), and 4% silver nitrate (LG4) in the basic glaze up to 1050℃, 950℃ at 500℃ intervals from 500℃ 1 hour, 2 hours, and 3 hours at each temperature up to ℃, 120 specimens were reheated and reduced three times, and the color was measured using COLOR METER TES-135A, and the color development was analyzed. The color change in this study can be divided into three areas. The first is between 500℃ and 550℃, which is mainly yellow and brown. The oil bath is transparent and the brightness is relatively bright. It became a loss of milk. Second, the color development at 600℃~750℃ is a section that produces color development and gloss close to golden yellow, and the color corresponding to this range ranges from yellow to grayish blue brown. It looks like a LG1 specimen fired for 1 hour at ℃. The oil quality is a devitrifying oil with a lot of gloss. Third, in the range of 800℃ to 950℃ it became black gray as the temperature range increased from bluish gray, and it changed to an oily quality with no luster. As for the characteristics of the color at 800℃, when silver nitrate was increased, pearl color appeared on the surface, brightness became brighter, and mainly cloudy blue and cloudy pearl color appeared. The color development at 900℃ to 950℃. was gray and grayish white, and color development without gloss was observed. Through this study, it was found that the golden color developed close to golden color in the range of 700-750℃ for 1 hour of reduction reaction with 1% silver nitrate, and that various colors could be obtained depending on the cooling temperature and reaction time.

12~14세기 이란 카샨 製 도기의 銘文

마쓰야 도모코(?屋友子),박소현(번역자) 한국미술연구소 2010 美術史論壇 Vol.- No.30

The use of Arabic epigraphy is one of the characteristic features of Islamic art. Especially various types of pottery produced at Kashan, a town in Central Iran, from the twelfth to fourteenth centuries, including those with luxurious decorative techniques such as luster-painted wares and mina’i wares among others, are heavily inscribed. The contents of the inscriptions are important clues to understand the pottery production in Kashan. The inscriptions can be divided into the informative section with a date and a signature of the potter and the main text of the inscription. Although the informative section is crucial for dating the objects, it is not necessarily included in the inscription because they are used to fill the space after finishing the main text. The informative inscriptions may provide paternal relationship of the potters as well as criteria to search forged inscriptions. The contents of the main texts are either religious or secular. Since the religious inscriptions are never applied on vessels, they are found only on tiles. The religious tiles are originally from Shi’ite mausolea because the Kashan potters were devoted to the Shi’ite faith. The tiles bear quotations from the Qur’ an or from a hadith. The secular inscriptions include blessings for anonymous owners of the vessels in Arabic or quotations of Persian poetry. It is not always easy to decipher the inscriptions due to the positions and directions of their letters. Therefore, the inscriptions might not to be read precisely but to signify a certain message by their existence on pottery.

Image Analysis of the Luster of Fabrics with Modified Cross-section Fibers

Shin Kyung In,Kim Seong Hun,Kim Jong Jun The Korean Fiber Society 2005 Fibers and polymers Vol.6 No.1

We have investigated the luster of modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics as one of the essential quality estimates for clothing development. We have confirmed an objective evaluation method, and have determined the experimental luster char­acteristics of modified cross-section fibers. The cross-section of the fibers in a fabric affects the appearance of a textile. We used the image analysis method to investigate the luster to determine the critical factors influencing the appearance of modi­fied cross-section fiber fabrics. For similarly structured textiles in a component fabric, clear differences were observed in the fabric weave, density, percentage, and total area of blobs, which is image region. Color played a decisive role in the luster of the textiles, and luster was not significantly influenced by the modified cross-section fabric weave. In addition, the degree of luster did not increase in the order plain to twill to satin for modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics. All the split-type microfi­bers exhibited higher numerical luster values (percentage of pixels, and number and total area of blobs) than sea-island microfibers did. The degree of luster of the modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics was not high at specular reflection angles.

Characterization of Luster Properties of Nylon 6 Hollow Filament Yarn Woven Fabric -Three-dimensional Simulation of Hollow Filament-

( Jong Jun Kim ),( Dong Won Jeon ),( Jee Hae Jeon ) 한국패션비즈니스학회 2004 패션 비즈니스 Vol.8 No.6

Hollow filament yarns provide better warmth to the touch, lighter in weight, increased opacity, and subtle luster compared to the regular synthetic filament yarns. However, luster properties of textile fibers or fabrics are often difficult to characterize, partly due to the fineness of the surface texture, the anisotropic nature of the weave structure, the complexity of the fiber array comprising a yarn, and the fiber structure itself. In this study, the fabric surface luster image was analyzed using image analysis methods after image acquisition. The hollow filament fiber was modeled using a three-dimensional modeling software. It was then ray-traced for comparing the virtual luster images of the hollow fiber and the regular fiber models based on shading models including photon mapping. The luster object size of the actual hollow filament fabric was smaller than that of the regular filament fabric. The shape of the luster object of the hollow filament fabric was dual peak type while that of the regular filament was single.

실크 직물의 외관특성 변화의 평가에 대한 연구

김종준 이화여자대학교 생활환경대학 인간생활환경연구소 2002 인간생활환경연구소 논집 Vol.- No.1

Woven silk fabrics have long been regarded as high quality value-added textile materials because of their elegant appearance and soft hand. The cross-sections of the silk fibers vary in shape and size even if the common shape is trilobal in general. The pleasing appearance and hand of the silk fabrics have been attributed to the natural irregularity of silk fibers having longitudinal micro-scale crimps and randomly twisted or distorted ridges. The luster, one of the appearance characteristics, has been measured using the glossmeter methods for plastics sheets or painted surfaces. Since the textile surfaces are not as flat as the sheets, they impose difficulties to identify the luster characteristics. With the introduction of image acquisition and analysis methods to the textile sectors, various attempts have been made to delve into the characterization of the luster quality of the textile fabrics on top of the traditional luster quantity that has been successful with the traditional glossmeter methods. In this study, silk fabric specimens were degummed for 5 and 30 minutes to compare with commercial counterpart. Luster objects, or blobs, on the fabric images were analyzed via the image analysis software after required image processing. Together with the image analysis of the luster, an attempt was made to build a partial three-dimensional model of the silk fiber with random twist and micro-crimp. The number of blobs and the size distribution of the blobs in the fabric images could provide some quantitative explanation of the elegant luster of the silk fabrics.

1990년대 남성복 소재에 나타난 조형성에 관한 연구

이효진,류근영 복식문화학회 2000 服飾文化硏究 Vol.8 No.6

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men's fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.

직물광택의 변각촬영 이미지에 대한 분석적 연구 : Analysis of Images Acquired at Various Observing Angles

김종준,신경인 한국의류학회 2002 한국의류학회지 Vol.26 No.8

This paper is on the luster property of textile fabric materials which is one of the important factors related to the development of clothing materials leading to the value-added products. Using several image analysis techniques, the optical properties, especially luster related ones, of the commercially available fabrics were measured and analyzed. The fabric samples included 6 lands of preliminary experimental fabrics along with 22 lands of fabric which were commercially available. The images acquired at various observing angles are taken by 44 points and these pictures are analyzed into luster through the image analysis program. The preliminary experiment demonstrated the effect of weave types and the number of yam twist on the luster of the fabrics through the use of the image analysis program.