AHP를 이용한 지속가능한 도시개발지표의 중요도 평가

이경미(Lee, Kyung-Mi),정재호(Chung, Jae-ho) 한국부동산정책학회 2013 不動産政策硏究 Vol.14 No.2

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the weight of sustainable urban planning indicators for social-cultural, economical and environmental sustainability with the Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) analysis method. In addition, it is also to propose improvement plan and long-term development direction of domestic new cities by the weight evaluation of sustainable urban planning indicators. The main analysis result of this study is as follows; First, in the top factors analysed by AHP method, weight of the social-cultural and economical sustainability were higher than environmental sustainability. Weight of the medium factors of the social-cultural and environmental sustainability showed that all weight values are high and minor differences. However, weight of the economic sustainability relatively showed large differences. Weight of bottom factors showed higher values in the items of the preservation of historical and cultural heritage, age-income social mix and generation-size mix in social-cultural sustainability, in the items of facilities for self-sufficiency, subway transportation network and establishment of regional industry foundation in economical sustainability, and in the items of development of proper density, use of solar energy, expansion of park and green spaces in environmental sustainability. Second, through the analysed results of the compound weights and its priorities, almost of bottom factors were ranked higher in economic and social-cultural sustainability and almost of the bottom factors of environmental sustainability were ranked lower.

지속가능성이 반영된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인 속성에 관한 연구

엄경희,엄태경 한국디자인문화학회 2019 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.25 No.1

The sharp change in production method after the industrial revolution involves large-scale production, consumption, and disposal and it is causing environmental pollution. In response, various fields are paying attention to ‘Sustainability’. The definition of sustainability is satisfying the current demand while not threatening the things necessary for future generation and seeking co-existence between human and nature, harmony of development and preservation, and balance between current generation and future generation. Although products applied with sustainability are produced in surface product design field, various products satisfying the customer needs are necessary. Thus, this study conducted investigation and analysis on property of indoor space surface product design reflecting sustainability to suggest directions for development of sustainable indoor space surface product design. Also, this study aimed on suggesting the utilization method as the reference for development of surface product design. For research method, this study carried out analysis on preceding researches, literature review, and Internet material for a theoretical consideration on concept of sustainability, examples of indoor space surface product design applied with sustainability, and design property. For the research, this study conducted basic statistics analysis and Likert Scale for an online survey and the result was derived by utilizing Excel. The study was conducted based on the results of 182 questionnaires surveyed for a total of 7 days from November 29, 2018 to December 5, 2018. In order to analyze the attributes of the surface design of interior space that occupies a large portion of the human activity area, we divided the three attributes of sustainability into environmental, economical, and social characteristics. In addition, we examined the three most important attributes of aesthetic, functional, and symbolic attributes in product design attributes. The survey result was as follows. When selecting the indoor space surface product design applied with sustainability, subjects prioritized ‘environmental feature’ followed up by economic feasibility and sociality among the elements of sustainability. In design property, the subjects prioritized ‘function’ followed up by ‘esthetic feature’ and ‘symbolism’. In addition, among the 182 survey subjects, 104 subjects showed high interest in indoor space surface product design applied with sustainability while 124 subjects considered about changing to indoor space surface product design within 3 years. For elements considered in selecting the indoor space surface product design applied with sustainability, the subjects prioritized design followed up by quality, rise in space value, and sustainability. In conclusion, this study hopes the survey result to contribute in developing indoor space surface product design emphasizing environmental feature and functionality. In addition, as the customers show high interest in sustainability, the development and branding of indoor space surface product design applied with sustainability will be the chance for strengthening the company’s design competitiveness and creating the new market in related industry. 산업혁명 이후 급속한 생산방식의 변화는 대량으로생산, 소비, 폐기하는 구조로서 지구의 자원의 고갈과환경의 오염을 야기함에 따라 다양한 분야에서 ‘지속가능성’에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있는 실정이다. 지속가능성이란 미래 세대의 필요한 것들을 위협하지 않으면서 현재의 필요를 채우는 것이며 인간과 자연의공생, 개발과 보전의 조화, 현 세대와 미래 세대 간의형평을 추구하는 것이라고 정의 되며, 서피스제품디자인 분야도 많은 지속가능성이 적용된 제품이 생산되고 있지만, 소비자 니즈에 맞는 다양한 제품이 필요한실정이다. 이에 본 연구는 지속가능성이 반영된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인 속성에 관하여 조사 분석하여지속가능성 실내공간 서피스제품디자인 개발 방향을제시함으로서 서피스제품디자인 개발 시 참고 자료로활용방법을 제시함을 목적에 두었다. 연구방법은 지속가능성의 개념과 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인 사례, 디자인 속성등의 이론적 고찰을 위하여 선행연구 분석과 문헌조사, 인터넷 자료조사를 실시하였다. 연구를 위해 기초통계분석과 리커트 척도를 사용하여 온라인 설문조사를 진행하였고 엑셀을 활용하여 결과를 도출하였다. 연구범위로는 2018년 11월 29일부터 12월 5일까지 총7일간 조사되어진 182명의 설문조사 결과를 바탕으로연구하였다. 인간의 활동영역 중 큰 비중을 차지하는실내공간의 서피스제품디자인에 대한 속성을 분석하기 위하여 지속가능성의 3가지 속성인 환경성, 경제성, 사회성으로 나누어 각 속성의 특성 중 가장 중요하게 생각하는 요인을 알아보았으며, 제품디자인의 속성에서도 심미성, 기능성, 상징성 세가지 속성 중 가장 중요하게 생각하는 요인을 알아보았다. 그 결과 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인을 선택할 시 지속가능성의 요인 중 ‘환경성’을 가장 중요하게 생각하며, 경제성과 사회성을 그 다음으로 중요하게 생각하는 것으로 조사되었다. 또한, 디자인 속성중 ‘기능성’을 가장 중요하게 생각하며, 뒤이어 ‘심미성’을 중요하게 여겼으며 다음으로 ‘상징성’을 중요하게 생각하는 것으로 조사되었다. 더불어 조사대상자182명 중 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인에 관심이 많은 조사대상자는 104명, 향후 3년이내 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인으로 변화를 고려하는 조사대상자는 124명으로 조사되었으며 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인 선택 시 가장 고려하는 요인으로는 디자인, 품질, 공간의 가치상승, 지속가능성의 여부 순으로 조사되었다. 그러므로 설문조사 결과에 의하여 향후 지속가능성이 적용된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인이 환경성을 강조하며 기능성이 갖춰진 서피스제품디자인 개발이 활성화된다면 기업 디자인 경쟁력 강화와 관련 산업의새로운 시장을 창출할 수 있는 계기가 될 것이다. 더불어 지속가능성에 대한 소비자의 관심이 매우 높으므로 지속가능성이 반영된 실내공간 서피스제품디자인을 새롭게 개발하고 제품을 브랜드 화 한다면 기업매출 증대에 도움을 줄 수 있다고 사료된다.

물환경 서비스와 물 인프라의 지속가능성 평가 사업(Ⅷ)

한혜진,김호정,류재나,이병국,김수빈,신정우 한국환경연구원 2021 사업보고서 Vol.2021 No.-

Ⅰ. 연구의 배경 및 목적 □ 연구 배경 ○ 경제발전 과정에서 단기간에 많은 상·하수도 기반시설(인프라)이 건설되어 인프라의 노후화 도래 시기가 다가오고 있음 - 비교적 나중에 건설된 공공하수도시설도 약 31.2%가 법적 내용연수를 초과 ○ 철도, 발전시설 등에 비해 상·하수도 시설, 특히 지자체가 관리하는 시설의 유지관리 및 노후화 대비는 미흡함 □ 연구 목적 ○ 본 연구의 목적은 물환경 서비스 수준과 물 인프라 관리에 관한 데이터를 확보하여 기초지자체별로 물환경 서비스·인프라 관리의 지속가능성을 평가·분석하는 것임 - 지자체별로 물환경 서비스·인프라의 지속가능성 정보를 온라인 시스템을 통해 제공하며, 서비스에 대한 질적 수준 관리 등 앞으로의 물관리 정책 방안을 제언 Ⅱ. 물환경 서비스·인프라의 지속가능성 평가 결과 □ 지속가능성 평가 체계 ○ 2017년에 마련한 물환경 서비스·인프라의 지속가능성 평가체계에 따라 가장 최신의 가용 자료인 2019년 자료를 토대로 경제·사회·환경 부문별 지속가능성을 평가 - (경제) 재정 건전성, 서비스 비용 분담 수준 및 자산관리 정도를 평가 - (사회) 서비스 보급의 사회적 공평성, 서비스 품질의 지역 간 형평성 및 사회적 수용성을 평가 - (환경) 환경부하관리, 수생태계 연결성 및 다양성 및 물 사용량을 평가 □ 2019년 지속가능성 평가 결과 ○ 경제 부문에서는 지자체 규모가 작을수록 지속가능성이 낮게 나타남 - 군 단위 지자체는 자본수입비율, 상수도 중앙정부 지원액 비율, 상수도 지방비 비율, 하수도 부채비율 등의 지표가 낮았음 ○ 사회 부문에서 상하수도 서비스 보급 지표는 지자체의 규모가 클수록 양호했지만, 서비스 품질에 관한 지표는 노후화 시설이 많은 특·광역시에서 낮게 나타남 - 군 그룹의 소득 대비 상수도 요금 수준이 특·광역시나 시 그룹보다 높았음 ○ 환경 부문에서는 발생 원단위가 큰 축산계 오염원이 주로 농촌 지역에 분포해 있으므로 군 단위 그룹의 오염부하배출량이 특·광역시나 시 그룹보다 현저하게 높았음 - 공공하수처리율은 모든 그룹의 지자체가 전반적으로 양호한 수준이었음 □ 2015~2019년 지속가능성 평가 결과 추이 ○ 경제 부문의 지속가능성 지표는 대부분 큰 변화가 없었으며, 지자체 규모에 따라 평가 결과의 격차가 지속됨 - 상하수도 부채비율은 완만하게 감소하고 있지만 총사업비 대비 요금, 원인자부담금 등 자본수입의 비율은 상하수도와 하수도 모두 2017년을 기점으로 감소 - 낮은 요금 현실화율이 개선되지 않는 상황에서 코로나19 사태 장기화로 상하수도 요금 감면액이 늘어난다면 사업의 경영지표는 더욱 악화될 것으로 우려됨 ○ 사회 부문의 지표 중 시설 보급과 관련된 지표에서 지자체 규모에 따른 격차는 줄어들고 있지만, 상하수도 민원에 대한 지표는 악화 - 지자체 규모에 따른 급수보급률, 하수관로보급률 등 상하수도시설 지표의 격차는 줄어들고 있었지만, 취수장·정수장 등 상수도시설의 노후화율이 급속히 상승 - 상하수도 서비스 민원에 대한 지표는 특정 시기에 몇 개 지자체에서 발생한 사고에 따라 차이가 크게 나타남 ○ 환경 부문에서는 지표의 특성상 다섯 해 동안 뚜렷한 변화한 항목은 없었음 - T-P 배출부하량, BOD 공공하수처리율 그리고 하천수질 지표는 기간에 따라 크게 변화하지 않았음 - BOD 배출부하량은 연도별로 편차가 컸는데 국가승인통계에서 얻어지는 다른 지표에 비해 자료의 안정성이 부족하기 때문으로 판단됨 Ⅲ. 상수도 서비스의 질적 수준 분석 □ 상수도 서비스의 질적 수준 설문 결과 ○ 일반 국민이 체감하는 서비스의 질적 수준에 대한 설문조사 결과, 물환경 및 상·하수도 서비스의 인지도나 중요성과 비교해 서비스의 만족도는 낮은 수준이었음 ○ 응답자가 체감하는 현재의 수돗물 수질은 국내외 수질기준을 만족하는 수준보다는 높지만 수돗물 특유의 냄새가 없는 수준에는 다다르지 못함 - 앞으로는 현재보다 한 단계 높은, 수돗물 특유의 냄새가 없는 수준에서 생수처럼 맛과 냄새가 좋은 수준의 사이로 수돗물 수질이 개선되기를 기대함 ○ 대부분 응답자는 수돗물 공급이 중단되었을 때 반나절 이내에 급수가 재개되기를 희망하였음 - 사전에 예고된 단수들은 대부분 반나절 내에 급수가 재개되었으므로, 관건은 공사 중 사고나 재난·재해로 발생하는 예기치 못한 단수를 관리하는 것임 □ 상수도 서비스 개선에 대한 지불의사 분석 결과 ○ 조건부가치측정법(CVM)으로 지불의사를 분석한 결과, 수돗물 수질을 개선하는 것에는 수돗물 1m³당 273.1원, 수돗물 단수를 예방하여 공급 안정성을 높이는 것에는 1m³당 264.9원, 단수 발생 시 기대 수준만큼 급수가 신속하게 재개되는 것에는 1m³당 200.4원의 추가적인 지불의사를 보였음 - 이를 가구당 지불의사로 환산하면 수돗물 수질 개선, 수돗물 단수 예방, 단수 발생 시 신속한 급수 재개에 대해 각각 매월 3,561원, 3,454원, 2,613원을 추가로 지불하는 것에 해당함 ○ 수질 안전성과 공급 안정성 모두 상수도 서비스의 중요도 및 만족도에 대해 높게 응답한 경우에 지불의사액이 높았음 Ⅳ. 연구 성과의 확산 방안 □ 상하수도 운영 효율성 비교·분석 ○ 지속가능성 평가 데이터와 자료포락분석(data envelopment analysis) 방법을 이용하여 지자체별로 상수도 사업의 운영 효율성을 비교·분석하는 방법을 제시함 - 특·광역시를 제외한 154개 시·군의 2016~2019년 패널데이터를 이용하여 투입변수(직원 수, 영업비용)와 산출변수(급수보급률, 유수율, GIS 구축, 급수수익, 수도관 연장)를 분석하였음 - 상수도사업의 효율성은 증가하고 있지만 효율성 수준 자체는 낮았으며, 규모효율성 보다 순수기술효율성이 낮아 상수도사업의 운영 효율성이 부족한 것으로 나타남 ○ 지속가능성 지표의 시계열 자료를 이용하여 지자체별 상수도사업의 효율성 분석, 효율성이 우수한 지자체(벤치마크)의 선정, 효율성에 영향을 미치는 세부 요인 분석 등의 후속 연구를 진행할 수 있음 □ 지속가능성 평가 지표의 활용 방안 ○ 본 연구의 지속가능성 평가 지표는 물환경 서비스·인프라 수준의 중·장기적인 추세를 분석하는 데 쓸 수 있음 - 지속가능성 지표의 추이를 분석하여 현 시점에서 드러나는 물환경 서비스·인프라와 관련된 문제나 쟁점이 과거 어느 시점부터 진행되었는지를 파악할 수 있을 것임 ○ 국내에서는 국민 체감형 지표, 차세대 물관리 지표 등 국가 계획에서 검토했던 새로운 지표를 마련하는 데 본 연구 결과를 활용할 수 있음 ○ 국제적으로는 물·위생에 관한 지속가능발전목표(SDG 6) 중 국내에서 측정되지 않은 지표의 산정 방법을 개발하는 데 본 연구 결과를 활용할 수 있음 Ⅴ. 결론 및 정책 제언 ○ 2015~2019년 기간 지자체 규모에 따른 경제 부문의 지속가능성 지표의 격차가 지속되고 있음 - 시설 보급과 관련된 지표에서 지자체 규모에 따른 격차는 줄어들고 있지만, 상하수도 민원에 대한 지표는 나빠지고 있음 - 군 단위 지자체는 향후 상수도 요금의 현실화 과정에서 주민의 지불 능력(affordability) 문제를 유의해야 함 ○ 일반 시민이 생각하는 물환경 및 상·하수도 서비스의 인지도나 중요성과 비교해 시민들이 체감하는 서비스의 만족도는 낮은 수준이었음 - 수질 안전성과 공급 안정성에 대한 지불의사액은 상수도 서비스의 중요도·만족도와 상관성이 높으므로, 상수도 서비스의 중요도·만족도를 높이는 것이 중요함 ○ 다음 해에도 2020년 자료를 이용해 올해와 같은 방법으로 지속가능성 평가 지표를 산정하고 함의를 분석하는 작업을 수행할 것임 - 설문조사 데이터를 공유하는 방안을 비롯해 올해 연구에서 제안한 연구 성과 활용 방안에 대한 구체적인 방안을 마련하며, 연구 결과의 정책 활용 및 관련된 후속 연구 주제에 대한 탐색도 진행할 계획임 Ⅰ. Research Background and Objectives ○ The waterworks and sewerage structures, which have been extensively constructed since the 1970s and the 1990s, respectively, in Korea, will reach the end of their design life in the near future. The management of old and tired structures has become a significant concern in other social overhead capitals such as railroad, highway, and power plants. The aging issue is still to come in the water sector, but the water infrastructures, especially the ones managed by local governments (municipalities), are less prepared for tackling aging problems. ○ In order to bring attention to the aging water infrastructures, authors have assessed the sustainability of the water services and water infrastructures in each municipality since 2014. The assessment results are provided on the Web site (http://wwrd.kei.re.kr/) and is accessible by the public. New water policy strategies or directions such as asset management systems or customers’(residents’) experience management are also reviewed. Ⅱ. Assessment Results of the Sustainability of Water Services and Water Infrastructures □ The Framework of Sustainability Assessment ○ In 2017, a framework to assess the sustainability of water services and water infrastructures for each municipality was established. The framework includes three pillars - economic, social, and environmental sustainability. For economic sustainability, financial sustainability, cost allocation, and level of assessment management of water services and its management were evaluated. For social sustainability, the fairness of the water service supply, the equity of the service quality, and the social acceptance were assessed. Finally, the pollution loads, ecosystem connectivity and diversity, and water consumption level were evaluated for the environmental aspect. □ Sustainability of water services and water infrastructures in 2019 ○ The economic sustainability was low for the small-scale municipalities (‘Gun’). One of the reasons was that these small municipalities heavily depend on the subsidy from the national government. For social sustainability, the Metropolitan cities show the higher level of water service supply. However, the service quality in the Metropolitan cities is relatively low as they have more aged water infrastructures than small or midsize municipalities. For environmental sustainability, the pollutant loads in small municipalities are much greater than others, as the livestock farming is concentrated in rural areas. On the other hand, the domestic sewage is adequately collected, treated, and discharged to public waters in all municipality groups. □ Sustainability trends from 2015 to 2019 ○ Most economic indicators stay unchanged from 2015 to ’19년 and the sustainability gap among municipality groups held steady. It should be noted that the share of income from capital such as utility fee or connection fees has decreased since 2017. As the current utility fee cannot cover the supply cost of water and sewage service, the reduction of water and sewage fees during the COVID pandemic can further deteriorate the financial soundness of water services. ○ In social sector, the gap of service coverage between municipalities decreased over time. However, the aging rate of drinking water facilities is rapidly increasing across the municipalities. The indicators on service complaints significantly varied with municipalities as the complaints occurred in certain municipalities over certain years. ○ The environmental indicators including the pollution loads of total phosphorus, the ratio of treated sewage, and ambient water quality did not change significantly. It is worth noticing that the data of pollution loads, which were not officially published statistics but collected by in-house efforts, lacked data stability. Ⅲ. Qualitative Level of Water Supply Service □ Survey results on the level of water service ○ Compared to the respondents’ high awareness on water services and the perception of the importance of the water services, the satisfaction rate on water service was relatively low. ○ The respondents felt that tap water in Korea is safe to drink since it meets both international and domestic drinking water standards, but they still complain the distinctive taste and odor of tap water. They expect that the quality will be improved to the level where such taste and odor are not detected and tap water provides a similar experience with bottled mineral water. ○ Most respondents expect that tap water supply interruption should be solved within half a day. Since the interruption with advance notice is mostly settled within half a day, the interruption caused by unexpected disasters or accidents will be a significant matter. □ Willingness to pay for improving water supply service ○ The willingness to pay for improving water supply service, which was measured by contingent valuation method, was 273.1, 264.9, and 200.4 Korean Won (KRW) per 1 ㎥ of tap water for improving the safety level, preventing the service interruption, and reducing the service interruption intervals, respectively. Considering the average family size and household water consumption, those amounts are equivalent to 3,561, 3,454, and 2,613 KRW per month per household. Ⅳ. Dissemination of Research Outcomes □ Performance review of municipalities’ water services ○ Authors proposed the performance review method of municipalities’ water services by using the Data Envelopment Analysis methodology and the collected data in this study. Two input variables (number of staff and operating expense) and four output variables (water supply coverage, revenue water ratio, GIS mapping coverage, and water pipe length) of 154 small- and mid-scale municipalities are determined from the panel data from 2016 to ’19년. The result indicates that the efficiency of water service has been increasing. The absolute efficiency level, however, is low, and the deficiency in the operation efficiency is significant. ○ It is considered that the data collected in this study can be used for the performance review or for developing a benchmarking program of municipalities’ waterworks and sewerage services. □ Utilization of the sustainability index ○ The sustainability index of this study can be used in the trend analysis of the level of water services. It can help identify the issues in water service and water infrastructures and track the outbreak points of certain problems. The framework and methodology of the sustainable index can be used as a reference in developing new indicators on the public’s experience of water services or the sub-indicators of the sustainable development goal on water and sanitation (SDG 6). Ⅴ. Conclusions ○ The gap in the economic sustainability indexes between the municipalities of different sizes lasted from 2015 to ’19년. For social sustainability, the indicators on service coverage and facility installation have been improved. The economic and social indicators imply that the small municipalities should improve the cost recovery ratio in water and sewage services, taking the affordability issue into consideration at the same time. Respondents with higher awareness on the importance of water services showed a greater willingness to pay for projects to improve water services. ○ While water environment, water supply, and sewage services are regarded as important issues by the public, their satisfaction level of water services was relatively low. It indicates that citizens’ awareness and satisfaction level of water services are a significant matter in water policy. ○ Authors will continue to carry out the sustainable assessment of water service and water infrastructures with updated data and will propose the ways to disseminate the research results.

섬유,패션기업의 지속가능성 실천 평가 연구

신혜영 ( Hye Young Syn ),금기숙 ( Key Sook Geum ) 한국의류학회 2014 한국의류학회지 Vol.38 No.2

The practice of sustainability is an important subject to integrate into management, product planning, manufacturing by textile and fashion companies as well as consumption by end-users. This study shows an evaluation scale designed to assess the practical cases in order to suggest efficient and systematic methods to fulfill the practice of sustainability in textile and fashion companies. First, companies should practice en-vironmental sustainability to use eco-friendly material and cleaner production, protect the environment, andsave natural resources. Second, social sustainnability is required to fulfill social responsibility and ethical needs. Third, companies should perform various innovative activities, transparency in management, fair competition and economic contribution in the local community in order to maintain economic sustainability to survive in industry. Finally, cultural sustainability should be fulfilled by textile and fashion companies as part of the intellectual-cultural industry in a way that increases the improtance of ethnic and cultural diversity. Textile and fashion companies should fulfill four environmental, social, and economic cultural sustainable subjects in a balanced method to accomplish sustainability. The concerns and practices of envir-onmental sustainability are comparatively highly rated due to the analysis of the evaluation scale. How-ever, cultural sustainability (a need of the times) is poorly rated and needs more attention. Therefore, the evaluation scale can be used as a standard tool to fulfill the sustainability of companies and brands from the viewpoint of improving poor and insufficiently sustainable items as well as balancing sustainability manage-ment.

INTEGRATING SUSTAINABILITY IN LUXURY FASHION SUPPLY NETWORKS: AN EMPIRICAL INVESTIGATION OF LEATHER AND SILK

Hakan Karaosman,Patsy Perry,Alessandro Brun,Gustavo Morales-Alonso 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2017 Global Fashion Management Conference Vol.2017 No.07

State of the Art: Sustainability Integration in the Luxury Fashion Industry Introduction to Luxury Fashion ‘Luxury’, which comes from the Latin word ‘luxus’, refers to exaggerated life, glamour, comfort and wealth (Dubois, Czellar & Laurent, 2005). In the ancient world, luxury was associated with wealth, exclusivity, and power. After the 17th century, European countries’ economic democratization contributed to the reduction of existing sumptuary laws. Trade increased and larger segments of the population began to afford luxury products. Consequently, luxury moved from being limited to serve the common good to being a satisfaction of private needs. At the end of the 19th century, following the second industrial revolution, luxury earned its modern meaning of being enjoyable beyond the necessities of life (Fionda and Moore, 2009). The democratization of luxury resulted in mass luxury in which luxury brands have extended themselves to affordable offerings (Cristini et al., 2017). Luxury was long associated with the premium quality (Brun and Castelli, 2013), whereas today the technical reproduction of luxury is indulged by mass-produced brands (Cristini et al, 2017). Thus, one could argue that commercial drivers have taken over the industry whereby executives are increasingly seeking ways to transform creativity into profitability. Accordingly, the luxury market has experienced noticeable growth. The global luxury goods market reached a value of € 1.081B, with a growth rate of 4%, in 2016 (Bain & Company, 2016). Nevertheless, despite growth and high profit margins, the global fashion market is affected by macroeconomic, socio-political and natural events. For example, the short-term doubling in cotton prices brought many problems in 2011. Furthermore, scarce natural resources and rising commodity prices greatly challenge the ability of luxury fashion companies to remain profitable. The new luxury paradigm of being more accessible challenges not only sustainability but also operational aspects. The reputation of the luxury industry suffers from consumer concerns over poor labour standards in production, blood diamonds, irresponsible gold-mining practices and animal cruelty in global production networks (Hennigs et al, 2013; Moore, 2011). We therefore question how and to what extent luxury could play a positive role in our mass-consuming generation to slow down the pace for materialism and to better implement sustainability in globally dispersed production networks. Whilst sociologists, marketing and branding experts, have shown interest in luxury management, researchers in the field of operations and supply chain management have paid little attention to the topic: the first paper in the field appeared less than a decade ago (Brun et al., 2008), and furthermore, as of January 2017, there appear to be only 87 papers published in Scopus-indexed journals with ‘‘supply chain OR oper*’’ AND ‘’luxury’’ in the keywords. Henceforth, the current financial, environmental, economic and cultural crises could be considered significant drivers for how luxury operations could be advanced in the move toward sustainability. The focus of this paper is luxury personal goods such as fashion and accessories. The Relevance of Sustainability for Luxury Fashion Following the supply chain revolution of the 1990’s (Mohanty and Prakash, 2013) and the removal of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005, the fashion industry has become a global force in production and distribution. Globalisation has led to increasing outsourcing of production by fashion companies to a network of suppliers and subcontractors. The industry is characterized by shorter product life cycles and highly volatile market demand (Choi, 2013) alongside downward price pressure, international sourcing, high product variety and low predictability (Perry and Towers, 2013). To this end, fashion companies rely on sophisticated information and logistics systems to remain competitive in the market. Nonetheless, the fashion industry is somewhat inflexible toward major external changes outside the organizations’ direct control (Kozlowski et al., 2015). There is also a potential conflict between corporate responsibility and overarching commercial pressures in the fashion industry (Perry et al., 2015). According to the definition of sustainable development by The United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED, 1987), current needs should be met without endangering future generations’ rights to satisfy theirs. Luxury fashion companies must therefore acknowledging resource scarcity and other sustainability issues, and take collective actions for an authentic shift to create unique and sustainable businesses. To be profitable and sustainable, “luxury companies must adjust their definition of excellence that is no longer associated with shallow glamour but with positive engagement and deeper values” (Hennigs et al, 2013, p.33). An Overview of Sustainable Supply Chain Management (SSCM) Sustainability in SCM has captured academics’ interest since the early 1990s. Despite the growing interest, some fundamental issues still need to be addressed to provide novel models. The majority of the practices that make up green supply chain management (GSCM) models are modifications of existing practices (Pagell and Wu, 2009). However, earlier studies also stress that these programs might not be sufficient to become sustainable. Hence, it would be insightful to examine which components and which practices are required to make ‘sustainable’ chains. Social sustainability also requires deeper consideration. Wu and Pagell (2011) investigated how organizations deal with short-term pressures to remain economically viable during sustainability implementation, but did not consider social aspects of sustainability. Lee and Klassen (2008) identified the important drivers and enablers which promote environmental management capabilities in SME suppliers, but did not address social sustainability or specific measures for suppliers’ environmental management capabilities. Zhu and Cote (2004) and Vachon and Klassen (2006) demonstrated how to extend green practices, but again social aspects were not encompassed. Similarly, Caniato et al (2012) identified drivers that push companies to adopt green practices, various practices that could be used to advance environmental sustainability and environmental performance indicators measured by fashion companies. However, the social component was excluded. The recognition of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as a business activity is highlighted by the launch of ISO 26000; nonetheless, as illustrated earlier, extant SCM literature has mostly neglected the social aspects of sustainability. Despite a number of studies on aspects including social responsibility and consumer trust (Castaldo et al., 2008), sustainability reporting (Lozano and Huisingh, 2011), sustainable supply management (Ageron, Gunasekaran, & Spalanzani, 2012), and supplier selection problems (Jia et al., 2015), social issues demand more investigation (Perry and Towers, 2013). Sustaining an efficient global supply chain without compromising social responsibility (Perry et al., 2015). Embedding social and environmental management into SCM is needed yet challenging. Significant progress has been made in studies of the buyer-supplier relationship over the past decades, however despite some notable exceptions on green SCM (Zhu and Cote 2004; Zhu et al. 2008; Yu et al. 2014), the development of SSCM literature appears to focus on a single entity rather than the entire chain or network. Social and environmental performance of suppliers is an area of mounting concern, and collectively, sufficient coordination between supply chain partners is greatly needed. Many small and medium-sized suppliers encounter challenges in responding to environmental pressures due to limited capabilities and available resources (Lee and Klassen, 2008), and the most critical environmental and social issues in supply chains are generated by suppliers located in the second tier or further upstream (Tachizawa and Wong, 2014). Therefore, a holistic examination of the entire chain is required. In this vein, Pagell and Wu (2009) examined the chain as an entirety by explicitly addressing both environmental and social outcomes and by asking what unique behavioural patterns are needed for SSCM. However, the adoption of some of the practices is quite limited, which suggests the existence of additional contingencies. Their study called for future studies to explore the role of specific industries e.g. textiles. To this end, Ho and Choi (2012) investigated why fashion companies go green and evaluated sustainable supply chains. Nevertheless, the study was a single case study and did not consider potential differences in terms of antecedents affecting small and large companies. Curwen et al. (2013), interestingly, sought to document current challenges the fashion and apparel industry faces while developing sustainable apparel. Yet again, an imperative need arises to further explore the connections among product design, production processes and supply chain stages through a multidisciplinary approach. On the whole, the phenomena of sustainability has been interpreted in a variety of ways, ranging from a philosophical perspective to business management approaches (Ahi and Searcy, 2013), but more research is needed to show more than how to be ‘less unsustainable’. Traditional business research must go beyond studies focusing on profit with a rather short-term orientation and instead embrace components of how to create truly sustainable businesses. Considering the aforementioned gaps observed in the extant literature, the following research questions were formulated to investigate the phenomena of social and environmental sustainability at supply chain level within the luxury context, where ethical aspects are becoming increasingly critical for success (Brun and Castelli, 2013). RQ1: How do luxury fashion companies integrate sustainability into their supply networks? RQ2: How do contingent factors impact sustainability integration in luxury fashion supply networks? RQ3: Which behavioural patterns could be used to develop a sustainable supply chain configuration for the luxury fashion industry? Research Methodology Data was drawn from case studies of two Italian supply chains producing luxury silk and leather goods, encompassing 10 companies, with a focus on the individual supply chain as the level of analysis. These two supply chain were theoretically sampled to provide diversity in organizational characteristics and supply network relationships that could explain different approaches to the integration of sustainability into the entire chain. The research design followed Yin (1994) and previous studies in operations and SCM. Face to face interviews were conducted with senior managers of different functions in each supply chain during 2015-16. In most of the companies, responsibility for sustainability was divided and integrated into the jobs of multiple managers, meaning that there was no single individual assigned to sustainability. Additionally, the managers interviewed were often in charge of one or more functions, which helped reduce the number of interviews but increased interview content. The interview topic guide was developed from the literature review, and the theoretical constructs underpinning the interview protocol were then used to create an initial coding scheme for data. Data analysis was done inductively, by developing a framework from the cases while exploiting the theoretical concepts in the categorization of codes. The coding process was followed for all cases as an iterative process to assure consistency. Coding was not considered complete until a consensus was reached on each construct. Data analysis involved within and cross-case analysis. Results: Toward a Framework for Sustainable Luxury Supply Chains This study explored the luxury fashion industry from supply chain and operations management standpoint. Findings revealed seven key categories by which luxury fashion companies integrated environmental and social sustainability into their operations: Category 1: Sustainable product design, Category 2: Operations management, Category 3: Performance measurement, Category 4: Sourcing management, Category 5: Decent work and labour management, Category 6: Commitment to sustainability and organisational perceptions and Category 7: Longevity of suppliers. Firstly, natural resource scarcity was acknowledged by all 10 companies. To this end, some practices, including use of eco-friendly materials, hazardous chemical elimination, textile waste reuse, were applied to the fashion design stage with an attempt to mitigate the environmental impact of subsequent operations. Life cycle assessment (LCA was observed to be a significant tool among sample companies. Nonetheless, higher investment costs to employ more innovative solutions and to advance laboratory tests, higher prices for more ecological materials, and lack of knowledge in terms of fibre and textile components due to supply chain complexity prevented companies from advancing product stewardship. Regarding operations management, water emerged as a significant area where sample companies implemented incremental techniques, including natural tanning, on-site wastewater treatment, water purification and water reuse. Nevertheless, vertical integration, which was getting weaker in the luxury fashion industry, resulted in fashion companies having difficulties in the execution of their suppliers’ environmental performance. Practices implemented in this category were individual company attempts rather than collective action plans. It was not quite feasible to mitigate the environmental impact of independent networks where the buying firm outsourced its business functions to third party suppliers. In order to deal with lack of control and monitoring, sustainability must be understood as a concept to be integrated into the core business strategy with measurable indicators. Furthermore, traceability emerged as a pivotal topic. However, the complexity of global luxury fashion supply chains brought complications. Both supply chains showed that there was lack of knowledge about products’ production history. Due to globalization, countries with low operational costs appeared to leverage their competitive advantage. Changing market conditions resulted in the loss of, for example, silk production in Italy. Silkworm cultivation did not take place in Italy any longer, resulting in confusion regarding outsourced materials’ environmental and social records. High product variety and fragmentation of the production network made it difficult for companies to ensure full traceability. To this end, trust and knowledge transfer were weak, which could be improved to link non-economic goals with financial objectives. Another interesting result was that supplier audits were mostly made within first tier direct suppliers’ facilities. In some cases suppliers were provided with online self-assessment tools that were monitored by buying firms. Yet, buying firms and manufacturers required more efficient inspection methods and more realistic mitigation strategies. Ensuring social sustainability is hindered by complications such as lack of visibility and financial burdens. Consequently, technical and motivational dynamic capability development needed to be proactively initiated by focal companies. As stressed by earlier studies, sustainability must be a shared effort within all functions of a company and across its supply network. Sustainability could be disseminated across the chain only when all supply chain actors, including retailers, suppliers and sub-contractors, connect, understand and collaborate with each other. Correspondingly, it became clear that sustainability management required strong organizational commitment for which an alignment between financial and non-financial goals was greatly required. Hence, education and training activities received growing attention. In conclusion, the sample companies asked their supply chain partners to become sustainable for two main reasons, (i) to make the chain stronger, and (ii) to jointly learn and improve performance. Long-term relationships and supplier stability, as evidenced in the leather supply chains, could cultivate trust, which would result in advanced organizational and operational performance improvements. Supplier engagement and collaboration associated with knowledge dissemination could further enable companies to improve sustainability, and lastly innovation capabilities were imperative.

Seeking a Better Place : Sustainability in the CPG Industry

Molly Inhofe Rapert,Christopher Newman,Seong-Yeon Park,Eun Mi Lee 한국마케팅과학회 2010 마케팅과학연구 Vol.20 No.2

“?我?而言,成?一名??的公民和一?成功的事?之??有??......他??今天的沃??是完全一?的。”Lee Scott, 沃??的CEO在2005年?崔琳娜????之后(Esty and Winston 2006) Lee Scott的?明?志着可持??展的一?新的?代。作?一?被全球生?商和零?商所?注的全世界最大?模的??商??了他?的可持??展的意?。近十年?,?保??不?增?,??展到全世界。公司已??生,?品已被?造,??期刊已?展?,政府已?承?――所有?一切都在追求可持??展(Peattie and Crane 2005)。?然?展的?比一些人渴望的慢了一些,但是?多大?模的??商已???保做出了可持??展的努力。?了更好的理解????我?同?提供高管和消?者??的有包?的消?品??的角度。?硏究依?于三??在主?:(1)?念和?据表明,公司??多理由?行可持??展(2)在有包?的消?品行?中,可持??展活?的?量在持?增?(3),因此,必?探索可持??展在消?者意?中起的作用。根据?些主?,143名大?生和101名企?高管?加了?????一系列的有?可持??展的?量包括愿意支付,行?意?,?度和偏好。?果?示高?管理者相信可持??展的三?最主要的原因是(1)盈利能力的机?;(2)以????境的??;(3)??客和股???。大?生的三大原因:(1)??境的?任;(2)?子?后代??,和(3):一?有效的管理?源。?然企?高管和大?生?支持可持??展的理由不同,但是企?高管和消?者的?告?示了?剩下大部分的可持??展??的相似性。?外,?我?要求消?者去??6?????的重要性?(??保健、??、?育、犯罪、政府支出、和?境),保??境?排在第四位 (Carlson 2005)。?6???都被??是重要的,三?最重要的是(1)改善?育;(2)本地?的???展,以及(3)?生保健。?了可持??展的持?性,我?也??期?果。反映社?、企?利益表?的新定?和?行期的延?同?被揭示出?(Ehrenfeld 2005; Hitchcock and Willard 2006)。基于文?我???了三?基本范?的?果:(1)改??成的?意度,(2)分化的机?,以及(3)金融??。在每一?分?中, 我????可持??展活?中?致11?不同?果的??特定的?果。我?的???果表明,最有可能的?果最高的前五?依序?公司的可持??展追求的是:(1)?色的消?者??更令人?意;(2)公司形象?更好,(3)公司的?任?得到加强,(4)?降低能源成本;(5)?品??更多的?新。?外,?更好的理解消?者的?境“身?”和在市???中愿意?示出??“身?”的有趣的交集,我??展了以前Experian Research(2008) 的硏究。因此,受?者分?四?不同?型的?色消?者(行??色,想法?色,? For us, there is virtually no distinction between being a responsible citizen and a successful business… they are one and the same for Wal-Mart today.” ~ Lee Scott, Wal-Mart CEO after the 2005 Katrina disaster; cited in Green to Gold (Esty and Winston 2006). Lee Scott’s statement signaled a new era in sustainability as manufacturers and retailers around the globe watched the world’s largest mass merchandiser confirm its intentions with respect to sustainability. For decades, the environmental movement has grown, slowly bleeding over into the corporate world. Companies have been born, products have been created, academic journals have been launched, and government initiatives have been undertaken ? all in the pursuit of sustainability (Peattie and Crane 2005). While progress has been admittedly slower than some may desire, the emergence and entrance of environmentally concerned mass merchandisers has done much to help with sustainable efforts. To better understand this movement, we incorporate the perspectives of both executives and consumers involved in the consumer packaged goods (CPG) industry. This research relies on three underlying themes: (1) Conceptual and anecdotal evidence suggests that companies undertake sustainability initiatives for a plethora of reasons, (2) The number of sustainability initiatives continues to increase in the consumer packaged goods industries, and (3) That it is, therefore, necessary to explore the role that sustainability plays in the minds of consumers. In light of these themes, surveys were administered to and completed by 143 college students and 101 business executives to assess a number of variables in regards to sustainability including willingness-to-pay, behavioral intentions, attitudes, willingness-to-pay, and preferences. Survey results indicate that the top three reasons why executives believe sustainability to be important include (1) the opportunity for profitability, (2) the fulfillment of an obligation to the environment, and (3) a responsibility to customers and shareholders. College students identified the top three reasons as (1) a responsibility to the environment, (2) an indebtedness to future generations, and (3) an effective management of resources. While the rationale for supporting sustainability efforts differed between college students and executives, the executives and consumers reported similar responses for the majority of the remaining sustainability issues. Furthermore, when we asked consumers to assess the importance of six key issues (healthcare, economy, education, crime, government spending, and environment) previously identified as important to consumers by Gallup Poll, protecting the environment only ranked fourth out of the six (Carlson 2005). While all six of these issues were identified as important, the top three that emerged as most important were (1) improvements in education, (2) the economy, and (3) health care. As the pursuit and incorporation of sustainability continues to evolve, so too will the expected outcomes. New definitions of performance that reflect the social/business benefits as well as the lengthened implementation period are relevant and warranted (Ehrenfeld 2005; Hitchcock and Willard 2006). We identified three primary categories of outcomes based on a literature review of both anecdotal and conceptual expectations of sustainability: (1) improvements in constituent satisfaction, (2) differentiation opportunities, and (3) financial rewards. Within each of these categories, several specific outcomes were identified resulting in eleven different outcomes arising from sustainability initiatives. Our survey results indicate that the top five most likely outcomes for companies that pursue sustainability are: (1) green consumers will be more satisfied, (2) company image will be better, (3) corporate responsibility will be enhanced, (4) energy costs will be reduced, and (5) products will be more innovative.

MEASURES OF PERCEIVED SUSTAINABILITY

Juran Kim,Charles R. Taylor,Kyung Hoon Kim,Ki Hoon Lee 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2014 Global Marketing Conference Vol.2014 No.7

Sustainable marketing, as recently noticed by academics and practitioners, refers to a form of marketing that makes a net positive contribution to society in terms of environmental, social, and economic developments. Firms’ interest in sustainability as part of business performance beyond mere financial goals has been increased. Various sources, including societal mandates incorporated into regulations, concern about loss of sales, and a potential decline in corporate reputation pressures companies into implementing proper sustainability management. The purpose of this study is to clarify measures of perceived sustainability from the marketing perspective, analyze the effects of perceived sustainability on customer equity, and develop the recent theoretical frameworks and implications that will enable sustainable marketing concepts to be globally competitive. The measures of perceived sustainability items enable researchers to examine relationships among perceptions of sustainability and other key customer equity variables, such as value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity. For this and other reasons, the MPS may have value to practitioners. By understanding perceived sustainability, they can develop economic, social, environmental and communication performances that effectively utilize sustainability. The measures of perceived sustainability offers researchers a tool for measuring perceived sustainability that is consistent with the literature on sustainability, while recognizing the reality that sustainability is a multidimensional construct. The rigor reflected in the multiple methods for generating scale items and the multiple stages in the scale development process results in a scale that should be useful to both researchers and practitioners.

Measures of perceived sustainability

김주란,Charles R, Taylor,김경훈,이기훈 한국마케팅과학회 2015 마케팅과학연구 Vol.25 No.2

Sustainable marketing, as noted by numerous academics and practitioners, refers to aform of marketing that makes a net positive contribution to society in terms ofenvironmental, social and economic developments. Firms’ interest in sustainability asan aspect of business performance other than financial goals has steadily increased. Various factors (including societal mandates incorporated into regulations, concernabout loss of sales and a potential decline in corporate reputation) pressure companiesinto implementing proper sustainability management. The purpose of this study is toclarify measures of perceived sustainability (MPS) from a marketing perspective, toanalyze the effects of perceived sustainability on customer equity and to developtheoretical frameworks and implications that will allow sustainable marketing conceptsto be globally competitive. The MPS scales identified in this study enable researchers to examine relationshipsbetween perceptions of sustainability and other key customer equity drivers, such asvalue equity, brand equity and relationship equity. Among other reasons, this maycause practitioners to value MPS. By understanding perceived sustainability,practitioners can develop economic, social and environmental performances thateffectively utilize sustainability. The MPS scales offer researchers a tool for measuringperceived sustainability that is consistent with the literature on sustainability, whilerecognizing the reality that sustainability is a multidimensional construct. The rigorreflected in the multiple methods for generating scale items as well as the multiplestages in the scale development process results in a scale that should be useful to bothresearchers and practitioners.

THE SUSTAINABLE BRAND EQUITY MODEL. A RETAIL STUDY MEASURING SUSTAINABLE BRAND EQUITY

Tony Apéria,Christian Persson 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2018 Global Marketing Conference Vol.2018 No.07

Introduction Aim Research in the Swedish retail sector 2017, shows that 37% of the public in Sweden has attitudes and behavior that make them part of the Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability group (Lohas). Lohas is a method (see Lohas.se) to measure sustainable living in a global context (Swedish Sustainability Ranking 2017). This make Sweden in the forefront. Furthermore, the Swedish government has issued a new law (entered into force in 2017) that demands Swedish companies with more than 250 employees or a certain turnover to annually report their sustainability efforts and how it connects to their business model. This is the background for our study investigating different industry sectors in Sweden. In this environment, retailers such as IKEA, Apoteket, Max Burger, Clas Ohlson, and H&M, followed by others, have gained recognition regarding their strong brands as well as good practice within sustainability. Sustainability has recently become more relevant to study. In Sweden repeated surveys, (2004-2017), have shown that Swedish retailers are perceived as the most reputable and sustainable of all companies. What is the background that makes retailers so trusted and sustainable among the general public and customers in Sweden? The purpose of this paper is to present and analyze the underlying factors which give retailers in Sweden such a high sustainability scores over time i.e. what factors are important to achieve sustainable brand equity in the Swedish retail sector. A detailed comparison will be made of two large surveys carried out in 2016 and 2017. Design/methodology/approach This paper explores the branding framework Customer-Based Brand Equity as well as Points of Difference (POD) and Points of Parity (POP) in a projective retailer sustainability perspective, Keller, Apéria and Georgson (2012). The overall customer brand equity framework is developed by Keller (1993). PODs is defined as unique associations, strong and favorable, linked to a brand. POPs are associations that can be shared with other brands, Keller, Sternthal, and Tybout (2002). Ailawadi and Keller (2004) discuss the importance of measuring retailer brand equity. According to the researchers brand equity has been one of the most challenging and important issues for both academics and managers. The chosen framework and the analysis for the study is the corporate brand level. A sustainability index, developed by Apéria, has been developed and tested during the period 2015-2017. The sustainability index measures four dimensions of sustainability: environment/climate, society/ethics, longterm/future perspective, and openness (see figure 1). The index is inspired by the Triple bottom line approach. The data comes from the Swedish Sustainability Ranking, the largest survey on sustainability in Sweden. More than 18,000 online surveys were carried out in 2016 and 25,000 surveys carried out in 2017. The panelists participating in the survey were recruited in order to be representative of the Swedish general public, age 18-74 years. 190 well-known and visible consumer companies were measured in 2016 and 200 companies and organizations in 2017. These companies were selected because they are well-known, salient and represent important categories from a consumer point of view. Our view of salience is based on Ehrenberg, Barnard and Scriven (1997). A pre-study was carried out in 2015 in order to understand consumer criterias for choice of retailer. In 2016, 32 retailers where measured in a specific retailer frame of reference. 4,225 surveys where carried out among general public who participated in the study. In the 2017 survey, 35 retailers were measured and 3,416 surveys were carried out, also in a retailer frame of reference targeting the general public. All respondents taking part in the study initially ranked companies with product, brand, and sustainability attributes. The respondents ranked these retailers with approximately 35 brand- attitude questions (Likert scale from 1-7). In the second part of the interview each respondent also indirectly, through a projective approach, described the retailer. The perspective of reputation and sustainability metrics has traditionally been used in a strict rational point of view. One example of reputation metrics is the RepTrak model described by Fombrun, Ponzi, and Newburry (2015), and van Riel (2012). Chun and Davies (2004) and J. Aaker (1997) have also discussed corporate character and brand personality from a rational point of view. Ailawadi and Keller (2004) have pointed out that brand personality as an area deserves greater attention from research. The authors of this article argue that a complementary perspective is needed to fully understand how consumers evaluate corporate brands and sustainability and the complexity behind this process. The authors propose to add emotional components in the evaluation, as a complement to the traditional rational view. The proposed way to understand the emotional side of a corporate brand is to use projective techniques (Apéria 2001, Apéria and Back 2004, Keller, Apéria and Georgson 2012). An advantage of projective techniques is that they may elicit responses that respondents may be unwilling or unable to give by traditional interview methods. In this retailer study we used projective techniques in order to explore the more emotional aspects of the retailers. Findings The results from the analyze presents Swedish retailers as representing the most sustainable of all company categories in Sweden. During a period between 2004-2017 the retail category have been in top positions of the Swedish reputation and sustainability ranking, measured in a longitudinal study. Apoteket, The Body Shop and Clas Ohlson have been ranked as number one, one time each. While IKEA has been number one eleven times during the period. During the last two years, 2016 and 2017 IKEA was ranked as number one, based on the sustainability index. The analyze has shown that the highly sustainable retailers operating in the Swedish market primarily are characterized by strong brands as well as strong perceptions of sustainability. An interesting example is the local Swedish fast-food company Max Burgers that strongly outperforms McDonald´s both as a brand as well on sustainability. Successful retailers have different personalities, and archetypes compared with other corporate categories. The analysis reveals that the strongest retailers with a high sustainability index are characterized by having strong brand personalities. Furthermore, the analysis also reveals that the archetypes characterizing these retailers are we-oriented archetypes such as: ordinary/familiar, stable/down to earth, but also the ego-oriented archetype focused/specialist. Examples of retailers with a strong brand personality are IKEA, The Body Shop, Stadium, ICA, Zara and H&M. When we compare the data from the study 2016 with 2017 we see the same results. Our results from both studies indicate that local retailers are more positively evaluated than international. We-orientated brands score higher than ego-orientated. Some retail categories are perceived better than others are. Examples of strong retail categories are pharmacies, furniture, food, and sport stores and weak retailer categories are hamburger restaurants, consumer electronics and telecom stores. However, there is always an opportunity for a retailer to be stronger than the category they represent. One example, earlier mentioned is the local hamburger chain Max Burgers that strongly outperforms international competitors such as Burger King and McDonald´s, when we compare their sustainability indexes. The results indicate that both rational and emotional factors constitute an important part of the Sustainable Brand Equity Model. This new model (see figure 2) has been developed and tested during surveys 2015-2017 by one of the authors as a part of the Swedish Sustainability Ranking. Central components of the model are sustainability indexes, corporate brand personality, brand associations meeting need segments which lead to brand loyalty and trust capital. Finally, our survey shows that retailers needs to be strong in both brand and sustainability. It´s not enough to only excel in sustainability. Research limitations/implications The Sustainability survey was carried out both in 2016 and 2017 in a retailer frame of reference including different retailers from different sectors. The authors recognize that Swedes rank retailers as the most reputable and sustainable category of companies every year. In different countries the general public has different opinions about which companies they found most reputable (Apéria, Simcic Brønn, and Schultz, 2004). Originality/value The authors compares the chosen 32 retailers studied in 2016 with 35 retailers studied in 2017 with the same method. In both surveys we used both rational questions and emotional projective questions in order to understand the retailers in-depth. In both surveys a sustainability index was used in order to rank the retailers.

THE ROLE OF AMBIGUITY IN THE EFFECTIVENESS OF SUSTAINABILITY LABELING

Yoon-Na Cho,Charles R. Taylor 글로벌지식마케팅경영학회 2018 Global Marketing Conference Vol.2018 No.07

In terms of sustainability alone, consumers are faced with a staggering assortment of 463 different labels across 25 industry sectors, a number that is only expected to grow over time (Ecolabel Index 2016). Amid growing environmental concerns, research suggests that many consumers are unlikely to consider the consequences of their choices at the point of purchase, or if they attempt to do so, they generally do not have the information necessary to make more sustainable choices. Given the rise of ineffective green communication protocols and consumers’ concerns with environmental impacts associated with their purchases, this paper attempts to understand how the provision of sustainability labeling can influence comprehension and consumer decision-making. Utilizing the ambiguity theoretical framework (Einhorn and Hogarth 1985), we suggest that perceptions of sustainability will be influenced using an anchor comprising a plausible range based on consumers’ existing beliefs and internal points of reference (Broniarczyk and Alba 1994). That is, consumers revert to a pre-existing reference point, and the new information does not allow for much movement in perceptions. In an ambiguous situation in which consumers have limited knowledge of product sustainability, the perceived brand-based sustainability level is expected to allow consumers to establish an initial value of sustainability (Hogarth and Kunreuther 1992). Our findings suggest that providing environmental information can be a useful tool in assisting consumers in making sustainable decisions. Providing quantitative aggregated environmental impact information of products influences consumers’ perceived ambiguity, leading to evaluation of the brand. The perceived ambiguity derived from sustainability level provides an underlying mechanism in information processing. Given rising concerns about consumers ability to process sustainability information in an efficient manner, our findings suggest that one way to encourage consumers to better process the sustainability information is to mitigate perceived ambiguity. Enforcing disclosure initiatives that assess the environmental impact of products can provide benefit to firms—especially for product categories in which limited loyalty or differentiation exists. Sustainability disclosures appear to offer a mechanism that can help consumers make informed decisions. Furthermore, extrapolating the influence of disclosures on consumer evaluation and choice across the variety of product categories for which consumers routinely make purchases suggests the potential for dramatic increases in global sustainability.