pH 변화에 따른 자연 보습 인자의 피부 보습력 비교 관찰

표형찬(Hyung Chan Pyo),김홍직(Hong Jig Kim),김영근(Young Keun Kim) 대한피부과학회 1988 대한피부과학회지 Vol.26 No.1

The flexibility of surface layer of skin is largely dependent upon the layer's water content. This, in turn, depends primarily on the quantity of water soluble hygroscopic and surface active msterials within the straturn corneum, often known as the natural moisturizing fsctors(NMF). It consist of amino acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and inorganic salts etc.. Some of these components are greatly influenced by hydrogen ion content and ionic form of them were found to be highly hygroscopic. In this experiment, sunburn exfoliated human stratum corneum and pig epidermis separated by 2N-NaBr were used as in vitro test. These tissues were so treated to hsve each pH value (3, 5, 7, 9) and their water holding capacity and hygroscopicity were measured by gravimetric method. The results are summarized as follows : 1, Water holding capactiy of sunburn exfoliated human skin showed significant increase at pH 5 (p<0.1), 7 (p<0.01), 9 (p<0.01) compared to pH 3, and increase in pH 7 (p<0.1), 9 (p<0.05) compared to pH 5 in lactic acid. In pig epidermis, there was significant increase at pH 5 (p<0.05), 7 (p<0.01), 9 (p<0.05) cornpared to pH 3 in lactic acid. 2. Hygroscopicity of pig epidermis showed significant increase at pH 5 (p<0.05), 7 (p<0.1), 9 (p(0.05) in lactic acid and at pH 5 (p(0.05), 7 (p<0.05), 9 (p<0,01) in pyrrolidone carboxylic acid compared to pH 3. The present study suggests that moisturizing capacity of NMF showed significant increasing tendency sccording to pH increase.

아미노산 동시분석을 통한 피부보습능과 각질 중 아미노산 함량과의 상관관계 연구

주경미 ( Kyung-mi Joo ),한지연 ( Ji Yeon Han ),손의동 ( Eui Dong Son ),남개원 ( Gae-won Nam ),정혜진 ( Hye-jin Jeong ),임경민 ( Kyung-min Lim ),조준철 ( Jun-cheol Cho ) 대한화장품학회 2012 대한화장품학회지 Vol.38 No.1

천연보습인자(NMF, natural moisturizing factor)는 정상 피부 내의 각질층에 존재하는 수용성, 친수성 성분을 총칭하는 말로 외부로부터 수분을 흡수하고 각질층의 수분보유능을 증가시키며 피부가 건조해지는 것을 방지하여 피부의 유연성과 가수성을 유지하는 기능을 한다. NMF는 주로 아미노산과 아미노산의 대사산물로 구성되며 이들은 필라그린(filaggrin)이 분해되면서 생성된다. 본 연구에서는 피부 각질층의 22종의 개별 아미노산의 함량분석을 통하여 피부보습능과 개개의 아미노산과의 상관관계를 연구하였다. 15명의 건강한 지원자들의 전박과 이마로부터 tape stripping한 각질 시료 중 22종의 아미노산 함량을 UPLC-PDA를 이용하여 동시 분석하였다. 그 결과 각질 표면보다는 안쪽에서의 아미노산들의 함량이 높음을 확인하였다. 또한 신체 부위별 비교에서 전박이 이마에 비해 아미노산 함량이 1.5배 정도 높음을 확인하였다. 전박부위의 아미노산 총 함량과 보습능(TEWL)과의 상관 관계분석을 통해서는 보습능이 클수록 총아미노산 함량이 높은 것으로 확인되었으며 특히 Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala 및 Thr은 각질 내 존재하는 주요 아미노산 성분으로 보습에 긍정적인 영향을 주는 성분으로 확인되었다. 이상의 결과로써 NMF의 주성분인 아미노산의 함량은 각질 생리기능과 밀접한 관련을 가지고 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며 본 연구를 통해 얻은 각질층의 아미노산의 통합적인 분석법은 보습, 노화, 미백, 피부 염증질환 등 다양한 피부 상태와 아미노산류들의 변화와의 관계를 깊이 이해하고 피부 기능과 관련된 새로운 분자적 타겟을 발굴하고 증명하는데 기초적인 방법으로써 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are hydrophilic and water-soluble components in stratum corneum of the skin. NMFs absorb water from outer environment and enhance the water-holding capacity of stratum corneum and thereby, prevent the dryness and increase flexibility and plasticity of skin. NMFs are mainly composed of amino acids and their metabolites that are produced from the degradation of filaggrin. Here we established a simultaneous quantification method for 22 amino acids in tape-stripped stratum corneum samples using UPLC-PDA. With this method, we analyzed amino acid contents from tape-stripped stratum corneum samples of forearm and forehead regions from 15 healthy volunteers. Amino acid contents of inner (or upper) region were higher than outer (or lower) region of stratum corneum. Amino acid contents of stratum corneum of forearm were higher by 1.5 fold than forehead region. Of note, total amino acid contents were significantly and inversely correlated with trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), an index for skin barrier function. Especially, Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala and Thr were determined to positively affect skin mositurizing activities. In conclusion, we could demonstrate that amino acid contents of stratum corneum are closely linked with skin barrier and moisturizing function, providing an important and fundamental methodology for the study of amino acids in skin physiology.

Clinical Efficacy of Moisturizers for Barrier Defects in Childhood Atopic Eczema: What is the Evidence?

( Kam Lun Hon ) 한국피부장벽학회 2013 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.15 No.2

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronically relapsing dermatitis associated with pruritus, sleep disturbance, psychosocial symptoms and impaired quality of life. Avoidance of triggering factors, optimal skin care, topical corticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors are the mainstay of therapy for AD. Recent advances in the understanding of the pathophysiological process of AD involving filaggrin and ceramide metabolism has led to the concept of barrier therapy and production of new moisturizers and topical skin products targeted to correct reduced amounts of ceramides and natural moisturizing factors in the skin. Although some of these commercial products show promising effects, efficacy on skin biophysiologic, clinical and psychosocial parameters have not been consistently demonstrated. Well-designed, large scale, randomized, placebo-controlled trials to document therapeutic effects on disease severity, dermatologic biophysical parameters, quality of life and patient acceptability are needed. The ideal skin barrier therapeutic agent is yet to be invented.

Serine 의 인공피부조직 투과 개선을 위한 Stearic Acid 기반 고형지질나노입자의 설계 연구

여수호 ( Sooho Yeo ) 대한화장품학회 2021 대한화장품학회지 Vol.47 No.2

각질층은 피부의 가장 바깥쪽에 위치하여 피부 내 수분을 유지시킨다. 피부 보습은 각질층 내 천연보습인자(natural moisturizing factors, NMF)에 의존하는데, NMF 중 아미노산이 가장 많은 비율을 차지한다. 본 연구에서는 NMF 중 serine (Ser)의 피부 투과율을 개선시키기 위해 생체 적합한 고형지질인 stearic acid 기반 고형지질나노입자(solid lipid nanoparticles, SLNs)를 설계하였다. Ser 봉입 SLNs은 이중 가온용융유화법으로 제조하였다. 평균 입자 크기는 256.30 ∼ 416.93 nm이었고 제타전위는 -17.60 ∼ -35.27 mV이었다. 유화제의 지용성 또는 친수성의 정도가 각각 높아질수록 입자크기 작아지고 안정성 및 봉입율이 높아지는 경향을 보였다. Ser의 피부 투과 연구를 위해 인체 표피 유래 피부 조직(SkinEthic^TM RHE)을 사용하였다. Ser의 피부 투과 결과 SLN을 적용한 제형이 대조군인 Ser 용액에 비해 약 4.1 ∼ 6.2 배 투과율이 개선되었음을 확인하였다. 유화제의 지용성 또는 친수성의 정도가 각각 높아질수록 Ser의 피부 투과율이 높아지는 경향을 보였다. 따라서, Ser이 봉입된 SLN은 기능성화장품의 보습효과 처방을 위한 경피흡수 제형으로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다. Stratum corneum known as a skin barrier, which maintains water in skin, is the outer layer of the skin. Natural moisturizing factors (NMF) are one of the constituents in stratum corneum and amino acids are the highest components among NMF. In this study, we designed stearic acid-based solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) for improved skin penetration of serine (Ser). Ser-capsulated SLN was manufactured by double-melting emulsification method. The mean particle size and zeta potential of SLNs were 256.30 ∼ 416.93 nm and -17.60 ∼ -35.27 mV, respectively. The higher the degree of hydrophobicity or hydrophilicity of emulsifiers, the smaller the particle size and the higher the stability and capsulation rate. In addition, skin penetration was conducted using SkinEthic^TM RHE which is one of the reconstructed human epidermis models. The results of Ser penetration demonstrated that all SLNs enhanced than serine solution. The amount of enhanced Ser penetration from SLNs were approximately 4.1 ∼ 6.2 times higher than that from Ser solution. Therefore, Ser-loaded SLN might be a promising drug delivery system for moisturizing formulation in cosmeceutical.

자외선 조사와 병행된 녹차추출물 식이공급이 무모생쥐의 표피보습 개선 및 유리아미노산 생성 관련 대사에 미치는 영향

최수민(Choi, Sumin),신지혜(Shin, Jihye),이보민(Lee, Bomin),조윤희(Cho, Yunhi) 한국영양학회 2016 Journal of Nutrition and Health Vol.49 No.5

본 연구에서는 자외선 조사를 병행하여 녹차 추출물의 식이공급을 10주간 공급한 무모생쥐 (UV+1%GTE군)의 표피 보습과 filaggrin 의 대사물질 및 관련 효소인 PAD3의 발현 및 함량 변화를 정상대조군 (UV-군) 및 자외선 조사군 (UV+군)과 비교 분석하였으며 결과는 다음과 같다. UV+군의 피부 보습은 UV-군보다 유의적으로 낮은 반면 UV+1%GTE군 의 피부 보습은 UV+군에 비해 유의적으로 높았고, UV-군에는 미치지 못하였다. UV+군의 profilaggrin 함량은 UV-군과 유의적인 차이가 없었으나, filaggrin의 함량은 UV-군에 비해 유의적으로 낮았다. UV+1%GTE군 에서 profilaggrin은 UV- 및 UV+에 비해 현저히 높았고, filaggrin은 UV-군과 유사한 수준으로 높았다. UV+군의 PAD3 효소 발현은 UV-군에 비해 유의적으로 낮았다. UV+1%GTE군은 UV+군에 비해 유의적으로 높았으며, UV-군에 비해 높았다. 자연보습인자의 주요 아미노산인 serine 및 glycine, alanine의 함량은 UV-군과 UV+군간 유사하였으나 UV+1%GTE군에서는 UV- 및 UV+군에 비해 현저히 높았다. UV-군과 비교하여 UV+군의 피부 보습함량이 낮게 측정된 것에 비해 유리아미노산 함량에는 변화가 없어 자외선에 따른 피부 보습에 관여되는 또 다른 메커니즘인 표피 지질함량 분석과 함께 녹차추출물의 효과에 대한 연구가 추후 이루어질 필요성이 있다. 그러나, 결론적으로 자외선 조사와 병행된 녹차 추출물 식이 공급은 (pro)filaggrin의 함량 및 PAD3의 발현이 높게 나타남에 의한 표피 유리아미노산의 함량이 높아 궁극적으로 자외선 조사에 의해 야기된 피부건조를 완화시켰다. Purpose: Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation decreases epidermal hydration, which is maintained by reduction of natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). Among various NMFs, free amino acids (AA) are major constituents generated by filaggrin degradation. This experiment was conducted to determine whether or not dietary supplementation of green tea extract (GTE) in UV-irradiated mice can improve epidermal levels of hydration, filaggrin, free AAs, and peptidylarginine deiminase-3 (PAD3) expression (an enzyme involved in filaggrin degradation). Methods: Hairless mice were fed a diet of 1% GTE for 10 weeks in parallel with UV irradiation (group UV+1%GTE). As controls, hairless mice were fed a control diet in parallel with (group UV+) or without (group UV-) UV irradiation. Results: In group UV+, epidermal levels of hydration and filaggrin were lower than those in group UV-; these levels increased in group UV+1% GTE to levels similar to group UV-. Epidermal levels of PAD3 and major AAs of NMF, alanine, glycine and serine were similar in groups UV- and UV+, whereas these levels highly increased in group UV+1% GTE. Conclusion: Dietary GTE improves epidermal hydration by filaggrin generation and degradation into AAs.

Barrier Related Biomarkers of Atopic Dermatitis

( Eung Ho Choi ),( Na Young Yoon ),( Dong Hye Kim ),( Min Young Jung ) 한국피부장벽학회 2013 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.15 No.2

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic and relapsing inflammatory skin disease with pruritus that often precedes asthma and allergic rhinitis. Patients with severe or refractory AD and their families experience significant impairment in their life quality. In addition, AD places a heavy economic burden on our society. Recently impaired skin barrier and abnormal immune reaction have been summarized as two main pathogenesis of AD. New insights into the genetics and pathophysiology of AD point to an important role of structural abnormalities in the epidermis as well as immune dysregulation. These insights count not only for this skin disease but also for the development of asthma and allergic rhinitis. Biomarker is an indicator of biological state, which enables both objective measurement and evaluation of normal biological processes, pathogenic processes, or pharmacologic responses to therapeutic intervention. Biomarkers are important in monitoring disease severity, prognosis and treatment responses. In this review, we describe the pathomechanism of AD in the aspects of skin barrier, and highlight the mutations of filaggrin, serine protease, serine protease inhibitors and tight junctions, and the level of ceramides and natural moisturizing factors in stratum corneum as biomarkers of AD. The biomarkers to predict the occurrence and severity of AD based on the mutations of skin barrier related genes are going to be used for applying the preventive and therapeutic strategies against AD, especially in neonates with atopic family history in the near future.

Effect of Standardized Boesenbergia pandurata Extract and Its Active Compound Panduratin A on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

우선욱,임동빈,김창희,황재관 한국식품영양과학회 2015 Preventive Nutrition and Food Science Vol.20 No.1

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase 14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with PPARa expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase 14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

Effect of Standardized Boesenbergia pandurata Extract and Its Active Compound Panduratin A on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

Woo, Seon Wook,Rhim, Dong-Bin,Kim, Changhee,Hwang, Jae-Kwan The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition 2015 Preventive Nutrition and Food Science Vol.20 No.1

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase-14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase-14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

Effect of Standardized Boesenbergia pandurata Extract and Its Active Compound Panduratin A on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

Seon Wook Woo,Dong-Bin Rhim,Changhee Kim,Jae-Kwan Hwang 한국식품영양과학회 2015 Preventive Nutrition and Food Science Vol.20 No.1

The skin plays a key role in protecting the body from the environment and from water loss. Cornified envelope (CE) and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are considered as the primary regulators of skin hydration and barrier function. The CE prevents loss of water from the body and is formed by cross-linking of several proteins. Among these proteins, filaggrin is an important protein because NMF is produced by the degradation of filaggrin. Proteases, including matriptase and prostasin, stimulate the generation of filaggrin from profilaggrin and caspase-14 plays a role in the degradation of filaggrin. This study elucidated the effects of an ethanol extract of Boesenbergia pandurata (Roxb.) Schltr., known as fingerroot, and its active compound panduratin A on CE formation and filaggrin processing in HaCaT, human epidermal keratinocytes. B. pandurata extract (BPE) and panduratin A significantly stimulated not only CE formation but also the expression of CE proteins, such as loricrin, involucrin, and transglutaminase, which were associated with PPARα expression. The mRNA and protein levels of filaggrin and filaggrin-related enzymes, such as matriptase, prostasin, and caspase-14 were also up-regulated by BPE and panduratin A treatment. These results suggest that BPE and panduratin A are potential nutraceuticals which can enhance skin hydration and barrier function based on their CE formation and filaggrin processing.

실크 단백질 Sericin 및 Fibroin의 식이 공급이 아토피 피부염 동물 모델 NC/Nga Mice의 혈장과 표피의 유리 아미노산 함량에 미치는 영향

김현애(Kim Hyunae),박경호(Park Kyung-Ho),여주홍(Yeo Joo-Hong),이광길(Lee Kwang-Gill),정도현(Jeong Do-Hyeon),김성한(Kim Sung-Han),조윤희(Cho Yunhi) 韓國營養學會 2006 Journal of Nutrition and Health Vol.39 No.6