밀양 가야진 용신제 참여자 복식 고증

이은주,최윤희,김미선 단국대학교 석주선기념박물관 2024 한국 복식 Vol.0 No.51

18세기 후기 대를 기준으로 가야진 용신제에 참여하는 헌관(獻官)ㆍ축(祝)의 제복(祭服)과 장찬자(掌饌者) 이하의 학생복을 고증한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 재관(齋官) 중 헌관과 축으로 참여하는 품관 4인은 제복을 제안하였다. 제복의 착장 순서는 바지ㆍ저고리 등의 받침옷을 착용한 후 ➊말(襪, 버선)ㆍ행전(行纏) ➋이(履, 제혜)를 신는다. ➌중단(中單) 대신 창의를 착용한다. ➍상(裳, 치마)를 입는다. ➎제복의(祭服衣)를 입고 ➏후수(後綬)를 ➐대대(大帶)에 연결하여 허리에 묶고 ➑폐슬 상단에 있는 고리에 끈을 꿰어 허리 앞쪽에 두른다. ➒품대(品帶)를 띤다. ➓패옥(佩玉) 1쌍을 품대와 대대 좌우에 건다. ⓫방심곡령(方心曲領)을 목에 걸고 ⓬제관(祭冠)을 쓰고 ⓭홀(笏)을 든다. 둘째, 제복 중 품계에 따라 차이가 있는 구성물의 경우, 초헌관을 2품관으로 상정하여 ➊헌관은 4량관, 3량관, 2량관을 차등 있게 쓰고 축은 1량관을 사용한다. ➋품대는 초헌관의 경우, 삽금대(鈒金帶)나 소금대(素金帶)를, 아헌관은 삽은대(鈒銀帶)를, 종헌관은 소은대(素銀帶)를, 축은 흑각대(黑角帶)를 띠도록 한다. ➌정조 대의 홀은 아홀(牙笏)이나 목홀(木笏)을 통용할 수 있으나 보편적인 방식을 따라 헌관은 아홀을, 축(훈도)은 목홀을 사용한다. 셋째, 장찬자 이하 알찬자(謁贊者) 등은 향교의 학생으로 충당하며, 학생복으로 ➊유건(儒巾) ➋도포(道袍) ➌세조대(細條帶, 녹색이나 청색) ➍흑화(黑靴, 청색 깃이나 흑색 깃)를 제시하였다. The results of examining the jebok (祭服) of heon-gwan (獻官) and chuk (祝), as well as theuniform worn by yousaeng (儒生) who participated in Gayajin (伽倻津) Yongsinje (龍神祭) duringJeongjo’s reign, are as follows. First, the four government employee(品官) who participated as three heon-gwan (獻官) and achuk (祝) use the jebok attire. The order for wearing the jebok is as follows; ➊mal (襪, socks) andhaengjeon(行纏, leggings) ➋jehye (祭鞋, 履) ➌daechangui (大氅衣) ➍sang (裳, skirt). ➎jebok-ui(祭服衣, jacket) ➏daedae (大帶) ➐husu (後綬) ➑pyeseul (蔽膝) ➒pumdae (品帶) ➓paeok (佩玉) ⓫bangsimgokryeong (方心曲領) ⓬jegwan (祭冠, hat) ⓭hol (笏). Second, the different components of jebok attire, depending on the status, are as follows; ➊Athree-member heongwan uses jegwan with four, three, or two string variations, while a chukwears a jegwan with a single string. ➋Regarding pumdae, choheon-gwan (初獻官) uses either thesapgeumdae (鈒金帶, a gold belt with a plate of carved) or the sogeumdae (素金帶, a gold belt withthe plates of non-carved). Aheon-gwan (亞獻官) uses the sap-eundae (鈒銀帶, a silver belt withthe plates of carved), and jongheon-gwan (終獻官) wears the soeundae (素銀帶, a silver belt withthe plates of non-carved). Meanwhile, chuk uses the heukgakdae (黑角帶, a belt with a plate ofblack horn). ➌As for hol, heon-gwan uses the ahol (象牙, ivory), while chuk uses the mokhol (木笏,wooden tablet). Third, the attire worn by yousaeng who participated in the Yongshinje was suggested to includethe following costumes: ➊yugeon (儒巾), ➋dopo (道袍), ➌sejodae (細條帶, belt in green or blue),and ➍heukhwa (黑靴)

지리산 남악제(南岳祭) 제례복식(祭禮服飾)에 관한 제언

이영주(Yeong-Ju Lee),이상은(Sang-Eun Lee) 한국의상디자인학회 2014 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.16 No.4

한국광복군의 <육군제복도안>에 대한 고찰

김정민,홍나영 한복문화학회 2018 韓服文化 Vol.21 No.4

The Korean Independence Army was founded by the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea, which was the highest organization in the independence movement. Armed independence movements to regain the national sovereignty which was taken away by Japan in 1910 continued, and at the center of them stood the Korean Independence Army. Their uniform is often featured in various printed materials and broadcast media befitting their prestige, but representation not based on historical evidence risks generating a distorted image. There is also a lack of precedent research on the Korean Independence Army, despite the value of their uniform and representations. This study aims to study and systematically compile information on the uniform of the Korean Independence Army. Established in 1940, the Korean Independence Army was active in China, wearing the uniform of Nationalist Army of China due to political and economic conditions in its early days. In February 1945, Yukgun Jebok Doan and Yukgun Hwijang Doan (Protocol of Army Insignia) established an exclusive uniform for the Korean Independence Army. This study researches Yukgun Jebok Doan, which expressed that the army was that of an independent nation through its uniform, and establishes the standard for relics and the foundation for producing representations. Objects of this research are the military cap, upper and lower garments of the uniform, and the military boots prescribed in Yukgun Jebok Doan. Findings were derived from existing literature and photography, along with Yukgun Jebok Doan. The military uniform in Yukgun Jebok Doan was a reddish yellow, and there were two types of military caps: the service cap and the field cap. Soldiers wore their upper wear with straight-leg pants, with a belt. Their overcoat was double-breasted. The uniform of the Korean Independence Army was completed with military boots which covered the ankles.

조선 후기의 사직제례 복식 연구

김소현 한복문화학회 2022 韓服文化 Vol.25 No.4

It was intended to improve the perfection of Sajik-daeje by studying the attires of those who participated in the Sajikdan in the late Joseon Dynasty. Based on the book of 《Sajikseo-uigwe》 and the folding screen of 《Sajikdan-gukwang-chinhyangdo》, the procedure of Sajik rituals in the late Joseon Dynasty were examined, and the clothes of the participants. As a person who managed the Sajikdan and practically led the rites, subok wore a black hat(巾) and a red jikryeong. Seowon was an administrator and wore mugak-pyeon-gjeong-geon, danryeong, and doa. Gojik, who was in charge of material management, wore god and cheolrik. Seori also wore the same clothes. The king and others participating in the ceremony changed into appropriate attire for the ritual for each procedure. In the preparation process for the Sajik rite, the king wore ikseon-gwanbok and his officials wore sangbok, but in the chinlim-seogye, the king wore wonyu-gwanbok, and the officials of 4 or higher rank wore jobok, those of 5 rank or lower wore sangbok. When the king left the palace to go to Sajikdan, a large procession, daeganobu followed. The king wore wonyu-gwanbok, the civil officials wore jobok, and the military officials wore military uniform. The royal guards wore uniforms according to their duties, such as yungbok and armor. In the process of examining the offerings prior to the ritual, the king and the crown prince wore wonyu-gwanbok, and those in 4th and above wore jobok, those in 5th and below wore sangbok. For the ritual, the king added bangsim-gokryeong to myun-bok, and those who directly performed the rites wore jebok, and other participants in 4th and above wore jobok, those in 5th and below wore sangbok. .

조선시대 방심곡령(方心曲領)에 관한 연구(Ⅰ)-역사적 고찰을 중심으로-

이영주,김효숙 한국니트디자인학회 2019 패션과 니트 Vol.17 No.2

The purpose of this study is to provide a historical review of the Bangsimgoglyeong used in the Joseon Dynasty. The research method is based on the the records of the The annals of the Joseon Dynasty, national liturgy, relics, and photographs and portraits of the king. In the Joseon Dynasty, Bangsimgoglyeong were put on the collar of the Myeonbok by the kings, princes, and on the collar of the Jebok(ritual robes) by government officials at the religious ceremony. Generally, Bangsimgoglyeong is composed of the Goglyeong(the shape is round) and the Bangsim(the shape is rectangular). Bangsim is connected by a straight cord to the center of the front of the Goglyeong. There are things with or without Bangsim , those with Naegong and those without. The shape of the Bangsim is trapezoid, rectangle, square and so on. In the figures of national liturgy, the Goglyeong appears as a perfectly round shape, but a result of studying the actual artifacts, it was made into an elliptical shape with a long U-shape on the front of the chest. There are two strings on the right and left sides of the Goglyeong, the left string is green and the right string is red. In the records of the national liturgy, materials are used mainly Baegla and Baegsa in Gillye and Galyei, and Baegcho in Hyunglye. There is a record that the strings on the right and left use Unmunsa. Various materials such as Baegju, Samjoghangla, Eunjosa, Mosi, Baegjeopo, Sunin and Dan, were used to produce Bangsimgoglyeong of government officials. Until the first half of the 18th century, a button was placed on the center of the back of the neck. From the second half of the 18th century, there was a change of putting a button on the right side and putting a Sim(collar string pad) on the inside of the Gongryeong.