『영정모사도감의궤(影幀模寫都監儀軌)』에 나온 편연지 재현

서예진,김민 한국기초조형학회 2018 기초조형학연구 Vol.19 No.4

The purpose of this thesis is the recreation of Pyeonyeonji indicated in Yeongjeongmosa-dogam Uigwe and presumption of dyeing used in Yeonji. This thesis conducted case study forthe title of the portrait of King Yeongjo and analyzed the use of Yeonji in the Red royal robe byfield study. There were restrictions in presuming the organic dye used in paintings due to lack ofresearch in the respective field. Inorganic dye used for painting the portrait of king can bemostly presumed, and the research has been already carried out. However, research on organicdye used in paintings is rare. There are limitations of the portable equipment, and today’sanalytical equipment is mostly for inorganic dye analysis. To overcome given limitations, thisthesis tried to look for the original color and type of Yeonji used on the title of Yeongjo’sportrait of king mentioned in Korean Old Documents by conducting optical and artificialacceleration degradation analysis. Research on organic dye was also conducted by recreatingPyeonyeonji used in Yeongjo’s portrait of king based on Yeongjeongmosa-dogam Uigwe. TheKorea old documents recorded carthamus tintorius, laccaic acid, cochineal and caesalpinia sappanas main materials used for Yeonji. Pyeonyeonji was created by dyeing red dye in cotton, anddried Yeonji was extracted from dried Pyeonyeonji which was used to compare colors. Thecomparison and analysis of the self-made samples of the yeonji were done in order to find theoriginal color of yeonji appeared in portrait of king Yeongjo. This research is anticipated tobecome a basic reference for the differentiation of the dye, and selection of the material used forrestoration when applying conservation treatment to the red organic dyes such as Yeonji used inpaintings. 본 연구는 영정모사도감의궤(影幀模寫都監儀軌)에 나타는 편연지에 대한 재현과 연지에 사용된 염료의 분석 및그 특성을 밝히고자 하였다. 사례조사로서 영조어진 유물에서 연지의 사용으로 추정되는 곳을 현장조사를 통해분석 하였다. 회화에 사용된 유기염료에 대한 연구는 미비하며 추정하는 것의 한계점을 보완하기위해 고문헌 자료를 바탕으로 영조어진의 표제부분에서 보이는 연지(臙脂)의 광학적인 분석과 인공 가속열화를 실시하여 사용된 연지의 본래의 색상과 종류를 찾고자 하였다. 영정모사도감의궤(1901)를 통하여 영조어진에서 사용된 편연지(片臙脂)를 재현하여 어진에 사용된 유기염료에 대한 연구를 진행하였다. 고문헌을 통한 연지에 사용된 대표적인 재료로 홍화, 락, 코치닐, 소목을 선정하여 목화솜에 적색염료를 염착시켜 편연지를 제작하였고, 건조된 편연지에서 다시 연지를 추출하여 색상을 비교하였다. 영조어진의 표제 부분의 연지 본래 색을 탐색하기 위해 직접 만든 연지의 시편들을 제작하여 비교 분석했다. Thin-layer chromatography(TLC)분석을 통하여 중국산편연지와 홍화, 락, 코치닐, 소목으로의 염액을 놓고 성분들을 이동한 정도 차이를 분석하였다. 어진제작 사용된편연지의 매염제에 대한 화학적인 분석연구가 진행된다면 다양한 적색 염료로 만들어진 색의 표준 데이터를 수집하는데 용이할 수 있을 것이다. 본 연구를 통하여 향후 회화에서 사용되는 연지와 같은 적색 유기염료의 유물보존처리시에 염료의 판별과 복원재료 선정에 표준데이터로써의 활용할 수 있는 기초자료가 될 수 있다는 것에연구의 의의가 있다.

전통 적색 유기 안료 ‘연지’의 기원 및 용도에 관한 문헌 연구

김지연,이상현 한국전통문화대학교 전통문화연구소 2023 한국전통문화연구 Vol.32 No.-

This study investigated historical records related to Yeonji, a traditional red organic pigment, in particular on the use, representative materials, and origins. Yeonji is a word referring to traditional red organic pigments that have been used since ancient times, in various ways as dyes, pigments, and cosmetic materials. Yeonji has various written words and various materials used. Therefore, it is necessary to comprehensively study several prior studies and historical documents. This study investigated the timing of inflow of Yeonji materials into Korea through historical records and studies from China and Japan. In addition, the official records of the Joseon Dynasty, <The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty> and <Uigwe:The Royal Protocos of the Joseon Dynasty>, records of the use of Yeonji as dyes, pigments on structure, painting pigments Record studies concentrated on these materials are expected to be useful in estimating the timing of unknown national cultural heritages in the future, which Yeonji was used.

고분벽화로 본 고구려인의 화장과 화장품

전호태 ( Jeon Hotae ) 국립중앙박물관 2023 고고학지 Vol.29 No.-

There is no record of what makeup in Koguryo looked like, what kind of items people used, or how and with what materials the cosmetic items were made. However, examining the painted faces in Koguryo tomb murals and comparing them with the makeup techniques, materials, and faces left in Chinese records and artifacts might provide a glimpse into the cosmetic techniques and materials used in Koguryo. One of the examples of Koguryo women’s makeup is from Anak Tomb No. 3, one of the earlier tomb murals. The aristocratic lady and her maid in the painting show that in the mid-4th century Koguryo, women powdered their faces with white, drew their brows with dark ink, and used yeonji makeup technique where they painted their upper lips black and tinted their lower lips red. Tomb murals also show that in the early 5th century, Koguryo women not only used yeonji makeup on their lips but also on their cheeks. The cheek blush can also be found in Dongam-ri Mural Tomb in Suncheon as well as the tomb murals of Pyeongyang and Guknaeseong. This shows that women’s makeup technique spread throughout the regions as cultural exchange flourished in Koguryo at its peak. Using gonji makeup on the forehead is first seen in Okdo-ri Mural Tomb of Nampo which dates to the first half of the 5th century. Similar makeup techniques also appear during the same period in the Chinese Song Dynasty. It is difficult to determine whether Koguryo or Song was the first to use gonji makeup. It is possible that similar makeup styles burgeoned in two different societies independently. Men powdering their faces and doing yeonji makeup on their lips can be found both in Koguryo tomb murals and Chinese records dating back to the Three Kingdoms Period. It is likely that men wearing makeup were commonly accepted in ancient East Asia. However, the extent of the popularity of men’s makeup cannot be determined solely by such records and artifacts.

화장과 인간의 에로티시즘

정복희 한국패션뷰티학회 2008 한국패션뷰티학회지 Vol.6 No.2

The purpose of this to study was to find out relationships between the Make-up and the Humanbeing's Eroticism. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The Make-up is the sexual display for the tribes propagation and maintain and is derived from the eroticism to seduce the opposite sex. 2. The red color of Yeonji make-up makes a great contribution to sexual sensibility and is effective to attain the solemn and original desire.

적색 염직물의 색소 추출 방법 및 분석연구

임세연,정용재 한국문화재보존과학회 2016 보존과학회지 Vol.32 No.3

전승되었거나 출토된 직물은 자외 ․ 가시광선, 산소, 미생물 등에 의해 열화 되고 변 ․ 퇴색되어 본래 색을 추정하기 어렵다. 색의 분리 ․ 분석에서 LC-MS 분석은 매우 효과적이나 염료 정성분석에 있어서 직물로부터 색소를 추출하는 과정이 특히 중요하다. 홍화와 락충으로 염색된 직물로부터 염화수소, 피리딘, 옥살산을 주 용매로 한 세 가지 추출방법 중 옥살산을 기반으로 한 방법이 적색소 추출에 가장 효과적이었다. 한편 열화에 따른 색소의 화학적 특성 분석을 위해 홍화와 락충으로 각각 염색한 시편을 자외선A로 168시간 열화 시킨 후 LC-MS로 분석하였다. 그 결과 홍화 색소는 TR 13 min에서 carthamin이, 락 색소는 TR 10 min에서 laccaic acid A가 검출되었다. 또한 자외선 열화 된 홍화 염직물의 MS분석 결과 주 색소인 carthamin은 검출되지 않았지만, 분자량 m/z 931의 물질을 통하여 홍화 염직물임을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통하여 적색 염직물로부터 적색염료 추출을 위한 최적의 방법을 확인할 수 있었으며 , 향후 적색 염료의 정성분석에서 LC-MS분석을 이용한 기초자료로 활용될 것으로 기대한다. A fabric excavated from tombs or passed down is not easy to find its original color as it degrades and discolors by UV and visible rays, oxygen and microorganisms. LC-MS analysis is commonly used for separating and analyzing colors, but color extraction process is complicated and important in dye-qualitative analysis. To extract red colors from a fabric which is dyed with safflower and lac, solvents; hydrogen chloride, pyridine and oxalic acid are used and oxalic acid was the most effective solvent. Meanwhile, dyed samples were put in degradation condition; UV-A for 168 hours and analyzed with LC-MS to find out its colors’chemical changes. As a result, carthamin is detected in TR 13 min and laccaic acid A is detected in TR 10 min. However carthamin is not detected in a degraded fabric dying with safflower, it could be identified as a safflower fabric by the molecular weight of m/z 931. Through this study the most optimal method for red color extraction is found so it is expected to be used as a base line data for red color LC-MS analysis.

피향정(披香亭) 일원의 입지 및 공간구성에 관한 연구

이현우 ( Hyun Woo Lee ) 한국전통조경학회(구 한국정원학회) 2010 한국전통조경학회지 Vol.28 No.3