활옷의 구조적 특성에 따른 색채와 배색 연구

허지혜(JiHye Huh),강성해(SungHae Kang) 한국색채학회 2014 한국색채학회 논문집 Vol.28 No.3

조선시대 활옷은 우리나라 복식의 역사를 한눈에 알 수 있는 중요한 자료이다. 활옷에 대한 선행 연구에는 조형성과 자수문양에 대해 주로 다루어졌는데, 본 연구에서는 활옷의 직물색상과 각 문양의 자수 침법 속에 나타난 색을 분석하고자 한다. 이를 토대로 활옷의 배색 특성을 도출하여 문화 상품 디자인에 적용하기 위한 자료를 제안하는데 목적이 있다. 연구의 범위는 전통 혼례의 기틀이 확립된 조선시대로부터 신식결혼식이 자리 잡기 이전인 20세기 초까지로 제한하였다. 문헌을 통해 이론적 배경을 고찰하고, 국내외 박물관에서 보존 중인 유물의 실물사진 자료를 토대로 활옷의 구조적 특징과 겉감, 안감, 색동, 동정 및 한삼, 자수로 분류한 세부구성별 색채적 특성을 규명하였다. 선정된 유물은 총 107점이며, 그 중에서 68점을 선정하여 각 이미지에서 추출한 배색 팔레트를 바탕으로 L*a*b*값, R G B값, C M Y K값을 구하였다. 이 연구의 색채 분석결과는 다음과 같다. 활옷의 겉감은 홍색의 난색계열이고, 안감은 청색의 한색 계열로만 나타났다. 겉감과 안감은 가장 대표색인 순색에 가까운 색상과 대비를 볼 수 있다. 색동은 홍색, 황색, 녹색, 청색 등 명도와 채도가 높은 색으로 구성되어 소매부분의 강조색으로 나타났다. 동정과 한삼은 백색이 높은 분포를 보였으며, 한삼의 경우 대조적으로 나타난 자수색채는 홍색, 적 황, 진홍이 높은 분포를 보였고 청록색과 자색 또한 사용되었다. 자수에 나타난 색채는 백색, 흑색과 함께 유채색이 높은 분포를 보였으며 적황, 진홍이 가장 높은 분포를 보였다. 이를 토대로 활옷의 색채분석에 따른 대비배색, 분리배색, 강조배색, 반복배색 다이어그램을 제안하였다. 활옷의 배색특성 결과는 활옷에 바탕색인 홍색과 청색을 중심으로 자수에 나타난 유채색의 색상대비를 통한 보색대비가 가장 많이 보였다. 흑백색채와 대비를 부각시켜 명도, 채도를 높이는 색상 등 색채의 상대성을 이용한 배색이 사용되었다. 이 연구에서 도출한 배색 특성은 우리나라 고유의 문화유산을 활용한 문화상품디자인 개발로 향후 문화적, 감성적 가치가 증대되고 있는 현대사회에서 새로운 디자인으로 재창조하는 제안이 이루어 질 수 있을 것이다. HWAROT in Joseon dynasty is the very significant data could be recognize the history of our traditional costume apparently. In precedent study about HWAROT, modeling and embroidered pattern were conducted however in this study , color of texture and color in needlepoint of every patterns are to be analysed. The aim of this study is to ascertain the characteristic of color scheme about HWAROT and suggest data to apply in design for cultural products. The study is limited from Joseon dynasty when traditional wedding system was established to early 20th century when new type wedding system had been established. We considered theoretical background through the reference and studied color characteristics of the fine parts categorized as structural character of HWAROT, outshell, lining, multicolored stripes, Dongjeong(thin white cloth-covered paper collar for korean traditional clothes), korean linen and embroidery. The selected relics are total 107 pieces. Among them, value of L*a*b , R G B and C M Y K were found on the basis of color palette from each images by 68 pieces. The color analysis result is as follows. Outshell of HWAROT has taken warm color as red, and lining is taken cold color as blue. The color approaching to the best typical color and contrast could be demonstrated in outshell and lining. Multicolored stripes were made up of high brightness and chroma colors as red, yellow, green, blue etc and demonstrated emphasized colors on sleeves. Dongjeong and korean linen used almost white color. Red, red-yellow, dark-red were used a lot in embroidered color of korean linen, Also blue-green and purple were used. The chromatic colors including white and black had had much distribution and above all, red-yellow and dark-red had had the most distribution. On the basis of this , we are to suggest diagrams of contrast coloration, separated coloration, empathized coloration by intense primary colors and color scheme by the color analysis of HWAROT. The result from characteristic of color scheme has been demonstrated c omplementary color contrast mostly by the color contrast of chromatic color shown at embroidery with red and blue as the center in HWAROT and has been usage of color scheme depending on the color relativity as color to make brightness and chroma high by emphasis on black and white color and contrast. We are to suggest the development of culture products utilized various indigenous korean cultural heritage could be suggested in modern society, cultural and emotional value have increased through the characteristic of color scheme deducted from this study.

오브제의 개념이 적용된 제품의 유형과 특성연구

허지혜 ( Huh¸ Jihye ) 한국공간디자인학회 2020 한국공간디자인학회논문집 Vol.15 No.6

(Background and Purpose) Various methods of presentation using object add a special feeling to the product, improving its image, and raising awareness on its value by attracting public attention. As such, this study was conducted to derive the expressive characteristics and application characteristics that could be produced by integrating examples of applicable characteristics for each category of product. It identifies the expansion of categorization roles or the applicability of products reflecting expressive characteristics through a frequency analysis of category in prior studies on object. The objective of this study is not to analyze the subject simply using formative and designing principles. (Method) This study analyzes the categories presented through prior studies on object, then combines and reclassifies similar concepts into four categories. Space and presentation were classified as space presentation characteristics, expression pattern, technique variation, and material type were classified as pattern characteristics, and symbols and expression medium were classified as symbolic characteristics. The four categorizations of object have been set to analyze expression characteristics and study the applicability of each case. (Results) Through the introduction of various presentation methods with expression characteristics according to the four categories of object, a mysterious and unique feeling can be obtained when such methods are applied to the product in various ways. In the pattern category, it was found that the overturning of locational function, symbols, borrowing and imitation of objects were mainly used, and it can be said that the presenting technique can be applied together with modification, distortion, and unrealistic arrangement. Symbolic category is presented with traces, auditory images, text, and color placement left by objects due to weakened special images, or can be intended for apperception using interaction and digital means, through imaginary images on a screen with hyper realistic depiction and patchwork, as well as other various technique expressions. The formative category can be intended to produce a theme of illusionary expression or present flexible scenes such as floors, ceilings, walls, lighting, furniture and decorations, as a device element through expressions such as collage, papier colle, readymade, assemblage, and junk art. As for space presentment characteristic, products can be presented through scale modification such as hanging, casting, arbitrary arrangement, optical illusions, and decorative functions. (Conclusions) It can be presented in more active and differentiated manners. The three-dimensional shapes will show the formative characteristics of the product through the introduction of new materials and the use of space, and the diverse applications of inner space elements such as interior, upholstery, and also apparel and accessory will be accelerated in integration through multi disciplinary methods in medium and technique. The recent designs can be studied for various methods through new approaches of object.

텍스타일디자인의 연출특성과 오브제의 관계성에 관한 연구

허지혜 ( Huh Jihye ) 한국공간디자인학회 2020 한국공간디자인학회논문집 Vol.15 No.7

(Background and Purpose) Current textile design places an added emphasis on individual's lifestyle, and creative directing which suits the trends is presently demanded amid increased demand for various types of personality which takes the user aspect into consideration. Based on that, it would be necessary to investigate the directing characteristics of textile design and the applicability through analysis of relationship in order to expand the representation of objets that can interact sensibly with perceivable objects (Methodology) This study will identify the relationship concept between textile design and objet through literature study for the analysis of the relationship between textile design and objet and analyze the displayed-focused expression characteristic through type and element analysis based on the preceding studies. Based on this, the study will withdraw the similar type characteristic by extracting the display expression element. The study will research the relationship and extensibility through the expressive characteristics of textile design centered on display and the multi-sensual elements of objets. (Results) When the relationship between the objets and the directing characteristics of textile design is analyzed, it can be found that there is a relationship between the external space, internal space, and complex space elements in the spatial type of objets and the spatial aspects of textile design, and that the spatial directing can be achieved through three-dimensional expressive elements of objets and formative aspects of textile design. Fiber materials can be developed through the medium and materials of objets, and the multifaceted methods for fiber expression through the type of expression can be intended. This suggests that the interior textiles can be expressed through the expression medium and material of objets, fiber technique and expression technique, while the directing of preferential type can be achieved on the basis of the shape, color, and arrangement according to the properties of materials. The constructive elements of the directing type can form the space according to the user and the directing type of product. Moreover, a new transformation can be intended through the methods of expression such as surface treatment of fiber, position and size of objects, and color variation. An examination of the relationship between the directing characteristics of textile design and the objets shows that the characteristics of types and elements are interrelated, intimate, and associated. (Conclusion) That could represent specific directing methods for textile design or be interpreted as another meaning, and expressed as perceptual types and elements. Both sides of objects satisfy the expressive and sentimental objectivity, given the expansion of expression medium and the materials and the close relationship of the expressed patterns through the type elements of textile design and specific elements of objets.

소재의 적정가공을 통한 인테리어 텍스타일디자인 개발

허지혜 ( Huh Jihye ) 한국공간디자인학회 2020 한국공간디자인학회논문집 Vol.15 No.8

(Background and Purpose) Textile materials reflect the social background of the times. Products that evoke human emotions are recently in demand as customers increasingly prefer personalized and diversified products. As the motifs of dots, lines, and plane have strong communication capabilities for visual transmission, they were expressed through combination with graphic formation principle and application of appropriate processing that applied the characteristics of the materials so as to transform the material quality of surface based on each composition, shape, and arrangement. This study is significant as it developed the textile design for interiors that highlighted the texture through material processing experiments. (Method) In this study, the unique texture of the surface was intended to be realized, depending on the characteristics and processing of materials based on the motifs of dots, lines, and plane, the geometric figures. The deformation of the material appearance was investigated by expressing the images of dots, lines and planes, the geometric shape, with heterogeneous combination of materials that underwent the process of deformation, thermal contraction and melting processing applying the heat and pressure, depending on the materials, such a metal textile, jersey, suede, neoprene, polyurethane(PU), PVC, ramipick film, etc, in order to demonstrate chemical reactions and effect by the properties of materials through deformation, laser cutting and transfer printing, thermal compression, coating and laminating processing based on heat workability, using special materials. (Results) We intended to expand the possibility of emotional expression and the exterior surface of the materials that underwent appropriate processing, depending on properties of materials, through thermal compression and laser cutting, coating and laminating processing by applying physical and chemical properties of textile for material quality transformation of textile surface based on understanding of materials, and to create the texture of creative materials. Visual effects and design of various directing elements of the spatial interior can be attempted by expanding possible range of water resistance and surface material transformation through application of heat press and compression, laser cutting, laminating, coating processing, etc., among existing textile processing methods on the basis of understanding of re-recognized textile processing. (Conclusion) Interior textile design in the modern industry has found wide-ranging applications to all parts that can be found in everyday life, including the wallpaper, bedding, curtains, wrapping paper, accessories, book covers, and bowls. As the methods applying differentiation strategies are required for production of textile design products for interiors to create multi-faceted space, the planning and design for unique texture or novelty should be conducted concurrently, which apply the appropriate technology that copes with the changes of the times and environment and enables diverse directing suited for preferences of consumers.