연구논문 : 스키타이 의복에 대한 연구 1 - 흑해 북쪽 지역 스키타이인을 중심으로 -

장영수 ( Youngsoo Yi Chang ) 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.2

The purpose of this study is to examine the form of the clothing of the Scythians who lived in the northern region of the Black Sea. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and catalogs of Scythian exhibitions held in Germany, a country where famous Scythian research was collected and analyzed. Results of this study are as follows: Regarding the basic form, there was no change in the appearance of the Scythian clothes which can be linked to social classes and regional background. But the detailing of the clothes changed. Russian archaeologist Klocko has stated that decorative bands of ancient costume appear to depend on the construction of ancient clothing. I have analyzed the upperjacket of Scythians with the decorative bands based on the research of Klocko. From this analysis could be observed that decorative bands of upperjacket had also been varied depending on their region and their social status. The decoration of the revers of upperjacket differs according to social status. According to their width, trousers were classified in types; in narrow and wide. The basic set up of the narrow-type is as follows: the trouser is divided into voluminous straight forms and leggings in close contact with the legs. The width of a trouser differs according to the social status of Scythians and from the region where they lived. Regional differences could be observed more significantly, than differences resulting from social status.

스키타이 복식 연구 II - 페르시아 왕조 부조에 묘사된 스키타이인을 중심으로 -

장영수,Yi-Chang, Youngsoo 한국의상디자인학회 2016 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.18 No.1

The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

페르시아 아케메네스(Achaemenes)왕조 비수툰(Bisotun) 부조에 묘사된 복식 연구

장영수(Youngsoo Yi-Chang) 한국의상디자인학회 2008 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.10 No.1

스키타이 복식 연구 Ⅱ

장영수(Youngsoo Yi-Chang) 한국의상디자인학회 2016 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.18 No.1

스키타이 복식 연구 III-알타이 파지리크 지역 스키타이인을 중심으로-

장영수 ( Youngsoo Yi-chang ) 한국의류산업학회 2016 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.18 No.4

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

프리기아[Phrygia] 모자에 대한 연구

장영수(Yi-Chang Youngsoo) 한국복식학회 2005 服飾 Vol.55 No.4

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.