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장서각 소장 군영 자료로 본 조선 후기 삼군영의 군사 복식 보급
염정하(Yum, Jung-ha) 한국학중앙연구원 2019 장서각 Vol.0 No.42
한국학중앙연구원 장서각에 소장된 조선 후기 군영 자료는 다양한 군사 정보를 담고 있으며, 이 중 군사의 의생활 문화도 빼놓을 수 없는 주요 정보이다. 이 글에서는 장서각에 소장된 군영등록을 바탕으로 그동안 파악하기 어려웠던 조선 후기 삼군영의 계급별 군사 복식의 보급에 관해 알아보았다. 삼군영의 대장은 왕의 갑주를 사여 받아 착용하거나, 고급재료의 갑주를 착용하였다. 중군 이하 장관과 장교는 주로 단갑주 등을 착용하였다. 훈련도감의 군병은 병종에 따라 갑주를 보급받았으며, 어영청과 금위영에서는 각 상황과 수행 위치에 따라 갑주를 보급받아 착용하였다. 삼군영의 장관과 장교는 군복값과 전대용 남방사주, 전립용 상모를 지급받아 군복을 마련하였다. 각 군영의 재정과 운영 상황에 따라 지급 기준에 약간씩 차이가 나타났다. 훈련도감은 대다수 군병에게 군복을 지급하였으나, 어영청과 금위영에서는 행행과 관련된 군병을 중심으로 군복을 지급하였다. 그리고 각 군병은 시위하는 대상에 따라 지급받는 군복값이 달랐다. 이 글을 기반으로 장서각 소장 군영 관련 문헌을 참고하여 더욱 다양한 군사의 의생활 문화에 관한 연구가 지속되길 기대한다. The Military Camps-Related Documents at the Jangseogak archives of the Academy of Korean Studies includes a variety of military information and military clothing life culture is one of the main information among them. This study aims to look into the distribution of the Military Costumes in the Late Joseon Dynasty based on the Military offices’ Deung’rok Registers, a collection of materials from Jangseogak archives. The captain of Three Military Camps wore high-quality armor or the one bestowed upon them by the king. Low-rank graded officials and civilian employees of military force wore a studded coat type armor called Dangap (緞甲) and a helmet with ear flaps. Soldiers at Hun’ryeon Dogam were supplied with armor according to their roles while those at Eo’yeong-cheong and Geum’wiyeong were supplied according to their respective situations and locations of operations. Ministers and Officers of military force of Three Military Camps received sashes, helmets and the expenses for their uniform. Each Military Camp provided different equipment basis of issue was varied according to the financial and operational situations of each Military Camp. Hun’ryeon Dogam issued most soldiers with uniform, however, Eo’yeong-cheong and Geum’wiyeong supplied uniform to the soldiers those who participated in parades. Also, the different expenses were offered to each soldier according to whom they escorted. It is hoped that there will be more diverse studies on military clothing life culture based on Military Camps-Related Documents at the Jangseogak archives.
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조선 중·후기 훈련도감(訓鍊都監)의 군사복식에 관한 연구
염정하(Jung Ha Yum),조우현(Woo Hyun Cho) 한국복식학회 2013 服飾 Vol.63 No.8
This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.
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독일 상트 오틸리엔 선교분도수도원 선교박물관 소장 갑옷에 관한 기초연구
조우현(Woo Hyun Cho),염정하(Jung Ha Yum),BeckersKim영자(Young Ja Beckers Kim) 한국복식학회 2015 服飾 Vol.65 No.3
This is a basic study of the two remaining armors (artifacts number K2366, K2368) from the late Joseon dynasty that is part of the Korean costume collection, which is preserved in the Mission Museum of Saint Ottilien in Germany. The armor No. 1 (artifacts number K2366) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs. It has a U-shaped neckline with the non-overlapping collars and sleeve straight-lined inseam. The armor No. 1 has the Mu to the sides and is not back slit. Both its inner and outer material are padded with cotton. Leather mails are attached on the inner lining, and studs are attached on the outer lining to match the leather mails. For this reason, the armor No. 1 can be named MyeonPiGab (brass studded armor consisting of a cotton coat with internal leather mails). The outer material is faded to have the natural white, or antique white look and the patterns on it are indigo blue. The inner material is blue, but the original color is unknown since it is faded. The lotus blossoms and vine patterns are dyed on the surface of the outer material and a name is written on the inner material. The armor No. 1 was worn between the late 17th century and the 19th century. It is estimated that it was worn by military officers who were above the mid-rank in the end of the Joseon dynasty. The armor No. 2 (artifacts number K2368) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs and a low-cut U-shaped neckline. The armor No. 2 has a slit on the left armpit and a string around it. Studs are evenly attached on the armor. The iron mails are attached to the left chest area on its inner lining. It seems that it was designed with both formality and functionality in mind. The outer material is red flannel, the inner material is blue satin and the pads are cheesecloth. The side of its collars, cuffs, front lines, sidelines, back slit, and bottom lines are trimmed with fur. There are armors called “JeonCheolGap (brass studded armor consisting of a felt coat with internal iron mails),” which is similar to the armor No. 2, however, the similarities are limited because they are not made of the same material nor do they follow the same principle of nomenclature.
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