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현대복식에 나타난 매너리즘 (Mannerism) 적 경향에 관한 연구
이정후(Jung Hoo Lee),안선경(Seon Kyung An),양숙희(Sook Hi Yang) 한국복식학회 1997 服飾 Vol.33 No.-
The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political, economical and psychological trends, and was the first modality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time especially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value, the coexistency of conflict, the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncertainty in modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focusing the fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper, the author suggests the Deformation, Ambiguity and Irregularity as the character of manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of Mannerism to the modern costume is followed; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transformation of morphology, the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium. 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogicalities in modern costume are the technique of illusion, structural illogicality and the collage technique.
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