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『~답다』에 내재된 한국 복식 문화의 속성 : 의복에 표현된 성 역할을 중심으로
한명숙 服飾文化學會 2003 服飾文化硏究 Vol.11 No.1
In our culture, the term, "be like", is frequently used. There are expressions such as "feminine-looking dress" and " manly style" relating to this term when we describe the style of clothing. This study addresses the question on which type of garment would be selected under the description of the term, "be-like", in relation to gender. This term reveals the preconception of gender as being feminine or masculine according to the styles and colors of clothes. A group of 362 collage students Seoul and Gyeonggi area was surveyed for the study. The statistical analysis of SPSS 10.1 was applied for analyzing the data, and the significant variances were reviewed by the basic statistics, multi-variate and T-test. The results are as follows: First, the details of clothes imply the preconceived idea of gender. As a result, women's blouses and skirts were selected as the most feminine upper and bottom garments. The Y-shirt and T-shirt were selected as the most masculine upper garments. However, in contrast to the skirts being the most feminine bottom wear, the pants were not significantly recognuzed as the most masculine clothes. Second, the variances of the survey show that the female students are more conscious of the sexual identity expressed in clothes than the male students. Third, the styles of clothes reflect the general understanding of what is considered to be "feminine or not feminine" and "masculine or not masculine". In conclusion, this study has discovered that the certain characteristics of gender are predominantly implicated in the style, length, and color of clothes. Both men and women responded differently in defining their idea of "femininity" and "masculinity" Nevertheless, there still exists strong preconception of what is considered to be feminine or masculine. and it affects the choices people make in selecting clothes.
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韓明淑,羅秀任 복식문화학회 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.4
In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristlcs of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants,. non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors. and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20's or 30's. Formal style is encoded as jacket, vest, idler wear(blouse) , two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-sil-houette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows ; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990's, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various start of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man's wear are popular. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman's role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrier. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer's consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism easiness and naturalness is popular.
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복식의 기호체계 연구 : 항공사 승무원 유니폼을 중심으로
韓明淑 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.6
The objective of this paper is to examine how clothing is presented within society and is perceived by focusing on the roles of the symbolizing process and the symbols based on the symbol and sign theories, and thereby to reveal the structure of such system. In order to do so, Saussure's linguistic symbol theory, and theories of A. Shaff, P. Guiraud, S Ullmann, R. Barthes, etc. have been comparatively examined. Also, by comparaatively analyzing the similarities and differences between the symbol and sign theries, this analysis has been directly applied to the study of the uniforms worn by airline flight attendants in areal life. The results of the study can be summarized as follows. First, the flight attendant uniforms play a role of symbolizing more so than language does. The uniforms also help in the easy perception of the person's occupation, the position within his/her occupation, and his/her social status simultaneously. Second, the flight attendants' uniforms of Korean Airline and Asiana Airline all use the traditional designs of national emblems and thereby express the images of Korea. Third, by expressing the colour patterns tn a way as though both hands are spread opened, the symbol mark of Asiana Airline is of welcome and delight. However, the symbol mark of Korean Airline represents the image of Korea by using the two-comma pattern of the Korean traditional pattern. Fourth, the colours of Asiana Airline flight attendants' attire are a combination of dark warm grey, and dark brown, which emblematizes the earth. Such colour combination presents a classy and refined image. However, the colours of Korean Airline flight attendants' attire are of the airline's symbol colours of red, blue, and navy blue. The dark blue coloured double-button two-piece uniform is accented with red and blue, which presents a fresh and a clean image. And fifth, by choosing the colour of the uniform material that matches the image of the respective airlines, the silhouette and other details are designed; and the patterns and the colours on the symbol mark are used on the scarf, the blouse, neck-tie and other parts of the entire uniform.
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