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대중문화 이론을 통해 본 복식 문화의 연구방법에 대한 연구
엄소희,김문숙 服飾文化學會 1997 복식문화연구 Vol.5 No.1
The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in popular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method of fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Koran popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as: 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic. A and Foucalul. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthropological approach method about C. Geertz's culture. This is to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions(historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental(cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be made up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epepistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic : how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition whic his concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.
갑옷문화원형 재현을 통한 문화콘텐츠 활용에 대한 연구 - 경주 재매정 출토 갑옷을 중심으로 -
조현진 ( Hyun Jin Cho ) 복식문화학회 2021 복식문화연구 Vol.29 No.1
The purpose of this study was to identify the structure and characteristics for the reproduction of the armor in the Unified Silla period, and then reproduce and utilize it as a cultural content. In the armor reproduction project excavated from Jaemaejeong, Gyeongju. Jaemaejeong armor is consisting of Singap (身甲, body armor), Sanggap (裳甲, hip armor), and Sangbakgap (上膊甲, upper arm armor) at the time of excavation. Unlike the armor of the Three Kingdoms period, Singap and Sanggap are separated. Singap is Yangdangsik (裲襠式, side opening method) and Gyunggap (頸甲, gorget) was not unearthed, Sangbakgap was divided into a part that protects the left and right upper arms and a part that protects the chest, so that the unexcavated head and neck cover of the helmet can be protected to the shoulder. In addition, in the case of Chalgap (札甲, lamellar armor), the Oejungsik (外重式, folded from outside to inside) is mainly used, but it is peculiar that Naejungsik (內重式, folded from inside to outside) is used in Sangbakgap of Jaemaejeong armor. It is presumed that this was used as a method to ensure that the armor were closely attached to the human body. In order to design with the parade armor of Gochwidae in Gyeongju based on the reproduced Jaemaejeong armor, the designer’s imagination and historical work of the times were involved due to the characteristics of performance costumes. Reproduced armor as a cultural content should be considered indispensable to simplify and lighten clothing suitable for performances based on the excavated historical armor.
李子淵 服飾文化學會 1999 복식문화연구 Vol.7 No.1
This paper makes a report of Shamans' ritual performed among Korean residents in Japan as socio-historical facts, and this also examines the symbolic meanings of Shamans' costumes. The results are as follows; 1) At the ritual of Jungsip-Wang Maji, Shamans wear Gwandae, Kunbok, Jangsam, Durumaki, and Chima-jugori. These costumes show that their wearers are priests and gods at the same time. 2) The reason why Simbang performs the ritual in different costumes at different Jaechas is that each object-god needs different costumes to represent its different character. 3) Shamans' instruments consist of musical instruments and other instruments. Among the musical instruments are such percussions as Buk, Jing, Janggo and Sulsae. Among other instruments are Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung. 4) Shamans think that the musical instruments have magic powers to dirve out minor demons and invite gods. Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung are thought to be the symbolic instruments representing gods' will.
북미인디안의 환경친화적인 복식 소재에 관한 연구 : 전통복식을 중심으로 Focused on Traditional Costume
朴富珍,韓明淑,南基善 服飾文化學會 1999 복식문화연구 Vol.7 No.1
The purpose of this study was to identify the origin of diversity of costume material caused by environmental difference. For this purpose, this research involved theoretical studies and studies based on historical data obtained from previous related studies. The common truth was proved that environmental including the geographical distribution of plants and animals determines costume material. Also, It was found that the unique traditional costume styles were developed through unique combination of costume material and their culture. The major results of this study are as follows: 1. The traditional costume of North American Indian was well-developed and closely related to geographical distribution of plants and animals. Also, their costume was so diverse that it could not be categirized. 2. The traditional costume of North American Indian showed ideal har mony between nature and human being by using surrounding environment into their costume. 3. The application of plants and animal materials into their costume was one of the environment- friendly human activity and it seems to give us an important message.
이자연 服飾文化學會 2002 복식문화연구 Vol.10 No.3
This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country leader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for acception the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon of Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.
한국 현대복식에 나타난 일본 패션의 영향 : 여대생을 중심으로(1998년) Focused on College Women(1998)
朴吉順,金瑞姸 服飾文化學會 1999 복식문화연구 Vol.7 No.1
The results of this study are as follows: 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfreindly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of 'school girl-look', 'Avant-garde', punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.
李子淵 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.5
This paper examines Haniwa costume inthe Hoboon period of Japan. The results are as follows. 1. Haniwa costume consisted of two pieces, the upper one and the lower one: Man wore Jacket and Pants, woman wore Jacket and Skirt: besides, they wore several ornaments such as hats, necklaces, earings, bracelets. 2. When it was introduced, tow-piece costume signified, symbolically, the authority of the chieftain and his near men wore it. 3. Before it was introduced, their proper costume had been the same kind of costume as Whoengpok-costume and Hwandu-costume, which was the primitive costume in the South counties. That costume was fit both for the hot and wet nature of Japan and for the working lower-class, so it was continuously worn by the lower-class after two-piece costume had been introduced. 4. In the Goboon period of Japan, a unified goverment with the class ruling was established for the first time. Thus, this social order was refected in costume as a whole, and costume had such class-oriented features.