대중문화 이론을 통해 본 복식 문화의 연구방법에 대한 연구

엄소희,김문숙 服飾文化學會 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.1

The purpose of this study is to present the study method in order to analysis the fashion phenomena in popular culture by popular culture theory. The method of this study is showed the method of fashion culture, after it was examined that the trends of popular cultural method, the type of Koran popular culture discussion, and the relationship of fashion and popular culture. The results of this study are following as: 1. Analysis of this study are structuralism stand and culturalism stand, and the application of criticism about the cultural technology in a new stand by means of the composition of Gramscic. A and Foucalul. 2. Application of the ethnographic access method as anthropological approach method about C. Geertz's culture. This is to describe and interpret the practice of subject through directive observation and conduct on a spot, thus is likely to be useful in the fashion study. 3. It needs a historical access method for that purpose, If it applicate Weber's methodology, it will have the use of both meaning interpretation and explanation of cause and effect on the basis of realistic conditions(historical data), and would appear that the peculiar apportunity of mental(cultural) progressional process became definitive explanation. 4. It must be made up of the discussion (which is) based on the durability of tradition and culture. It is undeniable that the discussion, which related to popular culture up to the present, showed the disconnectedness of the past tradition and culture, and naturally accepts it's connection to epepistemology. The cultural study is a theory interested in what it brings about, what way it's organized and what way it's used. The research of the fashion's connection to popular culture is composed of such topic : how fashion is produces, how it is consumed, and then, the proposition whic his concerned in what meaning it produce is made up of. The regulation of the realm of this research will be to help a researcher explain where to begin and how to do it. Although this cultural study method is more or less quantitative, or despite the expense of the accuracy of statistical analysis, this means that such method of cultural research needs to give attention to both aspects of phenomena and basic problems.

중년 남성 수트 디자인 요소에 따른 이미지의 시각적 효과에 관한 연구

복식문화학회 복식문화학회 2002 服飾文化硏究 Vol.10 No.6

힙합의 문화적 성격과 관련한 힙합 패션의 특성 연구

김서연,박길순,정현숙 복식문화학회 2001 服飾文化硏究 Vol.9 No.5

The purpose of this study was to make hip-hop clear as a comprehensive cultural factor, and to analyze how it was reflected and shown in the modern fashion. The fashion influenced by hip-hop consisted of music(mcing), dance(b-boying), art(graffiti), technology(djing), and clothing(hip-hop style) was as fallows; 1.Each music, dance, and art factor was expressed as multiethnic style, a oversized sportive style, and a graffiti look. 2.Oversized-Sportive style was the most peculiarity in Old School's hip-hop fashion. 3.Sportive style was changed into Multiethnic-Baggy style in New School's hip-hop fashion. Key words: mcing, b-boying, graffiti, djing, hip hop.

日本 飛鳥時代의 服飾에 관한 연구 : 支配者層과 被支配者層의 服飾을 중심으로 Focusing on the Ruling Classes' and the Ruled Classes' Costumes

이자연 服飾文化學會 2002 服飾文化硏究 Vol.10 No.3

This study is to examine the costume and features in Asuka period and the results are as follows. Asuka period is the time that the country leader positively imported the continental civilization, founded a new country organization in political society and accepted Buddhism and exerted his best passion for its thriving. As the result of examining the costume and features of Asuka period when the requirement for acception the foreign culture was met via the present costume regulation and relics material, it was found that the costume had a considerable difference between of the ruling classes with government official and noble as the center and the common people. As for the costume of the ruling-classed official and noble, Korean and Chinese costume regulation was introduced, court dress, ceremonial dress, and uniform were dressed. The composition of costume with introduction of new clothes including Wio, Baedang, Seup, Pil, Kyongsang, for the ruling classes was diversified as well. As the result of looking the clothes for the present ruling classes via the existing and the contemporary relics, it was found that the clothes consisted of Eui and Gon of Eui and Sang style in principle and Po with Banryung or Sooryung was worn over what. However, for the common people, mainly man wore Eui and Gon and woman Eui and Sang, which was the traditional costume style in the ancient tomb days.

17世紀 服飾디자인화에 관한 硏究

이순홍,황수정 服飾文化學會 1994 服飾文化硏究 Vol.2 No.2

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing". Fashion illustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a 'mirror of costumes' in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into ist characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those day. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonnar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The Characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows: 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustration of 17th century showed strong realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes' record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the frist on e of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar's ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description likde accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion illustrations for working class were under the influence of Netherland style. They were designed for the purpose of good function and much use. That's why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation ,the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time. they were supplied widely and it may be and attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistis expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

우리나라 여성복식의 변화에 미친 요인 연구 : 1945~1960년을 중심으로

박길순 服飾文化學會 1993 服飾文化硏究 Vol.1 No.1

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornmentns, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15, 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski's "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change's elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has a great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liberation on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women's way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during the Korean War, returning of the oversea's brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization. and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the ecomonic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the insrease of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society. In this respect, a study of the history of costume should be changed to the study of the various factors of the cultural change of the society.

청소년의 종가 생활문화 현장학습프로그램 개발을 위한 종가 복식문화 사례 연구 -전남 함평 종가를 대상으로-

서리나,유명의 복식문화학회 2003 服飾文化硏究 Vol.11 No.5

종교 전파에 따른 복식 변용에 대한 연구 -인도, 인도네시아 복식에 반영된 이슬람 복식의 영향을 중심으로-

신혜성 ( Hey Sung Shin ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.3

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

북미인디안의 환경친화적인 복식 소재에 관한 연구 : 전통복식을 중심으로 Focused on Traditional Costume

朴富珍,韓明淑,南基善 服飾文化學會 1999 服飾文化硏究 Vol.7 No.1

The purpose of this study was to identify the origin of diversity of costume material caused by environmental difference. For this purpose, this research involved theoretical studies and studies based on historical data obtained from previous related studies. The common truth was proved that environmental including the geographical distribution of plants and animals determines costume material. Also, It was found that the unique traditional costume styles were developed through unique combination of costume material and their culture. The major results of this study are as follows: 1. The traditional costume of North American Indian was well-developed and closely related to geographical distribution of plants and animals. Also, their costume was so diverse that it could not be categirized. 2. The traditional costume of North American Indian showed ideal har mony between nature and human being by using surrounding environment into their costume. 3. The application of plants and animal materials into their costume was one of the environment- friendly human activity and it seems to give us an important message.

확장문화개념에서의 90년대 유행 Fashion의 경향에 대한 연구

李銀永 복식문화학회 1997 服飾文化硏究 Vol.5 No.4

Now, this time we regarde as daylife is a part of culture in novelty view of modern culture study. Specially, we can see terms about style surfing supermarket style through visulization process for critic, combination, reconstruction, of modernism, that is post modernism. Not new style show up any more but displayed union of past style history complex, slices of decoration series. A designer group called as memphis, they designed such like that. Our view for fashion could be new in the technology, mixed media, cyber situation is stimulated us and accepted In extened concept of culture. In this study, I aproched as a view of streetism cyber punkism haute haute couture Romanticism linked extension concept of culture. Haute couture fashion has the most historical, and constructive and decorative aspects, and regarded as principle of construction of deconstruction. And this season trend is romantic & emotional image are complexed.