국내·외 패션협회의 역할 비교를 통한 제언

전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2017 한국의류학회지 Vol.41 No.1

The rapid growth of the Korean fashion industry has contributed greatly to the establishment of various fashion associations that have appeared since the 1960s. Seoul Fashion Week celebrated its 20th anniversary; there is now a crucial opportunity for the role of Korean fashion associations to the world`s top five fashion collections. This study examines and compares the various roles of Korean fashion associations and the fashion associations of France, Italy, USA, and UK. Based on the comparison results, suggestions for the roles of Korean fashion associations are as follows. The following three roles are important in both Korean and foreign associations: stable operation of collections, the creation of various funds to support fashion designers, and foster new designers through linkage with the education programs for textiles and design. Mutual cooperation among various associations is essential to achieve future goals. The specific activities of foreign associations are highly suggestive for direction. In addition to the pursuit of members` rights, it is also desirable to conduct various social activities. It is necessary to create various events that ordinary citizens and students can enjoy in addition to achieving the goal of promoting and selling products at the Seoul Fashion Week. In order to overcome various difficult situations facing Korea and to prepare for a great leap forward for the fashion industry, Korean fashion associations should spare no effort to overcome mutually conflicting interests and understand other perspectives from a macro perspective.

보급형 3D 프린터를 활용한 착용형 패션 프로토타입 개발

전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2017 한국의류학회지 Vol.41 No.3

In this study, three kinds of wearable fashion prototypes were developed using 3D printers with the goal of developing a practical production method for daily clothes. Prototypes were modeled using Rhinoceros software and developed using FDM 3D printers and TPU filaments. The results of this study are as follows. First, it confirmed the possibility of FDM-type entry-level 3D printers as a tool to develop wearable fashion products. Second, TPU filaments that are soft and ductile are highly likely to be used as a clothing material. Third, patterns designed through the 3D modeling process can be sampled directly to a 3D printer and easily corrected and supplemented. Fourth, it was confirmed that TPU prints of about 1.00mm thickness can be sewn with fabric using sewing machines through the development of `Prototype 1` and `Prototype 2`; in addition, hand stitching is also possible. Fifth, as in the case of `Prototype 3`, it is possible to fabricate a garment fit enough to the body if the clothing configuration is designed to connect the basic module using TPU filaments. In the future, the development of wearable fashion prototypes using various materials and 3D printing technology will help diversify everyday clothes.

카툰과 웹툰 속에 나타나는 이성주의 복식과 탈코르셋에 관한 고찰

유희은 ( Hee-eun Yoo ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.6

The “Escape the corset” movement raises the question of gender norms in dressing by rejecting the socially established ideal women's clothing. The context is similar to Rational dress of the 19th century, which claimed that women could also wear pants. Cartoons and webtoons reflect the characteristics of each era, including images and stories, and express social problems of the time implicitly and satirically. Thus, this study examined women's clothes expressed in cartoons and webtoons and analyzed their characteristics. The results are as follows. As an expression to the recipient of both clothes, women tried to form their identity through a rational attitude and break away from their embellishment, which was regarded as oppression from society. On the other hand, as an expression of the attitude of others towards the recipient of both clothes, people argued the changed appearance of women as a non-ideal form which should be corrected. This study is significant for proving that the dressing contains gender norms of the time beyond the trends.

뉴스가치 평가 기준에 따른 패션 뉴스 분석 -온라인 패션 뉴스를 중심으로-

이지선 ( Jisun Lee ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.2

Today, false news is increasing in volume, and fashion news often circulates uncritically. Therefore, an evaluation framework is needed to determine whether fashion news is accurate or good. In journalism, the judgment of good news is made through the criterion of news value factors. These factors are the criteria for assessing the likelihood of an event being reported in the news. Through the study of news value by various journalistic scholars, this study selected nine news value factors applicable to the value measurement of fashion news as the framework of analysis. Based on this, after analyzing the actual news on online fashion media, new characteristics and content were reconstructed for fashion news. As a result of the study, it was finally selected that the crucial factors were: expertise, social importance, timelessness, conflict, and negativity for measuring the value of fashion news. To assess the news value of fashion accurately, this study found that reconceptualized news values are needed, which are different from the news values of general journalism. The study is meaningful in that it explores elements and content for the development of a theoretical framework for the qualitative evaluation of fashion news.

슬로 패션의 가치를 지향하는 디자이너 브랜드 분석 -John Alexander Skelton과 Geoffrey B. Small을 중심으로-

홍준영 ( Junyoung Hong ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2021 한국의류학회지 Vol.45 No.1

‘Slow fashion’ has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

뷔욕(Björk)의 패션에 나타난 음악 메시지

정희경 ( Jung Heekyung ),전재훈 ( Chun Jaehoon ) 한국패션디자인학회 2021 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.21 No.3

Icelandic pop singer Björk is an artist who has visualized her unique musical world by presenting artistic fashion images through audio-visual materials. The study selects her latest albums 『Vulnicura』(2015) and 『Utopia』(2017), analyzed the connection between the fashion images shown in the music videos, album covers, stage costumes, pictorials and the music messages expressed in the theme, lyrics, and sound of the albums. Based on the literature studies on Björk, ‘identity, ‘emotion’, and ‘artist’s visions’ were derived as perspectives of analysis and identity was subdivided into ‘Icelandic identity’ and ‘feminine identity’ and the artist’s vision was subdivided into ‘the harmony of nature and technology’ and ‘Feminism’. As for the results of the study, first, Icelandic identity was expressed in surreal lyrics and song titles influenced by Icelandic traditional literature, and visualized as images of body and fashion superimposed on Iceland’s natural environment. Feminine identity was expressed in lyrics from various women’s perspectives and visualized with images of a vulva. Second, ‘sublimation of sadness’ and ‘passionate love’ were the most pronounced emotions, expressed in lyrics, melodies, and instrumental performances. The visualization of emotions was expressed in light and color properties, materials, and processing methods, and was emphasized through grotesque settings. Third, the harmony of nature and technology was expressed through the combination of organic and electronic sounds and visualized using the latest fusion and composite media such as 3D printed costumes, kinetic dresses, and VR images. Feminism was expressed with lyrics criticizing patriarchy and images of hybrid fashion. This study deals with fashion as an expressive tool of music, expanding the scope of pop star fashion research that has been discussed in the subculture categories. The significance of the research is that it shed light on the artistry of fashion and the scalability of expression through music message analysis expressed in fashion.

패션산업의 법적 보호와 소송 동향 -한국과 미국의 사례를 중심으로-

이지선 ( Jisun Lee ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류학회 2020 한국의류학회지 Vol.44 No.6

This study focused on the increasing fashion industry disputes that have resulted from the development of technology and industry. This study examines the improvement of domestic law, along with U.S. precedents that represents a larger fashion market and more legislative cases than Korea. Analyzing previous studies in Korea and the U.S. for theoretical background, it has uncovered limitations that apply to fashion design-related cases, rather than entire lawsuits involving various fashion industries. This study divided litigation into lawsuits involving products, human resources, and other lawsuits (such as incidents such as breach of contract, and portrait rights). Therefore, most lawsuits are related to products because of false socio-cultural perceptions about design imitation in the fashion industry. Lawsuits related to human resources are expected to arise due to the expansion of the Korean fashion industry and the expansion of overseas markets. Finally, new and unexpected conflicts will arise as the environment and social structure diversify. The importance of this study is that real case analysis can help reduce disputes because it can resolve legal instability due to the ambiguity of the interpretation of current law and suggest implications for dispute resolution.

중국, 태국, 인도네시아의 소셜미디어 뷰티 콘텐츠 분석

허유선 ( Yusun Her ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류산업학회 2021 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.23 No.3

This study examined the influence of social media on the beauty industry and analyzed beauty-related content on social media in China, Thailand, and Indonesia. The existing literature was reviewed and four social media platforms that display the active sharing of beauty-related content in the three stated countries were selected. Five information sources were then chosen from each social media platform and 115 top posts from these sources analyzed. Beauty-related material was shared on discrete social media platforms in the three countries. Differences were found in the presentation types, themes, and message strategies of the content depending on the type of product and services provided by each social media platform. The content on Xiao Hongshu in China consisted of images showcasing product specifications along with a focus on honest and detailed empirical product review messages from its general users. From Taobao Zibo, Wang Hong conveyed powerful and influential information that communicated instantly with viewers and delivered entertaining and sensory messages. In Thailand earnest reviews of beauty products were offered, along with firsthand testimonials through traditional content uploaded on YouTube. In Indonesia, beauty influencers posted creative and sensational photographs of makeup products on image-centered Instagram. This study expands the current scholarship on social media platforms and extends the scope of the extant research on beauty-related content in Asian countries. The practical implications of this study include useful indications on how beauty brands can use social media to promote their products.

유튜브 패션 콘텐츠에 나타나는 비거니즘

정지운 ( Jiwoon Jeong ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류산업학회 2021 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.23 No.1

This study analyzes the fashion video content of vegan YouTubers in order to understand how the vegan message is being conveyed in media. This study collected data with NoxInfluencer and conducted a case study of the vegan fashion YouTube content. We collected 143 videos for analysis as follows. The characteristics of vegan fashion content were divided into six categories. First, fashion know-how consisted of YouTubers’ explanation on vegan fashion, from styling to where to buy vegan and fair trade products. Second, fashion haul content showed second hand products as well as certified vegan fashion products. Third, fashion daily life focused on a day in the life of a vegan YouTuber, casually showcasing fashion in real life. Fourth, fashion products reviews were about vegan YouTubers’ thoughts and concerns about various vegan fashion brands and products. Fifth, fashion coordination category consisted of Lookbooks according to seasons. Last, the fashion entertainment category showed YouTubers challenging themselves to dress outside of their comfort zone. The content of the message was distinguished by consumption methods and aesthetic interaction. Also, vegan YouTubers were always anticipating the possibility of appealing to a wider demographic. This study differs from existing studies because it analyzed fashion YouTube content in order to understand the spread of a vegan message in the media environment. This study has its significance in suggesting the direction that the vegan community should take in delivering vegan messages in the future.

소셜 미디어 속 패션 플렉스(Flex) 현상의 특성

박주하 ( Juha Park ),전재훈 ( Jaehoon Chun ) 한국의류산업학회 2021 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.23 No.1

This study analyzes the characteristics of fashion flex, which have recently spread on social media. The study was conducted with big data analysis that derived flex keywords from news articles and social media as well as case studies that collected 136 posted images on Instagram to analyze the content. The meaning of flex was positively accepted based on big data results. Flex was also a buzzword frequently used on social media as well as a symbolic meaning when discussing luxury goods or fashion brand experiences. The characteristics of fashion flex in social media were largely divided into three categories. First, conspicuous consumption is considered an active expression of individual fashion tastes or self-oriented consumption and emphasizes individuality through consumption. The second characteristic is that the public actively participates in events or fashion flex challenges. People use similar fashion styles or products to participate in playful social interactions with others using various Instagram functions. Finally, acts of pursuing psychological well-being in social media were used as the term flex in a broad sense and were shown to actively explore fashion-related materials and experiences for individual happiness. This study found that the meaning of existing conspicuous consumption is transforming into positive consumption, such as the expression of taste-based identity or the seeking of fun and psychological well-being. It is also meaningful that fashion has become an effective means to express individuality and taste in expressing flex.