불국사 석가탑 내 발견 금직물(錦織物) 고찰

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

In 1966, Seokgatap pagoda in Bulguksa temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in Sarigong(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like Geum, Neung(twill), Rha(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, Geum fabric from the Seokgatap was closely examined. Geum of seokgatap is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of Geum: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. Geum of Seokgatap was made in the 8th century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the 8-9th century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation Geum silk which was popular in the 7-8th C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of Geum of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the Geum of Seokgatap was used for geumdae(a pouch made of geum) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

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