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    고려시대 과문(窠紋)의 조형성을 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 개발 = Development of Textile Design Using the Formality of Gwamun in the Goryeo Dynasty

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    https://www.riss.kr/link?id=A109414804

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    다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract) kakao i 다국어 번역

    This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs within a defined border. It was particularly popular in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty and in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties. The Gwamun styles found in Goryeo relics are categorized based on the shape of the border into three types: Dan-gwamun, which has a round shape; Danhwa-gwamun, characterized by a round flower shape; and Siche-gwamun, which resembles the end of a persimmonstalk. In this study, three pattern types and nine design motifs were derived from the formative characteristics of Gwamun. These motifs were then used to create unit patterns based on the arrangement techniques of Goryeo Dynasty textiles, resulting in a total of 18 unique textile designs. The color palette utilized corresponds to the 2025 trend colors, and each textile pattern was reinterpreted with modern hues and design methods while maintaining traditional forms and values. The developed textile patterns were incorporated into a Cheollik one-piece design using CLO 3D software. This virtual application confirmed the potential for integrating traditional Goryeo Dynasty patterns into new Hanbok designs. Overall, this work provides valuable insights that contribute to the diversification and global expansion of K-fashion.
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    This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs with...

    This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs within a defined border. It was particularly popular in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty and in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties. The Gwamun styles found in Goryeo relics are categorized based on the shape of the border into three types: Dan-gwamun, which has a round shape; Danhwa-gwamun, characterized by a round flower shape; and Siche-gwamun, which resembles the end of a persimmonstalk. In this study, three pattern types and nine design motifs were derived from the formative characteristics of Gwamun. These motifs were then used to create unit patterns based on the arrangement techniques of Goryeo Dynasty textiles, resulting in a total of 18 unique textile designs. The color palette utilized corresponds to the 2025 trend colors, and each textile pattern was reinterpreted with modern hues and design methods while maintaining traditional forms and values. The developed textile patterns were incorporated into a Cheollik one-piece design using CLO 3D software. This virtual application confirmed the potential for integrating traditional Goryeo Dynasty patterns into new Hanbok designs. Overall, this work provides valuable insights that contribute to the diversification and global expansion of K-fashion.

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    참고문헌 (Reference)

    1 Li, J., "营造法式 2 [Yingzao fashi 2]" China books 2006

    2 김신혜 ; 김은정, "The study on the design of New Hanbok by digital textile printing(DTP)culture resource in Seoul" 20 (20): 97-111, 2017

    3 심연옥, "The patterns on costumes in the Buddhist painting of Goryeo dynasty" 13 (13): 125-143, 2010

    4 Zhao, F., "The general history of Chinese silk" Suzhou University 2005

    5 홍정화 ; 김혜경, "The development of woman's daily Hanbok textile design appling Korea traditional flower pattern" 13 (13): 848-855, 2011

    6 장현주 ; 김소희, "The design development of New Hanbok for infant and children, applying the pattern of sunㆍmoon in Koguryo tomb murals" 20 (20): 23-34, 2017

    7 "Silk of Yuan Dynasty (3)"

    8 "Silk of Yuan Dynasty (1)"

    9 "Silk of Tang Dynasty"

    10 Pressman, L., "Pantone fashion color trend report for New York fashion week"

    1 Li, J., "营造法式 2 [Yingzao fashi 2]" China books 2006

    2 김신혜 ; 김은정, "The study on the design of New Hanbok by digital textile printing(DTP)culture resource in Seoul" 20 (20): 97-111, 2017

    3 심연옥, "The patterns on costumes in the Buddhist painting of Goryeo dynasty" 13 (13): 125-143, 2010

    4 Zhao, F., "The general history of Chinese silk" Suzhou University 2005

    5 홍정화 ; 김혜경, "The development of woman's daily Hanbok textile design appling Korea traditional flower pattern" 13 (13): 848-855, 2011

    6 장현주 ; 김소희, "The design development of New Hanbok for infant and children, applying the pattern of sunㆍmoon in Koguryo tomb murals" 20 (20): 23-34, 2017

    7 "Silk of Yuan Dynasty (3)"

    8 "Silk of Yuan Dynasty (1)"

    9 "Silk of Tang Dynasty"

    10 Pressman, L., "Pantone fashion color trend report for New York fashion week"

    11 Chung, W., "Painting of water-moon avalokiteśvara(1310) at Kagamisinsa" Center for Art Studies 2021

    12 "Mural painting of Yongle Gong"

    13 NRICH, "Korean Traditional Pattern (1. Textile)" Nulwa 2006

    14 강서영 ; 이연규 ; 김정민, "Historical study and 3D visualization of Mrs. Jo Ban's clothing and textile patterns" 48 (48): 193-210, 2024

    15 "Gwamun of Square Style (5)"

    16 "Gwamun of Square Style (3)"

    17 "Gwamun of Square Style (2)"

    18 "Gwamun of Square Style"

    19 "Gwamun of Round Style (4)"

    20 "Gwamun of Round Style (3)"

    21 "Gwamun of Round Style (1)"

    22 National Museum of Korea [NMK]., "Goryeo: The Glory of Korea" National Museum of Korea. National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage 2019

    23 심연옥, "Fabrics and fabric motifs depicted in Goryeo water-moon Avalokitesvara" (273) : 5-33, 2012

    24 최선미 ; 양숙향, "Development of female's ordinary Hanbok design with Korean patchwork image" 9 (9): 145-150, 2007

    25 임린, "Development of New Hanbok women’s pants design applying Korean traditional pants and the toile de jouy(Ⅱ)" 26 (26): 131-146, 2023

    26 허승연 ; 안명숙 ; 차수정, "Development of 3D textile design of New-Hanbok Chulic dress applying Korean traditional floral pattern" 24 (24): 131-146, 2022

    27 김은정 ; 임린, "Development a New Hanbok coat design applying Koh Un’s excavated costumes and the toile de jouy expression" 26 (26): 21-35, 2023

    28 김희령, "Designing New Hanbok products using Saekdong : Using with clo 3D" 46 (46): 945-962, 2022

    29 장현주 ; 고순희, "Children’s daily Hanbok design using the patterns in the Armita Buddhist paintings and Avalokitesvara of the Goryeo period of Korea" 22 (22): 151-165, 2020

    30 Lee, K. A., "A study on the development of modern robe designs using the floral and bird patterns of embroidered Sranchima" Ewha Womans University 2017

    31 Kwon, Y., "A study on the design of women's clothing using patterns side pads of the pillow during the Joseon dynasty" Keimyung University 2022

    32 김민지 ; 김순영, "A study on the design of Saenghwal Hanbok for infants and toddlers using Hubaekje roof-tile patterns" 69 (69): 91-108, 2018

    33 이혜란 ; 김은정, "A study on the design of New Hanbok using Danchung's flower pattern" 20 (20): 5-22, 2017

    34 심준영, "A study on the current status and characteristics of reward Hanbok in crowdfunding" 26 (26): 155-167, 2022

    35 Won, H., "A study on textile design using CAD based on figured fabrics of the Koryo period" Busan University 2001

    36 Yeom, H., "A study on plants patterns represented on the textile of Goryeo and the around countries" Kyungwon University 2008

    37 김지연 ; 김정아, "A study on granpacore textile design using the geometric patterns of traditional textiles" 27 (27): 61-81, 2024

    38 Zhao, F., "A history of Chinese silk art" Cultural Relics Press 2005

    39 신하람 ; 염미선, "A development of digital fashion design utilizing the Gungjung-bojagi of Joseon dynasty" 27 (27): 101-116, 2024

    40 홍수진 ; 김은정 ; 배수정, "A development of Shinhanbok Coat design using lattice window pattern of Huijeongdang, Changdeokgung palace" 24 (24): 121-137, 2022

    41 안보연, "A comparative study on the change in oriental linked pearls pattern" 40 : 243-270, 2007

    42 Sim, Y., "2,000 years of Korean textile design" I.S.A.T 2006

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