라캉의 주이상스 개념을 통한 레이 가와쿠보의 디자인 분석 = Analysis of Rei Kawakubo's Designs Through the Lacanian Jouissance

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study aimeds to reinterpret Jacques Lacan's concept of jouissance as a creative driving force in contemporary fashion design and to analyze Rei Kawakubo's radical designs through this lens. Lacan's jouissance is a complex concept that, transcends general pleasure theory. It has gained attention in sociocultural contexts where conventional phenomena are difficult to explain. This approach has proven especially valuable in analyzing artistic developments that defy interpretation through existing aesthetic theories. In this research, I derived three aspects of jouissance: ‘pleasure of pain’, 'pleasure of forbidden', and 'pleasure of lack'. I then used them to analyzed Rei Kawakubo's designs. Specifically, I systematically analyzed Kawakubo's avant-garde and unconventional designs appearing in each collection by interpreting baffle and uncomfortable designs as ‘pleasure of pain’, departure from existing fashion conventions as 'pleasure of forbidden', and infinite creative drive as 'pleasure of lack'. Regarding the significance of this study, it explored how the concept of 'pleasure', a fundamental human desire, was reflected in contemporary fashion design. It also presents a new perspective that reinterprets jouissance as a fundamental driving force in fashion design. This approach strengthens the view of fashion design as a medium, reflecting human needs and desires. It can contributes to designers exploring more fundamental sources of inspiration in their creative processes. By introducing a psychoanalytic perspective to fashion design research, this approach is expected to present novel possibilities for interdisciplinary research and contribute to expanding the theoretical horizon of fashion design.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 Lacan, J., "Écrits" Saemulgyeol 2019

2 Guervich, J. F., "The jouissance of the other and the prohibition of incest : A Lacanian perspective" 1 (1): 1999

3 Lacan, J., "The Seminar of Jacques Lacan: The Four Fundamental Concepts of Psychoanalysis" W. W. Norton & Company 1998

4 Lacan, J, "The Ethics of Psychoanalysis 1959-1960: The Seminar of Jacques Lacan" Routledge 2013

5 조애리, "Smell and Jouissance : William Faulkner's"A Rose for Emily"" 76 : 141-157, 2020

6 Butler, R., "Rei Kawakubo: For and against fashion" Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2023

7 Bolton, A., "Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons : Art of the In-Between" The MET 2017

8 MacCannell, J. F., "Refashioning jouissance for the age of the imaginary" 37 (37): 167-199, 2016

9 Nobus, D., "Key concepts of Lacanian psychoanalysis" Other Press 1998

10 Braunstein, N. A., "Jouissance: A Lacanian concept" State University of New York Press 2021

11 Samuels, R., "Freud for the Twenty-First Century: The Science of Everyday Life" Springer International Publishing 2019

12 Foster, H., "Compulsive beauty" MIT Press 1993

13 Shreya S., "Comme des Garçons SS97 by Rei Kawakubo"

14 김숙현, "A study on the subject of Jouissance in Lacan's interpretation of Antigone" 38 : 35-69, 2009

15 양정원 ; 이미숙, "A study on the aesthetic identity of modern eroticism fashion from the perspective of Jacques Lacan's unconscious theory : Focusing on jouissance & gaze theory" 27 (27): 124-139, 2023

16 Huh, G. Y., "A study on the aesthetic characteristics of jouissance in contemporary fashion design" Hongik University 2016

17 Kang, J. S., "A study on culture and arts from the perspective of jouissance theory and aura" 17 (17): 125-144, 2021

18 Glowinski, H., "A Compendium of Lacanian Terms" Free Association Books 2001