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      비비안 웨스트우드 패션에 나타난 디자인 액티비즘 = Characteristics of Design Activism in Vivienne Westwood Fashion

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      https://www.riss.kr/link?id=A108415413

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      다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

      This study aims to present a direction for design activism by analyzing Vivienne Westwood’s diverse social participation through fashion design and its meaning. I conducted a literature review to understand the definitions of activism and fashion activism, and examine how the concept of activism is represented in fashion. The examples of Vivienne Westwood’s designs were limited to the men’s wear line and her Red Label collection for ten years from S/S of 2013 to F/W of 2022. The elements of activism found in Vivienne Westwood’s fashion, all based on resistance, can be broken down into 1) communication of identity expression; 2) tradition based on historicism; 3) inclusiveness of value recognition; and 4) satire through parody and humor. Communication reveals itself as an expression of identity through the slogans, graphics, and stage compositions, which convey such messages using various methods, either by exemplifying the themes and inspirations or becoming the subject itself. Tradition shows unique modernization by adding individuality to the traits of historicism and Englishness. Inclusiveness breaks down boundaries by respecting androgyny, contributing to the progress of developing countries, and acknowledging the contribution to the pursuit of public benefits. Satire uses metaphors so that heavy themes can be accepted more easily through humor and parody. Vivienne Westwood also enacts activism through sustainable collections, including the Red Label line. The brand expresses its identity through words and actions, as well as fashion, by posting its ideas in succinct forms on online journals and social media, and taking part in demonstrations and marches.
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      This study aims to present a direction for design activism by analyzing Vivienne Westwood’s diverse social participation through fashion design and its meaning. I conducted a literature review to understand the definitions of activism and fashion ac...

      This study aims to present a direction for design activism by analyzing Vivienne Westwood’s diverse social participation through fashion design and its meaning. I conducted a literature review to understand the definitions of activism and fashion activism, and examine how the concept of activism is represented in fashion. The examples of Vivienne Westwood’s designs were limited to the men’s wear line and her Red Label collection for ten years from S/S of 2013 to F/W of 2022. The elements of activism found in Vivienne Westwood’s fashion, all based on resistance, can be broken down into 1) communication of identity expression; 2) tradition based on historicism; 3) inclusiveness of value recognition; and 4) satire through parody and humor. Communication reveals itself as an expression of identity through the slogans, graphics, and stage compositions, which convey such messages using various methods, either by exemplifying the themes and inspirations or becoming the subject itself. Tradition shows unique modernization by adding individuality to the traits of historicism and Englishness. Inclusiveness breaks down boundaries by respecting androgyny, contributing to the progress of developing countries, and acknowledging the contribution to the pursuit of public benefits. Satire uses metaphors so that heavy themes can be accepted more easily through humor and parody. Vivienne Westwood also enacts activism through sustainable collections, including the Red Label line. The brand expresses its identity through words and actions, as well as fashion, by posting its ideas in succinct forms on online journals and social media, and taking part in demonstrations and marches.

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      참고문헌 (Reference)

      1 신미라 ; 이지현, "해체주의 패션디자인의 단계적 변화와 기호학적 관점의 의미 분석" 한국패션디자인학회 20 (20): 113-129, 2020

      2 안민희 ; 주보림, "패션디자인의 윤리적 지향 가치의 범주화" 한국패션디자인학회 19 (19): 93-105, 2019

      3 고현진, "패션 디자인을 통한 정치·사회적 발언" 한국복식학회 62 (62): 108-124, 2012

      4 김초롱 ; 곽태기, "트라이벌무드 패션경향을 응용한 아트메이크업 개발 연구" 한국패션디자인학회 16 (16): 15-31, 2016

      5 김선영, "콜리나 스트라다의 패션에 나타난 액티비즘의 실천 특성" 한국디자인문화학회 27 (27): 39-53, 2021

      6 김희경, "콘텐츠 액티비즘: 행동하는 콘텐츠" 인문콘텐츠학회 (53) : 35-49, 2019

      7 정수진 ; 임은혁, "지속가능성을 위한 패션 액티비즘 - 소셜 미디어를 중심으로 -" 복식문화학회 28 (28): 815-829, 2020

      8 정수진 ; 임은혁, "소셜 미디어에 나타난 패션 액티비즘 - 이상미 해체 현상을 중심으로 -" 한국패션디자인학회 20 (20): 55-72, 2020

      9 노윤아 ; 이영재, "사회적 역할을 위한 디자인 액티비즘(Design Activism)의 패션유형연구" 한국패션비즈니스학회 21 (21): 1-14, 2017

      10 박길순, "사회․문화적 소외계층을 위한 현대패션의사회적 디자인 연구" 한국생활과학회 27 (27): 471-484, 2018

      1 신미라 ; 이지현, "해체주의 패션디자인의 단계적 변화와 기호학적 관점의 의미 분석" 한국패션디자인학회 20 (20): 113-129, 2020

      2 안민희 ; 주보림, "패션디자인의 윤리적 지향 가치의 범주화" 한국패션디자인학회 19 (19): 93-105, 2019

      3 고현진, "패션 디자인을 통한 정치·사회적 발언" 한국복식학회 62 (62): 108-124, 2012

      4 김초롱 ; 곽태기, "트라이벌무드 패션경향을 응용한 아트메이크업 개발 연구" 한국패션디자인학회 16 (16): 15-31, 2016

      5 김선영, "콜리나 스트라다의 패션에 나타난 액티비즘의 실천 특성" 한국디자인문화학회 27 (27): 39-53, 2021

      6 김희경, "콘텐츠 액티비즘: 행동하는 콘텐츠" 인문콘텐츠학회 (53) : 35-49, 2019

      7 정수진 ; 임은혁, "지속가능성을 위한 패션 액티비즘 - 소셜 미디어를 중심으로 -" 복식문화학회 28 (28): 815-829, 2020

      8 정수진 ; 임은혁, "소셜 미디어에 나타난 패션 액티비즘 - 이상미 해체 현상을 중심으로 -" 한국패션디자인학회 20 (20): 55-72, 2020

      9 노윤아 ; 이영재, "사회적 역할을 위한 디자인 액티비즘(Design Activism)의 패션유형연구" 한국패션비즈니스학회 21 (21): 1-14, 2017

      10 박길순, "사회․문화적 소외계층을 위한 현대패션의사회적 디자인 연구" 한국생활과학회 27 (27): 471-484, 2018

      11 이승옥, "비비안 웨스트우드의 패션디자인과 정치 성향의 관계" 한국의상디자인학회 7 (7): 225-234, 2005

      12 송수원 ; 김민자, "비비안 웨스트우드의 작품 세계에 나타난 영국적 이미지" 한국복식학회 56 (56): 1-16, 2006

      13 김길라 ; 조규화, "비비안 웨스트우드 디자인 硏究- 1980年代 이후를 中心으로 -" 한국패션비즈니스학회 11 (11): 14-31, 2007

      14 박보람, "브랜드 액티비즘 커뮤니케이션에 관한 연구" (사)한국커뮤니케이션디자인협회 커뮤니케이션디자인학회 78 : 23-35, 2022

      15 김혜은, "롤랑 바르트의 기호학을 이용한 슬로건 패션 특성 분석 - 2017년 S/S, F/W 컬렉션의 슬로건 패션을 중심으로 -" 한국패션디자인학회 18 (18): 19-36, 2018

      16 은창익, "디자인 행동주의와 사회적기업의 상관관계에 대한 고찰 - 행동주의 관점에서 -" 한국디지털디자인학회 15 (15): 775-796, 2015

      17 윤지영, "도상해석학 관점에서 고찰한 Vivienne Westwood 패션 작품" 한국복식학회 59 (59): 60-76, 2009

      18 고예지 ; 주보림, "뎀나 바잘리아의 아방가르드 정신에 내재한 패션의 의미" 한국패션디자인학회 21 (21): 137-157, 2021

      19 Tena, "What is Fashion Activism? Deep dive into the meaning, history, and recent examples"

      20 Mame, "Westwood, Vivienne"

      21 윤지영, "Vivienne Westwood 작품에 나타난 여성 인체와 복식의 상징성 연구" 한국의류학회 33 (33): 379-390, 2009

      22 배정민 ; 김영삼, "Vivienne Westwood 작품에 나타난 미적 특성과 다원적 절충주의 분석 연구" 복식문화학회 14 (14): 657-669, 2006

      23 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2021 readyto-wear"

      24 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2018 menswear"

      25 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2018 menswear"

      26 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2018 menswear"

      27 Leitch, L., "Vivienne Westwood spring 2016 menswear"

      28 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2016 menswear"

      29 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2015 menswear"

      30 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2015 menswear"

      31 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2014 menswear"

      32 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood spring 2014 menswear"

      33 Schneier, M., "Vivienne Westwood spring 2013 menswear"

      34 Bobb, B., "Vivienne Westwood says no to fracking with Abba"

      35 Furniss, J., "Vivienne Westwood red label spring 2014 ready-to-wear"

      36 Sigrun, "Vivienne Westwood man spring / summer 2015 collection"

      37 Milligan, L., "Vivienne Westwood king of anarchy"

      38 Tumblr, "Vivienne Westwood fall/winter 2016 collection"

      39 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood fall 2022 ready-towe"

      40 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood fall 2020 ready-towear"

      41 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood fall 2019 ready-towear"

      42 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood fall 2018 menswear"

      43 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood fall 2016 menswear"

      44 Schneier, M., "Vivienne Westwood fall 2014 menswear"

      45 Independent, "Vivienne Westwood drives tank to David Cameron's house in anti-fracking protest"

      46 Fury, A., "Vivienne Westwood catwalk : The complete collections" Thames &Hudson 2021

      47 Livingly, "Vivienne Westwood at London fashion week spring 2014"

      48 Clarke, J. S., "Vivienne Westwood and the ethics of consuming fashion" 25 (25): 199-213, 2016

      49 Vogue, "Vivienne Westwood Red Label fall 2014ready-to-wear"

      50 "Vivienne Westwood"

      51 Wilcox, C., "Vivienne Westwood" V&A Publications 2004

      52 Markussen, T., "The disruptive aesthetics of design activism : Enacting design between art and politics" 29 (29): 38-50, 2013

      53 Jun, M. S., "The change of the global production system in the garment industry and the new global activism" 6 : 16-21, 2009

      54 Yum, H. J., "The aesthetic qualities featured in Vivienne Westwood’s works" 37 : 71-88, 1998

      55 Thompson, C. J., "Speaking of fashion : Consumers' uses of fashion discourses and the appropriation of countervailing cultural meanings" 24 (24): 15-42, 1997

      56 "SS 00 wine stains effect dress"

      57 Jungle Scout, "Report: 58% of consumers are influenced by a brand’s social activism"

      58 Parker, M., "Pamela Anderson and Vivienne Westwood coordinate in crazy paper crow ns during LFW"

      59 Geofferey, L., "Now Dame Dotty's 75, isn’t it time she grew up? Vivienne Westwood's new diaries and incessant name-dropping reveal her to be more pompous, eccentric and hypocritical than ever"

      60 Vogue, "Marine Serre fall 2020 ready-to-wear"

      61 Manzini, E., "Making things happen : Social innovation and design" 30 (30): 57-66, 2014

      62 Rachel Burt, "Journey's Vivienne Westwood let it rock dog portrait"

      63 Francesca Carington, "Happy birthday Vivienne Westwood: Decadence, glamour and fun from the tatler 80s archives"

      64 Biancassalon, "Hapa Na Pale-Vivienne Westwood spring 2013 mens collection"

      65 Hero Magazine, "For Bradley Manning Vivienne Westwood man ss14"

      66 Busch, O. V., "Fashion-able. Hacktivism and engaged fashion design" Johan Öberg 2008

      67 Vargas, M., "Fashion statement or political statement : The use of fashion to express black pride during the civil rights and black power movements of the 1960’s" 5 (5): 95-99, 2009

      68 Miller, J. I., "Fashion and democratic relationships" 37 (37): 3-23, 2005

      69 Hirscher, A. L., "Fashion activism evaluation and application of fashion activism strategies to ease transition towards sustainable consumption behaviour" 17 (17): 23-38, 2013

      70 Met museum, "Ensemble, No. 13, spring/summer 1999"

      71 Vogue, "Eckhaus Latta spring 2021 ready-to-wear"

      72 Madame Figaro, "Défilé Vivienne Westwood Red Label prêt-à-porter printemps-été 2014 diaporama photo"

      73 Faud-Luke, A., "Design activism: Beautiful strangeness for a sustainable world" Misulmunwha 2010

      74 Bobb, B., "Dame Vivienne Westwood locked herself in a giant birdcage to protest Julian Assange’s extradition"

      75 Bohn, C., "Clothing as medium of communication"

      76 lura, G., "Climate revolution, Red Label, Vivienne Westwood"

      77 Burbano, C., "Circus act Vivienne Westwood ss18"

      78 WWD, "Backstage at Vivienne Westwood men’s spring 20"

      79 WWD, "Backstage at Vivienne Westwood fall 2017"

      80 "Aktivismus"

      81 "Activism"

      82 Jiang, B. C., "A study on make-up design of Vivienne Westwood’s deconstruction fashion" 8 (8): 120-127, 2014

      83 Vivienne Westwood, "10 years of artisan. fashion"

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