조선시대 출토복식 중 포류(袍類)의 바대 연구 = A Study on the Ba-dae(patch) on Traditional Robes Excavated from Joseon Dynasty Tombs

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Ba-dae is a patch sewn on areas of clothing worn out from friction or force. Excavated clothing exhibits several types of Ba-dae, but few studies focus on Ba-dae. Therefore, this study analyzes the shapes of Ba-dae from excavated clothing, specifically traditional robes(袍類) from the Joseon Dynasty. It considers 1,062 items categorized as robes from 79 graves (56 men and 23 women) from the 1400s to the 1800s. Among the items were 101 Dan-ryeong (an official’s robe and women’s robe), 117 Jik-lyeong (men’s robes), 73 Dap-ho (men’s robes), 236 Cheol-lik (men’s robes), 60 Do-po (men’s robes), 44 Aek-jureum (men’s half-robes), 124 Jang-ot (men's and women’s robes), and 307 Chang-ui-type clothes (Dae-changui, Jung-chi-mak, and So-changui). Ba-dae is visible on 378 of these items. The analysis categorizes the Ba-dae according to its sewn location, the type of Ba-dae, and the details of its shape. Next, the study investigates the type of clothing to see the differences in the Ba-dae type, shape, and changes to the Ba-dae shape over time. The Ba-dae's types and changes are as follows: The 15th century used the So-yo type Ba-dae and square Ba-dae. The 16th and 17th centuries featured various types of Ba-dae: Hook type, star type, trapezoid type, So-yo type, and ellipse type. In the 18th and 19th centuries the Ba-dae become a simplified square. The trapezoid variant appears on items from the 16th century, and the star type on items from the 17th century.