朝鮮時代 大紅色과 多紅色의 比較硏究 = A Comparative Study on Daehong Color and Dahong Color in the Chosun Dynasty

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study was intended to make clearly known to the succeeding generation the difference in the color and its name of Daehong and Dahong, the most important of 'traditional Korean red color names, with a focus on the records of Sangbangjungrye and Takjijunjeol found in the color names of court clothes and belts and of textiles, of the literature of the Chosun Dynasty. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate dyestuffs and the dyeing method found in the literature such as Sangbangjungrye and Takjijunjeol and apply the resultant diverse dyeing methods to contemporary life. In addition, this study attempted to succeed to and develop the disconnected traditional red color in the contemporary civilization and find out the suggestive points from it.
To make a comparison between Daehong and Dahong colors, this study sought to extract pigments according to the quantities of Safflower found in the literature and dye cloth with it by making changes to pH, the frequency of dyeing and mordants. And an attempt was made to investigate dyeability through their colorimetry and K/S, and all kinds of fastness tests. As a result, the following finding were obtained:
1. The L*a*b values were measured using the colorimetry, and the values of three color attributes such as hue(H), value(V) and chroma(C) were calculated using the transformation method of the Munsell color system. Colors based on the Munsell color system mostly took the red color whose hue ranged from 9.1PR to 3.6R. Their hue ranged from 3.0R to about 3.6R. They had the medium value which ranged from 4.9 to 6.7. They mostly showed the high chroma which ranged from 10.4 to 12.3.
2. An attempt was made to make a K/S measurement of Daehong and Dahong colors. As a result, it was found that the maximum absorption wavelength was 520nm, and that the greater amount of Safflower brought about the higher K/S value. And it was found that the greater frequency of dyeing brought about the higher level of stainability in pH3 than in pH5 and led to the higher K/S value.
3. In analysing the fastness test, the fastness test to dry cleaning showed that Daehong and Dahong colors were excellent as the 4th - 5th class regardless of the amount of Safflower, the frequency of dyeing and pH. In making the fastness test to rubbing, the result of the fastness to dry rubbing showed the 4th-5th class in most cases and the comparatively excellent 4th class in three dyeing processes at pH3 and pH5 in case of Daehong color.
The result of the fastness test to wet dyeing showed the lowest 2nd class in three dyeing processes at pH3 and pH5 in case of Daehong color(17 kuns of Safflower and 13 kuns of Japanese apricot), whereas it showed the most excellent 4th-5th class in one dyeing process in case of Dahong color(9 kuns of Safflower and 8 kuns of fruits of schisandra chinensis). And it showed the even distribution ranging from the 3th class to the 3th - 4th class in the remaining Daehong and Dahong colors. The result of the fastness test to sunlight showed the very low lst class in case of Daehong and Dahong colors.
This study attempted to make a comparition between Daehong and Dahong colors in terms of the amount of Safflower, the kind and amount of mordants, pH and the frequency of dyeing. It was found that the greater amount of Safflower and the low level of ph brought about the dark hue. And it was found that the fastness to sunlight of Safflower had the very low level. From this perspective, it is thought that old ancestors dyed cloth with Safflower several times to create Daehong and Dahong colors.
Consequently, disadvantages inherent in chemical dyestuffs such as harmfulness to the human body, environmental pollution and waste water problems could be resolved if these disadvantages as dyeing materials is supplemented. And it is thought that it not only comes to play a great role in environmental protection but makes possible the restoration of Daehong and Dahong colors, the typical colors of court clothes and belts in the Chosun Dynasty.
In light of the above findings, it can be said that dyeing cloth with Safflower does not stay as one of the past traditional dyeing method of our old ancestors but the field requiring the future active study enabling its popularization in the contemporary textile dyeing industry.