안목해안의 파랑과 흐름 분석 = Analysis of Wave and Current in Anmok Coastal Waters

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about 45° normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• Abstract
• 1. 서론
• 2. 본론
• 3. 결론
• 감사의 글
• References

참고문헌 (Reference)

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3 김창식, "경기만 조석 잔치류 산정 및 변동성" 한국해안,해양공학회 22 (22): 353-360, 2010

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5 Lim, H.S, "Wave-induced current simulated by wave-current coupled model in Haeundae" SI75 : 1392-1396, 2016

6 Lim, H.S, "Variability of residual currents and waves in Haeundae using long-term observed AWAC data" SI72 : 166-172, 2014

7 Gangneong-si, "Report of detailed design on Anmok coastal disaster prevention and restoration project"

8 Elgar, S., "Nearshore sandbar migration" 106 (106): 11623-11627, 2001

9 KIOST, "Annual report of the development of coastal erosion control technology" KIOST 2015

10 Lim, H. S., "Analysis of long-term observed wave and current in Anmok" 63-64, 2016