울/폴리에스터 혼방직물의 혼용율과 직물 구조인자가 의류의 입체성형성에 미치는 영향 = Effect of Blend Ratio and Fabric Structural Factor Affecting Garment Formabilityof Wool/Polyester Blend Fabric

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 Kawabata, S., "The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation"

2 Komatsu, K., "Studies on the prediction of making-up properties of garment-The prediction of making-up properties of men's suit fabrics for summer" 31 : 158-165, 1978

3 Kim, H. A., "Simulation of the weave structural design of synthetic woven fabrics" 11 (11): 905-910, 2010

4 Kim, H. A., "Seam pucker and formability of the worsted fabric" 12 (12): 1099-1105, 2011

5 Morooka, H., "Relations between making-up properties and physical properties of fabrics" 29 : T183-T192, 1976

6 Niwa, M., "Prediction of the appearance of men’s suit from fabric mechanical properties and fabric hand(Part II)-Analysis of men’s summer suit using fabric hand values" 34 : 76-85, 1981

7 Jedda, H., "Prediction of fabric drape using the FAST system" 98 (98): 219-225, 2007

8 Morooka, H., "Physical properties of fabrics relating to making-up and good appearance" 24 (24): 105-114, 1978

9 Lindberg, J., "Part III : Shearing and buckling of various commercial fabrics" 31 (31): 99-122, 1961

10 Niwa, M., "Objective evaluation of the handle of blankets" 71 : 701-710, 2001

11 Postle, R., "Measuring and interpreting low- stress fabric mechanical and surface properties (part III) - Optimization of fabric properties for men’s. Suiting materials" 59 (59): 448-459, 1989

12 Korean Standards Association, "KS K ISO 7770 Test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of seams in fabrics cleansin"

13 Korean Standards Association, "KS K 0558 Test method for dimensional change percentage by ironing of woven and knitted fabrics"

14 Takahashi, K., "Influence of physical properties of wool fabrics on the poor appearance of jacket" 61 (61): 17-21, 2015

15 Shishoo, R., "Fabric tailorability" 2 (2): 64-71, 1990

16 Shishoo, R. L., "Fabric properties and making up processes" 2 : 66-73, 1989

17 Majar, T., "Fabric mechanical and physical properties relevant to clothing manufacture(Part III)-Shape formation in tailoring" 1 (1): 6-13, 1989

18 The CSIRO Division of Wool Technology, "Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing Instruction Manual"

19 Ly, N. G., "Application of the FAST system to the manufacture of fabrics and garments" English International Wool Textile Research Society 370-379, 1990

20 Yamada, Y., "A study on seam puckering(Part II)-Prediction of seam puckering of ladies’ thin dress fabrics based on mechanical properties" 36 (36): 240-248, 1995