조선시대 순조, 고종 년간의 자수·금박 활옷에 대한 연구 = A Study on the 19th Gold Leaf and Embroidery Wedding Hwarot

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study tries to find out the origin, significance and style of pattern by examining gold leaf and embroidery Hwarot which have the unique pattern, color, texture. First Hwarot was made for the wedding of Princess Bokon, second daughter of Soonjo (23rd King of Joseon Dynasty). Second Hwarot is in the collection of the Field Museum, Chicago. (Relic No. 33157) The sketch of embroidery for Hwarot used at the wedding of Princess Deokon (1822-1844), which is similar to above two, will also be examined. Patterns of the gold leaf and embroidery Hwarot symbolize a good fortune, a stipend, a long life, authority, and idleness, which were highly appreciated in Confucian ideology. Most patterns can be categorized into Gilsangmun. They were in a fashion through several era and dynasties. For example, embroidery designs such as hwasokmun (花束紋 - the pattern of a bunch of flowers) are very characteristic. Hwasokmun is a pattern of two or three flowers, which seem to be from the same root or clouds. Such design composition can be also found in patterns of clothes, hyungbae (embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe), and fabrics from Dingling (定陵, a tomb of the Wanli Emperor, Ming Dynasty). Its origin seems to be a Jeoljimun (折枝紋, the pattern of chopped branches) in the Hwajohwa (花鳥畵). Hwajohwa was prevalent in the garden of palace Song and Ming Dynasty. Hwasokmun developed into Payeonmun (把蓮紋) in the blue and white ware which was popular in Qing Dynasty. Special royal craft technique was used for making gold leaf embroidery crafts. Ordinary people could not use gold leaf embroidery because gold leaf was produced by striking pure gold. The technique of Cheopkkeum (貼金, fixing gold leaf on texture) is lost. Nowadays, craftsmen just paste gold leaf on texture. Sticking patterns on the clothes is the final step in the process of gold leaf embroidery. Various types of embroidery needlework have developed from four types of technology system. In this gold leaf embroidered Hwarot, characteristics of palace embroidery is conspicuous. It is prominent to use both color thread and gold thread. It is also prominent to use soksil. Moreover, the effect of jarisu and jaryeonsu are outstanding. Specifically, Jingeomsu embroidery needlework, a method which divides space horizontally/vertically and then sews gold thread, is the best palace embroidery. It expresses abundance of the beauty of color with a silk thread which sheds a dim glow. Gold leaf and embroidery Hwarot is the record of life culture in the palace during 19th century Joseon. The style of Hwarot can be applied to develop creative items in fashion, architecture, design, craft industry. It can also be succeeded to new cultural items for the world market. This study can be expanded to a comparative study on symbolism, origin, original technology and changes of patterns used in royal wedding costume throughout the world.