조선후기 예장용 쓰개류에 관한 고찰 -족두리,화관을 중심으로- = A Study on Headdresses for Ceremony in the Latter Period of Chosun -Focusing on Chok-Du-Ri(簇頭里) - Hwa-Gwan(花冠)-

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study focuses on the ideas that Chok-Du-Ri(簇頭理)·Hwa-Gwan(花冠) are mentioned a substitute preventing abuses of luxury mood by Gache(加遞) as the sharpest social problem at that time. First, the origin of Chok-Du-Ri(簇頭理) was introduced from Ko-Ko-Gwan(古古冠) of Mongo(蒙古) in Korea dynasty, then was linked to Chosun. That is, Ko-Ko(古古) started from headgear reflecting spiritual view of the northen people, its size was getting smaller passing through Ming(明) dynasty, its essential decoration changed and it carried out Jeon-Ja(鈿子) remaining decoration nature by real accessories, then it might be descended to Chosun. Second, Hwa-Gwan(花冠) is very different from Nanaec(暖額) of Chosun Dynasty Records, rather Jeonja, the original form of Chok-Du-Ri, is more similar to it. Third, its decoration like color, jewel, pattern etc influenced wishes of this life like sex, prosperity, glory, longevity, blessing, wealth and fame. Fourth, Chok-Du-Ri(簇頭理) was restored a substitute for Gache(加遞), it was accessory for preventing luxury life, besides it was modeled from headgear in China, Chosun people had it. It is worthwhile as it was based on Chosun Sinocentrism(朝鮮中華主義) in the latter period of Chosun and made it the fruit of that age. Moreover, in those days Qing(淸) society accepted the advanced culture and institutional profit of Qing(淸) actually, social mood is that home and overseas policy was corrected in many parts, Chok-Du-Ri·Hwa-Gwan were mentioned a substitute of Gache, symbol of luxury. It shows one part of Practical Thought that abolishes vanity and affectation and makes useful profits in the latter period of Chosun.