현대 패션에 나타난 동양모드에 관한 연구 = A Study on the Oriental Mode Reflected in Modern Fashion

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

Amultiformity of culture develops acculturation by contacts between different cultures and it leads to achieve the dialectical evolution of civilization. Spreads of characteristics and elements of the oriental dresses to the western dresses by interchanges between them is an important cause of diversity of the westem fashion. Historically, the oriental modes have influenced the westem fashion continuous1y as an element of the westem fashion design. and the power of influence gradually appeared as a subject of issue of the later 20th century`s modern fashion design. The phenomenon is recently shown extensively in the field of designs and fashions, as well as in life-sty1es. It reflects that the understanding of the oriental culture in the western imperialistic viewpoint has radically corrected since capitalism appeared in the later 20th century. In other words, organic ideas of the orient, which emphasis the union of God and man instead of a dichotomy of nature and man by a modem western ration, were stressed and a momentary and fluid consciousness of the moment in Zen became the center on interest. Finally discussions abot the oriental values, including Zen style that is being watched with keen interest of the world, has become a matter of common interest which has been new-highlighted in the western as well as in the orient since it performed as a breakthrough to overcome a limitation of the western culture. Payne and Crawford, the savants of fashion, indicate that spread of specificities and elements of the oriental dresses to the western dresses has hen historically existed from the Roman age, and the introduction of Chinese silks h u & h the Silk Road since A.D.2th century, Crusade War in the 1 1-13th century, the- invention of geography in the 16-17th century, and the establishment of the East Indian Company stimulated the spread and the reception of the oriental culture. The influence of culture of the oriental dresses in this period, however, was mainly shown in textiles and accessories of dresses rather than in the form of a dress, and related studies were already preceded by previous researchers. This study attempt to correct illogicality of term applications and the misinterpretations according to the western imperialistic viewpoint towards the oriental modes in the 20th century (1900-1990) fashion, rather than focusing on the historical background of oriental modes` formation. As presenting characteristics of fashion in each times through diachronic consideration to 1900-1990 and synchronic consideration to specificities in the main times, I aim, or the study, at suggestions and studies abut tern those can serve the flow of the time. Consequently by regulating and analyzing the modern oriental modes, which are shown in various types, this study will prove that the oriental dresses are gradually appearing as a main subject in the western fashion. En addition, it is invaluable as basic data for the modem oriental modes to be growing more and more prosperous as a main subject in fashion, not a temporary fashion, with its variation and life force.