한 시대의 예술양식은 그 시대를 살고 있는 인간의 사회적 환경과 문화적 특성, 미적 가치관과 욕구가 반영되어 있다. 또한 예술양식은 역으로 그 시대를 살아가는 인간에게 영감으로 작용...
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https://www.riss.kr/link?id=T10375741
서울: 동덕여자대학교, 2005
학위논문(박사) -- 동덕여자대학교 패션전문대학원 , 패션학과 패션디자인전공 , 2005
2005
한국어
593.235 판사항(4)
646.724 판사항(21)
서울
xii, 152 p.: 삽화; 26 cm
참고문헌: p. 145-148
0
상세조회0
다운로드국문 초록 (Abstract)
한 시대의 예술양식은 그 시대를 살고 있는 인간의 사회적 환경과 문화적 특성, 미적 가치관과 욕구가 반영되어 있다. 또한 예술양식은 역으로 그 시대를 살아가는 인간에게 영감으로 작용...
한 시대의 예술양식은 그 시대를 살고 있는 인간의 사회적 환경과 문화적 특성, 미적 가치관과 욕구가 반영되어 있다. 또한 예술양식은 역으로 그 시대를 살아가는 인간에게 영감으로 작용하여 사회와 문화의 변화를 유도한다. 따라서 헤어패션 역시 당시대의 예술사조와 상호 영향을 주고받게 되며 그 미적 형태를 공유한다.
산업혁명으로 인한 기계적 대량생산 시대의 도래는 새로운 예술양식과 산업제품의 현대적 디자인을 요구하였고 이를 위한 예술계의 모색은 바우하우스(Bauhaus) 조형운동으로 이어졌다. 바우하우스는 기계에 의한 대량생산을 적극적으로 수용한 조형관을 주창하여 현대 디자인의 선구자의 위치를 차지하고 있으며 후대의 예술사조와 여러 실용예술에 많은 영향을 주었다. 실용예술의 한 분야인 헤어패션 역시 바우하우스가 제시한 새로운 조형이념의 영향을 받은 바가 크다고 할 수 있다. 특히 현대 헤어패션계에서 독보적인 위치를 차지하고 있는 헤어디자이너인 비달 사순(Vidal Sassoon)은 자신의 헤어패션 개념을 정립하는 과정에서 바우하우스로부터 직접적인 영향을 받았다.
바우하우스는 그로피우스에 의해 1919년 독일에서 설립된 조형학교로, 기계적 생산양식의 보급에 대응하여 20세기에 들어서면서 나타나기 시작한 예술계의 응용예술과 산업생산품에 대한 긍정적 태도변화와 당시 유럽 전역에 확산된 사회주의 운동을 그 설립 배경으로 하고 있다. 이 시기의 예술운동들인 러시아 전위미술 운동, 아르데코, 데 스틸 운동 등은 바우하우스와 그 이념을 공유하였으며 기하학적 조형성을 공통된 특징으로 보여주고 있다. 또한 바우하우스에 선행한 독일공작연맹(DWB)은 기계적 대량생산방식을 위한 즉물주의를 제창하여 바우하우스의 조형원리에 영향을 미쳤다. 설립자인 그로피우스는 바우하우스를 통해서 여러 분야의 예술을 대건축의 이상 속에서 통합함으로써 산업과 예술의 괴리, 순수예술과 응용예술의 괴리를 극복하고자 하였고 이를 통
다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)
The trend of art style of the times reflects social environment, a culture pattern, an esthetic sense of value and the desire of the people of the time. Inversely, the trend of art inspires the people to change the society and the culture. Hair fashio...
The trend of art style of the times reflects social environment, a culture pattern, an esthetic sense of value and the desire of the people of the time. Inversely, the trend of art inspires the people to change the society and the culture. Hair fashion also interacts with the trend of art and shares the form of beauty of the day.
The age of mechanical mass production headed by The Industrial Revolution required groping for new trend of art and the modern style of manufactured goods. Bauhaus positioned as convergent point of these gropings and a pioneer of mordern design impacts on the trend of art and industrial design of future generation. Hair fashion as a part of practical arts were also influenced by the new ideal of modeling presented by Bauhaus. Vidal Sassoon, a hair designer, holding the first place in the circles of modern hair fashion was inspired by Bauhaus. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of Bauhaus on Vidal Sassoon.
Bauhaus was a design school established by a German architect, Walter Gropius on 1919 . It's design concept such as practical arts corresponding with mechanical production caused by the Industrial Revolution and development of science and proliferated socialism movement in Europe became its background. Art movements of that time, Russian Avantgarde Movement, Arts Deco, De stijl Movement shared the ideal with Bauhaus and showed same geometric shape of works. The Deutch WerkBund preceding Bauhaus had also influence on the principle of forming of Bauhaus by proposing Sachlichkeit. Gropius aimed the overcome of the alienation between industry and art, fine art and applied art, by unification of various fields of art into architect being able to service to every day life of the public. Many artists inspired by the ideal of Gropius was in office as master in Bauhaus. Professors of Bauhaus encouraged with creative spirit conquered romantic tendency and expressionism of the early days and via self-examination, originated 'Bauhaus stijl(Bauhaus style)' featured by geometric simplicity and practical design corresponding to mechanical mass production.
Bauhaus showed the following characteristics. First, it aimed the unification between fine art and applied art, handicrafts and manufacture, art and industry. It raised the status of applied art to the same value with fine art by taking the daily goods manufactured by machine as a goal of design. Second, it showed geometric simplicity influenced by the trend of art of that time, and geometric simplicity was the exact form which satisfied mechanical mass production. Third, it aimed functional design which involved the enjoyment of products by the great number.
In spite of the development of industry and social advance of women, the field of hair fashion stagnated at the level of handicrafts by a small number of hair designers, unfit for 1950's. Vidal Sassoon searching for new hair style made original hair style concept and the status of hair fashion through Bauhaus. Vidal Sassoon who came in contact with Bauhaus buildings and the ideal of 'the whole art(Gesamtkunstwerk)' tried to exalt hair fashion to art and understood in the stream of whole fashion. Also, he tried to consider hair style from the spatial environment which including the shape of face and skeleton, clothing and every day life, and the spirit of the times. He adopted geometric simplicity, the characteristics of the formative view point of Bauhaus, as the principle of analysis of hair and skeleton. Vidal Sassoon defined hair as an organic material in movement made up of many flexible elements. On the ground of this definition, he proposed the new hair style, ‘Geometric Cuts’ gaining tremendous popularity. In the pursuit of functionalism, the ideal of Bauhaus, he also proposed new principle, ‘wash and wear' meaning the condition of hair which regain its shape after wash and only drying. This was revolutionary concepts corresponding to the social advance of women contrary to past hair style requiring much time and money to maintain its shape.
Vidal Sassoon inspired by the style of Bauhaus fit for mass production by machine standardized the process of hair styling and made illustration. Also he established the first modern hair academy to overcome the past apprenticeship. By extending his hair salon branch and hair academy all over the world and rasing its standard, he could service same level of hair style to the large number of women at the same time. Hair fashion then could jump up from the past handicrafts to modern industry.
In conclusion, Vidal Sassoon revolutionized the past hair fashion system and made new hair style concept and hair fashion system. His success in the hair fashion was originated from the reception of the ideal Ba
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