조선시대 기녀 트레머리 고찰과 재현에 관한 연구 = A Study on Review and Revival of Ginyeo’s Tremeori Style during the Joseon Period

국문 초록 (Abstract)

우리나라 고전머리의 풍속은 단군 시대부터 시작하여 현재까지 수많은 기록으로 전해지는 것으로 보아 일찍부터 머리모양에 관한 관심이 많음을 알 수 있다.
본 연구는 조선시대의 통치이념인 유교사상에 따른 조선후기 여성들의 지위와 생활을 고찰해 본 후 이에 반하여 사회참여가 많았던 기녀들의 사회적 지휘와 생활을 통해 화려해질 수밖에 없었던 기녀들의 머리 형태를 살펴보았다. 조선시대는 유교라고 하는 개념이 사회전반에 바탕이 되었으며 이러한 욕구 중의 하나가 머리모양이 사회현상으로 나타났다.
크고 높은 가체를 사용한 머리모양은 조선시대 여성들 내면의 국기와 수양을 통한 정숙과 엄격의 특성을 지닌 유교적 사상과 어긋나는 부분이 있긴 하였으나 그 이면에 권위와 위엄을 나타내는 의미가 있었으므로 사회적으로 크게 유행하는 동기가 된다.
이 연구에서는 문헌 고찰과 풍속화 사진에 의존하여 조선시대 머리모양을 연구 분석하여 체계화시키고 작품제현을 제시 하였다. 또한 머리모양을 제작하는 사람에 따라 머리모양이 약간씩 다를 수 있기 때문에 어느 것이 정통법이라고 단정 짓기는 어렵다.
기생은 춤. 노래. 풍류 등으로 주연석이나 유흥장의 흥을 돋우는 일을 직업으로 삼는 예기의 총칭으로, 조선시대 후기 기생은 유교를 국시로 삼고 여성들의 활동을 금기시 했었던 사회적 분위기에서 낮은 신분이면서도 다른 천민에 비해 화려한 생활을 하며 장식문화를 리드했다.
이렇게 여성사, 젠더, 계급 등의 문제들이 한 덩어리로 어우러져 있는 “기생”을 주제로 다양한 프로젝트와 역사극이 큰 관심사로 떠오른 이 시점에 기생 머리모양을 연구하는 것은 충분히 가치가 있다.
특히 그동안 연구한 자료들을 수집 분석하는 과정에서 기존의 연구들이 많은 노력을 기울였음에도 불구하고 또 다시 연구 보안해야 된 문제점들이 많음을 발견하게 되었다.
우리 고유의 전통 머리모양 중 기본구조를 제시한 시기인 조선전기부터 조선후기까지 기생 머리모양의 미적특성과 변화과정을 살펴봄으로써 기생머리모양의 미적 본질을 재조명 해보고자 하는 것이 본 논문의 연구 목적이다.

목차 (Table of Contents)

• 목 차
• Ⅰ.서론····························································1
• 1. 연구배경···························································1
• 2. 연구목적···························································2
• Ⅱ. 이론적 배경·················································6
• 1. 조선시대 사회 및 문화적 배경·································6
• 2. 조선시대 기생 수발양식의 기원과 발전······················34
• 3. 재현에 관한 선행연구···········································53
• Ⅲ. 연구방법····················································70
• 1. 재현과정 연구 분석········································70
• 2. 자료 분석방법·················································71
• Ⅳ.작품제현과 설문분석 ·······································71
• 1. 얹은머리··························································71
• 2. 기생트레머리·····················································74
• 3. 관기머리··························································76
• 4. 미인도에 나타난 트레머리·····································79
• 5. 황진이 트레머리·················································82
• 6. 설문 분석························································ 84
• Ⅴ. 연구결과·····················································87
• 1. 조사대상자의 일반적 특성·····································87
• 2. 고전머리 관심도·················································88
• 3. 고전머리 형태의 트레머리 재현과정 평가···················91
• Ⅵ. 결론························································105
• 1. 연구의 한계점 및 제언······································106
• 2. 연구시사점 의미···············································107
• 참고문헌···························································109
• ABSTRACT······················································115
• 부록: 설문지······················································117