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      크리티컬 패션에 관한 고찰 = What is Critical Fashion?

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      다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

      This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature rev...

      This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers’ socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

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      참고문헌 (Reference)

      1 최경희, "현대패션비평에 관한 이론적 재고" 한국의류산업학회 16 (16): 66-78, 2014

      2 임은혁, "현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 물질성을 중심으로 -" 한국복식학회 63 (63): 1-16, 2013

      3 정연심, "포스트-미디엄과 포스트프로덕션: 포스트모더니즘 이후 현대미술의 ‘동시대성(contemporaneity)’" 한국미술이론학회 (14) : 187-215, 2012

      4 권자영, "컨셉추얼 아트의 조형적 특징이 반영된 현대패션에 관한 연구" 한국복식학회 57 (57): 70-83, 2007

      5 Seo, D. J., "사회적인 전환 이후의 미술: 미적인 것과 정 치적인 것의 불가능한 조우" (재)광주비엔날레 (5) : 2013

      6 이상훈, "사회 참여적 메시지가 강조된 비평적 디자인의 표현 유형과 확장적 속성 연구" 한국기초조형학회 17 (17): 397-408, 2016

      7 김기수, "랑시에르의 ‘비판적 예술’에 관하여" 새한철학회 83 (83): 1-31, 2016

      8 Evans, C., "Women & fashion : A lew LOOK" WIPIFO 1989

      9 김선영, "Vetements 패션 컬렉션 분석과 내적 의미 -2014 F/W~2016 F/W를 중심으로-" 한국디자인문화학회 22 (22): 67-80, 2016

      10 Oh, B. N., "Trend of contemporary art" Mijinsa 1987

      1 최경희, "현대패션비평에 관한 이론적 재고" 한국의류산업학회 16 (16): 66-78, 2014

      2 임은혁, "현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 물질성을 중심으로 -" 한국복식학회 63 (63): 1-16, 2013

      3 정연심, "포스트-미디엄과 포스트프로덕션: 포스트모더니즘 이후 현대미술의 ‘동시대성(contemporaneity)’" 한국미술이론학회 (14) : 187-215, 2012

      4 권자영, "컨셉추얼 아트의 조형적 특징이 반영된 현대패션에 관한 연구" 한국복식학회 57 (57): 70-83, 2007

      5 Seo, D. J., "사회적인 전환 이후의 미술: 미적인 것과 정 치적인 것의 불가능한 조우" (재)광주비엔날레 (5) : 2013

      6 이상훈, "사회 참여적 메시지가 강조된 비평적 디자인의 표현 유형과 확장적 속성 연구" 한국기초조형학회 17 (17): 397-408, 2016

      7 김기수, "랑시에르의 ‘비판적 예술’에 관하여" 새한철학회 83 (83): 1-31, 2016

      8 Evans, C., "Women & fashion : A lew LOOK" WIPIFO 1989

      9 김선영, "Vetements 패션 컬렉션 분석과 내적 의미 -2014 F/W~2016 F/W를 중심으로-" 한국디자인문화학회 22 (22): 67-80, 2016

      10 Oh, B. N., "Trend of contemporary art" Mijinsa 1987

      11 Crane, D., "The transformation of the Avant-Garde: The New York art world 1940-1985" Bookkorea 2012

      12 Marilyn, J. H., "The second skin" Houghton Mifflin 1975

      13 Elinor, R. N., "The relationship of fashion in women’s dress selected aspects of social change from 1850-1959" Louisiana State University 1962

      14 Bourriaud, N., "The radicant" Denoel 2009

      15 Brand, J., "The power of fashion : On design and meaning" ArtEZ Press 2008

      16 Evans, C., "The golden dustman: a critical evaluation of the work of Martin Margiela and a review of Martin Margiela exhibition(9/4/1615). Fashion Theory" 2 (2): 73-93, 1998

      17 Teunissen, J., "The future of fashion is now : Dutch exhibition catalogue"

      18 Shinkle, E., "The feminine awkward: graceless bodies and the performance of femininity in fashion photographs" 21 (21): 201-217, 2017

      19 Lipovetsky, G., "The empire of fashion: Dressing modern democracy" Princeton University Press 1994

      20 Kawamura, Y., "The Japanese revolution in Paris fashion" Berg 2004

      21 Black, S., "The Handbook of fashion studies" Bloomsbury 2013

      22 Bourriaud, N., "Relational aesthetics" Mijinsa 2011

      23 Bolton, A., "REIKAWAKUBO/COMME des GARҪONS : Art of the In-Between" The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2017

      24 Park, S. S., "Postmodern art and philosophy" Yeoleumsa 1992

      25 Bishop, C., "Participation and spectacle : Where are we now?" The MIT Press 2012

      26 Shin, G. H., "Our twisted hero"

      27 Kim, H., "Meta stable" Amado Art Space 2014

      28 Bruggeman, D., "Long live the (im)material: Concept and materiality in Viktor & Rolf’s fashion" 3 (3): 7-26, 2016

      29 Graham H. Roberts, "Leader of the Gang: Gosha Rubchinskiy and the Death of the Catwalk" Informa UK Limited 21 (21): 689-707, 2017

      30 Buxbaum, G., "Icons of fashion" Prestel 1999

      31 장애란, "Hussein Chalayan의 실험적 디자인" 한국복식학회 52 (52): 91-107, 2002

      32 Wladislaw, T., "History of six ideas an essay in aesthetics" Theorie und Praxis 1993

      33 Stallabrass, J., "High art lite: British art in the 1990s" Verso 1999

      34 Dunne, A., "Hertzian tales : Electronic products, aesthetic experience and critical design" The MIT Press 1999

      35 Matei, C., "Five face of modernity" Visual and language 1993

      36 Geczy, A., "Fashionable art" Bloomsbury 2015

      37 Susan, W., "Fashion show : Paris style" MFA 2006

      38 Vänskä, A., "Fashion curating : Critical practice in the museum and beyond" Bloomsbury Academic 2018

      39 Khan, N., "Fashion cultures : Theories, explorations and analysis" Routledge 2000

      40 Evans, C., "Fashion at the edge : Spectacle, modernity and deathliness" Yale University Press 2003

      41 Brand, J., "Fashion and imagination" ArtEZ Press 2009

      42 Geczy, A., "Fashion and art" Berg 2012

      43 Crane, D., "Fashion and Its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing" Hangilsa 2004

      44 Koda, H., "Extreme beauty : The body transformed" The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2004

      45 Mary, E. R., "Dress, adornment, and the social order. New" John Wiley & Sons 1965

      46 Cho, K. H., "Dress dictionary" Gyeongchunsa 1995

      47 Geczy, A., "Critical fashion practice : From westwood to van Beirendonck" Bloomsbury 2017

      48 Culture, pl., "Critical art. Selected issues"

      49 Griffin, T., "Contemporary art- 1989 to the present" Yekyong 2015

      50 Jo, E. A., "Characteristics of Post Soviet in fashion designer Demna Gavasalia’s works" Kookmin University 2016

      51 Ryszard, W. K., "Artyści pod pręgierz, krytycy sztuki do kliniki psychiatrycznej, czyli najnowsze dyskusje wokół sztuki krytycznej w Polsce" 4 (4): 2074-2081, 1999

      52 Robert, C. M., "Art into ideas: Essays on conceptual art" Cambridge 2007

      53 Ranciére. J., "Aesthetics and Its discontent(H. I. Joo, Trans. )" human love 2008

      54 Wilson, E., "Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity" Virago Press 1985

      55 Kim, S. B., "A study on the theoretical foundation of fashion criticism" 22 (22): 207-224, 1998

      56 Huh, G. Y., "A study on the fashion presentation" Hongik University 2011

      57 Koh, Y. R., "A study on the fashion criticism and psychoanalysis: focused on fashion photography" Sookmyung Women’s University 2003

      58 Kim, R. O., "A study on the expressive characteristics of conceptual art in fashion design: With a focus on the works of Hussein Chalayan and martin Margiela" Sungkyunkwan University 2012

      59 Han, H. J., "A study on the expression of the conceptual art in modern art" Korea National University 2005

      60 Kwon, J. Y., "A study on the conceptual fashion" Hongik University 2008

      61 Kim, S. W., "A study on social criticism of activism expressing in postmodern art" University of Seoul 2016

      62 Kim, H. S., "A study on roles that artists play in contemporary art" Hongik University 2009

      63 Yoo, Y. S., "A study on establishing concept of conceptual design" Kookmin University 2008

      64 Roh, J. S., "A study on avant-garde fashion" Seoul National University 1994

      65 Kim, S. A., "A study of Nicolas Bourriaud’s art theories" Myongii University 2015

      66 Choi, Y. M., "A new perspective on style and its change in the historical Met-hodology on dress: Selected surrealism of dress" Seoul National University 1991

      67 김종기, "21세기 서양미학의 동향과 전망을 위한 시론 3 -니콜라 부리오의 얼터모더니즘(Altermodernism)에 대한 비판적 독해: 얼터모더니즘은 포스트모더니즘 '이후'의 대안인가?" 현대미술학회 21 (21): 151-193, 2017

      68 Choi, C., "20th Century cultural map" Ahngraphics 2006

      69 조사라, "1990년대 이후 현대미술에 나타난 참여예술 비평 연구" 호남학연구원 (15) : 267-287, 2017

      70 Brüderlin, M., "(Kunstmuseum Wolfsburg)Art & fashion : Between skin and clothing" Kerber Verlag 2011

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      2026 평가예정 재인증평가 신청대상 (재인증)
      2020-01-01 평가 등재학술지 유지 (재인증) KCI등재
      2017-01-01 평가 등재학술지 유지 (계속평가) KCI등재
      2013-01-01 평가 등재학술지 유지 (등재유지) KCI등재
      2012-12-31 학회명변경 영문명 : The Korean Society For Clothing Industry -> The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry KCI등재
      2012-12-28 학술지명변경 외국어명 : Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry -> Fashion & Textile Research Journal KCI등재
      2010-01-01 평가 등재학술지 유지 (등재유지) KCI등재
      2008-01-01 평가 등재학술지 유지 (등재유지) KCI등재
      2005-05-18 학술지명변경 한글명 : 한국의류산업학회 -> 한국의류산업학회지 KCI등재
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      기준연도 WOS-KCI 통합IF(2년) KCIF(2년) KCIF(3년)
      2016 0.63 0.63 0.66
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      0.7 0.69 0.817 0.15
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