비비안 탐 컬렉션에 나타난 중국풍 디자인 특성 연구 = A study on Characteristics of Chinese Style Reflected in the Vivienne Tam Collection

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 김명은, "중국 청조(淸朝)의 복식 문양과 18세기 프랑스 복식 문양 비교연구" 한국복식학회 64 (64): 29-44, 2014

2 "Yuanmingyuan Zodiac animal head"

3 "Yin Yang five element"

4 "Unity between man and nature"

5 "Trianon de Porcelaine"

6 "Tie-dyed, Vivienne Tam 2017 S/S"

7 "Tibetan costume"

8 "The Goddess Thvo Chvu in the island of Hainane"

9 "Shangri-La Ethnic Clothing, Vinenne Tam 2012 F/W"

10 "Paper-cut"

11 "Orchid, Vivienne Tam 2012 S/S"

12 "Mickey and Minnie, Vivienne Tam 2008 F/W"

13 "Mao Zedong, Vivienne Tam 1995 S/S"

14 "Mahjong, Vivienne Tam 2016 S/S"

15 "Mahjong"

16 "Magpie, Plum, Flower and Bird Painting, Vvienne Tam 2015 S/S"

17 "Kunqu opera clothing"

18 "Kannon Bodhisattva. Vvienne Tam 2017 S/S"

19 "French porcelain clock"

20 "Dunhuang frescoes, Vivienne Tam 2014 F/W"

21 "Dunhuang frescoes"

22 "Dragon, Kunqu Opera Clothing, Vivienne Tam 2011 F/W"

23 "Classic of Mountains and Seas, Vivienne Tam 2018 S/S"

24 Honour, H., "Chinoiserie: The vision of cathay" Xin Hua bookstore 2017

25 Liang, C., "Chinoiserie 的世界－歐美文藝作品中的中國風土" 4 (4): 69-74, 2007

26 Bao, M. X., "Chinoiserie in european textiles and costume" 13 (13): 91-97, 1987

27 "Chinoiserie Painting, Vivienne Tam 2015 F/W"

28 Dawn, J., "Chinoiserie" Phaidon Press Ltd 1993

29 "Chinese Zodiac Signs. Vivienne Tam 2010 F/W"

30 Bolton, A., "China: Through the looking glass" Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015

31 Zhu, T., "China chic-research and application of Tan Yanyu design style" Hunan Normal University 2015

32 Tam, V., "China chic" Harper collins 2000

33 "Calligraphy, Vivienne Tam 2013 F/W"

34 "Buddha of Shakyamuni, Dunhuang Frescoes, Vivienne Tam 2014 F/W"

35 "Bellyband"

36 "Bamboo, Vivienne Tam 2003 F/W"

37 Wang, M. M., "Analysis on differences in the influence of chinese elements on chinese and foreign designers" Shenyang Aerospace University 2011

38 Wang, S., "A study on the chinese style design in contemporary fashion collection" Chung-Ang University 2017

39 Qiao, D., "A study on the aesthetic characteristics of Chinese chic in contemporary fashion design" Chung-Ang University 2012

40 Ma, Y. M., "A study on Chinese element system and related issues" 15 (15): 12-17, 2015

41 신주영, "18세기 로코코 패션에 나타난 시누아즈리(chinoiserie)" 한국복식학회 56 (56): 13-31, 2006

42 "12 Chinese Zodiac signs"