현대 여성 패션에 나타난 밀리터리 룩에 관한 연구 -2010년 이후 컬렉션을 중심으로- = A Study on the Military Look in Contemporary Fashion -Women`s fashion collections since 2010-

다국어 초록 (Multilingual Abstract)

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women`s body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

참고문헌 (Reference)

1 김선영, "현대패션에 나타난 밀리터리 룩의 특성- 2000년 이후를중심으로 -" 대한가정학회 44 (44): 41-50, 2006

2 김정미, "파워 수트 스타일에 관한 연구" 한국의류산업학회 13 (13): 679-685, 2011

3 임상임, "밀리터리 룩에 표현된 파시즘- 1990년대 이후부터 -" 복식문화학회 12 (12): 155-168, 2004

4 Suzihara, Y., "服飾の歷史をたどる世界地圖" Hyemoon Books 2007

5 "Winter Military Look" SSTV

6 Koh, A. R., "Western costume culture and history" Kyomunsa 2008

7 "Warker-Heel Boots" Lady Kyunghyang

8 Sandra, B., "The measurement of psychological androgyny" 155-162, 1974

9 Lurie, A., "The language of clothes" Kyungchunsa 1986

10 Kim, M. J., "The Lecture of Dress Aesthetics" Kyomunsa 2004

11 Kim, J. Y., "Study on the Military fashion - focusing on the women's fashion after the 1960s -" 1 (1): 45-59, 1997

12 "Pea coat" Inews24

13 "Military look" W

14 "Military jumper" Goodday Sport

15 Sozzani, F., "Military" Vogue Italia

16 Schmid, B., "Klassiker Der Mode" Yekyoung 2001

17 Buxbaum, G., "Icons of fashion: the 20th century" Misulmunhwa 2009

18 Buxbaum, G., "Icons of fashion: the 20th century" Prestel Verlag 1999

19 Jung, H. S., "History of western costume" Kyomunsa 1997

20 Ewing, E., "History of twentieth century fashion" Chrysalis Books Group 2005

21 Shin, S. O., "History of Western Costume" Soohaksa 2002

22 Seeling, C., "Fashion: The Century of the Designer" Könemann 2000

23 Laver, J., "Fashion from ancient Egypt to the present day" The Odyssey Press 1965

24 Kwak, H. J., "Fashion design study applying Military look: center on the ornamental characteristics from military uniforms" Ewha Womans University 2000

25 Crane, D., "Fashion and its social agendas: class, gender and indentity in clothing" Hangilsa 2004

26 "Fashion Dictionary" Kyomunsa 1999

27 "Fashion Data Dictionary" Minjungseokwan 1997

28 Kim, M. J., "Dress aesthetics" Kyomunsa 2008

29 Laver, J., "Costume and fashion: a concise history" Kyungchunsa 1988

30 Newark, T., "Camoufalge" Thames & Hudson 2007

31 Kan, M. J., "A study on the military look expressed in women's fashion design" 21 (21): 119-128, 1997

32 Mendes, V., "20th century fashion" Sigongart 2003

33 Bond, D., "20th century fashion" Kyungchunsa 2000

34 100 years of Modern Fashion Compilation Committee, "100 years of Modern Fashion" Kyomunsa 2002