Recovering the royal cuisine in Chosun Dynasty and its esthetics

정혜경,신다연,정경란,최서연,우나리야 한국식품연구원 2017 Journal of Ethnic Foods Vol.4 No.4

We believe that researching the cuisine consumed by the royal family, in particular the king, during the 500-year long Chosun Dynasty is an interesting and meaningful endeavor. This task is an important part of unraveling the cultural significance of Korean cuisine in the 21st century, a new age of gastronomy. Until now, research has largely focused on recreating Chosun royal cuisine based on oral statements from staff in the last royal kitchen or the Uikwe (儀軌), the Royal Protocols which recorded food consumed at banquets. However, little research has been conducted on ordinary royal cuisine consumed by the king, mainly because of a lack of materials to study. This article aims to shed light on this topic and recreate what every day royal cuisine looked like in the late stages of the Chosun Dynasty by examining joseoksangsikbalgi (朝夕上食撥記, memos of morning and evening ancestral rites table) and judaryebalgi (晝茶禮撥記, memos of daytime tea ceremonies). The memos are similar to the chanpumdanja (饌品單子, literally meaning “a list of dishes served on the table”) that recorded national banquets and therefore do not contain records of ordinary royal cuisine. However, the memos of morning and evening ancestral rites table still remain. These documents describe food offered to the deceased, which was the same as the meals they regularly ate while alive. Accordingly, we attempted to reproduce the traditional table setting for ordinary royal cuisine served to King Kojong (高宗) by analyzing these memos. King Kojong (1852–1919) was the 26th king of the Chosun Dynasty, and a detailed description of the sangsik (上食, ancestral rites table) prepared following his death in January 1919 is present in the morning and evening sangsik memos and daytime tea ceremony memos from October 11, 1919. After analyzing the memos from after King Kojong's death in 1919, we were able to determine that the cuisine consisted of rice as bap (a main staple rice), kuk (a kind of soup), tang (stew), banchan (side dishes) such as meat, jeok (skewers), jeon (Korean pancakes), greens and salted dry fish, kimchi, seasonings such as soy sauce, kochujang (red pepper paste) and mustard as well as fruits and fruit salad for dessert. We determined that in addition to bap (rice), kuk (soup), tang (stew), kimchi and sauces, there were 7–9 banchan (side dishes) that served to create a balanced meal. On examination of the esthetic elements of Chosun royal cuisine, we found that the cuisine followed Confucian customs and formalities, and the kobaeumsik (고배음식, religious food serviced by layer upon layer) that symbolizes the power of the king. In addition to this, royal cuisine also embodied the philosophy of yaksikdongwon (藥食同源), an ideology which focuses on the health function of food. It was also nutritionally balanced and achieved synergy between yin (陰) and yang (陽). We believe that studying the cuisine of the Chosun royal family will ultimately play a role in spreading awareness about Korean royal cuisine around the world and creating materials that can be referred to for further research on royal cuisine and culture. However, we cannot be certain that the records present in the sangsik memos are truly representative of what the king ate on a daily basis, and more detailed analysis is required on this point.

장서각 소장 사찬발기를 통한 조선왕실의 사찬음식 연구 - 탄일, 출산, 가례, 상례를 중심으로 -

정혜경,신다연,우나리야 한국식생활문화학회 2019 韓國食生活文化學會誌 Vol.34 No.5

This study investigated the Sachanbalgi, which record the royal feasts given by the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty ofKorea. These records are contained within the Gungjung Balgi, which recorded the types and quantity of items used in royalcourt ceremonies. The Eumsikbalgi is the general name for the records of food found within this document. Using theseEumsikbalgi, and in particular the Sachanbalgi, this study investigated the food eaten and bestowed by the Joseon royalfamily. The Sachanbalgi describes four categories or occasions of feasts: royal birthdays, childbirth, royal weddings, andfunerals. These records allow us to reconstruct who the attendees were and what the table settings and food were forinstances not directly indicated in oral records, books, or other documents. The food at these Sachan (feasts) was diverse,being related to the specific event, and its contents varied based on the position of the person who was receiving the food. Usually, Bab (rice) was not found at a Sachanbalgi, and only on two occasions were meals with Bab observed. Specifically,it was served with Gwaktang (seaweed soup) at a childbirth feast. There were seven kinds of soups and stews that appearedin the Sachanbalgi: Gwaktang, Yeonpo (octopus soup), Japtang (mixed food stew), Chogyetang (chilled chicken soup),Sinseonro (royal hot pot), and Yukjang (beef and soybean paste). Nureumjeok (grilled brochette) and Saengchijeok(pheasant), and Ganjeonyueo (pan-fried cow liver fillet) and Saengseonjeonyueo (pan-fried fish fillet) were eaten. Yangjeonyueo, Haejeon, Tigakjeon (pan-fried kelp) and other dishes, known and unknown, were also recorded. Boiled meatslices appeared at high frequency (40 times) in the records; likewise, 22 kinds of rice cake and traditional sweets werefrequently served at feasts. Five kinds of non-alcoholic beverages were provided. Seasonal fruits and nuts, such as fresh pearor fresh chestnut, are thought to have been served following the event. In addition, a variety of dishes including salted dryfish, boiled dish, kimchi, fruit preserved in honey, seasoned vegetables, mustard seeds, fish, porridge, fillet, steamed dishes,stir-fried dishes, vegetable wraps, fruit preserved in sugar, and jellied foods were given to guests, and noodles appear 16times in the records. Courtiers were given Banhap, Tanghap, Myeonhap, wooden bowls, or lunchboxes. The types of foodprovided at royal events tracked the season. In addition, considering that for feasts food of the royal household was set outfor receptions of guests, cooking instructions for the food in the lunchbox-type feasts followed the cooking instructions usedin the royal kitchen at the given time. Previous studies on royal cuisine have dealt mostly with the Jineosang presented tothe king, but in the Sachanbalgi, the food given by the royal family to its relatives, retainers, and attendants is recorded. Thestudy of this document is important because it extends the knowledge regarding the food of the royal families of the JoseonDynasty. The analysis of Sachanbalgi and the results of empirical research conducted to reconstruct the precise nature of thatfood will improve modern knowledge of royal cuisine.

Dining Elegance and Authenticity: Archaeology of Royal Court Cuisine in Korea

문옥표 한국학중앙연구원 한국학중앙연구원 2010 Korea Journal Vol.50 No.1

Korean royal court culture was doomed by the fall of the Joseon dynasty at the hands of Japanese imperial forces at the beginning of the twentieth century. After the establishment of Japanese colonial administration in 1910, court traditions mostly disappeared as displaced royal family members and their former attendants grew older and suffered economic hardships. It was only in the 1970s that royal court cuisine began to receive official attention as part of efforts to reconstruct and preserve national cultural heritage. In 1970, the royal cuisine of the Joseon dynasty was designated by the state as the Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 38. Through a detailed case study of Hwang Hye-seong (1920-2006), the second state-designated holder of the cultural property, this paper examines the process by which “royal court cuisine”was identified and redefined within the framework of the Important Intangible Cultural Property system in Korea, and analyzes how the royal cuisine thus reconstructed has come to be established, recognized, and successfully commoditized as a specific brand of haute cuisine in the dietary culture of late twentieth- and early twenty-first-century Korea.

「삭망다례등록(朔望茶禮謄錄)」에 기록된 궁중음식에 관한 분석적 고찰

이소영,한복려,Lee, So-young,Han, Bok-ryo 한국식생활문화학회 2016 韓國食生活文化學會誌 Vol.31 No.4

This paper investigated monthly meal composition and type of foods prepared for Dalye (ancestor rituals) over a period of 1 year based on the records in Sakmangdalye-deungnok and reviewed the ingredients for Dalye foods. From the results of our survey, 19 to 20 dishes were served in Sakmangdalye. 24 to 25 different foods were served in Sakdalye. Foods for Sakdalye consisted of Silkwa, Jogwa-Gwapyun, Jeongkwa or Suksilkwa, Hwachae-Sujeonggwa, Tteok, Cho, Jeonyueo, Sugyuk, Jjim, Hwe, Po, Sikhye, Tang, main dish-Guksu or Mandu, and Jang. Ingredients used in Sakmangdalye were recorded in a very integrated and simple manner in Sakmangdalye-deungnok. All ingredients were categorized into three groups: Kwasil (Fruits), Byeongmisikseung (Rice cakes etc.), and Muyeok (purchases). Sakmangdalye-deungnok was helpful in consulting dishes and ordering ingredients when a table for Dalye was set. Moreover, it was written simply enough so those who were in charge of preparing food could easily understand. This paper establishes Sakmangdalye-deungnok as one of the key materials for Royal Cuisine.

高麗末ㆍ朝鮮初 王室用 磁器의 제작 체계 연구

김윤정(Kim Yunjeong) 한국미술사학회 2008 美術史學硏究 Vol.260 No.260

조선시대 왕실용 자기를 제작하는 沙器所는 당시 御膳을 담당하는 사옹원에 설치되었다. 이러한 역사적 사실에 두 가지 문제점을 제기할 수 있다. 첫째, 磁器를 제작하는 일은 吏曹가 아니라 工曹에 분장된 업무였다는 점, 둘째 사옹원 이전에 御膳을 담당하던 司膳署에는 사기소가 설치되지 않았다는 점이다. 본고에서는 이 문제를 해결하기 위하여 고려말 원간섭기 이후부터 조선초 사옹원에 관요가 설치되기까지 왕실용 자기의 제작과 관리에서 중요한 비중을 차지하고 있는 사옹의 실체를 파악하는데 주력하였고, 고려말ㆍ조선초 왕실용 자기의 제작 체계에 대하여 몇 가지 새로운 점을 밝힐 수 있었다. 첫째, 고려말 원간섭기 이후부터 왕실 재정의 고갈과 관제의 혼란 등 불안정한 정치 상황에서, 국왕과 긴밀하게 연결되어 있었던 내시들이 왕실 의례나 왕실 재정 관사에서 사용되는 청자의 제작과 수취에 관여했을 가능성을 살펴보았다. 둘째, 고려 말기 이러한 내시의 역할이 성중애마의 하나였던 사옹으로 이어져서, 사옹은 국왕의 직속 내시 기구로 內用?器를 監造하고 조달하는 직무를 수행하였던 것을 알 수 있었다. 셋째, 고려가 망하고 조선이 건국되면서, 사옹은 사옹방으로 吏曹에 편제되었다. 사옹방은 내시가 주축이 된 품계가 없는 왕실 직속기구로서, 왕실용 자기의 제작과 관리에 관여하였음을 확인하였다. 넷째, 왕실용 자기 제작에서 사옹방의 監造 기능과 친왕실적인 성격은 결국 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에 왕실 자기의 제작을 전담하는 沙器所가 설치되는 요인으로 작용하였다. 다섯째, 사기소의 설치는 사옹방이 왕실용 자기의 監造 뿐만 아니라 製作까지 담당한다는 의미이다. 즉 자기의 제작비용이 국가 재정으로 사용되어야하기 때문에 필연적으로 정식 관리가 필요했을 것이다. 따라서 1467년에 사옹원이라는 정식 행정기구로 개편되고 녹관을 둔 이후에 국가재정으로 그릇을 만드는 관요로서의 사기소가 설치될 수 있었을 것이다. 결론적으로, 왕실용 자기의 제작에서 가장 중요한 과정은 監造인데, 즉 왕실용 자기의 제작을 감독할 수 있는 적임자는 왕실과 긴밀한 관계 속에 있는 內侍였다. 중국의 남송이나 명의 경우, 황실용 자기의 제작에서 내시는 그릇의 제작을 감독하는 監造官으로, 정식 행정처인 工部는 가마 설치ㆍ재료비ㆍ공장의 인건비 등 실제 제작 과정을 당당하였다. 그러나 조선은 중국과는 달리 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에서 監造와 製作을 모두 담당하는 특수한 상황이었음을 알 수 있다. 즉, 이러한 상황은 고려 말기경부터 왕실용 자기 제작에 관여했던 내시의 역할이 고려말 司饔과 조선초 사옹방으로 이어진 것이며, 사옹방의 監造 기능과 천왕실적인 성격은 결국 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에 왕실 자기의 제작을 전담하는 沙器所가 설치되는 요인으로 작용하였던 것으로 추정된다. Sagiso, which were responsible for producing royal wares during the Joseon period, were established at the Saongwon (Office of Royal Cuisines) under the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. In relation to this historical fact, however, two problems can be pointed out : first, the work of manufacturing ceramic wares was undertaken not by the Ministry of Personnel Affairs but by the Ministry of Public Works; second, the Saseonseo (Office of Royal Cuisines), which undertook the job of preparing royal foods before the establishment of the Saongwon, did not run the Sagiso. To address these problems, this study explores the role and influence of the Saong (the palace attendants responsible for preparing the royal cuisine) who wielded considerable influence over the production and management of royal wares between the last days of Goryeo (subject at that time to Yuan intervention) and the early Joseon period when the gwanyo (official kilns) were established under the control of Saongwon. The study also identifies several new facts regarding the system of manufacturing royal wares during this period. First, the possibility was explored that-amid the political instability prevalent during Goryeo's last days under Yuan intervention, including the exhaustion of the state s finances and the disorderly official regulations - the Naesi (palace attendants in Goryeo period) who worked in close proximity to the king probably got involved in the production and collection of the celadon that were used in royal ceremonies and royal administrative affairs. Second, the findings indicate that the role of the Naesi in this matter was transferred to the Saong, one of the Seongjungaema (groups of officials working in close proximity to the king). They, as the organization of Naesi under the direct control of the king, undertook the job of inspecting and procuring royal wares. Third, with the collapse of Goryeo and the founding of Joseon the Saong were incorporated into the Saongbang (organization of Royal Cuisines) under the control of the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. Research has indicated that the Saongbang, an organization with no court ranking under the direct control of the king, was controlled by the eunuchs, undertook the production and management of royal wares. Fourth, the Saongbang's function of inspecting royal wares and attending to the king closely eventually led to the establishment of the sagiso at the Saongwon under the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. Fifth, the establishment of the sagiso meant that the saongbang undertook to not only inspect but also to manufacture royal wares. Likewise, given the fact that the state finances had to be properly managed in order to manufacture royal wares, an official management system was presumably essential. Thus, in 1467, the official agency known as the Saongwon was established and staffed with regular officials, while the sagiso were established as official kilns. In conclusion, inspection was the most important part of the procedure of manufacturing royal wares, and this function was undertaken by eunuchs who work in close attendance to the king. During the Chinese Southern Song and Ming dynasties, eunuchs were employed to inspect the manufacture of imperial wares, and the relevant Ministry of Public Works was responsible for the installation of kilns, material costs, labor costs of potters, and other frontline jobs. Joseon however, unlike China, used the Ministry of Personnel Affairs to undertake the inspection and manufacture of royal wares through the offices of the Saongwon, Likewise, this particular situation came about because the Naesi' role in the manufacture of royal wares was transferred to the Saong and the Saongbang between the last days of Goryeo and the early Joseon period. The Saongbang's role in inspecting the manufacture of royal wares and its closeness to the king presumably led to the establishment of the sagiso, an office exclusively responsible for manufacturing ro

高麗末·朝鮮初 王室用 磁器의 제작 체계 연구

김윤정 한국미술사학회 2008 美術史學硏究 Vol.260 No.260

조선시대 왕실용 자기를 제작하는 沙器所는 당시 御膳을 담당하는 사옹원에 설치되었다. 이러한 역사적 사실에 두 가지 문제점을 제기할 수 있다. 첫째, 磁器를 제작하는 일은 吏曹가 아니라 工曹에 분장된 업무였다는 점, 둘째 사옹원 이전에 御膳을 담당하던 司膳署에는 사기소가 설치되지 않았다는 점이다. 본고에서는 이 문제를 해결하기 위하여 고려말 원간섭기 이후부터 조선초 사옹원에 관요가 설치되기까지 왕실용 자기의 제작과 관리에서 중요한 비중을 차지하고 있는 사옹의 실체를 파악하는데 주력하였고, 고려말·조선초 왕실용 자기의 제작 체계에 대하여 몇 가지 새로운 점을 밝힐 수 있었다. 첫째, 고려말 원간섭기 이후부터 왕실재정의 고갈과 관제의 혼란 등 불안정한 정치 상황에서, 국왕과 긴밀하게 연결되어 있었던 내시들이 왕실 의례나 왕실 재정 관사에서 사용되는 청자의 제작과 수취에 관여했을 가능성을 살펴보았다. 둘째, 고려말기 이러한 내시의 역할이 성중애마의 하나였던 사옹으로 이어져서, 사옹은 국왕의 직속 내시 기구로 內用甆器를 監造하고 조달하는 직무를 수행하였던 것을 알 수 있었다. 셋째, 고려가 망하고 조선이 건국되면서, 사옹은 사옹방으로 吏曹에 편제되었다. 사옹방은 내시가 주축이 된 품계가 없는 왕실 직속 기구로서, 왕실용 자기의 제작과 관리에 관여하였음을 확인하였다. 넷째, 왕실용 자기 제작에서 사옹방의 監造 기능과 친왕실적인 성격은 결국 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에 왕실 자기의 제작을 전담하는 沙器所가 설치되는 요인으로 작용하였다. 다섯째, 사기소의 설치는 사옹방이 왕실용 자기의 監造 뿐만 아니라 製作까지 담당한다는 의미이다. 즉 자기의 제작비용이 국가 재정으로 사용되어야 하기 때문에 필연적으로 정식 관리가 필요했을 것이다. 따라서 1467년에 사옹원이라는 정식 행정기구로 개편되고 녹관을 둔 이후에 국가재정으로 그릇을 만드는 관요로서의 사기소가 설치될 수 있었을 것이다. 결론적으로, 왕실용 자기의 제작에서 가장 중요한 과정은 監造인데, 즉 왕실용 자기의 제작을 감독할 수 있는 적임자는 왕실과 긴밀한 관계 속에 있는 內侍였다. 중국의 남송이나 명의 경우, 황실용 자기의 제작에서 내시는 그릇의 제작을 감독하는 監造官으로, 정식 행정처인 工部는 가마 설치·재료비·공장의 인건비 등 실제 제작 과정을 담당하였다. 그러나 조선은 중국과는 달리 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에서 監造와 製作을 모두 담당하는 특수한 상황이었음을 알 수 있다. 즉, 이러한 상황은 고려말기 경부터 왕실용 자기 제작에 관여했던 내시의 역할이 고려말 司饔과 조선초 사옹방으로 이어진 것이며, 사옹방의 監造 기능과 친왕실적인 성격은 결국 吏曹에 속한 사옹원에 왕실 자기의 제작을 전담하는 沙器所가 설치되는 요인으로 작용하였던 것으로 추정된다. Sagiso, which were responsible for producing royal wares during the Joseon period, were established at the Saongwon (Office of Royal Cuisines) under the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. In relation to this historical fact, however, two problems can be pointed out: first, the work of manufacturing ceramic wares was undertaken not by the Ministry of Personnel Affairs but by the Ministry of Public Works; second, the Saseonseo (Office of Royal Cuisines), which undertook the job of preparing royal foods before the establishment of the Saongwon, did not run the Sagiso. To address these problems, this study explores the role and influence of the Saong (the palace attendants responsible for preparing the royal cuisine) who wielded considerable influence over the production and management of royal wares between the last days of Goryeo (subject at that time to Yuan intervention) and the early Joseon period when the gwanyo (official kilns) were established under the control of Saongwon. The study also identifies several new facts regarding the system of manufacturing royal wares during this period. First, the possibility was explored that - amid the political instability prevalent during Goryeo's last days under Yuan intervention, including the exhaustion of the state’s finances and the disorderly official regulations – the Naesi (palace attendants in Goryeo period) who worked in close proximity to the king probably got involved in the production and collection of the celadon that were used in royal ceremonies and royal administrative affairs. Second, the findings indicate that the role of the Naesi in this matter was transferred to the Saong, one of the Seongjungaema (groups of officials working in close proximity to the king). They, as the organization of Naesi under the direct control of the king, undertook the job of inspecting and procuring royal wares. Third, with the collapse of Goryeo and the founding of Joseon, the Saong were incorporated into the Saongbang (organization of Royal Cuisines) under the control of the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. Research has indicated that the Saongbang, an organization with no court ranking under the direct control of the king, was controlled by the eunuchs, undertook the production and management of royal wares. Fourth, the Saongbang's function of inspecting royal wares and attending to the king closely eventually led to the establishment of the sagiso at the Saongwon under the Ministry of Personnel Affairs. Fifth, the establishment of the sagiso meant that the Saongbang undertook to not only inspect but also to manufacture royal wares. Likewise, given the fact that the state finances had to be properly managed in order to manufacture royal wares, an official management system was presumably essential. Thus, in 1467, the official agency known as the Saongwon was established and staffed with regular officials, while the sagiso were established as official kilns. In conclusion, inspection was the most important part of the procedure of manufacturing royal wares, and this function was undertaken by eunuchs who work in close attendance to the king. During the Chinese Southern Song and Ming dynasties, eunuchs were employed to inspect the manufacture of imperial wares, and the relevant Ministry of Public Works was responsible for the installation of kilns, material costs, labor costs of potters, and other frontline jobs. Joseon, however, unlike China, used the Ministry of Personnel Affairs to undertake the inspection and manufacture of royal wares through the offices of the Saongwon. Likewise, this particular situation came about because the Naesi' role in the manufacture of royal wares was transferred to the Saong and the Saongbang between the last days of Goryeo and the early Joseon period. The Saongbang's role in inspecting the manufacture of royal wares and its closeness to the king presumably led to the establishment of the sagiso, an office exclusively responsible for manuf...

15세기 조선과 명의 御用磁器 제작체제의 유사점과 차이점

김윤정 한국대학박물관협회 2015 고문화 Vol.85 No.-

In this study, the roles and characteristics of government organizations and officials related to manufacturing of royal wares were compared and examined, with a focus on the 15th century when the royal kilns system was introduced in the Joseon Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty. The study focused on the fact that the 15th century was a period when the royal wares manufacturing systems began to be implemented, and that the systems were only observed in Joseon and Ming. The two countries’ universality and specificity of the systems were examined through close comparison of public organizations and officials related to handling royal wares manufacturing, handling the requisition and supervision of craftsmen and supervising the overall manufacturing process. First, comparison was made as to which organizations were in charge of manufacturing royal wares in the two countries. Considering the Yukjo system (a governance system of Joseon and Ming), the roles of craftmen who built kilns and made wares with earth were equivalent to that of Gongjo. Gongbu of Ming manufactured and supplied wares used in royal palaces, including royal wares from the period of Hongmu reign(1368~1398). In Joseon, all wares used in royal palaces were supplied based on the taxation system managed by Hojo and Sagiso (royal kilns), which was an organization reporting to Saongwon (office under Yijo) established in 1467. It is noteworthy that the manufacturing and supply of royal wares were managed under the Yijo system not the Gongjo system in Joseon period. Next, roles of Gamjogwan (manufacturing supervisors) and Gamgonggwan (potter supervisors) who played a vital part in manufacturing wares in line with the style and quality demanded by the Emperor and King were compared. In Ming, the eunuchs were dispatched from the period of Seondeok reign(1426~1435) when the full-fledged operation of the royal kiln began, serving as manufacturing supervisors. Officials of Gongbu served as potter supervisors. The eunuchs were dispatched to the royal wares manufacturing site, as it was effective in manufacturing quality wares that the Emperor ordered to be completed in a short time. Joseon also dispatched the eunuch as supervisors for manufacturing royal wares, who handled the manufacturing and management of royal wares at Saongbang, consisting of eunuchs. In addition, as royal wares were manufactured based on the taxation system in the early Joseon period, some cases show that local officials acted as supervisors of manufacturing and potter. The roles of eunuch in manufacturing of royal wares were abolished in 1467, when Sagiso was established in Saongwon and officials of Saongwon served as manufacturing supervisors. Third, scopes and roles of Saongwon and Guanglusi, office of royal cuisines, in manufacturing royal wares were compared. Guanglusi of Ming defined the type and quantity of royal wares used at royal palaces by year, and notified Gongbu of the information. Guanglusi of Ming also managed wares, preventing losses and damages of wares, but was not directly involved in the manufacturing process. On the contrary, Sagiso was established under Saongwon in 1467 as the royal kiln, and it secured fuel for manufacturing royal wares, developed new firing techniques, and supervised potters and manufacturing. 조선과 명에서 관요제도가 정착되는 15세기를 중심으로 어용자기 제작에 관련되는 官制·官吏·官司의역할과 성격을 비교 고찰하여, 양국 어용자기 제작체제의 유사점과 차이점을 살펴보았다. 15세기는 양국의 어기 제작이 관요체제로 정착되어 가는 시기이면서, 중국과 한국에서만 볼 수 있는 현상이라는 점을 주목하였다. 조선이 관요를 설치하는 전후 과정에서 명과의 유사성과 조선만의 특수한 상황이 무엇이었는지를 이해하는 데 목적이 있다. 첫째, 어용자기 제작을 담당하는 官制에서 가마를 짓고 흙으로 그릇을 만드는 百工의 직무는 六曹체제에서 工曹의 업무라고 할 수 있다. 명은 洪武 연간부터 어용자기를 포함한 궐내에서 사용되는 각종 자기는 工 部에서 제작을 담당하고 調達하였다. 그러나 조선은 1467년경에 吏曹에 속한 사옹원 산하에 官窯인 ‘沙器所’ 가 설치되었으며, 이는 육조체제에서 본다면 특수한 상황임을 알 수 있다. 둘째, 어기 제작에서 가장 중요한 역할은 ‘監造’와 ‘監工’이다. 명은 선덕 연간(1426~1435)부터 내관이 감조관, 공부 관원이 감공관의 역할을 했다. 내관을 직접 제작지에 파견하는 이유는 사용자(황제, 국왕)가 원하는 양식과 높은 품질의 자기를 빠른 시간 안에 제대로 제작하기 위해서였다. 조선에서도 어용자기 제작에 내시가 감조관으로 파견되거나 내관으로 구성된 사옹방이 어용자기와 제작과 관리에 관여하였다. 그러나 사옹방이 정식 관사인 사옹원으로 개편되고, ‘사기소’가 설치되면서 내시가 아닌 사옹원 관원이 監造官 의 직무를 수행하게 된다. 셋째, 사옹원과 광록시는 모두 御膳을 담당한 관사이다. 명대 광록시는 궐내에서 해마다 사용되는 자기의 기종과 수량을 책정하여 공부에 알리고, 분실과 훼손 등을 방지하는 등의 그릇 관리가 주된 임무였으며, 자기 제작에 직접 관여하지 않았다. 그러나 조선의 사옹방의 後身인 사옹원에서 어용자기의 제작과정에 필요한 땔감 조달, 새로운 번조기술의 개발, 감조, 감공 등의 역할을 하게 된다.

高麗末ㆍ朝鮮初 司饔의 성격과 역할

김윤정(Kim, Yun-jeong) 고려대학교 한국학연구소 2013 한국학연구 Vol.45 No.-

고려말 사옹은 전국에 산재한 여러 가마터에서 내용자기의 제작을 監督하고 收取해오는 역할을 하였다. 그러나 사옹은 禑王代(1374~ 1388) 관직 남발로 설치된 첨설직이면서 民財를 사적으로 갈취하는 등의 많은 문제를 야기하였다. 개혁 儒臣이었던 조준은 당시 사선서와 직무가 중복 되는 사옹의 혁파를 주장하였다. 그러나 상당 기간 동안 제 기능을 못했던 사선서에서 內用瓷器의 監造 및 收取를 담당할 수 없었을 뿐만 아니라 이미 수백 명의 차비가 소속된 사옹 조직을 일시에 혁파할 수 없었다. 조선초에 사옹은 1405년에 사옹방으로 吏曹에 편제되었고, 적어도 1417년까지 궐내 사용되는 자기의 수취를 담당하였던 것으로 추정된다. 사옹방은 왕실의 주요 구성원이 머무는 대전, 중궁전, 세자전에 설치되어 內膳 供上을 담당하였지만 주요 구성원이 내시나 별좌로 이루어진 품계 가 없는 기구였다. 그러나 왕실과 직간접적으로 관련된 친왕실 성향의 인물이 사옹제조에 임명되는 등 왕실 직속 기구의 성격을 유지하였다. 또한 사옹방에 器皿만 담당하는 사람이 배치되었다는 점이나 그릇을 분별하여 사용해야 하는 등 왕실용 자기와 관련된 사옹방의 역할을 볼 수 있다. 결국 정식 관사였던 사선서는 폐지되고, 직급이 없는 왕실 직속 기구였던 사옹방이 1467년에 정3품의 정식 행정 관사인 사옹원로 개칭되고, 왕실용 자기를 제작하는 업무까지 담당하게 되는 것이다. The roles of Saong, the king’s attendants as royal chefs, included supervision and acquiring of the royal celadons produced at many kilns scattered around the country at the late Goryeo period. Jun Cho strongly insisted that the roles of Saong should be changed, as the roles of Saong were overlapped with those of Saseonseo and Saong caused many problems of abuse of private assets despite the honorary titles overissued in the reign of King Woo. However, it was impossible to fully abolish the organization of Saong, including several hundred of lower-level officials, and Saseonseo, which had not properly performed for a long period, could not replace the roles of supervision and acquiring of the royal celadons. In the early Joseon period, Saong was included to the organization of Ijo as Saongbang in 1405. It is estimated that Saong had taken charge of acquiring of royal wares use until 1417 at least. Saongbang, the organization of royal cuisines, managed affairs related to service royal food by being installed at Daejeon (the King’s palace), Junggungjeon (the Queen’s residence) and Sejajeon (the Prince’s residence) where key members of the royal family stayed, but the organization had no official ranks such as Naesi or Byeoljwa. Nevertheless, Saongbang remained to be the organization directly reporting to the royal family, as seen in the fact that the persons directly or indirectly related to the royal family were appointed as Saongjejo. In addition, the fact that there was a person dedicated to management of tableware at Saongbang and the fact that it was the norms to distinguish tableware for use well illustrate that Saongbang took the roles related to tableware for the royal family. Later, Saseonseo, the office of royal cuisines, was abolished and Saongbang, which was a royal organization with no official ranks, was renamed as Saongwon in 1467. As the official administrative office of the 3<SUP>rd</SUP> rank of Jeong, Saongwon took charge of production of the royal wares.

궁중음식 인식성향에 따른 궁중음식 메뉴개발 방향성에 대한 조사

구하연,정서영,정희선,Koo, Ha Yeon,Choung, Seo Yeong,Jeong, Hee Sun 한국식품조리과학회 2016 한국식품조리과학회지 Vol.32 No.3

Purpose: This study assesses Korean royal court cuisine as perceived by culinary professionals and students for the development of Korean dining. Methods: It was observed in a survey that Korean royal cuisine could be grouped into four classes represented by the following factors: popularity, standardization, tradition, and haute-cuisine. Results: From the analysis of the survey results, it was determined that the people surveyed could be grouped into the following three categories: those who prefer standardization/pursuit of haute-cuisine, traditionalists/popularizers, and those who are indifferent. The survey also assessed whether the ten most popular Korean dishes served to foreigners had variations in royal court cuisine and which food ingredients and combinations of dishes would be the most appropriate. It was determined that control over the sweetness when cooking Bulgogi was needed. For food usually consumed for invigoration, especially for the broth of soup dishes in summer, women preferred clear meat broth with soup than men. When preparing Japchae, it was found that control over the ratio between glass noodles and vegetables and control over the sweetness were needed with respect to the main dishes. Conclusion: The indicator 'education on Korean royal court cuisine culture' showed relatively low satisfaction compared to its high importance, implying that further improvement in these development measures is especially required.

Introduction to Old documents related to Palace Cuisine of the Joseon dynasty

Joo, Young-ha(주영하) 한국학중앙연구원 2013 장서각 Vol.0 No.30