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A Study on Characteristics of Costume Based on North American Life Styles by Region
Jeongyeol Lee,Jaejung Lee,Eulyo Yun (사)한국디지털디자인협의회 2007 (사)한국디지털디자인협의회 conference Vol.2007 No.1
The North American region is a place where many different cultures coexist within a large territory. As a result this study aims to categorize North American regions based on culture and lifestyle and to classify them by different styles that inspire designs in the fashion industry. Therefore, the most representative life styles by region in the North American region were categorized into 6 style such as New England Style, Mountain Style, Southern Style, Western Style, Hawaiian Style, and Heartland Style, observed the difference in lifestyle by regions, and evaluated how such styles are applied in modern fashion. According to the results of the study, characteristics of costume based on each regional lifestyle are as follows. The New England Style placed importance on classic American style of the north eastern region and styles that reflect conservative nature could be seen most frequently. As American country style with the background of a food basket, clothes with simple styles quilting that use varying colors are characteristics of the Heartland Style. As a region of historical racial discrimination and the slave system, the southern style is expressed in flapper style of the jazz culture that focuses on fancy styles of the upper class and African Americans. With strong characteristics of a region with desolate desert as its state, the exquisite charm of detail such as western shirts and various articles with embroidery stand out in costume style of the western style. As a style that exudes toughness of nature, Navajo Indian patterns are frequently used in mountain style. As a region that cherishes the unique local traditions of the natives, styles that use bold colors and natural themes and motif are characteristic of the Hawaiian style.
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A Study on Characteristics of Costume Based on North American Life Styles by Region
Jeongyeol Lee,Jaejung Lee,Eulyo Yun 한국디자인지식학회 2007 한국디자인지식학회 Conference Vol.2007 No.8
The North American region is a place where many different cultures coexist within a large territory. As a result this study aims to categorize North American regions based on culture and lifestyle and to classify them by different styles that inspire designs in the fashion industry. Therefore, the most representative life styles by region in the North American region were categorized into 6 style such as New England Style, Mountain Style, Southern Style, Western Style, Hawaiian Style, and Heartland Style, observed the difference in lifestyle by regions, and evaluated how such styles are applied in modern fashion. According to the results of the study, characteristics of costume based on each regional lifestyle are as follows. The New England Style placed importance on classic American style of the north eastern region and styles that reflect conservative nature could be seen most frequently. As American country style with the background of a food basket, clothes with simple styles quilting that use varying colors are characteristics of the Heartland Style. As a region of historical racial discrimination and the slave system, the southern style is expressed in flapper style of the jazz culture that focuses on fancy styles of the upper class and African Americans. With strong characteristics of a region with desolate desert as its state, the exquisite charm of detail such as western shirts and various articles with embroidery stand out in costume style of the western style. As a style that exudes toughness of nature, Navajo Indian patterns are frequently used in mountain style. As a region that cherishes the unique local traditions of the natives, styles that use bold colors and natural themes and motif are characteristic of the Hawaiian style.
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이은주 서양미술사학회 2019 서양미술사학회논문집 Vol.51 No.-
This paper examines how the Puritan identity was formed and represented by religious, economic, political changes in the seventeenth-century New England through portraits. It also discusses how the ideology, religious and social norms of state was constructed, and how they became the dominant norms of American society and represented in portraits. In the seventeenth century, ministers and political leaders, referred to as the first-generation gentry, mainly portrayed their likeness. They wanted to reflect the virtues of the leader, Puritan doctrine, and the rules of governance in their portraits. The simple, serious portraits with black, white and brown tones emphasized that the models were devout Puritans, and conveyed Puritan austerity. The mercantile aristocracy were the children of the first-generation gentry and the newly introduced wealthy merchants from the British gentry. They formed the second-generation gentry. Unlike the first-generation gentry, the second-generation gentry thought that their material prosperity proved God’s blessing and reflected it in their portraits positively. While first-generation gentry’s portraits emphasized Puritan’s solemnity and aimed to demonstrate virtue as a leader, the second-generation gentry’s wanted to convey the richness of the mercantile aristocracy. The changes in the portraits prove that Puritan virtues of each generation have been changed. 본 논문은 17세기 뉴잉글랜드에서 종교적․경제적․정치적 변화에 의해 청교도 정체성이 어떻게형성되고 재현되었는가를 초상화를 통해서 고찰하는 연구이다. 또한 국가의 이데올로기, 종교적․사회적 규범이 어떻게 구축되었고 어떻게 미국 사회의 지배규범이 되어 초상화에 재현되었는지를 논의한다. 미국에서 초상화는 식민지 시대부터 19세기 말까지 주요 미술 장르였다. 그 이유는 초상화가기록물로서의 가치를 가지고, 사회적 현실을 반영하는 동시에 국가의 이데올로기를 재현하기 때문이다. 초상화는 독립혁명 전까지 식민지 미국의 미술을 차지했다. 17세기 식민지 초기에는 1세대 젠트리로 불리는 성직자, 정치 지도자, 의사와 같은 전문직 종사자들이 주로 초상화를 남겼는데, 그들은 지도자의 덕목, 청교도 교리, 지배규범 등을 초상화에 나타내고자 했다. 검정색, 흰색, 갈색 톤만을 사용한간결하고 무거운 초상화는 모델이 독실한 청교도임을 강조하며 ‘청교도의 암울(Puritan gloom)’로 불렸던 근검, 절약, 금욕을 보여주었다. 이후 상업귀족으로 불린 2세대 젠트리는 대부분 1세대 젠트리의자녀들과 새롭게 유입된 영국 젠트리 출신의 부유한 상인들로서, 무역으로 부를 축적하여 새로운 젠트리 계층을 형성하기 시작했다. 금욕적인 종교적 교리를 중시했던 1세대와는 달리, 2세대 젠트리는 열심히 일해서 얻은 물질적 번영은 곧 하나님의 축복이라고 생각했고 이를 초상화에 적극적으로 드러내고자했다. 1세대 젠트리의 초상화는 청교도의 엄숙함이라는 이미지를 강조하면서 지도자로서의 덕목을 보여주는 것이 목적이었던 반면, 2세대의 젠트리는 초상화를 통해 상업귀족의 부유함을 보여주기를 원했다. 1세대와 2세대 젠트리의 초상화에 나타난 변화는 각각의 세대가 중요시한 청교도적 덕목이 변화하였음을 보여준다.
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