Recovering the royal cuisine in Chosun Dynasty and its esthetics

정혜경,신다연,정경란,최서연,우나리야 한국식품연구원 2017 Journal of Ethnic Foods Vol.4 No.4

We believe that researching the cuisine consumed by the royal family, in particular the king, during the 500-year long Chosun Dynasty is an interesting and meaningful endeavor. This task is an important part of unraveling the cultural significance of Korean cuisine in the 21st century, a new age of gastronomy. Until now, research has largely focused on recreating Chosun royal cuisine based on oral statements from staff in the last royal kitchen or the Uikwe (儀軌), the Royal Protocols which recorded food consumed at banquets. However, little research has been conducted on ordinary royal cuisine consumed by the king, mainly because of a lack of materials to study. This article aims to shed light on this topic and recreate what every day royal cuisine looked like in the late stages of the Chosun Dynasty by examining joseoksangsikbalgi (朝夕上食撥記, memos of morning and evening ancestral rites table) and judaryebalgi (晝茶禮撥記, memos of daytime tea ceremonies). The memos are similar to the chanpumdanja (饌品單子, literally meaning “a list of dishes served on the table”) that recorded national banquets and therefore do not contain records of ordinary royal cuisine. However, the memos of morning and evening ancestral rites table still remain. These documents describe food offered to the deceased, which was the same as the meals they regularly ate while alive. Accordingly, we attempted to reproduce the traditional table setting for ordinary royal cuisine served to King Kojong (高宗) by analyzing these memos. King Kojong (1852–1919) was the 26th king of the Chosun Dynasty, and a detailed description of the sangsik (上食, ancestral rites table) prepared following his death in January 1919 is present in the morning and evening sangsik memos and daytime tea ceremony memos from October 11, 1919. After analyzing the memos from after King Kojong's death in 1919, we were able to determine that the cuisine consisted of rice as bap (a main staple rice), kuk (a kind of soup), tang (stew), banchan (side dishes) such as meat, jeok (skewers), jeon (Korean pancakes), greens and salted dry fish, kimchi, seasonings such as soy sauce, kochujang (red pepper paste) and mustard as well as fruits and fruit salad for dessert. We determined that in addition to bap (rice), kuk (soup), tang (stew), kimchi and sauces, there were 7–9 banchan (side dishes) that served to create a balanced meal. On examination of the esthetic elements of Chosun royal cuisine, we found that the cuisine followed Confucian customs and formalities, and the kobaeumsik (고배음식, religious food serviced by layer upon layer) that symbolizes the power of the king. In addition to this, royal cuisine also embodied the philosophy of yaksikdongwon (藥食同源), an ideology which focuses on the health function of food. It was also nutritionally balanced and achieved synergy between yin (陰) and yang (陽). We believe that studying the cuisine of the Chosun royal family will ultimately play a role in spreading awareness about Korean royal cuisine around the world and creating materials that can be referred to for further research on royal cuisine and culture. However, we cannot be certain that the records present in the sangsik memos are truly representative of what the king ate on a daily basis, and more detailed analysis is required on this point.

궁중음식 인식성향에 따른 궁중음식 메뉴개발 방향성에 대한 조사

구하연,정서영,정희선,Koo, Ha Yeon,Choung, Seo Yeong,Jeong, Hee Sun 한국식품조리과학회 2016 한국식품조리과학회지 Vol.32 No.3

Purpose: This study assesses Korean royal court cuisine as perceived by culinary professionals and students for the development of Korean dining. Methods: It was observed in a survey that Korean royal cuisine could be grouped into four classes represented by the following factors: popularity, standardization, tradition, and haute-cuisine. Results: From the analysis of the survey results, it was determined that the people surveyed could be grouped into the following three categories: those who prefer standardization/pursuit of haute-cuisine, traditionalists/popularizers, and those who are indifferent. The survey also assessed whether the ten most popular Korean dishes served to foreigners had variations in royal court cuisine and which food ingredients and combinations of dishes would be the most appropriate. It was determined that control over the sweetness when cooking Bulgogi was needed. For food usually consumed for invigoration, especially for the broth of soup dishes in summer, women preferred clear meat broth with soup than men. When preparing Japchae, it was found that control over the ratio between glass noodles and vegetables and control over the sweetness were needed with respect to the main dishes. Conclusion: The indicator 'education on Korean royal court cuisine culture' showed relatively low satisfaction compared to its high importance, implying that further improvement in these development measures is especially required.

「갑오 재동 제물정례책(甲午 齋洞 祭物定例冊)」에 기록된 복온공주의 다례를 통해 살펴본 궁중음식 고찰

이소영,한복려 한국식생활문화학회 2019 韓國食生活文化學會誌 Vol.34 No.5

This study investigates the Gabo Jaedong Jemuljeongnyechaek, which is the recording of the darye executed over aperiod of a year in 1834 (34th year of reign by King Sunjo) in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, two years after the deathof Princess Bokon, the 2nd daughter of King Sunjo. Accordingly, we examined the types of darye (tea ceremonies) and thecharacteristics of the composition of foods at ancestral rites of the royal families of Joseon. Moreover, we also analyzed thecooking methods and characteristics of food terminologies used in the darye. This includes 39 categories of food andingredients used for tea ceremonies held for one year, on behalf of the deceased Princess Bokon in 1834. The darye for themonthly national holiday was held along with the darye on the 1st and the 15th day of every month. The darye for rising upand the birthday darye were held on May 12th and October 26th of the lunar calendar, being the anniversaries of the deathand the birth of Princess Bokon, respectively. The birthday darye and the darye for New Year’s Day, Hansik (105thday afterwinter solstice), Dano (5th day of the 5th month of the lunar calendar), and Thanksgiving “Chuseok” were held in the palaceand at the burial site of the Princess. During the darye for rising up in May and the Thanksgiving darye at the burial site inAugust, rituals offering meals to the deceased were also performed. The birthday darye at the burial site of Princess Bokonfeatured the most extensive range of foods offered, with a total of 33 dishes. Foods ranging 13~25 dishes were offered atthe national holiday darye, while the darye on the 1st and the 15th of the month included 9~11 food preparations, makingthem more simplified with respect to the composition of foods offered at the ceremony, in comparison to the national holidaydarye. The dishes were composed of ddeok, jogwa, silgea, hwachae, foods such as tang, jeok, jjim, hoe, and sikhae, andgrain-based foods such as myeon, mandu, and juk. Foods offered at the burial site darye included 12~13 dishes comprisingban, tang, jochi, namul, chimchae, and jang. Meals offered at the darye had a composition similar to that of the daily royaltable (sura). Darye recorded in the Jemuljeongnyechaek displayed characteristics of the seasonal foods of Korea. Jemuljeongnyechaek has detailed recordings of the materials, quantities, and prices of the materials required forpreparations of the darye. It is quite certain that Jemuljeongnyechaek would have functioned as an essential reference in theprocess of purchasing and preparing the food materials for the darye, that were repeated quite frequently at the time.

「갑오 재동 제물정례책(甲午 齋洞 祭物定例冊)」에 기록된 복온공주의 다례를 통해 살펴본 궁중음식 고찰

이소영,한복려,Lee, So-Young,Han, Bok-Ryo 한국식생활문화학회 2019 韓國食生活文化學會誌 Vol.34 No.5

This study investigates the Gabo Jaedong Jemuljeongnyechaek, which is the recording of the darye executed over a period of a year in 1834 ($34^{th}$ year of reign by King Sunjo) in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, two years after the death of Princess Bokon, the $2^{nd}$ daughter of King Sunjo. Accordingly, we examined the types of darye (tea ceremonies) and the characteristics of the composition of foods at ancestral rites of the royal families of Joseon. Moreover, we also analyzed the cooking methods and characteristics of food terminologies used in the darye. This includes 39 categories of food and ingredients used for tea ceremonies held for one year, on behalf of the deceased Princess Bokon in 1834. The darye for the monthly national holiday was held along with the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ day of every month. The darye for rising up and the birthday darye were held on May $12^{th}$ and October $26^{th}$ of the lunar calendar, being the anniversaries of the death and the birth of Princess Bokon, respectively. The birthday darye and the darye for New Year's Day, Hansik ($105^{th}$ day after winter solstice), Dano ($5^{th}$ day of the $5^{th}$ month of the lunar calendar), and Thanksgiving "Chuseok" were held in the palace and at the burial site of the Princess. During the darye for rising up in May and the Thanksgiving darye at the burial site in August, rituals offering meals to the deceased were also performed. The birthday darye at the burial site of Princess Bokon featured the most extensive range of foods offered, with a total of 33 dishes. Foods ranging 13~25 dishes were offered at the national holiday darye, while the darye on the $1^{st}$ and the $15^{th}$ of the month included 9~11 food preparations, making them more simplified with respect to the composition of foods offered at the ceremony, in comparison to the national holiday darye. The dishes were composed of ddeok, jogwa, silgea, hwachae, foods such as tang, jeok, jjim, hoe, and sikhae, and grain-based foods such as myeon, mandu, and juk. Foods offered at the burial site darye included 12~13 dishes comprising ban, tang, jochi, namul, chimchae, and jang. Meals offered at the darye had a composition similar to that of the daily royal table (sura). Darye recorded in the Jemuljeongnyechaek displayed characteristics of the seasonal foods of Korea. Jemuljeongnyechaek has detailed recordings of the materials, quantities, and prices of the materials required for preparations of the darye. It is quite certain that Jemuljeongnyechaek would have functioned as an essential reference in the process of purchasing and preparing the food materials for the darye, that were repeated quite frequently at the time.

Q방법론에 의한 궁중음식 전문점 조리사 및 운영자의 궁중음식 인식 분석

정서영(Seo-Yeong Choung),정희선(Hee Sun Jeong) 한국조리학회 2017 한국조리학회지 Vol.23 No.7

초계탕의 시대적 변천에 대한 연구

장소영 ( So Young Jang ),한복려 ( Bok Ryo Han ) 한국식생활문화학회 2012 韓國食生活文化學會誌 Vol.27 No.5