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안민희,주보림 한국패션디자인학회 2019 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.2
최근 들어 미닝아웃의 소비문화가 풍요로운 삶에 윤리적 가치의 중요성을 가져오면서 새로운 소비의식이 대두되고 있다. 패션계 역시 현대 윤리와 지속가능성을 바탕으로 하는 윤리적 패션디자인이 강조되고 있는 추세이다. 본 연구는 지속가능한 윤리적 패션디자인의 특징 및 사례를 분석하고 지향 가치별 범주를 제시하 는데 목적을 두었다. 윤리적 패션디자인에 의해 변화를 겪고 있는 패션 분야를 사례 중심으로 관찰하면서 윤리적 패션디자인의 특징을 기업윤리, 디자인 윤리, 소비 윤리 등 세 차원에서 도출하였다. 그리고 현시점에 필요한 패션디자인의 윤리적 지향 가치를 사회 중심적 가치, 환경 중심적 가치, 문화 중심적 가치 등 세 가지 로 범주화하였다. 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 디자인의 심미적 가치 전달에서 사회적 가치 영역의 중요성이 강조되는 패션계의 윤리적 디자인 방향성이 지속가능성과 깊은 관련성이 있음을 확인하였다. 둘째, 윤리적 패션의 기준에 의거하여 기업, 디자인, 소비 등 세 가지 윤리의 사례를 통해 윤리적 패션디자인의 특징을 도출하였다. 셋째, 도출된 윤리적 패션디자인의 특징들 및 지향 가치가 상관성이 있음을 확인하였다. 넷째, 책임감 있는 공급과 소비 양 측면의 조화를 유도하는 범주화가 구축되는 것이 시급하다. 범주화는 지속 가능한 우리의 행보를 점검하고 정하는 일이다. 본 연구는 지난 몇 년간 윤리적 패션디자인에 의해 변화를 겪고 있는 패션 분야를 깊이 있게 이해하고, 윤리적 패션디자인의 지향 가치 범주화를 통해 윤리적 패션디자 인이 나아갈 방향에 대한 기초 자료를 제시한 데 의의가 있다. Recently, a new sense of consumption has emerged as Minning Out’s consumer culture has brought importance of ethical value to a rich life. The fashion industry is also emphasizing ethical fashion design based on modern ethics and sustainability. This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and examples of sustainable ethical fashion design and presenting categories by directional value. By observing the changing fashion sector by ethical fashion design, the characteristics of ethical fashion design were derived from three levels: business ethics, design ethics, and consumer ethics. And the ethic-oriented value of fashion design needed at this time was classified into three categories: social-centered value, environmental-centered value, and cultural-centric value. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the direction of ethical design in the fashion industry, where the importance of social value area is emphasized in the aesthetic value transfer of design, is deeply related to sustainability. Second, based on ethical fashion standards, the three ethical cases of ethics - business, design and consumption - were derived. Third, the characteristics of the ethical fashion design and its orientation value derived were identified as correlated. Fourth, it is urgent to construct the categorization with a view to harmonization in terms of responsible supply and consumption. Categorization is what checks and determines our sustainable course of action. This study has deep understanding on the fashion sector that has been undergoing changes due to ethical fashion design over the past few years, and it is important to understand the ethical fashion design. The research has significance in that it presented basic dta on the direction of ethical fashion design through the categorization of oriented vaalues.
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양진숙(Jin Sook Yang),박효은(Hyo Eun Park) 한국디자인문화학회 2013 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.19 No.2
현대 사회는 산업혁명 이후 고도의 산업발전과 경제적 풍요로움을 얻었지만 지구환경의 훼손과 자원고갈, 폐기물 처리 등의 심각한 문제까지 얻었다. 이에 따라 환경문제가 크게 대두되면서 여러 분야에서 환경을 살리기 위한 적극적인 방안들이 제시되고 있으며, 특히 섬유패션 분야에서도 환경과 자원고갈, 폐기물 처리 등에 대한 문제를 인식하고 그린 섬유패션, 친환경 섬유패션 등 다양한 윤리적 디자인의 필요성이 촉구되고 있다. 윤리적 디자인은 환경과 인간뿐만 아니라 사회전체를 위한 사회적·환경적 책임이며 실천이다. 본 연구는 윤리적 디자인에 대하여 전반적으로 고찰하고 섬유패션에서 나타난 윤리적 디자인 사례를 연구하여 앞으로 섬유패션 분야가 나아가야 할 방향의 기초자료를 제공하는데 목적이 있다. 섬유패션에서 윤리적 디자인은 1960년대 자연과 인간애를 중요시한 히피문화에서 시작되어 개성중심의 펑크 패션을 거쳐 환경 친화적 에콜로지 패션으로 발전되어 지금의 윤리적 디자인으로 나타나고 있다. 섬유패션 사례에서 나타난 윤리적 디자인의 특성은 다음과 같이 나타나고 있음을 알 수 있다. 첫째, 단순히 자원을 재활용 하는 것뿐 아니라 본래의 제품보다더 가치 있게 만드는 업-사이클링 디자인을 통해 섬유패션이 환경을 보호하고 자원을 재활용함으로써 본래의 것보다 더 가치 있게 만들고 있다. 둘째, 친환경 소재를 사용함으로써 인간이 자연과 함께 상생함을 보여주면서 급진적인 산업화와 가시적트렌드를 추구하지 않고 편안함과 친근함 등을 보여주고 있다. 윤리적 디자인은 가치관과 문화, 경제, 사회적 현상이 빠르게 변화하는 환경 속에서도 소비자들에게 자원고갈과 환경문제를 지구촌 전체의 문제로 인식시키는 계기를 가져왔다. 이러한 결과, 소비자들은 업-사이클링과 친환경 소재로 이루어진 윤리적 디자인의 제품을 구매하는 경향이 높아지고 있다. 따라서 섬유패션에서는 향후 윤리적 디자인을 고취시킬 제품을 개발 하는데 주력해야 하며, 이에 대한 인식을 더 높이기 위하여 사회 책임 마케팅. 윤리적 마케팅 연구 또한 필요할 것으로 사료된다. Modern society has obtained high-level industrial development and economic richness since the Industrial Revolution, industrial development led to damage to environment, exhaustion of resources and increased waste. Accordingly, environmental problems came to the fore and ways to revive environment have been presented in almost all fields. Textile fashion field also recognizes problems of environment, exhaustion of resources and waste disposal and the need of ethical design such as green textile fashion and environmentally friendly textile fashion has been demanded. Ethical design is social environmental responsibility and practice for environment, humans and society. The purpose of this study is to provide basic materials for direction that textile fashion field aims to textile fashion field by studying cases of ethical design and giving an overall consideration of ethical design . Ethical design in textile fashion started from hippie culture that regarded nature and philanthropy in 1960`s and evolved into environmentally friendly ecology fashion after going through individuality oriented punk fashion. The characteristics of ethical design that has been shown in the cases of textile fashion are as follows. First is public welfare ethical design that shows textile fashion protects environment and recycles resources through up-cycling which makes resources more valuable beyond simple recycling of resources. Second is environmentally friendly ethical design that aims at coexistence of humans and nature by using environmentally friendly materials. Ethical design gives an opportunity through which consumers recognize ethical design as global issue in a situation in which value, culture, economy and society changes rapidly. As a result, consumers tends to purchase products with ethical design. Therefore, it is necessary to focus on developing products that can enhance ethical design in the field of textile fashion. Research on social responsible marketing and ethical marketing is needed to raise awareness of it.
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유홍식(Yoo Hong-sik) 한복문화학회 2013 韓服文化 Vol.16 No.1
The purpose of this study was to examine fashion products advocating fair trade in terms of ethical fashion, which has lately taken the initiative in the fashion industry. The findings of the study were as follows: First, ethical fashion seeks after fair trade. According to that, it’s required to take a look at the production process from an ethical perspective as well. That was defined as utilizing sound labor force that is provided with fair wage and fair treatment. Second, the key words of ethical fashion that seeks after fair trade were the protection of producer rights, reasonable pricing and contribution to sustainable development. Third, there were ceaseless unfair trade practices characterized by the oppression of world-renowned corporate giants and exploiting poor producers, female laborers and child laborers without paying the reasonable price. A campaign was conducted against such practices, and being affected by the campaign, the fashion industry chose fair trade as one of possible alternatives to iron out this problem. Fourth, since the number of ethical consumers who not only compared price and quality but even were concerned about the ethics of production process is on the rise, fair trade was emerging as one of future-oriented values in the field of fashion. Ethical fashion that pursues fair trade seems not to be a passing fad but a paradigm shift. Fifth, although fair trade has still been conducted on a small scale just for a short period of time in the fashion industry, that should be advocated for a long time as part of ethical fashion in that area. Sixth, consumers still want less expensive products, and that seems to be one of great challenges for the fashion industry that pursues fair trade.
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윤리적 패션으로서 국내 업사이클링 브랜드의 지속가능성에 관한 연구
김미현 한국상품문화디자인학회 2019 상품문화디자인학연구 Vol.56 No.-
This study aims to examine sustainability of up-cycling fashion brands as ethical fashion, and research the possibility of sustainable development of fashion industry. The purposes of this study are First, this study understands theoretical background of domestic up-cycling fashion brands that are attracting public attention as an alternative for sustainable development of fashion industry as ethical fashion by reflecting the trend that interest in the environmental pollution is increasing. Second, this study examines status and characteristics of domestic up-cycling fashion brands for sustainable development as ethical fashion. Third, this study seeks for a solution for sustainable development of domestic up-cycling fashion brands as ethical fashion by selecting 5 domestic up-cycling fashion brands. Sustainability of domestic up-cycling fashion as ethical fashion is First, domestic up-cycling fashion brands seek social values encouraging social responsibility by providing information of up-cycling through offering of education, training or service related to sustainability. They are increasing public values of sustainability, realizing community interest and fulfilling social sustainability that contributes to the development of local communities. Second, economic sustainability is shown as creation of economic profits by securing market competitiveness through offering of job opportunities at domestic up-cycling fashion brands or fair and joint economic activities with cooperative firms. Third, environmental sustainability is shown as suggestion of creative design of up-cycling brands, improved quality, interest in future environment about material and usability for high-functionality, and they emphasize significance of future environment for sustainable fashion industry through environmental campaign and by suggesting use of natural and functional materials. 본 연구는 윤리적 패션으로서 업사이클링 패션 브랜드의 지속가능성을 살펴보고 패션 산업의 지속가능한 발전 가능성을 모 색하고자 하는 것이다. 본 연구의 목적은 첫째, 지속가능한 발전에 대한 관심에 따라 윤리적 패션, 국내 업사이클링 패션 브랜드에 대한 개념과 특성을 이해한다. 둘째, 윤리적 패션으로서 지속가능한 발전을 위한 국내 업사이클링 패션 브랜드의 현황과 사례를 살펴본다. 셋째, 국내 업사이클링 패션 브랜드 5곳을 선정하여 윤리적 패션으로서 국내 업사이클링 패션 브 랜드의 지속가능한 발전 특성을 도출 한다. 윤리적 패션으로서 국내 업사이클링 패션 브랜드의 지속가능성은 첫째, 사회적 지속가능성에서 패션 취업 교육 및 훈련이나 교육서비스 제공을 통해 업사이클링에 관한 정보를 제공하여 사회적 책임을 독려하는 사회적 가치를 추구할 수 있는 것으로 나타났다. 이는 지속가능성이라는 공공의 가치를 높이며 사회적 공동체의 이익 실현하여 지역사회 발전에 기여하는 사회적 지속가능성을 실천하는 것이다. 둘째, 경제적 지속가능성은 국내 업사이 클링 패션 브랜드의 일자리 제공이나 협력 업체와의 공정 및 공동 경제 활동을 통해 시장 경쟁력을 확보하여 경제적 이익 창출로 나타났다. 셋째, 환경적 지속가능성은 업사이클링 브랜드의 창의적인 패션디자인 제안, 개선된 품질, 친환경 및 고 기능성 소재 사용에 대한 미래 환경 관심으로 나타났는데, 이는 환경보호 운동 같은 캠페인과 천연소재 및 기능성 소재를 활용을 제시하여 지속가능한 패션 산업을 위한 미래 환경의 중요성을 강조할 수 있다.
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윤리적 패션 브랜드의 지속가능한 패션 런웨이 연구 - 2017 S/S 서울 컬렉션 ‘지속가능한 패션 그리고 디자인’ 런웨이를 중심으로 -
이경재,김일 한국브랜드디자인학회 2018 브랜드디자인학연구 Vol.16 No.2
국내 처음 시도된 윤리적 패션 브랜드의 지속가능한 패션 런웨이 연구를 통해 윤리적 패션에 대한 소비자의 인식을 넓히고자 새로운 마케팅 방식을 제안하고 지속가능한 패션 런웨이의 가능성을 제시하고자 한다. 해외 지속가능한 패션 런웨이 관련 사례 조사를 통해 런웨이 기획의 구성요소를 구분하고 각 요소를 적용한 진행 과정을 소개하였다. 2017 S/S 서울 패션위크의 ‘지속가능한 패션 그리고 디자인 런웨이’를 중심으로 윤리적 패션 브랜드의 공동 브랜딩 기획의도, 과정, 결과 등을 심도 있게 분석하였다. 사례 분석을 통해 지속가능한 패션 런웨이의 기준을 정립하였고 이를 기반으로 참여 브랜드의 미션을 유형별로 구분하고 공동 브랜딩을 통한 런웨이를 진행하였다. 산업과 문화를 포괄하는 윤리적 패션의 개념을 확산하기 위해 참관객과의 사전 소통과 참여로 공감대를 형성하였다. 윤리적 패션 철학 기반의 브랜드 간 협업과 협력을 통해 지속가능한 패션 런웨이의 가능성을 제시하였다. 본 연구를 통해 윤리적 패션의 디자인 철학과 지속가능한 패션에 대한 기준을 재정립 할 수 있었다. 지속가능한 패션의 확산을 위해 브랜드 철학과 소비자 인식이 확장되어야 한다. 또한 패션산업 발전이 가져올 미래의 긍정적인 변화를 위해 책임 있는 개발과 소비가 동반되어야 할 것이다. This study purports to enhance consumer awareness of ethical fashion and propose positive aspects of fashion runway, with a case study on first-ever sustainable fashion runway of ethical fashion brands in Korea. By examining overseas sustainable fashion runway cases, this study identified components of runway planning and explained each component’s application process. Intent, process and result of co-branding of ethical fashion brands were analyzed based on case studies including ‘Sustainable Fashion and Design Runway’ of 2017 S/S Seoul Fashion Week. Standards of sustainable fashion runway were established by analyzing overseas cases. Missions of each participating brands were categorized and runway was planned through co-branding process. To spread ethical fashion concepts embracing various industries and culture, a consensus was formed among spectators through communication and participation. Future of sustainable fashion runway of ethical fashion and design, including zero-design, fair trade, and eco-friendly design, was suggested. Consumer awareness and brand philosophy need to be strengthened to spread concepts of sustainable fashion. Responsible approach to fashion development and consumption shall also be required to prepare future changes in fashion industry.
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Kim, Hye Eun The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.2
The purpose of this study is to investigate sustainable fashion flows and to outline their characteristics by analysing Esthetica as the largest trade-based sustainable fashion exhibition in the UK. Most of the researchers have focused on its ethical meaning rather than on fashionable criteria or marketable value. This pioneer work could be helpful in order to plan and study sustainable fashion flows. The research method is to identify characteristics of sustainable fashion trends through literature reviews and case studies focused on the UK, Esthetica events and participating brands. The following results were obtained. Upcycling suggests the extension of a product's lifecycle, a trend on the increase. Transparency is the crucial issue in sustainable fashion. Estethica shows that nurturing sustainable brands is one effective way of boosting the sustainable industry, as well as encouraging the production of sustainable products. Sustainable fashion has come to be included in mainstream fashion in terms of aesthetics and commercial competitiveness. Finally, sustainable fashion highlights quality of garments. Thus, Esthetica shows the present of sustainable fashion and its future, that is, sustainable fashion not just as a trend but a lifestyle for both its consumers and the industry. As the sustainable industry is a growing sector, it would be useful to carry out separate in-depth case studies on leading sustainable brands and qualitative aspects.
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김혜은 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.2
The purpose of this study is to investigate sustainable fashion flows and to outline their characteristics by analysing Esthetica as the largest trade-based sustainable fashion exhibition in the UK. Most of the researchers have focused on its ethical meaning rather than on fashionable criteria or marketable value. This pioneer work could be helpful in order to plan and study sustainable fashion flows. The research method is to identify characteristics of sustainable fashion trends through literature reviews and case studies focused on the UK, Esthetica events and participating brands. The following results were obtained. Upcycling suggests the extension of a product’s lifecycle, a trend on the increase. Transparency is the crucial issue in sustainable fashion. Estethica shows that nurturing sustainable brands is one effective way of boosting the sustainable industry, as well as encouraging the production of sustainable products. Sustainable fashion has come to be included in mainstream fashion in terms of aesthetics and commercial competitiveness. Finally, sustainable fashion highlights quality of garments. Thus, Esthetica shows the present of sustainable fashion and its future, that is, sustainable fashion not just as a trend but a lifestyle for both its consumers and the industry. As the sustainable industry is a growing sector, it would be useful to carry out separate in-depth case studies on leading sustainable brands and qualitative aspects.
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( Hye Eun Kim ) 한국의류산업학회 2015 한국의류산업학회지 Vol.17 No.2
The purpose of this study is to investigate sustainable fashion flows and to outline their characteristics by analysing Esthetica as the largest trade-based sustainable fashion exhibition in the UK. Most of the researchers have focused on its ethical meaning rather than on fashionable criteria or marketable value. This pioneer work could be helpful in order to plan and study sustainable fashion flows. The research method is to identify characteristics of sustainable fashion trends through literature reviews and case studies focused on the UK, Esthetica events and participating brands. The following results were obtained. Upcycling suggests the extension of a product’s lifecycle, a trend on the increase. Transparency is the crucial issue in sustainable fashion. Estethica shows that nurturing sustainable brands is one effective way of boosting the sustainable industry, as well as encouraging the production of sustainable products. Sustainable fashion has come to be included in mainstream fashion in terms of aesthetics and commercial competitiveness. Finally, sustainable fashion highlights quality of garments. Thus, Esthetica shows the present of sustainable fashion and its future, that is, sustainable fashion not just as a trend but a lifestyle for both its consumers and the industry. As the sustainable industry is a growing sector, it would be useful to carry out separate in-depth case studies on leading sustainable brands and qualitative aspects.
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김현주 ( Hyun Ju Kim ),나현신 ( Hyun Shin Na ) 한국패션디자인학회 2015 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.15 No.3
While the importance of designers’ responsibility on the society and environment is getting greater, 21st century``s designers adapt the ‘sustainable’ as a major keyword in design. Also, contemporary fashion designers are trying to accomplish the sustainable fashion in the various ways. The purpose of this study is to provide the guideline for developing sustainable fashion design product through case analysis of sustainable design which is shown in modern fashion, and the theoretical review and empirical case study were conducted. Through theoretical review, the background and categories of sustainable design are studied and those of sustainable fashion are classified. Also fashion cases since 2000 are collected and analyzed as examples of success cases which become highly marketable fashion products of sustainability in contemporary fashion design, As the result, sustainable fashion design is categorized into seven different types of fashion.; 1) In the environmentally benign aspect, there are ‘reuse fashion’ upcycling the fashion trash, ‘vintage fashion’ originating from a previous era, ‘organic fashion’ using organic material, and ‘vegan fashion’ using synthetic leather and fake fur. 2) In the economically viable aspect, there are ‘transformable fashion’ showing different look by transforming and reducing materials needed for a manufacturing process. 3) In the socially equitable aspect, there is ‘ethical slogan fashion’ showing ethical slogan about fair trade and environment. Sustainable fashion in each category could be studied separately and the domestic and foreign fashion product could be compared in the future study.
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