이영희의 패션디자인에 대한 도상해석학적 분석

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2011 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.17 No.4

본 연구에서는 이영희 디자이너의 뉴욕 컬렉션을 Panofsky의 조형예술 분석의 틀을 적용해 분석해 봄으로써, 체계적인 패션디자인 분석의 사례를 제공함은 물론, 이영희의 한국적 디자인에 나타난 물리적, 정신적 특성을 살펴보고자 하였다. 이러한 연구 목적을 달성하기 위하여 이영희의 2005 S/S, 2006 F/W, 2007, 2008 F/W 뉴욕 컬렉션 작품을 분석하였다. 작품 분석을 위해서 이영희 디자이너의 홈페이지에 실린 해당 컬렉션사진 60점에 실린 63 착창의 다자인을 패션디자인의 요소인 선과 형, 색채, 재질을 위주로 살펴보았다. Panofsky의 조형예술 분석의 틀을 활용해 현상 의미, 주제 의미(도상학적 접근), 증언 의미(도상해적학적 접근) 분석의 과정을 거친 결과, A-실루엣, 여성한복의 상하 비율, 평면적이고 열린 구성, 소재의 중첩이나 여러 겹 의상의 착장 방식, 한복 속옷의 겉옷화, 노리개나 매듭의 소품화, 한국적 문양, 엷거나 어두운 색채의 주된 사용, 원색이나 밝은 색상을 이용한 바인딩과 안감 처리, 한지, 오간자, 사틴과 같이 비치거나 광택이 나는 소재의 주된 사용, 자수, 패딩, 누빔 기법 등 한복과 관련된 한국적 특성이 확인되었다. 이와 함께, 프린세스 라인, 루싱, 턱, 세트인 슬리브 등의 서구적 특성을 바탕으로 서양 의복의 특성 또한 도출하였다. 한국적 스타일과 서양적인 스타일의 조합은 한국적 디자인의 실용성을 보완하고 서양인들에게 보다 친숙한 모습으로 다가가 한국의 철학과 문화를 알리고자 하는 이영희 디자이너의 의지를 보여주었다. 이렇게 도출한 이영희의 한국적 스타일은 초공간적 열린 미, 정적인 미와 동적인 미, 여백의 미, 상징의미를 표현하였고, 정신적 측면에서는 도교의 우주생성설, 기의 순환, 음과 양의 조화, 신토불이사상, 천인합일사상, 자연과의 소통과 조화, 슬픔과 환희가 공존하는 우리 고유의 정서, 화를 막고 복을 비는 조상들의 염원을 담고 있었다. The purpose of this study was to analyze Lee Young Hee`s Korean style of fashion designs introduced in her New York collections, not only to provide an example of logical fashion design analysis process, but also to examine the physical and philosophical features of her designs. In order to conduct the research, the photographs of Lee Young Hee`s New York collections, including `05 S/S, `06 F/W, `07, `08 F/W fashion shows, uploaded in her homepage were analyzed. A total of 63 ensembles from 60 photographs were used for the research. The analysis was done in the following order: Phenomenal analysis, thematic(iconographical) interpretation, and testimonial (iconological) interpretation. As a result, phenomenal features including A-silhouette, the proportion of women`s Hanbok, 2-dimensional and open structure, overlap of fabrics and clothing items, Hanbok underwear designed as outerwear, Korean traditional accessories including Norigae and braids, Korean traditional motifs, dominance of light and dark colors, bright colors used in bindings and linings, shiny and transparent fabrics, Korean embroidery, padding, and quilting could be found in her Korean style of designs. In addition, Western style also could be located from the features such as princess line, ruching, tucks, and set-in sleeves. The coexistence of Korean and Western styles in Lee Young Hee`s designs represented her will to popularize Korean style of designs by supplementing practicality and reflecting Western taste. Lee Young Hee`s Korean style of designs expressed the aesthetics of hyperspace & openness, stillness & movement, space, and symbols. These aesthetics represented the philosophical beliefs of Koreans related to the following concepts: Cosmogony of Taoism, circulation of spirit, harmony of yin & yang, unity of God and man, communication & harmony with nature, coexistence of sadness & happiness in Korean emotion, and longing for happiness.

비키니 수영복에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국복식학회 2006 服飾 Vol.56 No.7s

추상표현주의를 활용한 패션디자인에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2013 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.19 No.1

본 논문에서는 체계적인 방법을 통해 수집한 추상표현주의 패션디자인 사례의 조형적 특성을 분석하고 그 의미를 미적 가치 측면에서 해석함으로써 창의적 디자인을 위한 참고자료를 마련함은 물론 패션디자이너들의 작품이 담고 있는 철학성을 재고하고자 하였다. 체계적인 자료 수집을 위하여 미국 스타일닷컴(www.style.com), 한국의 삼성디자인넷(www.samsungdesign.net), 해외 신문과 잡지 기사를 통합 검색할 수 있는 고려대학교 도서관의 멀티데이타베이스 검색 시스템을 이용하였다. 각 사이트에서 ‘abstract expressionism’ 또는 ‘추상표현주의’와 대표적인 추상표현주의 작가 22명의 영문명을 키워드로 검색한 결과 2004년에서 2012년 사이에 발표한 컬렉션 중 추상표현주의의 영향을 받은 것은 총 17개로 밝혀졌다. 선별된 17개의 컬렉션을 대상으로 조형적 특성을 분석한 결과는 총 5 부류로 정리할 수 있었다. 추상표현주의의 형이나 색채를 응용한 텍스타일 프린팅과 염색, 추상표현주의 작품에서 추출한 색채의 소재 이용, 색면회화의 수직과 수평 분할선을 내부 구성선이나 니트의 컬러블럭으로 응용한 방법, 추상표현주의 작품의 형태나 느낌을 소재의 질감으로 표현한 방법, 추상표현주의 작가들의 작품 제작 과정이나 재료를 활용한 표면 장식이 있었다. 내적 의미를 해석한 결과로는 네 개의 미적 가치가 추출되었다. 구체적인 미적 가치는 추상표현주의 작가들의 작업 과정을 응용해 탄생한 유일무이한 패션디자인이 갖는 독창성, 추상표현주의 작품이 갖는 전면성과 무방향성을 담은 텍스타일 프린트의 공간 개방성, 색면회화의 대형 규모, 종교적 성향, 힘의 표현 등이 담고 있는 숭고성, 이성에 대한 회의와 기존 유럽미술의 권위에 도전한 추상적 표현이 갖는 자율성으로 나뉘었다. The purpose of this study was to analyze formative characteristics and interpret aesthetic values of systematically collected examples of abstract expressionism-inspired fashion designs, to provide fashion students and designers with references for the creative fashion design and to reconsider the philosophical meanings embedded in fashion. 17 fashion collections introduced between 2004 and 2012 were searched from U.S. Style. com(www.style.com), SamsungDesignNet (www.samsungdesign.net), and Korea University`s multi-database system with key words including ``abstract expressionism`` and 22 names of abstract expressionist artists. As a result, 5 categories of formative characteristics were found: Textile printing and dying inspired by forms or colors of abstract expressionism, selection of fabric colors inspired by abstract expressionism, constructional inner lines and color-blocked knits inspired by vertical and horizontal lines of color-field paintings, fabric textures inspired by forms and feelings of abstract expressionism, and surface decorations inspired by work process and materials of abstract expressionists. The following 4 aesthetic values were interpreted: Originality embedded in fashion designs which applied abstract expressionists` work techniques, openness of textile designs which represent the all-overness and non-directional features of abstract expressionism, solemnity expressed by extreme sizes, religious themes and power, and liberalness of abstract forms which represented the doubts against rationality and the authority of European academic art world.

스포티 패션디자인에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국디자인문화학회 2014 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.20 No.1

본 연구에서는 패션 컬렉션 중에서 운동복의 요소가 가미된 스포티(Sporty) 패션을 분석하여 디자이너들과 학생들의 패션디자인 발상에 참고할 수 있는 체계적 자료를 마련하고자 하였다. 연구 범위는 미국 스타일닷컴(www.style.com) 사이트에 수록된 2010년부터 2014년 사이의 뉴욕, 런던, 파리, 밀라노 패션 컬렉션들로 한정하였다. 매해 발표된 리조트(Resort), 봄, 프리폴(Pre-fall), 가을 컬렉션을 포함시키되 2014년프리폴과 가을 컬렉션은 발표가 마무리되지 않았으므로 모두 제외시켰다. 미국 스타일 닷컴 사이트에서 Sporty Collection과 Athletic Collection을 키워드로 검색하여 스포티 패션과 관련된 컬렉션을 선별한 결과 총 132개의 컬렉션이 선정되었다. 선정된 컬렉션의 비평과 디자인 사진을 중심으로 스포티 패션디자인 요소들을 추출하였다. 분석 결과 스포티 패션디자인에 활용된 요소는 의복과 액세서리를 포함한 품목, 세부장식, 소재로 분류하였다. 의복 품목 중에는 다양한 스타일의 운동용 코트와 재킷, 상의, 바지, 치마와 원피스 드레스, 상하의가 연결된 수트, 브라가 포함되었고, 액세서리 품목으로는 머리쓰개, 신발, 양말, 벨트, 가방이 스포티 패션 디자인의 영감으로 활용되었다. 또, 세부장식으로는 지퍼, 스냅 단추, 고무단, 드로스트링,(Draw-string) 장식선, 컬러블러킹(Color-blocking), 줄무늬(Rugby Stripes), 기능적인 주머니, 라글란 소매, 숫자 모티프, 끈장식(Lacing) 등이 스포티 패션을 연출하기 위해 이용되었다. 소재는 하이테크 소재, 경량 소재, 방수소재, 기능성 소재가 많이 사용되었는데, 특히 해양스포츠에 사용되는 네오프렌(Neoprene)과 저지나 농구복에 사용되는 메시(Mesh)가 자주 활용되었다. 이상의 분석 결과 스포츠웨어의 범위가 액티브웨어적 요소를 포함하면서 확대되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 본 연구가 창의적 스포티 패션디자인 발상을 위한 자료에 보탬이 되리라 사료된다. The purpose of this study was to analyze sporty fashion designs to provide methodical inspiration sources for the fashion designers and the students who study fashion design. The scope of this research was limited to fashion collections held between 2010 and 2014 in New York, London, Paris, and Milan. Resort, spring, pre-fall, and fall collections were included, except 2014 pre-fall and fall collections which were not completed at the time of research. Sporty fashion collections were searched in American style.com site(www.style.com) using the keywords sporty collection and athletic collection. As a result, 132 collections were selected. Fashion collection reviews and design photographs were analyzed to find the sporty fashion design elements. The analyses result could be categorized into garment and accessory items, details, and fabrics. A variety of styles from subcategories including coat and jacket, top, shorts and pants, skirt and dress, one-piece suit, bra, headwear, footwear, sock, belt, and bag served as sporty fashion design inspiration sources. Zippers, snaps, ribs, draw-strings, decorative lines), color-blocking, rugby stripes, functional pockets, ragland sleeves, number motifs, lacing were utilized as sporty fashion details. Fabrics such as hightech, lightweight, water-proof, and functional materials were often mentioned in fashion collection reviews. Especially, neoprene and mesh were popular. Overall, the boundary of sportswear has expanded to comprise activewear elements. I believe the result of this research will serve as useful inspiration sources for the creative sporty fashion design idea development.

패션실무영어 교과 내용 설계 및 개발을 위한 분석

이예영 ( Yhe Young Lee ) 한국패션디자인학회 2008 한국패션디자인학회지 Vol.8 No.2

In the modern globalized economy, textiles and apparel products are developed, produced and distributed in a global economic setting. For countries such as Korea with a non-English native language, it is important to prepare students with the ability to interact competently in English in the fashion business field. Therefore, it is inevitable to offer a fashion business English course in universities. An ADDIE model, which is a basis to instructional systems development, consists of five steps: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. In this study, analyses was conducted to suggest directions for the curriculum design and development of the fashion business English course. A survey was distributed to 61 professionals who have worked in the fashion industry for 4 month to 16 years. Most of the respondents thought that it was necessary to offer business English course for students in apparel-related fields. The respondents answered that English skills were needed when working as a merchandiser or buyer at a company involved in foreign trade, collecting information, having meetings with foreign buyers or consultants, and taking business trips. Most of the respondents thought that learning professional vocabularies, from basic words such as warp, weft, lengthwise grain and hem to specialized names of seams, pockets, fasteners, stitches, details, etc., that are essential in the fashion field, were common, important or very important. Similar results were shown about writing e-mails, letters, faxes, and resumes, reading articles on fashion trends, mass customization, ready-to-wear, trade, and speaking general business English. The respondents answered that reading articles or books on market trends, social issues, trade documents, fashion history would be helpful. It was also recommended to practice giving presentations and job interviewing in English, and to learn professional vocabularies related to financial affairs and trade. Based on these analyses results, specific learning objects and instructional material can be designed and developed.

여성용 니커버커스에 관한 연구

이예영(Yhe Young Lee) 한국복식학회 2006 服飾 Vol.56 No.5

환자복 디자인 개발에 관한 사례 연구 - 고려대학교 의료원의 일반 환자복과 산부인과용 가운을 중심으로 -

이예영 ( Yhe Young Lee ),이윤정 ( Yoon Jung Lee ),성화경 ( Hwa Kyung Seong ) 대한가정학회 2006 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.44 No.12

PBL과 메이커 교육을 적용한 가정과 예비교사를 위한 의류학 실습 수업 개발

이예영 ( Yhe-young Lee ) 복식문화학회 2021 服飾文化硏究 Vol.29 No.1

The aim of this research is to develop a clothing and textiles studio course for preservice home economics teachers applying principles of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and maker education to equip future teachers with the ability to nurture creativity among adolescents. The studio course was developed in the following stages: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. We concluded that the resulting course met the following objectives extracted from the 2015 revised curriculum of home economics subjects: to promote creative and environmentally-friendly fashion design and styling abilities, gain the ability to use makerspace tools, understand flat pattern making and sewing processes, and develop creative thinking, aesthetic sense, and communication skills. Furthermore, the educational effects of PBL and maker education were confirmed through student comments on the course. Students mentioned the practicality of the material in their actual lives along with their enhanced integration of the subject material, self-directedness, aesthetic sense, ability to learn through trial and error, collaboration and communication, and sharing. Based on results from the implementation and evaluation stages, a clothing and textiles studio course should include the following modules: introduction of terms and tools, submission and sharing of clothing reformation and upcycling techniques, introduction to hand sewing, pouch making, heat-transfer printing, 3D printing, mask making, hat making, vest making, and the final team project on fashion styling. It is important for instructors to provide detailed guidelines on selecting personas for styling, looking for available materials, and selecting materials online.

플래퍼 룩의 사회 문화적 의미 고찰 - The New York Times 기사를 중심으로 -

이예영 ( Yhe Young Lee ) 복식문화학회 2018 服飾文化硏究 Vol.26 No.1

The purpose of this study is to examine the sociocultural meanings of flapper look in American society during the 1920s. Using the ProQuest database, I searched articles from The New York Times published between 1920 and 1929 for opinions and discussions on the flapper look. Keywords included “clothing,” “dress,” “fashion,” and “flapper,” and advertisements and articles on menswear, leisurewear, and bathing suits were excluded. In the resulting articles, I extracted the following sociocultural meanings: autonomy, activeness, practicality, attractiveness, and extravagance. Meanings were analyzed from the opinions and discussions focusing on skirt length, dresses that directly and indirectly exposed the body, heavy make-up, non-constricting underwear, the H-line dress, bobbed hair, hygiene, comfort, and consumption. In sum, the 1920s flapper look represented progressive characteristics such as autonomous and active womanhood and practicality, which matched the technological development of the time. However, the flapper look was commercialized and exploited to make women look attractive and extravagant. Even though American women had access to higher education, more economic power, and suffrage in the 1920s, they were limited in their ability to overcome social conventions and the power of consumerism. Understanding the double-sidedness of flapper look within the social context of the time would enhance the comprehension of the relationship between women’s lifestyles and changing fashion.

예술로서의 패션 -Morris Weitz의 "예술에 대한 열린 개념"을 중심으로-

이예영 ( Yhe Young Lee ) 대한가정학회 2007 Human Ecology Research(HER) Vol.45 No.1