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      • KCI등재

        황백의 품종 및 산지에 따른 면, 견, 양모직물에 대한 염색성 비교

        이룡춘 ( Long Chun Li ),안춘순 ( Cheun Soon Ahn ) 한국의류학회 2014 한국의류학회지 Vol.38 No.1

        This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60min at 80oC. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at 55oC using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

      • KCI등재

        사판 수입 생쪽 분말 염료의 면직물에 대한 염색성 및 염색견뢰도 연구

        양월 ( Yue Yang ),안춘순 ( Cheun Soon Ahn ),박진성 ( Jin Sung Park ),이룡춘 ( Long Chun Li ) 복식문화학회 2012 服飾文化硏究 Vol.20 No.4

        The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures (2 -80t) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must he used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by 20t dyeing with the 40t dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures (2-8Ot). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first S hours of sunlight exposure, The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.

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