The Effect of Multi-Lamellar Emulsion (MLE) on Skin Barrier Function: Can an Improve Permeability Barrier Provide a Solution for Itching due to Skin Barrier Malfunction?

염종경 ( Jong Kyung Youm ),김양희 ( Yang Hee Kim ),박병덕 ( Byeong Deog Park ),정세규 ( Se Koo Jeong ),최응호 ( Eung Ho Choi ),안성구 ( Sung Ku Ahn ),이승헌 ( Seung Hun Lee ) 한국피부장벽학회 2003 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.5 No.1

각질형성세포에서 LPS로 유도된 염증반응에 대한 마가목, 쐐기풀, 죽여 및 오배자 혼합추출물의 항염 효과

이경은 ( Kyung-eun Lee ),남진주 ( Jin-ju Nam ),김선미 ( Seon-mi Kim ),김한곤 ( Han-kon Kim ),문성준 ( Seong-joon Moon ),염종경 ( Jong-kyung Youm ) 대한화장품학회 2014 대한화장품학회지 Vol.40 No.1

각질형성세포주인 HaCaT세포에서 Lipopolysaccharide (LPS)로 유도하는 염증반응에는 tumor neurosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1α (IL-1α), interleukin-6 (IL-6), 및 interleukin-8 (IL-8)와 같은 염증 유발 사이토카인(pro-inflammatory cytokines)이 증가되고, 또한 염증반응을 매개하는 inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) 및 prostaglandins E2 (PGE2)도 증가된다. 본 연구에서는 이렇게 유도된 염증 반응에서 효과적으로 염증 관련인자를 조절할 수 있는 천연물을 발굴하고자 하였다. 그 결과, 마가목, 쐐기풀, 죽여 및 오배자 혼합 추출물이 IL-1α, TNF-α, IL-6 및 IL-8의 발현을 억제하고 COX-2, iNOS 및 PGE2의 발현도 억제함을 확인하였다. 아울러 IQ chamber^Ⓡ을 이용하여 피부에 첩포할 때 sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)로 유발한 피부자극에서 이들 혼합물이 효과적으로 그 자극을 억제함을 확인하였다. 따라서 본 연구 결과로부터 마가목, 쐐기풀, 죽여 및 오배자의 혼합물이 피부자극완화용 화장품 소재로서 민감성 피부 등을 위한 제품에 유용하게 사용될 수 있음을 확인하였다. Lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced inflammatory responses in the HaCaT keratinocyte cell line produce proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1α(IL-1α), tumor neurosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin- 8 (IL-8) and also increase the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandins E2 (PGE2). In this study, we developed new natural ingredients for cosmetics that inhibit the pro-inflammatory responses induced by LPS in HaCaT cells. The mixture of Sorbus commixta (SC), Urtica dioica (UD), Phyllostachys nigra (PN), and Rhus semialata gall (RS) extracts blocked the increase of TNF-α IL-1α IL-6, and IL-8. The increase of COX-2, iNOS, and PGE2 were also blocked by it. Finally, the mixture inhibited skin irritation induced by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), when applied on skin through IQ chamber^Ⓡ. In conclusion, these results show that the mixture of SC, UD, PN, and RS can be used as a primary ingredient to alleviate skin irritation when cosmeceutical products are developed for sensitive skin.

Linoleic Acid가 포함된 Multi-Lamellar Emulsion의 국소 도포가 실험적으로 유도된 면포 생성에 미치는 영향

이상은 ( Sang Eun Lee ),염종경 ( Jong Kyung Youm ),이승헌 ( Seung Hun Lee ),정세규 ( Se Kyoo Jeong ) 대한피부과학회 2007 대한피부과학회지 Vol.45 No.3

Background: Disturbed keratinization of the follicular infundibulum is the earliest change in comedo formation. The relative decrease in linoleic acid in the sebum could be responsible, in part, for this abnormal keratinization. Objective: This study was conducted to evaluate the effects of topically applied multi-lamellar emulsion containing linoleic acid (MLE/LA) on experimentally induced comedones. Methods: To induce comedo formation, 50% oleic acid (OL) in macrogol 400 was applied to the ventral surface of both ears of New Zealand white rabbits. Twenty ears of ten rabbits were randomly divided into four treatment groups (5 ears in each group). Four groups (OL only, OL and MLE/LA, OL and MLE, OL and control vehicle containing LA) were treated twice daily for 2 weeks. The relative increase in areas of the comedo was evaluated by digital image analysis. The morphologic changes around the epithelial lining of the comedo were observed by light microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. Results: After 2 weeks of application, only the OL and MLE/LA combined treated group showed significantly less (by 1.23-fold, p<0.05) increase in comedo size when compared to the OL treated group (by 1.86-fold). Upon light microscopy and scanning electron microscopy examination, the MLE/LA treated ears showed a lesser degree of epidermal hyperplasia and hyperkeratosis in the follicular infundibulum compared with the OL treated ears. Conclusion: Topical MLE/LA might have an inhibitory effect on the formation of OL induced comedones. (Korea J Dermatol 2007;45(3):249~254)

The Clinical Efficacy of Multi-Lamellar Emulsion(MLE) contained Pseudo-ceramide(PC-9S) on Atopic Dermatitis

박병덕 ( Byeong Deog Park ),염종경 ( Jong Kyung Youm ),이승헌 ( Seung Hun Lee ) 한국피부장벽학회 2001 한국피부장벽학회지 Vol.3 No.1

생체활성 각질층 지질 - 아토피 피부염 관리를 중심으로 -

박병덕 ( Byeong Deog Park ),염종경 ( Jong Kyung Youm ),안성구 ( Sung Ku Ahn ),이승헌 ( Seung Hun Lee ) 대한화장품학회 2004 대한화장품학회지 Vol.30 No.3

아토피 피부염을 설명하는 데는 두 가지 패러다임이 있는데, 첫 번째는 outside-inside paradigm이고 두 번째는 inside-ouside paradigm이다. Outside-inside paradigm에 의하면 아토피 피부염을 치료하기 위한 가장 좋은 방법은 피부 장벽 기능을 회복시키는 것이다. 장벽 기능은 각질층의 특징적인 구조에 의해 유지되는데, 각질층은 층상구조의 inter-cellular lipids와 corneocyte로 구성되어 있다. 아토피 피부염 환자, 층판상 어린선 환자의 각질층 내 층상구조는 hexagonal 구조가 많이 존재하고 있음을 보였으며, 이는 Ceramide 1 타입과 long chain fatty acid의 감소 때문이라고 보여진다. 이러한 이유에서 라멜라구조를 가지며 intercellular long periodicity phase 기능을 복원할 수 있는 보습제는 각질층의 intercellular lipid의 층상구조를 복원시킬 수 있을 것이다. 또한 세라마이드와 유사세라마이드를 함유한 보습제는 손상된 피부장벽, 피부질환, 아토피 피부염을 위한 유용한 치료제로 사용할 수 있다. Inside-outside paradigm에 따르면, 아토피 피부염 등이 보조 T cell, Ig E, eosinophil 등을 포함한 면역반응과 관계되는데, 특히 Th1/Th2 imbalance의 복원이 아토피 피부염을 치료하는데 효과적일 것이다. 현재 여러 종류의 면역억제제가 소개되고 있지만, 이들은 고유 면역기능을 감소시킬 우려를 가지고 있다. 따라서, 세라마이드 대사산물인 SPC와 S1P는 면역조절 기능 및 상처치유의 기능을 가짐으로써 향후 관심이 집중될 것이다. There are two paradigms to explain the atopic dermatitis. The first is outside-inside paradigm and the second is inside-outside paradigm. According to the outside-inside paradigm the best way to treat the atopic dermatitis is recovery of skin barrier function. The barrier function is maintained by the specific structure of stratum corneum, which is constructed from corneocytes and intercellular lipids. In terms of lipid structures of SC in atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis, they contain more fluid hexagonal gel structures in SC and show deficiencies in free fatty acids, especially long chains and certain ceramides. With this reason, moisturizer which has the lamellar structure and restoring function of intrinsic intercellualr long periodicity phase can maintain and restore the lamellar structure of intercellular lipids in SC. The moisturizers containing ceramide or pseudoceramide also seem to be reasonable therapy for atopic dermatitis and several skin diseases, which interrelated with impaired skin harrier. By the way, according to the inside-outside paradigm, immune response including helper T cells, IgE, eosinophils is related. It is effective treatment of atopic dermititis to restore imbalance between Th1 and Th2 cells. Even though several kinds of immune-suppressor were introduced, these can affect the intrinsic immune function. SPC and S1P, metabolites of ceramide, would be interesting because they have the function of wound healing and immune modulating properties.

능실 추출물 및 그 분획물의 피부 광노화 억제 효능

남진주 ( Jin-ju Nam ),이경은 ( Kyung-eun Lee ),박지은 ( Ji-eun Park ),문성준 ( Seong-joon Moon ),염종경 ( Jong-kyung Youm ) 대한화장품학회 2014 대한화장품학회지 Vol.40 No.4

자외선은 피부의 구조적, 생리학적 변화를 일으키는 대표적인 외부 환경 인자로서 광노화, 일광화상 및 피부암을 일으키는 원인이 된다. 이러한 자외선은 외부적인 스트레스 자극 인자로 작용하여 피부 세포 내에서 비활성 코르티손을 활성 코르티솔로 전환시키는 효소인 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β -HSD1)의 발현 및 활성을 증가시킨다. 이에 본 연구에서는 UVB에 의해 증가된 11β-HSD1의 발현을 효과적으로 억제할 수 있는 천연 추출물을 발굴하고자 하였다. 사람 섬유아세포에 다양한 천연물을 스크리닝한 결과, 능실 추출물이 유의한 효과가 있음을 확인하고, 능실 추출물을 추가 분획하여 사람 섬유아세포와 3D skin model에서 피부 광노화 억제 소재로서의 가능성을 확인하였다. 능실 추출물 및 분획물은 섬유아세포에서 11β-HSD1의 발현을 억제함과 동시에 자외선에 의한 matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, 3, 9 및 염증성 싸이토카인(IL-6, 8)의 발현 증가를 억제하였다. 또한, 3D skin model을 이용한 평가에서, 능실 추출물은 UVB에 의한 MMP-1 단백질 발현을 억제하였고, UVB에 의한 표피 두께 감소 및 각질형성세포의 증식 감소를 회복시켰다. 따라서, 본 연구 결과로부터 능실 추출물 및 분획물은 UVB에 의한 11β-HSD1의 발현 증가와 이에 수반하는 광노화를 효과적으로 예방함을 확인하였다. Ultraviolet B (UVB) is a primary environmental factor that induces adverse effects on skin such as photoaging, skin burn and cancer. UVB also increases the expression of 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1), which converts inactive cortisone to active cortisol in response to a variety of stressors in target tissues. Thus, we have screened new herbal extracts that suppress 11β-HSD1 expression induced by UVB in human dermal fibroblasts. We also investigated whether Trapa japonica (TJ) extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells and 3D skin model. Results showed that TJ extract inhibited the increase of 11β-HSD1 expression in UVB-exposed Hs68 cells significantly. TJ extract and its fractions not only inhibited 11β-HSD1 expression, but also suppressed the increase of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, 3, 9) and proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, 8) in UVB-irritated Hs68 cells. TJ extract also inhibited MMP-1 expression in UVB-irritated 3D skin model. In addition, TJ extract recovered UVB-induced decreases of epidermal thickness and PCNA-positive cells in 3D skin model. Taken together, these results suggest that TJ extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced skin photoaging by interfering with 11β-HSD1 and MMPs.

얼굴 홍반 환자에서 Peroxisome Proliferator Activated Receptor α (PPARα) 활성화제의 효과

김예슬 ( Ye Seul Kim ),정유리 ( You Lee Jung ),염종경 ( Jong Kyung Youm ),박준홍 ( Joon Hong Park ),배유인 ( You In Bae ),박영립 ( Young Lip Park ),이상훈 ( Sang Hoon Lee ) 대한피부과학회 2014 대한피부과학회지 Vol.52 No.9

Background: Long-term use of topical steroids for inflammatory skin diseases can induce complications, and efforts to find a better treatment are being continued. Peroxisome proliferator activated receptor α (PPARα) suppresses the skin``s inflammatory reaction, maintains the homeostasis of the skin, and plays an important role in skin barrier function. Objective: This study analyzed the effects of a skin moisturizer containing PPARα activator on various inflammatory skin diseases causing facial erythema and evaluated the observed improvements. Methods: The PPARa activator used for this study is composed of supercritical extracts from Euryale ferox, Euphorbia lathyris, and Rosa multiflora, which showed significant effects in the transactivation assay compared to Wy14643. Moisturizer containing PPARα was applied to the faces of 31 patients with symmetric facial erythema, with PPARα applied on one-half of the face and a control moisturizer on the other half of the face twice a day for 2 weeks. The percentage of erythema index, erythema index, skin hydration, and transepidermal water loss was checked to evaluate treatment effect. Both patients and clinicians each assessed the improvement of erythema on both sides of a patient``s face. Results: Moisturizer containing PPARα agonist significantly improved erythema index measured with Mexameter MX18(r) and percentage of erythema index by polarization color imaging system (DermaVision-PRO(r)) (p<0.05). However, there was no significant improvement in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss. Improvement of erythema was also shown on both the patient and clinician graded assessments. Conclusion: Topical PPARα agonist applied during clinical practice was relatively safe and effective. This can beapplied clinically to various inflammatory skin diseases causing erythema. (Korean J Dermatol 2014;52(9):608∼ 614)