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여성 모자 패턴제작을 위한 측정방법과 디자인 개발 연구
김차현(Cha Hyun Kim),안영실(Young Sill Ahn) 한국디자인문화학회 2010 한국디자인문화학회지 Vol.16 No.2
본 연구는 성장하고 있는 모자산업에 발맞추어 한국 성인여성의 착용감이 좋은 모자패턴 및 디자인을 개발하기 위함에 목적에 있다. 모자 기본원형 제작의 기초가 되는 머리둘레는 모자 형태나 쓰는 방법의 변화에 따라 차이를 두어야한다는 점을 고려하여 분류된 각 대표 모자의 기본원형을 3D 스캔 데이터에 근거하여 제시하였으며, 이를 활용하여 디자인한 모자 4가지를 제작하였다. 이에 대한 연구 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 선행연구 및 문헌에서 정의한 각 머리둘레는 모자 쓰는 위치와 디자인에 따라 모자둘레와 차별을 두어 사용하여야 하며, 두상의 앞면에서는 이마시작점, 이마중간점, 눈살점이, 옆면에서는 귀바퀴위점, 뒷면에서는 뒤통수돌출점, 뒤통수점이 모자 패턴제작을 위한 주요한 계측점으로 지정될 필요가 있다. 둘째, 기존의 1차적인 머리 두께 및 너비길이에 근거한 머리둘레의 Master Oval Pattern 제작에 비하여 3D 스캔 데이터를 활용한 제작방법이 보다 더 쉽고 정확하게 구할 수 있었으므로 앞으로 대량생산 모자의 패턴제작에 있어서는 3D 계측방법의 적용이 활발히 이루어져야 할 것이다. 셋째, 제작된 모자 디자인에 따라 정확한 머리둘레 위치 및 형상을 고려하였기 때문에 착용감이 좋은 결과를 가져올 수 있었다. 넷째, 모자 형태의 분류에 따라 반구형, 원기둥형, 원반형, 무 크라운 모자의 기본원형을 제시하여 다양한 디자인 전개에 활용할 수 있었다. The purpose of this paper is to provide the growing millinery industry of Korea with basic patterns and design for Korean women`s hats. We begin with the idea that measurement and shape of head circumference is dependent upon hat design and ways of wearing hats. Accordingly, we categorize hats according to their forms and shapes. Then we present basic patterns for selected hats from each category based on 3D scan data of head block models. We also made four sample hats using the basic patterns we developed. Main results are: First, principal measurement points should include glabella, the mid point of forehead, and crinion in the frontal head, occiput and inion at the back of the head, euryon on the side. Second, 3D scan data provides easier and more exact measurement and shape than the head circumference based on the uni-dimensional measurements of head length and head width for making the master oval pattern. We suggest that measurements based on the 3D scan data should be used widely for pattern-making, especially in mass production of hats. Third, the richer and more flexible set of measurements based on the 3D scan data resulted in a better fit of hats with different designs. Forth, our four basic hat patterns(domed, cylinder, discus, and non-crown) served well for the development of various hat plans and designs.
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실루엣터에 의한 男子高等學生의 體型分析 : 바지패턴을 중심으로
姜順熙,安英實 漢陽大學校 韓國生活科學硏究所 1989 韓國 生活 科學 硏究 Vol.- No.7
The purpose of this study was to provide the highly adaptable materials for the production of slacks pattern of high school boys. Somatotype analysed and classified by the measure and form of the lower half of body. 205 boys of high school in Seoul between the age of 15 and 18 were examined by the Silhouetter Photography, the indirect measurement of their somatotype. 64 items-41 in measurement,6 in calculated values and 17 in physical index were studied in this research and the method of Mean, Standard variation, Pearson's correlation coefficients, factor analysis, and One - way analysis of variation were uesd for statistical analysis. The results of this study are as follows ; 1.It was founded in 4items only that the lower half of body of high school boys increased with age. But there was no significant difference in other items. As a result somatotype were more adequately examined by the posture and characteristic of body rather than by age for the highly adaptable production of slacks patterns. 2.In the proportion of the lower half of body the waist line was lower and more distinguishable and crotch depth was shorter by age. 3.Waist girth, hip girth, stature, finished length-pants, crotch depth and hip length, glutea angle, abdominis media angle, hip side slope wich were sampled as major parts of the lower half of body by the factor analysis. Especially, the angle item was considered as an standard item in slacks patterns seperately. 4.According to the classification of posture and characteristic of the lower half of body, The Forward Somatotype was the most in percentage and was followed by the standard Somatotype, the next was the Turning over Somatotype and the Forward -Turning over Somatotype as the least. The Standard Somatotype was employeed as the basis of comparison each characteristics of Somatotype, the following results were found. 1) Compared to the Standard Somatotype, a rear hip part in the Forward Somatotype was more protruded and a lower abdomen was more flat. 2) Compared to the Standard, a rear hip part in the Turning over Somatotype was more flat and a lower abdomen was more protruded and its measurement was the least of 4 Somatotypes. 3) Compared to the Standard Somatotype, both lower abdomen and rear hip part in the Forward-Turning over Somatotype were more protruded and its measurement was the most of 4 Somatotypes. 5. The modification of slacks patterns by each characteristic of somatotype was as follows ; 1) Compared to the Standard Somatotype, the front center line of front in the Forward Somatotype should be moved 2.3˚ outward and the back center line of back also moved 1.8˚ to the slacks center line and crotch depth be 1cm longer. 2) Compared to the Standard Somatotype, the front center line of front in the Turning over Somatotype should be moved 5˚ to the slacks center line and the back center line of back be 0.7˚ outward. 3) Compared to the Standard Somatotype, the front center line and the back center line should be moved 3.6˚ and 2.3˚ respectively to the stacks center line, and the side line of both front and back be also let out 3.6˚ and 2.3˚ crotch depth, finished length-pants, hip part and thigh part of the lower crotch should be let out.
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