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기본 자카드 조직의 게이지 변화에 따른 특성에 관한 연구
기희숙 한국의상디자인학회 2017 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.19 No.4
The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.
무봉제 니트웨어의 네크디자인 향상을 위한 연구 - V-네크 풀오버의 네크단 편성방법을 중심으로 -
기희숙 한국의상디자인학회 2019 한국의상디자인학회지 Vol.21 No.4
This study aims to seek knitting methods that can enhance the neck design of seamless knitwear and to find out how to improve the designs by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of the knitting methods used for v-neck pullovers. The investigator analyzed the characteristics of the knitting methods and assessed the wearing sensation by using six different pieces of clothing for the experiment. The results were analyzed based on a variance analysis (ANOVA). Among the items showing significant results, the Duncan-test was used for more intensive research. As a result, while using the basic pattern of knitting methods, Experiment Clothes A ended up binding on the back neckline, and not making the hem of back. Also, the neck was the widest. In the case of the special neck, Experimental Clothes B (1:1), which had the least number of the knitting course in relation to the knitting ratio, the bottom part of the back body had the most wrinkles. According to the result of wearing sensation, the front part, the side part, and the back part showed similar results (p<0.000) in all items. Specifically, the appearance of the Experiment Clothes A (normal) in both the front and rear aspects were evaluated as the best. In the case of the special neck, the Experimental Clothes F was ranked the highest, whereas the Experimental Clothes B (1:1) was ranked the lowest. Based on the results of the study, it seems possible to provide concrete and technical data for the planning of unique and productive designs. With regard to seamless knitwear neck designs, a comparative analysis of the knitting method of v-neck pullovers will be of practical use in the development and manufacturing of the product.
기희숙,서미아 服飾文化學會 1994 服飾文化硏究 Vol.2 No.1
The aim of this research analyze women's preference in types and formation of skirt lines by their ages and body shapes. The aim of this study is for women to select clothing which can cover their shortcomings and to present the pratical and positive data about skirt disign to clothing maker. The results of this research are summarized as followed: Tight skirt is the best preferred and flare is the next. Narred silhouettes are preferred about the width of each kind of skirt, but as for the gored and flare skirts middle-width silhouettes are preferred. Preferred lengths of the skirts are different from ages; the twenties like miniline, the thirties and the forties natural line, and the fifties midiline, and according to body shapes, the skinny or standard shape like natural line and the fat midiline. All age prefer natual waist line, and twenties and the skinny like high waist line and belt compared to fifties and the fat. All ages like dart-treated skirt waist and wrinkle-decoration with narrow vertical lines or tuck-decoration narrow horizontal line. White and blue are preferred colors of skirts in spring and summer, the skinny and the standard like blue, whereas the fat like black. All ages like soft materials and one-colored skirts without patterns. Adult women like jipper to open waist of a skirt. Most of them like back positioned one, but fifties and the fat prefer side positioned ones.